Preparation for minor spray job

[fafa]

The attached image shows the area I've sanded down due to some tiny rust bubbles. If you look closely you can just see the pitting it's left behind.

The area underneath is scuffed up with 300 grit sandpaper. I'm wondering if I should mask off and spray just the localised area or continue with paint removal to a larger section (how large). I've got spray can of Daytona grey and a spray can of clear coat to do this DIY job. I was planning to detail the car afterwards and hoping that I could blend it as part of that process. I've got to do this on the other side of the car too. There's also some suncream fingerprints that have damaged the clear coat on the boot. I was going to have a go at with some light grit and respray with the clear coat whilst it's fresh.

 

[spartacus 68]

Painting, however small always turns out to be a far larger task. If there's any pitting, then treat area to a rust convertor first or risk it deteriorating quite quickly after painting.

I have used Jenolite and Krust in the past but have read Vactan is a superior product. 300 grit is still too course in my opinion, you want to be down to around 400.

Warm the paint first in a jug of water and do a couple of test passes before you lay down paint. Spray a couple of coats of zinc etch primer, then rub down again, using 1000 grit, and wet sand. Degrease with alcohol wipe. Couple of colour coats, then a couple of lacquer coats to flash off.

I wouldn't go near the newly painted area for a couple of weeks to let it cure, before any detailing. The clear coat itself can be wet sanded with 1500-2000 grit, then use product such as Menzerna 400 to polish. You can't do this by hand, you need DA or rotary polisher, just watching paint doesn't get hot as it won't be as hard as surrounding paint.

 

[fafa]

Painting, however small always turns out to be a far larger task. If there's any pitting, then treat area to a rust convertor first or risk it deteriorating quite quickly after painting.

I have used Jenolite and Krust in the past but have read Vactan is a superior product. 300 grit is still too course in my opinion, you want to be down to around 400.

Warm the paint first in a jug of water and do a couple of test passes before you lay down paint. Spray a couple of coats of zinc etch primer, then rub down again, using 1000 grit, and wet sand. Degrease with alcohol wipe. Couple of colour coats, then a couple of lacquer coats to flash off.

I wouldn't go near the newly painted area for a couple of weeks to let it cure, before any detailing. The clear coat itself can be wet sanded with 1500-2000 grit, then use product such as Menzerna 400 to polish. You can't do this by hand, you need DA or rotary polisher, just watching paint doesn't get hot as it won't be as hard as surrounding paint.

Thanks for the advice. I had already had a go before you responded and my effort looks awful because I wasn't thinking about blending the new paint with the old. Good thing is I can sand it down and start again and I'll definitely follow your tips. Ta