Problem changing rear pads


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Feb 18, 2007
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Guys just looking for some advice as I am about 10 mins or at least I should be froom finishing the job of changing my rear brake pads.

I have done the passenger side rear pads with no problems. But on drivers side I have done everything including pushing the caliper piston back in but I can not get the caliper to line up properly and get the bolts back in!!!
I think it may be the bolts on the inside of the caliper as on turns a bit, but the other one is locked stiff!!

The other thing is I think I can kinda force the caliper into place but it then appears bent and not closing on the pads as it should.

Any thoughts/opinions or advise on how to overcome this when I get back to work on it in the morning.

Thanks, Lewis
seems like those bolts need to be freed if not you may need another caliper.was that brake working ok ? if not someone may have crossed threads if the pads have been changed before
yea they were working before, but an uneven wear on the pad that came out suggests it was at an angle before.

I am gone unbolt the outer caliper tomorrow and see if a lil shock treatment and WD40 will help them move. Otherwise I may just reassemble with the old pads whilst I get a new caliper.
OK sorted it all this morning (nearly), I freed the bolts and got them to move in and the caliper lined up properly.
It took a big effort to get it to shift thou using the ratchet, the caliper previously must of been forced on with a hammer to get things to line up, but it meant that the caliper was at an angle giving uneven wear on the disc and pads.
I had to reface the disc a bit by spinning it and using a file, it is not perfect but better then before.

I need to bleed the brakes now thou as I got some air in by mistakinigly turning the piston the wrong way.

I think I am gona bleed it all out and use some dot 5.1 later on today. Any special procedures on this as the clutch is hydraulic?
well done but check the braking is good . i usually find a quite road and pull on the handbrake at say 20 mph both back wheels should brake in astraight line .if not you may need new discs and pads but thats sounds cheaper than a caliper even a s/h one.brake fluid is separate but you may need a helper to hold down the pedal .try bleeding that wheel only and then check out the brakes if good it will save alot of bother in afull change.dont overfill the reservoir -garages often do this .
Braking is a bit soft, but it is still good. I am gona flush through this weekend now to 5.1 as it has a higher boiling temp then dot 4 that is more then likley in there atm. And god knows how old it is so it is cooking easier.

I will get a helper, or a one man bleed kit.
I have already worn the pads in over 2 days anyway as I do 70+ miles a day, took it easy yesterday and most of today, but coming home I tested them a bit and I am happy with them.
AFAIK dot 4 is obviously standard fluid. dot 5.1 is just a lighter version of dot 4 that is designed to work better with ABS. dot 5 is silicon based and more suited to track use, needs to be changed every 6 months or so because of it's increased ability to absorb moisture.

dot 5 is really only suited to track use because of the need to change it regularly and cannot be mixed with any of the other fluids, the system will need lots of flushing to remove the previous fluid but it's neccessary to avoid contamination.

so if you're using dot 4 then the alternative of dot 5.1 will only show a difference if and when the ABS operates (which to be fair you don't really want anyway)

the best option is to seek out a dot 4 fluid with a higher boiling point than it's rivals
Dave, thanks for the info!! Will have a search around for the best stuff
I think sometimes I perhaps push the car a tad too hard, but that being said the brakes are baring up alot better now all the pads have been changed.

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