A/C does not switch on - Is it because it's cold outside?

[reator22]

My A/C was working fine, but suddenly It seems to stop working. The outside temperature has decreased a lot. I have de car for just 2 weeks and thought it could be because outside is cold already!

Is there any temperature threshold to have it working?

Thank you.

 

[rum4mo]

Yes, the chiller part is stopped from working in case it freezes up its evaporator, but that only happens at around and below - maybe +6C. What temperatures are you currently seeing?

 

[reator22]

Was +11.. not that cold! Going to check in a minute as it's warmer now..


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[rum4mo]

No, it should work okay at that temperature, maybe my guess of +6C was a bit too high though, I think that it is covered in the owner's handbook?

Edit:- the rest of the heating and ventilation system should continue to work though, just the chiller section will get inhibited at low temperatures.

 

[Dippy]

Usually when a snowflake symbol appears on the DIS the outside temperature has fallen to 5C or below. I remember that my B5 manual stated that the A/C would not work at 5C or below. I haven't actually looked at the same info for my B8 but I have been assuming its the same.

 

[rum4mo]

I'd think that will be a good assumption, same R134a refrigerant used.

 

[reator22]

Just checked with +18 outside! Everything works fine but AC does not! The switch light does not stay on, only if you keep your finger pressing it!

What could be? It was working fine some days ago.


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[rum4mo]

You would need to get that car scanned using a VW Group compliant scan tool to see if any faults are getting logged, then go from there.
Guessing, I'd think that it will be either the pressure switch is U/S or the refrigerant gas/fluid load is too low due to leaking, maybe from U/S pressure switch? All guess work though, you need some hard facts to work from, and scanning that car should yield some hard facts.

 

[reator22]

You would need to get that car scanned using a VW Group compliant scan tool to see if any faults are getting logged, then go from there.
Guessing, I'd think that it will be either the pressure switch is U/S or the refrigerant gas/fluid load is too low due to leaking, maybe from U/S pressure switch? All guess work though, you need some hard facts to work from, and scanning that car should yield some hard facts.

I guess is worth saying that my timing belt was changed a few days ago, and after that I haven't checked the A/C.

So, I guess it could be related to it, as the front bumper and other components where taken apart.

With timing belt change what do you think I should check and where?

I have order a cheap cable and VCDS lite to read the error codes, however I was just told that it will not work with my car!




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[GeoffDunk]

Sounds like an AC fault, light will go out or not come on at all when different issues arise (low or no gas, broken or failed compressor etc.). The B8 works what ever the outside temperature as its not just about chilling the internal air but also drying it out and on winter days its excellent for clearing the windscreen. I use mine when it's -5 outside temperature, heated seats on while I wait for the screen to clear, which is a oot quicker when using AC.

Another tip, never turn the AC off, keep the temp you want and select "auto" and leave it running all year round, keeps it in good condition and there is no shock when you turn it on for the 1st time when you really need it. When there is an issue you know straight away.

 

[reator22]

Sounds like an AC fault, light will go out or not come on at all when different issues arise (low or no gas, broken or failed compressor etc.). The B8 works what ever the outside temperature as its not just about chilling the internal air but also drying it out and on winter days its excellent for clearing the windscreen. I use mine when it's -5 outside temperature, heated seats on while I wait for the screen to clear, which is a oot quicker when using AC.

Another tip, never turn the AC off, keep the temp you want and select "auto" and leave it running all year round, keeps it in good condition and there is no shock when you turn it on for the 1st time when you really need it. When there is an issue you know straight away.

I believe it's related with timing belt change! Was working fine before! To change the timing belt the mechanic had to put the front of the car apart and it might have affect some AC component.

It can be a coincidence but would be nice to know what components of the AC are disconnect or touched in order to change the timing belt! Then I could have a look..

Calling the garage tomorrow to see what they think!



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[rum4mo]

Sounds like an AC fault, light will go out or not come on at all when different issues arise (low or no gas, broken or failed compressor etc.). The B8 works what ever the outside temperature as its not just about chilling the internal air but also drying it out and on winter days its excellent for clearing the windscreen. I use mine when it's -5 outside temperature, heated seats on while I wait for the screen to clear, which is a oot quicker when using AC.

Another tip, never turn the AC off, keep the temp you want and select "auto" and leave it running all year round, keeps it in good condition and there is no shock when you turn it on for the 1st time when you really need it. When there is an issue you know straight away.

Weird, are you completely sure about that, I do accept that Audi do not seem to give much in the way of advice on the use and limitations of use of the chiller, but facts are facts, and any fridge chilling equipment will only operate over a certain temperature range, and +5/+6C is the lower limit VW Group impose on all their cars by default to prevent heavy icing up of the evaporator some icing up will occur above that but it is accepted as being managable, it will be built into the management of the AC system.

 

[reator22]

Just contact my dealer and garage and that have said to me that the AC needs regasing and they have to remove the pipes when changing the timing belt!

Weird that they haven't told me, and now they want me to pay 22.5 pounds to regas the AC. They say the job costs 45 but they pay half as a goodwill as they didn't know that they have to remove pipes prior to check the car.

Do you think it's fair to pay the job that should be included?

I don't know if I should accept, either ask to have done for free or even go to another garage as I'm can't trust them anymore!

Is regasing a easy job?




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[desertstorm]

Regassing is an easy job but TBH if they have had to break the AC system and remove a pipe the proper way to do that is to recover all the gas from the system first then break the system down. You need the specialist AC equipment to do that.
If they had done that then I can't see why they wouldn't have refilled the system after they had completed the job.
They should have factored in the recharge of the AC system with the price of the belt change. I take it they are not a VAG specialist as I would have expected them to have done these before.
I would see if you can get it done for nothing, a lot of joins on the AC system have O rings and these should be replaced to avoid leaks when the pipes are dismantled. I suspect they probably haven't replaced these so even if it is regassed you may have an issue in the future.
Going forward I would find a reputable VAG specialist. You may pay a little more but you are more likely to get the job done correctly in the first place.

 

[Chris90]

Dont need to remove any air con pipes to do the job. You can get enough movement on the rubber hoses to swing the complete front out the way to do the belt.

Mine from the weekend

 

[Chris90]

As far as charging you for the work...the air con presumably worked before it went into the garage for work, and now it doesnt. So regardless of what they have done...its their liability....even more so now they have admitted they took pipes off to do the job you wanted them to do.

Wouldnt have a leg to stand on if trading standards got involved.

 

[rum4mo]

Hummmm, messy business, as said they probably have not bothered to replace any O-ring seals, so I'd be getting it done properly now - even if that means paying a proper place, but let them know that the system has been taken apart.

 

[reator22]

Hummmm, messy business, as said they probably have not bothered to replace any O-ring seals, so I'd be getting it done properly now - even if that means paying a proper place, but let them know that the system has been taken apart.

To get the proper job done and rings changed, its necessary to take things apart like front bumper etc? Or it's a easy job?

Thank you.



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[desertstorm]

You would probably have to remove the front bumper to get at the pipe joins. Not that difficult to do.
http://etka.cc/audi/part_single/cat...bcategory/260040/part_id/254747/lang/e#sec_11

pipes 6 and 10 are the flexi pipes that goto the front of the car. You can see there are O rings Items 7 and 11 that are used on the joints at the condenser. As Chris90 shows above the front is designed to flip open to allow access to the front of the engine without breaking the AC circuit.
You can change the cambelt without splitting the AC.

 

[reator22]

Many thanks for the answer! Very helpful! I will have to have a proper conversation with my dealer!

My partner want me to give the car back as we bought it just 2 weeks and this kind of issues does not stop!

I should never ever trusted the garage to change the timing belt!

Despite these issues I love this car..


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[LukeyC]

Hang on - is no one else bothered/ concerned the air con doesn't work at low temps?

Come winter it will be around 0, sometimes down to minus 3 when I leave for work. In all my previous cars I'd whack the windscreen defroster mode on, and the rear heated screen whilst de-icing the windows. I found the air con helped stop any further condensation on the inside of the windscreen build up.

Now you're telling me I can't run the air con during my morning drive to work at any point if it's not warm enough!?

I genuinely can't understand this mentality. I mean, in those sorts of temps you get dragon breath so can literally see the vapour condensing mid-air. Why the hell wouldn't I need air-con available in that situation!?

 

[reator22]

Guys, if the garage agrees to regasing the AC for free, do you believe is worth to have done and see how it goes and than if there is any leak I can sort it after? Or is there anything than can go wrong if I don't check now for leaks?


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[AudiLeon]

I've never noticed on any of my cars that the aircon hasn't switched on. I took mine to Invergarry for nye and it switched on.

 

[Skard]

You can go into measuring blocks of your HVAC in VCDS and it can tell you why the AC won't activate.
This isn't a fault scan, it is live logging.

 

[reator22]

Just scanned with Carista and only have one fault:

Heater & air conditioning
Part #: 8T2820043S
Coding: 34040000 (hex)
Component: KLIMA 3 ZONEN
Fault codes:
00256 Givers for refrigerant pressure / temperature (G395)

I guess it might just need regasing. Am I right?


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[rum4mo]

I've never noticed on any of my cars that the aircon hasn't switched on. I took mine to Invergarry for nye and it switched on.

No one said that your AC will not switch on, it is just that I'd think that the chiller section operation will be inhibited at low temperatures. The defog/defrost option just directs more air to the windscreen area, closes off incoming fresh air(maybe) and if temperatures permit, switches on the chiller if it is not already enabled.

 

[rum4mo]

Just scanned with Carista and only have one fault:

Heater & air conditioning
Part #: 8T2820043S
Coding: 34040000 (hex)
Component: KLIMA 3 ZONEN
Fault codes:
00256 Givers for refrigerant pressure / temperature (G395)

I guess it might just need regasing. Am I right?


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I thought that you said that you now knew that the refrigerant had been removed and not re-loaded, so yes, get it regassed, they will need to pull a vacumn on the system prior to re-loading the R134a, and if there is a significant leak, they should know about it and replace the O-ring seals that have been disturbed, you might just have to live with the original seals if that system passes its vac out stage of the regas!

 

[reator22]

I thought that you said that you now knew that the refrigerant had been removed and not re-loaded, so yes, get it regassed, they will need to pull a vacumn on the system prior to re-loading the R134a, and if there is a significant leak, they should know about it and replace the O-ring seals that have been disturbed, you might just have to live with the original seals if that system passes its vac out stage of the regas!

I know, they have told me! Just checked erros because the garage has not telling me the truth! So, just double checking if there was more errors!

Pull a vacuum on the system is a normal procedure for re-load like those one you pay 50 pound in most garages?

Need to know, otherwise, once again they may not do a proper job.



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[rum4mo]

Yes, pulling a vacumn on these types of fridge systems is standard way of doing things as it, removes any impurities and water vapour in the system - and also provides a crude means of accessing if the system is not leaking. Remember, a fridge system needs to have only refrigerant in it, not refrigerant and air and water vapour as that would be a bit of a problem!