I have not posted in a while but this one is stumping me. I’ve already had the bumper off and replaced the motor thinking this would work.
2016 Audi A4 (B9) Sport – 2.0 TDI 190ps
The Problem: Active Grille Shutters permanently stuck in the closed position with check engine light.
I identified the common failure of the original actuator motor. The original part number on my car was: 95B 965 501 H (Known for being unreliable/failing due to internal gear fatigue).
have since replaced this with the official Audi superseded part. 95B 965 501 AA (The updated, more robust version).
The Current Issue: Despite the new motor being fitted, the car is still throwing a Check Engine light with the following fault code after a few starts of the car.
• PO5A300: Active Grille Air Shutter "A" Control Circuit Range/Performance.
What I've Learned so far. I have not tried everything as yet. Some with the help of LLM’s but I wanted to put it into one post that might help other.
Even with the new 'AA' motor, the B9 platform seems very sensitive to the calibration limits. From my research, here are the critical steps to resolve this "Range/Performance" error that others might find useful. Below
are some of the info I think might help others.
** : If the calibration refuses to run, there is a known issue with the wiring loom that runs to the shutter motor. Because it is at the very front of the car, it is highly susceptible to corrosion and road salt.
• Check the Pins: Pull the connector off the motor and look for green corrosion (verdigris) on the 4 pins.
• The Voltage Check: Use a multimeter to check the harness side (Ignition ON):
• Pin 1: Ground.
• Pin 4: 12V Power.
• Pins 2 & 3: LIN-Bus data signals (you should see a fluctuating voltage around 8–11V).
• Common Failure Point: The wire often breaks inside the insulation about 10–15cm back from the plug due to the constant vibration of the front bumper.
Has anyone else had issues getting the P05A300 to clear even after a hardware swap? Any tips on the software update side would be appreciated.
2016 Audi A4 (B9) Sport – 2.0 TDI 190ps
The Problem: Active Grille Shutters permanently stuck in the closed position with check engine light.
I identified the common failure of the original actuator motor. The original part number on my car was: 95B 965 501 H (Known for being unreliable/failing due to internal gear fatigue).
have since replaced this with the official Audi superseded part. 95B 965 501 AA (The updated, more robust version).
The Current Issue: Despite the new motor being fitted, the car is still throwing a Check Engine light with the following fault code after a few starts of the car.
• PO5A300: Active Grille Air Shutter "A" Control Circuit Range/Performance.
What I've Learned so far. I have not tried everything as yet. Some with the help of LLM’s but I wanted to put it into one post that might help other.
Even with the new 'AA' motor, the B9 platform seems very sensitive to the calibration limits. From my research, here are the critical steps to resolve this "Range/Performance" error that others might find useful. Below
are some of the info I think might help others. - Basic Settings (Adaptation): The car doesn't always "auto-learn" the new motor. You must use VCDS/OBDeleven to run: [01 - Engine] -> [Basic Settings] -> [IDE10304 - Radiator shutters adaptation].
- Mechanical "Timing": If the motor is bolted on while the shutters are closed but the motor is internally set to "open", it will trigger the range error. The motor should be mated to the shutters while they are manually moved to the fully open position.
- Binding Slats: The plastic pivot points on the B9 shutter frame can get gritty. A quick hit of silicone spray on the side pivots helps the motor reach its full travel without hitting a resistance threshold.
- Software (SVM): There is a known TPI/TSB regarding this. If adaptation fails, the ECM often needs a software flash using SVM Code: 01A224
to relax the tolerance levels for the shutter motor feedback. (I have not done step 4 yet) - Inspect the Wiring Harness
** : If the calibration refuses to run, there is a known issue with the wiring loom that runs to the shutter motor. Because it is at the very front of the car, it is highly susceptible to corrosion and road salt.• Check the Pins: Pull the connector off the motor and look for green corrosion (verdigris) on the 4 pins.
• The Voltage Check: Use a multimeter to check the harness side (Ignition ON):
• Pin 1: Ground.
• Pin 4: 12V Power.
• Pins 2 & 3: LIN-Bus data signals (you should see a fluctuating voltage around 8–11V).
• Common Failure Point: The wire often breaks inside the insulation about 10–15cm back from the plug due to the constant vibration of the front bumper.
Has anyone else had issues getting the P05A300 to clear even after a hardware swap? Any tips on the software update side would be appreciated.