Broken rear spring on A4 Allroad

[spartacus68]

Getting too old for this malarcy. I changed the rear spring mounts back in 2024. You're lucky if you get 4 years out of them.

Anyway, everyone knows roads are rubbish just now. I avoid potholes as much as I can, and underside is trusted to Lanoguard annually.

Noticed N/S rear had dropped. New Audi lower mounts and Lesjöfors rear springs. Pretty sure these are OE, and rated for car as it has towbar. Researched on LLL parts, so there's multiple springs available. Audi OE are £120 a corner.

In the past I've swapped out the rear spring seats using jack to press top arm down and spring compressors on spring.

This job isn't for the faint hearted. I have air compressor, air ratchet, air hammer, 3 tonne trolley jack and smaller 2 tonne trolley jack. On broken spring side (N/S) I opted to remove eccentric bolt on lower arm after marking it. Mix of 18mm sockets. The eccentric bolt is 21mm multi tooth.

Of course O/S didn't play ball. Siezed eccentric bolt. Tried PlusGas. Air hammer, the works. Nut came off fine.

Access on a quattro is tight to say the least. Used small 2 tonne jack and two bits of wood, one inside wheel arch, and one on top arm. Also used Draper spring compressor. You can rotate the old spring out on the driveshaft. Top mount and lower mount lubed with a little red grease. This allows spring to rotate a little when compressed so it can locate in the bottom spring mount and final seating.

Spring compressors back on, spring rotated in and engage with lower mount. Insert top mount on the spring, and then lever top mount into final position.

Worst part is the locating 18mm bolt nearest hub. The bolt to the shock was fine, but given tension to arms, it skews. Potentially I should have lifted both sides so less stress on ARB. Anyway, I persevered. Use a little ceramic grease on threads. These bolts are prone to oxide corrosion.

Before tightening eccentric bolt, trolley jack the rear suspension up.

Hope this helps someone of you're contemplating same job.

 

[spartacus68]

Just a quick puck update to this thread.

Been driving the car a week. It’s booked in for 4 wheel alignment in a fortnight. I’m not happy with the ride. I researched these springs and double checked the OE codes. I appreciate there’s a certain amount of settlement after first fitting, but I’ve driven over 100 miles and the ride feels jittery. Before it was absolutely planted. Part of me was thinking, just wait until it’s aligned.

Raised the car tonight and compared the physical circumference of part of the old spring coil v the new one, and there’s a marginal difference, probably 2.5mm, doesn’t sound much, but overall that’s huge over the entire spring surface. The original ones just look a little meatier. To be honest I didn’t even think, other than the spring height prior to fitting.

Rear code is 1BP (rough road) with unique part number 8W0511115EG. That was the part that Lesjöfors cross-referenced, and was specific for a car with a factory towbar.

Anyway, lesson learnt. It’s a pain, but I’m not prepared to keep it as it is. Phoning Audi tomorrow for OE replacements. It’s the sort of thing that would simply irritate me long term. I also tow, and I’ve suffered a broken coil spring up front on my last B8 Allroad on the west coast and was left stranded, and car needed to be recovered on a truck. Garage there fitted KYB up front. To be honest it felt fine And I ultimately swapped out the other N/S/F on return so they were matched.

Anyway, this is just my opinion, but the coil springs and dampers are matched, and certain things like a lighter coil can dramatically alter the handling.

 

[rum4mo]

It's annoying as you've made sure that Lesjofors webcat has matched your original spring part number to their equivalent - in my case I knew that I was taking a risk as the rear springs for my wife's 2015 Polo were not listed "completely" in Lesjofors webcat - the "5 door" part was missing - so now that Polo almost sits level/flat - which is okay as mainly only 2 of us are in it.
The paint covering on Lesjofors springs does, I've discovered after a single Scottish winter, is very poor - I trusted the Lesjofors steel and still do, but the poor paint covering will mean that that steel will end up suffering micro cracking very soon - Waxoyl to the rescue!

 

[spartacus68]

My credit card is currently lying down in a darkened room. Genuine Audi springs £380 for a pair. Audi parts guy didn’t even crack a smile when I mentioned it was expensive. He probably thought “dry yer eyes!”

Anyway, springs sitting in the hall. Forecast is mixed for the weekend. I’ve also been removing eccentric nut to spray PlusGas lube on the thread every couple of days, and using ratchet with 18mm socket to move bolt slightly anti clockwise and clockwise to help it move.

In the background I’ve been watching mechanic Dave Sterl and his approach to stuck bolts. I know he’s not the messiah, but hat off to him, he knows his stuff. I have also purchased a cheap EBay kit with C clamp press if the bolt won’t play ball.


View: https://youtu.be/U-kpqsxsOno?is=FJ5L_6k8wpqBk4Ep

I agree rum4mo, regards Lesjofors. Literally cross referenced via LLL parts, and it’s the same EG Audi part code, but the reality is it’s not right. You drive over uneven ground and the rear end jumps. You could argue that’s the dampers, but car just 75k miles, no misting or leaks on shocks. I’m opting on springs first and going OE. Obviously if it persists I’d go down shock absorber route too. Car has been treated to new springs seats in 2024 and gets annual Lanoguard treatment too.

Couple of videos here if anyone else doing this. This guy says the right stuff, but take it with a pinch of salt.


View: https://youtu.be/Nj6PzetAExU?is=xeszUqV0QtOXZ-nf

The realty of most repairs here in the UK.


View: https://youtu.be/rzDkjU5HW88?si=Zwp99hrpHrET6hOK

 

[rum4mo]

Thanks for that, I've had thoughts about buying that type of C clamp kit in the past, I've still got some room left for that sort of kit!

 

[spartacus68]

New OE springs fitted. Felt like Déjà vu.

Driver’s side eccentric bolt still reluctant to shift. Heat not an option as the bush will be toast otherwise. Tried the C clamp method, but space is tight. Even removed the trim that conceals the Ad Blue tank. Part of this issue, you’re working on your back, the clamp is heavy and you have air impact gun in the other. With receiver added for the eccentric bolt to go into, the screw thread on the clamp engages withe the bolt. Trouble is it vibrates off. No doubt easier with arm off in a vice.

By this point I reverted back to my known method, small piston jack on a block of wood balanced on top rear arm, and piston positioned next to top shock mount. Extend piston until suspension bottoms out.

Should say, both wheels off ground and on jack stands so no complication from sway bar.

You still need spring compressors. I have the single finger Draper ones. I know Sealy do the double finger ones, but I’ve never liked them. Remove the rolled pin on one end, as this will catch on the spring otherwise as it rotates. The rolled pin is to stop the compressor from totally unscrewing, but there’s plenty thread in it, and you need full height on the spring for maximum compression. No need to protect the Lesjöfors springs, they are going to scrap. I used two of these Draper single finger spring compressors.

With spring compressed, it can move back and the top comes off the top mount. Release tension. Spring rotates out from under the car.

Fitting the new one the same, but strips of cloth where spring compressor finger locates on the spring to protect the powder coat.

Use a little red grease on top and bottom mounts as you need to rotate spring to final position. Ceramic grease on bolt threads as you’re likely to be doing this job in the future.

Once everything fitted, jack up suspension under hub, then tighten bolts.

On near side, although eccentric bolt comes out, and this really is straight forward to drop in new spring, you need two trolley jacks, so eccentric bolt hole lines up. One on lower arm with block of wood to press up, and other on suspension hub to lift very slightly. Took me an hour of faffing with pry bars, but the two trolley jack method is the way forward. I still used spring compressors, as the less tension on the arm the better.

 

[rum4mo]

@spartacus68 , do you think that you will eventually "convert" to one of the "single sided" spring compressors - I noticed one being sold at Glamis the other week, for £120 - probably China sourced as it didn't seem to have any visible branding.

 

[spartacus68]

@spartacus68 , do you think that you will eventually "convert" to one of the "single sided" spring compressors - I noticed one being sold at Glamis the other week, for £120 - probably China sourced as it didn't seem to have any visible branding.

I don't think so, unless you are doing springs commercially, not sure it adds much other than speed and convenience. If I had access to a 4 post lift, I'd have probably cut that eccentric bolt and used a hydraulic press to press out the remnants of the bolt.

Just ordered front springs too. Noticed one side is very marginally lower. I've had both wheels off and checked the springs thoroughly, but short of dismantling it's very difficult to tell if it's lost an end. Part number is 8W0 411 105 [CR]

Spoke to Audi Parts. Only one in the UK and the other on back-order, possibly 2 weeks away. That's pretty poor - I'm not driving a McLaren or some other exotic marque. Interestingly and hopefully not thread drift, Ricky - REPerformance has already mentioned this on YouTube about Audi R8s and waiting on parts. I think the whole global industry has been affected.

 

[rum4mo]

It is the better access aspect of these "single sided" spring compressors that impresses me, but I'm probably too old to benefit from scattering cash on that seeing as I've got 3 different brands of compressors - and just last year replaced my "single finger with latch" set of 3 as the lead screw threads now look a bit worn!
My 2011 S4 sits slightly lower on the front RHS - I thought that the compacted/delaminating bush on the front lower arm was to blame - but after replacing all the arms to top mounting, it is still the same and no damage to the ends of the front springs.
Casting my mind back a bit, over a year ago I needed to get the engine mountings replaced on that 2011 S4, the mounting that normally fails first on that car, was on back order, so that cost a month of lost time. Last summer I replaced all the front arms and after not having any luck getting the top pinch bolts out AND ending up with the lower pinch bolt on the LHS shearing, I scattered cash on new Cobapress uprights - and the LHS side was on back order, so another month or more of waiting.
I seems that on some versions of some cars, VW Group do manufacture the dampers inhouse, which is annoying for when trying to exactly match dampers from other sources, spring on the 2011 S4 and maybe some others are also not available from other sources, again annoying, but when you run one of these cars you just need to put up with it. It was the same for either one or both of the engine mountings for that 2011 S4, despite my local VAG Indie claiming that there were many aftermarket ones available - well he withdrew that idea after trying to get some for my car! There are plenty that almost do the job, but like the road springs, not exactly the same.

 

[spartacus68]

I've picked up front springs too, as I have a nagging doubt that when one spring goes, others may follow. The fronts are 8W0 411 105 [CR]. Got one, the other is on back order and likely to take 2 weeks. They can sit in storage until the inevitable happens.

Audi Parts cross-referenced and said they are now 8W0 411 105 [LE]. If you've worked on VAG cars before you will know there's an absolute plethora of springs, rated for the car. They used to be colour codes (paint marks. Certainly that was the case on my old B8 Allroad, and recently on my daughter's VW Polo. B9 (actually for argument's sake, the V5 for my car still describes it as a B8 chassis). I've never heard of springs being subsequently revise, but I know other parts can be superseded. Normally the last letter of the part code changes alphabetically. If you want to double-check - there's should be waterproof labels on the springs if still original. They might be grimy, but usually remain intact. Spray of WD40 should reveal.

Right enough. If you ever want to double check this, then input the parts for your car (you'll find in boot recess or engine bay) and use one of the online decoders for VAG. This denotes car trim, special equipment, etc. In amongst the codes you'll find the specific axle weight of your car, matched to engine, whether towbar fitted, etc. These are mine.

0YP: Weight class 14, rear axle
0JM: Weight class 12, front axle

Then you can cross-reference via LLL parts. Like I said - the list goes on forever!

Audi Coil Spring 8W0411105LE - LLLParts

Audi Coil Spring 8W0411105LE - Worldwide delivery

www.lllparts.co.uk

So 8W0 411 105 [CR] was part for cars manufactured up to 2019 and is cross-referenced against OJM which is the correct vehicle front axle weight. [LE] part code is for vehicles manufactured from June 2022. Again same axle weight.

 

[rum4mo]

I keep bellyaching on about requesting a printout from your VW Group marque's local parts department, ie ask for CAR DATA, that data covers a lot more than the build code label does, and for anyone keeping a car a long time, does tend to answer many possible questions when it's time to buy in parts.