A3 Rear Heated Window and Rear Windown wiper problem

brettsh555

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Hello

I have a 2004 (54 plate) 3-door A3 and have recently started to experience the rear window wiper freezing for a split second when in operation (and not always in the same position). I've checked the wiper blade and can't see anything that coould be causing an obstruction.

Also, the heated rear window has stopped working and power to the heating elements (attached to the glass) is no longer present. The fuse is fine, but I'm not sure whether this could be a relay issue or something else?

If anyone has any pointers on both of the above, it would be much appreciated.

Cheers
 
I'd suggest removing the motor from inside the tailgate & strip/clean as it will only get worse. It sounds like spindle is seizing.

Does the light come on when you press the heated window button?
 
I would check the wiring loom from Body to Tailgate aswell, it's at the top near the hinges. It's not uncommon for the wires to break due to repeated opening and closing of the tailgate. Also a scan with VCDS aswell just to see if there are any faults stored.
 
Mine did this the other day, has gone back to normal now. Was on a really cold day so I suspect it was seizing up.
 
Thanks for all replies and sorry for the delay. I will take a look at the loom and motor.

Khufu - The light does come on when I press the heated rear window button.

Thanks
 
Hi Khufu

If the heated rear window light comes on, does this mean that the switch and relay is ok? Also, do you have any pictures or instructions on how to remove the interior plastic tailgate cover in order to access the motor? I have attempted to access the rear washer jet pipe before and found the cover extremely hard to remove it (felt as if something would snap, which made me wonder whether I needed to remove some hidden screws?)

Thanks again
 
Hi Lewis583

Is it easy to remove the plastic hinge covers to access the loom? I've looked at these, but wasn't sure where to start. Also, if the wires have broken in the loom, can I simply buy a replacement connecting loom and is this a big job to replace it? Also, over the last couple of days I've noticed the rear wiper comes on randomly, by itself. I'm not sure if this is symptom of a faulty loom as well?

Cheers
 
Hi Khufu

If the heated rear window light comes on, does this mean that the switch and relay is ok? Also, do you have any pictures or instructions on how to remove the interior plastic tailgate cover in order to access the motor? I have attempted to access the rear washer jet pipe before and found the cover extremely hard to remove it (felt as if something would snap, which made me wonder whether I needed to remove some hidden screws?)

Thanks again

Loads of answers on here if you do a search !!

Here's one of them :-

The only access to the pipe is by removing the rear door card. Easy to do but a bit nerve-wracking first time !

Remove the two screws on the inside of the boot and the two cover pieces that cover the light clusters (sportback) then you have to firmly ( and I mean very firmly ) yank downwards from near the rear screen on each side.

It will come loose and then you have to go all round releasing the clips by pulling. Re-fitting is a reversal of the procedure making sure that the plastic clips are aligned correctly before giving each one a good belt with your fist !
 
I reckon if the light comes on (and you can hear the click from the relay under steering column then that side of things are ok & the break is most likely in or around the tailgate.

As Mike says 100%, two screws for the built in handle & then pull hard! It will make horrible cracking noises but thats normal. Once the trim is off, you may see a wires come away from the rear window.
 
Hello

I removed the plastic boot hinge covers and rubber tube covering the wiring loom (I managed to break both plastic hinge covers in the process which are pretty brittle, so a word of warning for anyone else trying this). I've ordered replacements from my local Audi dealership at £4 a piece, so no biggy.

I looked at the wiring loom but couldn't see any broken wires and found there wasn't much play in the loom, so difficult to check. Is it the case that you have to cut open the plastic wire coating and check for breaks this way?

Also, I ordered a new washer jet at the same time. Does anyone know if a special tool is needed to remove the nut that holds the washer jet in place? It also looks as though this nut needs to be removed to allow the wiper motor to be released. I've tried my adjustable spanner, but didn't have any joy.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

Cheers
 
doesnt the washer jet just pull off im sure it does the nut under it is a 13mm i used a socket spanner just didnt get in there good enough so was a risk of slipping off
 
doesnt the washer jet just pull off im sure it does the nut under it is a 13mm i used a socket spanner just didnt get in there good enough so was a risk of slipping off

Correct - the actual jet just pulls off the water feed pipe. You do not need to release the nut to replace it.
 
Hi all,
When removing and refitting the boot trim, rember that its easy to pull the radio and / or rear screen heater wires off the glass.
If this does happen, you will need some electricly conductive glue (look on ebay) to glue the wires back to glass and make the electrical conection.

Sux when this happens, but its easily repairable.
 
Hello

Thanks for the advice. I didn't find any wires that had come away from the window and couldn't see any wires broken in the loom, although it was hard to tell, as the wires were very tight and held close together. Do you have any advice on checking for broken wires i.e. do I need to be cutting the plastic wire covers to check if a wire is broken inside or does the plastic cover normally break as well.

Sorry for all the questions, I haven't got much experience with this type of thing.

Cheers
 
The wires for both the rear heated screen adn the radio arial, connect into the large silver lump on the pasenger side of the boot lid.
This modual is easy to remove with some spanners and common sence (turn the rear window heater off first)

If you have a multimeter or know some one that is handy with one, you can test the conectors in the modual in about 5-10 mins.

If the conections from the modual to the heater / arial are good, then the fault is in the wiring comming from the front of the car.
Both the airal and rear screen heater are on conectors, so can be removed easily for testing.
 
Hello

Thanks for the advice. I didn't find any wires that had come away from the window and couldn't see any wires broken in the loom, although it was hard to tell, as the wires were very tight and held close together. Do you have any advice on checking for broken wires i.e. do I need to be cutting the plastic wire covers to check if a wire is broken inside or does the plastic cover normally break as well.

Sorry for all the questions, I haven't got much experience with this type of thing.

Cheers

Whatever you do PLEASE DO NOT cut anything. If you have no experience with car electrics may I respectfully suggest that you take it to someone who has !

You could do untold damage if you touch the wrong things.

Sorry !
 
I agree, the plastic covers are there to protect wired from chafing etc. These things need unravelled & then put back together the way they were. I'd leave the trim off to save costs of somebody else doing it if that helps at all.
 
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If the raised lines running across the window are damaged (the actual heating filament bit) can this cause the whole thing to stop working?
Does it work like a circuit running across the glass?

Mine isn't working but the light comes on the button for 2 seconds. Get a "00830" fault code on OBD11 app.
My thread here.
 

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