ignition barrel removal

[MS3]

My ignition was stuck in the 'on' position, regardless of how I turned the key (also it would not go to the 'springy' starter motor position)... I was able to remove the cowling and the ignition switch (plugs into the end of the ignition barrel). However at some point in trying to push in the new ignition switch, the little rod broke that protudes from the barrel .....

My question is, can I only remove the barrel with the special key? I do not have one so do I need to get one from Audi? (Its the simple flat spare key) as you can see from the photo, the paperclip trick is not working with the normal key. I can't determine from the Haynes manual if the spare key has some special feature to make the barrel pop out.....

 

[NHN]

Long pin in the barrel hole, it's small, will release the barrel, but you need to knock the 2 snap of bolts 1st with a chisel to turn or flat screwdriver as they have no head to turn on, so 1st create a notch then should turn, then pin the barrel.

 

[MS3]

Long pin in the barrel hole, it's small, will release the barrel, but you need to knock the 2 snap of bolts 1st with a chisel to turn or flat screwdriver as they have no head to turn on, so 1st create a notch then should turn, then pin the barrel.

Many thanks.... does the steering wheel have to come off to knock the 2 snap bolts as they appear to be in a place thats inaccesible and partly behind some more plastic?

I have ordered a Febri replacement ignition housing.

also, here is the part that snapped (part of the housing between barrell and switch - it looks like it already had longstanding imperfection where it broke.

 

[NHN]

You could be best to remove the wheel so you have much more access & space as those 2 bolts need a chisel & hammer to knock them round, so tbh the wheel would be in your way.

 

[MS3]

yes thats what I am thinking ... to avoid damaging the surrounds ...

also the Febri part has arrived. (photo shows the new part with the rod how it should be)

You could be best to remove the wheel so you have much more access & space as those 2 bolts need a chisel & hammer to knock them round, so tbh the wheel would be in your way.

 

[NHN]

Usually it's the ignition switch the white plastic part at the back of that unit that's in your pic, that goes faulty, I'm surprised you've had that snap, alas, just don't forget to plug the coil reader back in, 2 pin connector & line up the module correctly so the ignition connector sits in correctly as some people have bent pins due to incorrect fitment.