8p door handle

[Eoghan12]

Hey guys,

New to the forum. Looking for some much needed help.

Rexe tly changed My drivers side wing mirror as motor in the old one died. Everything back together job done and now my door won't open with the outside handle but will with the inside.

Read a few great threads here about opening the door from the inside and outside simultaneously, do you guys think the same could apply in my scenario. Really don't want to have to go digging around in that damn door again.. Any advice would be great

 

[ch1z64]

When you say motor are you talking about window regulator module or wing mirror motor , cause if it is module then probably coding if 2nd hand , if mirror motor then definitely lost

 

[Eoghan12]

When you say motor are you talking about window regulator module or wing mirror motor , cause if it is module then probably coding if 2nd hand , if mirror motor then definitely lost

It was just the mirror motor not the window reg, thinking I could of knocked it out of kilter or something when reassembling the door ect

 

[ch1z64]

The inside chrome handle is connected by a wire rod to the handle so I can see how that would be ok but as for the outside one totally confused , unless both are connected in some way.
If you where only removing mirror motor did you just remove mirror glass from case and disconnect all wires going to glass then unscrew motor and disconnect , then replace in reverse and it works but handle doesn't .
Maybe it's nothing to do with wing mirror and just a coincidence

 

[Eoghan12]

The inside chrome handle is connected by a wire rod to the handle so I can see how that would be ok but as for the outside one totally confused , unless both are connected in some way.
If you where only removing mirror motor did you just remove mirror glass from case and disconnect all wires going to glass then unscrew motor and disconnect , then replace in reverse and it works but handle doesn't .
Maybe it's nothing to do with wing mirror and just a coincidence

Had to take door card off and upper door off in order to reattach new motor and wires ect.

 

[Eoghan12]

And outside handle still feels the same to use tension wise. Just doesn't work

 

[ch1z64]

Is it just normal heated wing mirrors you have or have you done the retrofit off power folding mirrors , it's just when you mention upper door off would that be the window frame between the door skin , if that's correct then it could be something in there you might have disturb other than that I am certainly baffled what has happened. When you say you can't open it is that with just key fob or by hand

 

[Eoghan12]

Is it just normal heated wing mirrors you have or have you done the retrofit off power folding mirrors , it's just when you mention upper door off would that be the window frame between the door skin , if that's correct then it could be something in there you might have disturb other than that I am certainly baffled what has happened. When you say you can't open it is that with just key fob or by hand

Just normal heated mirrors with electric adjustment, no power folding. Yes I removed the window frame while installing new one. It just won't open with the outside handle. The key turns in the key hole. It'll open from the inside. Just not from the outside. Wouldn't mind if it was the passenger side but its my side

 

[ch1z64]

Can only think you might off disturbed something when you removed window frame . Probably best tomorrow to take doorcard off and check all wires are ok , and see if door opens with door card off . Check all bolts are back in the door correctly especially the ones at the door end ( where hazard light is ) that's all I can think off .
Now you no how to put autofolfing mirrors on and just change modules and code

 

[Eoghan12]

Can only think you might off disturbed something when you removed window frame . Probably best tomorrow to take doorcard off and check all wires are ok , and see if door opens with door card off . Check all bolts are back in the door correctly especially the ones at the door end ( where hazard light is ) that's all I can think off .
Now you no how to put autofolfing mirrors on and just change modules and code

I wonder could I of misplaced a bolt in the wrong areo. Could this impinge the mechanism in some way

 

[ch1z64]

Exactly what I was thinking , if I mind right there are 2maybe 3 bolts go back in on the side where red hazard light is

 

[Eoghan12]

Exactly what I was thinking , if I mind right there are 2maybe 3 bolts go back in on the side where red hazard light is

2 bolts one long one behind a grommet and a slightly shorter just above behind the rubber flap

 

[ch1z64]

Might be worth unscrewing them taken them out and see if you can unlock from there , frame be fine as it is held in by window regulator , if it doesn't work swap bolts round and see what happens incase you have them wrong way round if you get my drift

 

[Eoghan12]

Might be worth unscrewing them taken them out and see if you can unlock from there , frame be fine as it is held in by window regulator , if it doesn't work swap bolts round and see what happens incase you have them wrong way round if you get my drift

Guess I know what I'm doing on my day off... I'll have to dukes of hazard it until then. Thanks for the advice pal

 

[traindweller]

I think you are going to have to take the door card off again to look at the door lock. The inside door opener works because it has a separate mechanism on one side of the lock whereas the outside door handle has a rod which goes into a yellow and black connector on the end of the lock mechanism. My thoughts are that the rod is not into the connector properly and not lifting the mechanism, if so, it is an easy fix by carefully manouvering it back down with long nose pliers into the position it should be. You can test it in position without putting the door card back on.

Have a look at Tim Williams video ( ) at the end and you will see the yellow connector I am talking about. Hope you manage to fix it without too much time or trouble

 

[Eoghan12]

I think you are going to have to take the door card off again to look at the door lock. The inside door opener works because it has a separate mechanism on one side of the lock whereas the outside door handle has a rod which goes into a yellow and black connector on the end of the lock mechanism. My thoughts are that the rod is not into the connector properly and not lifting the mechanism, if so, it is an easy fix by carefully manouvering it back down with long nose pliers into the position it should be. You can test it in position without putting the door card back on.

Have a look at Tim Williams video ( ) at the end and you will see the yellow connector I am talking about. Hope you manage to fix it without too much time or trouble

Thanks very much for the advice. I'm gonna get the card off in Tuesday and have a look. Hopefully it's nothing to bad, thanks for the video also but it's a dead video. Any chance you could post the link to the video. That would be a massive help. Do I need to remove the window reg in order to get access to the rods?

 

[traindweller]

@Eoghan12,
Sorry about the video but try the link below.
You don't need to remove the window you will be pleased to know! Remove the card and you should see the inside of the door lock and if you operate the handle from outside you will see if it is the rod slipped out of position in the connector. To take the lock out if you have to, simply remove the torx bolts on the outside edge of the door, disconnect the loom and then manipulate it out through the gap below the lock, it will come out without unbolting or removing the window just needs to get the right position.
There are lots of good guides if you Google A3 8P drivers door lock removal.

 

[Eoghan12]

@Eoghan12,
Sorry about the video but try the link below.
You don't need to remove the window you will be pleased to know! Remove the card and you should see the inside of the door lock and if you operate the handle from outside you will see if it is the rod slipped out of position in the connector. To take the lock out if you have to, simply remove the torx bolts on the outside edge of the door, disconnect the loom and then manipulate it out through the gap below the lock, it will come out without unbolting or removing the window just needs to get the right position.
There are lots of good guides if you Google A3 8P drivers door lock removal.

Great little video, will jump in tomorrow and have a look thanks for the advice. I'll keep yous posted on my findings. Thanks again

 

[Eoghan12]

Right men, the mystery remains. Having had the door card off the metal rod is still attached via the little yellow and black clip all the bolts are fastened in the correct holes. Am open to any suggestions as to what else I could try

 

[traindweller]

What happens when you operate the outside door handle, does it lift the latch that the rod is connected to?
Even though the rod is in the yellow connector it may have moved, so the travel on the rod may not be lifting the latch when it should be. You need to check what happens with the door handle and if needed slide the rod down or up depending on what is going on.
Alternatively it may be the lock part that is defective but I doubt that. The only way you can check that is to disconnect the rod and manually lift the latch, don't forget the door will need to be closed for the lock mechanism to operate/test correctly

 

[Eoghan12]

What happens when you operate the outside door handle, does it lift the latch that the rod is connected to?
Even though the rod is in the yellow connector it may have moved, so the travel on the rod may not be lifting the latch when it should be. You need to check what happens with the door handle and if needed slide the rod down or up depending on what is going on.
Alternatively it may be the lock part that is defective but I doubt that. The only way you can check that is to disconnect the rod and manually lift the latch, don't forget the door will need to be closed for the lock mechanism to operate/test correctly

OK so I'll readjust the rod, the end of the rod was rather close to the clip. Could the rod be detached from the inner door handle. Can't remember if it moved up and down while at the lever. I guess tomorrow I's another day of tinkering

 

[traindweller]

OK so I'll readjust the rod, the end of the rod was rather close to the clip. Could the rod be detached from the inner door handle. Can't remember if it moved up and down while at the lever. I guess tomorrow I's another day of tinkering

The external handle rod and the internal handle cable are attached to the lock in different places so not attached to the inner handle. Look at the pic below and you can see the yellow clip for the outer at the top (rod fixing)and the darker grey clip at the bottom for the inner handle/cable
Many guides tell you to mark the position of the rod before detaching it from the yellow clip, so that indicates that the position is critical to the correct operation.From memory the rod is at least 25 mm through the yellow clip. When you look carefully at the rod it also has a bend in it so that position is also important.
If you do try to detach the clip and or the rod, a tip is to stuff a rag below it so when it falls you can retrieve it instead of trying to get it out of the bottom of the door! Trust me that is not easy to do!
I would try to ease the rod down the yellow clip without opening the clip first to see if that makes a difference, if so, great. Try to avoid taking the clip out or the lock unless the rod adjustments do not work. Hope that helps but any thing you are not clear on please ask as happy to help.

 

[akaDuchess]

Had similar issue, with intermittent failure of alarm arming and locking/unlocking. No power driver mirror (lights/mirror controls not responding). Had no power to my rear driver door (windows/locks didn’t respond) via fob or driver door master switch.

Easiest first step is to replace the switch, but in the process of doing so, use a voltage meter to check for static on the line. If there isn’t any, the signal is broken somewhere.

Check the wiring harnesses to the front of the driver side door. Two wires commonly will bend and eventually separate after years of wear opening/closing the door. The harness I’m directing you to runs from the main fuse box and control panel to control all of the electrical signals to the doors. Using the inner handle doesn’t require electricity, for safety purposes, so it will manually open the door.

If there IS static on the lines running to the driver door master switch, try replacing the switch itself, first. About a $30 part.

Next, in the event that wiring harness has no damage, before risking damage to all four doors, frustration and loads of time chasing where the fault in the circuit is lurking, get yourself the wiring diagram and Ross Tech software to scan your ODBII. This program will give you way more info than you will need, but it will tell you exactly where it senses the break in the circuit (static/no static).

Or if you have the time and feel you can disassemble all four doors, and you have the driver door off it sounds like, by all means and more power to you for braving that electric rabbit hole, haha.

If I’ve been unclear in my direction or lacking detail in any descriptions, or you have questions on anything else, ask away and I’ll do my best to clarify. Good luck and hopefully that one harness or switch sets things right.

Did it for me, until the dealership doing an airbag recall decided to replace my entire fuse panel without authorization. (or even admitting doing so in any of the invoices.) I had developed an intimate knowledge of my fuse boxes from hand checking and testing every fuse in that car four times over while narrowing down the issue to the wiring harness. The ports and panel was a totally different part and fuse configuration. This ultimately messed up my throttle, the EPC system, stalled the engine, intermittently wouldn’t lock/unlock certain doors, and about 99 more problems I didn’t have before they touched it...and a $2000 bill for providing these additional services. A mysterious 9 hour labor charge to *only* replace a single wiring harness...figured out this is how they covered up and mitigated their costs from Greenhorn Tech Billy’s pretending to know what he’s doing, weeklong, dismantlement and dismembering of my engine bay electronics.

My poor baby was never the same. May she RIP.