79k Hasn't had clutch/flywhel change?

Joshua Ward

Registered User
Hi all,

My car (Audi S3 8P) had just hit 79k, had it for around a month and the clutch is feeling a little high, this is my first Audi but i imagine they aren't usually high. From what ive seen people are recommending 80k-100k for the change?

havent had any slipping or issues changing gear still all smooth.


any advice?
 
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Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Mine was changed at 104k miles, so it will be getting close but may have many miles left in it yet.
You may want to budget for a new one if you plan to have it mapped as that will show up a weak clutch very quickly.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
Mine was changed at 104k miles, so it will be getting close but may have many miles left in it yet.
You may want to budget for a new one if you plan to have it mapped as that will show up a weak clutch very quickly.

i have got a couple of quotes cheapest being ECS Malvern at £1194 thats including VAT. i had plans to do it next month but might leave it till the june/july as by then i will just be in the 81k.

thanks for the feedback
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
No set time for a proactive clutch change. There have been members on this site with over 200k on the clock and still the original clutch is fine. It depends how the car has been driven (motorways or stop/start urban) and whether it has been remapped.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
I tend to commute around 20 miles a day mostly on national speed limit roads stopping at 4/5 junctions a day but unaware of it's driving history, it's only had 2 owners beginning it's life in tonnbridge. Just thought id get some advice before dropping that sort of money on it but as I've said the general drivability is flawless the only Nick is the high clutch .



Thanks for the posts guys keep them coming :)
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
Mine was changed at 104k miles, so it will be getting close but may have many miles left in it yet.
You may want to budget for a new one if you plan to have it mapped as that will show up a weak clutch very quickly.


had thoughts on remapping but dont want to put any premature wear on the engine, do you have any idea if im just worrying too much as i'd only be looking at stage 1 no further.

thanks again!!
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
had thoughts on remapping but dont want to put any premature wear on the engine, do you have any idea if im just worrying too much as i'd only be looking at stage 1 no further.

thanks again!!
To be honest you run that risk with a map on a car with higher mileage, it's always a consideration.
When I bought mine I got a Bluefin remap simply because I knew it would give me a power hike, but also because I knew that if the clutch slipped I could put it back to stock power and preserve the clutch a bit longer while I sourced a replacement. it was a good move because the clutch was ok until the BF map was loaded, and then it slipped a few weeks later and I removed it and bought a new clutch.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
To be honest you run that risk with a map on a car with higher mileage, it's always a consideration.
When I bought mine I got a Bluefin remap simply because I knew it would give me a power hike, but also because I knew that if the clutch slipped I could put it back to stock power and preserve the clutch a bit longer while I sourced a replacement. it was a good move because the clutch was ok until the BF map was loaded, and then it slipped a few weeks later and I removed it and bought a new clutch.


Yeah I imagine the clutch would take a hit transferring more power.. anything else to look out for ??
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Well, if you are changing the clutch then it makes sense to do the flywheel too as the job is practically the same, so it saves labour charges by removing it all twice if you only do one at a time.
DV is always worth a check or upgrade to Rev G if you plan to run more boost.
General health check and fluid change is recommended, but I think you said you've done most of this already?

The only issue the Remap gave me was clutch slip in 6th gear. Everything else on mine has been fine.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
Well, if you are changing the clutch then it makes sense to do the flywheel too as the job is practically the same, so it saves labour charges by removing it all twice if you only do one at a time.
DV is always worth a check or upgrade to Rev G if you plan to run more boost.
General health check and fluid change is recommended, but I think you said you've done most of this already?

The only issue the Remap gave me was clutch slip in 6th gear. Everything else on mine has been fine.


Yeah just left with the dv and clutch on my maintainence check list now. Thanks for the advice
 

ab1702

Registered User
There’s no point changing the clutch and flywheel unless it needs it. As someone else has said above, it depends how the car has been driven in the past. Shelling out £1000 for a new one is a bit extreme if it doesn’t need it, I’d personally just carry on running it as it is if you’ve got the money to change it in future if/when it may need replacing.
If you’re considering a stage 1 remap then I wouldn’t be put off from getting one either if it’s because of the clutch. If you have it remapped at a good custom remapper that can give you a dyno printout where it shows a smooth torque curve then if the clutch is ok the remap wouldn’t make it any worse unless you’re launching the car every day.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
There’s no point changing the clutch and flywheel unless it needs it. As someone else has said above, it depends how the car has been driven in the past. Shelling out £1000 for a new one is a bit extreme if it doesn’t need it, I’d personally just carry on running it as it is if you’ve got the money to change it in future if/when it may need replacing.
If you’re considering a stage 1 remap then I wouldn’t be put off from getting one either if it’s because of the clutch. If you have it remapped at a good custom remapper that can give you a dyno printout where it shows a smooth torque curve then if the clutch is ok the remap wouldn’t make it any worse unless you’re launching the car every day.


That what I was thinking thanks !


Besides the clutch, with a stage 1 map (I only want to go as high as 300bhp) would it put any premature wear on any other items or damage the engine. As I don't want to go any further but still want to good life span out of the car?


Thanks
 

prt57

Registered User
That what I was thinking thanks !


Besides the clutch, with a stage 1 map (I only want to go as high as 300bhp) would it put any premature wear on any other items or damage the engine. As I don't want to go any further but still want to good life span out of the car?

It is important to service regularly and use high quality oil.
If you search on here you will find lots of info about what improvements people have done to their cars.
Regarding the clutch, if it has not broken do not fix it.
Many factors go towards determining the life of a clutch.
When I was a boy, the old lady over the road had a Morris minor and she had a new clutch every year.
I have a GTi 1.8T and it had a new clutch at 20K miles due to massive judder. 111k miles later and the clutch is still fine. 60k of those miles have been done with an RTech stage 1 remap. The trick is not to lug the cars in the higher gears.

Thanks
 
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