a k&n air filter isn't exactly dripping with oil even if it had a little in the air being sucked through it would dry it out plus even if there was oil in filter it wouldn't be enough to cause damage like a said they don't come dripping in oil even a little would only stick to induction pipes ect. k&N have been around for donkeys theyre not gonna create a product that causes damage some people call it a **** make but they are pioneers imo and a well known well established brand
K&N are more prone to cause MAF failure (oil from the K&N damages the MAF) so keep away.
Basics to do for more power.
Also look at up grading breaks at some point.
- Chip best bang for the £
- Sports CAT and exhaust (The right sport CAT can gain 12bhp alone then whatever the exhaust offers)
- FMIC (to keep that power after heat soak)
was amazining and only £20-£25 for brake pads
Unless you're going 300bhp+ then I wouldn't bother with a FMIC. In fact, a FMIC can cause a slight loss in power in lower powered cars. Plus they generally look quite chavvy.
The best initial investment should be on chassis and braking:
1. Get an RS4 ARB fitted - will massively improve cornering.
2. Bilstein B12 kit
3. Uprated brakes (3.0 / S4 / Big Brake Kit)
4. Then get a remap (R-Tech: ECU Remapping, Performance Engine Tuning, R-tech are one of the best, or Unicorn: Unicorn Motor Developments, Custom Remapping and ECU Services Stockport)
5. After that I'd look at other engine mods like a sports (high-flow) cat and full exhaust system - Milltek for off the shelf, or have a look at Style Dynamics: Custom stainless steel exhaust systems for a good quality custom system.
I do agree with your list though one thing you have to remember is that not everyone is going to be blasting round a track lap after lap after lap. If that is the case then yes I'd say properly sorting your suspension and brakes is a key upgrade to withstand the torture a track will throw at it. For the average road road user though they just want a bit more oomph to accelerate a bit quicker, make faster overtakes etc. In general they wont corner any harder than previously just because they have had a remap.
For joe public I'd say a simple brake pad upgrade to the likes of Ferodo DS2500 pads, using higher boiling point brake fluid and a remap seeing up to 230hp will work just fine. If however you do like cornering rather hard then yes the suspension modifications would be worthwhile. Just my thoughts though.
Sadly stockport is a very long way from me and star is even further so I'm looking into either an APR stage 1+ map (Unsure if my ECU is compatible with APR though) or Revo stage 1. I've read that the APR map is more progressive and has a larger area under the power curve which to me suggests it is the better of the two and less stressful on the mechanical components than the Revo.
Is the discount still going Steve and is the site price discounted or am I to expect 20% off of the £299+VAT mentioned on the revo site?