Facelift Drive system: fault - P0087/Fuel rail/System pressure too low issue

Akaash

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Hi all,

For reference, my car is a 2018 DAZA Sportback with 30k on the clock. Never been mapped or modified.

About a month ago I was stationary for roughly 10 minutes with the car on. There was a small period (around 5 seconds) when the idle felt a bit odd but the car didn't cut out and then idled fine again. When I proceeded to drive off, after going over a steep speed bump at low speed, I got a yellow warning error on the dash reading 'Drive system: fault. Please contact workshop'. The car then proceeded to limit my RPM to a max of 4k. I got to the petrol station, filled up and the warning had gone when I turned the car back on. Even though the warning has gone, the car drives fine but doesn't feel like I'm getting 100% power and is very slow when changing down gears so the issue is clearly still present. At the time I didn't have my OBD scanner so I tried to replicate the issue on my driveway by leaving the car idling for a bit and then driving slowly off but nothing came up. I then went to the same location where it first appeared, sat in the car for about 10 mins, proceeded to drive over the speed bump (it's pretty steep) and lone behold the warning came up again! It read P0087 - Low rail/system pressure.

I took it to a recommended Audi specialist in North London. They found the following faults:

1. Oxygen sensor fault - Bank 1, Senor 2 (had no idea about this one as it never came up when I scanned the car and I never had a check engine light)
2. EVAP Emissions (they said this was related to the o2 sensor issue)
3. Low fuel rail pressure

They recommended I replace both o2 sensors instead of just the faulty one. I asked why as this didn't make much sense to me but apparently having a new o2 sensor and having the paired one being older can cause issues, this can cause the ECU to flag a fault code. If this did happen (I was told it was likely and they've seen this before) they would have to charge me a diagnostic fee again and labor to install the other o2 sensor so I got them done both at the same time. In hindsight, after speaking to an ex Audi tech friend of mine (was on holiday at the time and not responding to messages) I don't think this was necessary and I was probably ok to replace just the faulty sensor.

They also said they thought the o2 sensor was causing the low fuel rail pressure and replacing the o2 sensor should fix that issue too. They cleared the codes, took the car for a drive and said it was all fine. No fault codes appearing (I did mention, the P0087 related error only seems to come up when I have about 30ish miles in the tank and I'm idle for a while then drive off).

The car is still not getting 100% power, feels like it's being limited and the car is still hesitant to change down gears. Even when I come off the throttle, it almost feels like the car is engine braking slightly (I'm guessing this is due to the fuel not being delivered correctly). It seems the low rail pressure issue is still present but it's very difficult to try and get it to appear on the dash. I've read some other threads which look similar (Thread 1) (Thread 2) (Thread 3). Stuck in traffic or idling for long periods of time on lowish fuel and get the same error, looks to be the fuel pump control module on some of the RS3's were fault however these cars were new at the time. Mine is a 2018 model, 30k on the clock. Would the control module suddenly fail now? Also my car isn't stalling or cutting out, it's just limited in power and and sluggish on changing down gears. Changing up is fine.

Apologies, I know I've written a lot, but if you are still reading this, I have a few questions.

1. I understand the fuel filter is not a serviceable item on these RS3s but I've read this could be causing the P0087 issue. Are these located under the rear seats with the low pressure fuel pump? If so, does anyone know the part numbers for this?
2. I'm going to change the fuel pump control module too. I understand this is also under the rear seats. Does anyone know the part number for this too?
3.
Is there any other cheaper items I should try replacing myself before sending it to another garage?
4. Does anyone know of any Audi specialists they can recommend around the London area I can send the car to? I don't really want to send it back to the previous Audi specialists as I ended up paying just under £800 to get two oxygen sensors replaced when I probably only needed to do one and I was told a faulty oxygen sensor could also be causing the P0087 code but after doing some research and speaking to another garage, an o2 sensor has nothing to do with low fuel rail pressure and they are not linked.
 
Couple of thoughts: 02 sensors fail usually because they get clogged, IMHO replacing both is sensible as it is unlikely only one would be clogged. Not strictly necessary and replacing one would not be a problem but common sense to do both given the fault.

Have you had it on VCDS and done logs? (not just a generic OBD scanner)

What fuel have you been running, any stop start traffic? They could all be linked by bad fuel.
 
Couple of thoughts: 02 sensors fail usually because they get clogged, IMHO replacing both is sensible as it is unlikely only one would be clogged. Not strictly necessary and replacing one would not be a problem but common sense to do both given the fault.

Have you had it on VCDS and done logs? (not just a generic OBD scanner)

What fuel have you been running, any stop start traffic? They could all be linked by bad fuel.
Nope, just scanned it with my Carista scanner. Don't know anyone with VCDS to take a look. Given I'm keeping the car for a while, it's probably worth me investing in VCDS and learning how to use it...

90% of the time I use Tesco's 99 momentum but sometimes use Costcos premium unleaded if I have to fill up and I'm passing by. Drive a mixture of start/stop traffic and motorway driving. I've filled up quite a few full tanks since the original warning appeared on the dash. If it was bad fuel, wouldn't the car be working fine now?

Or do you mean some sort of contaminant was in the fuel and it's now stuck in the car somewhere? I'm hoping the fuel filter would prevent this and may just need replacing.
 
Unfortunately, until someone gets at it with a proper diagnostic like VCDS then you are guessing. Live data and logs can narrow things down dramatically.

Cheap fuel is not the problem but places that supply cheap fuel have higher instances of a bad tank full. That's my experience anyway. The MPI injectors are not usually a problem but the FSI injectors are under huge pressure and can easily get blocked or damaged by bad fuel. Ethanol and octane booster do it on tuned cars but a tank of bad fuel can do it too.

Given it happens when the fuel is low, it may be a blocked breather. Next time it happens try running with no fuel cap for a short while to see if it clears.

I still recommend VCDS and someone who knows their way around it. Surprised the Indi you took it to didn't log it with VCDS.
 
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If you suspect bad fuel causing the problem the best decision would be to replace the fuelfilter... a new one will be able to deal better with whatever contaminent might be causing problems. Also get yourself a fuelsystem cleaner (the type you add to the tank) and prime the new fuelfilter with it before putting it on. chuck the rest of the cleaner in the tank ( the less fuel the better) and drive it a bit harder than normal right after (a good 15 miles will be sufficient to help clear the fuelsystem. My go to fuelsystem cleaner is from the brand STP but there are a bunch of others that work really well like the stuff from LiquiMoly. So pick a cleaner of your choice, grab a new fuelfilter, prime it with the cleaner, put it on... drop the rest of the cleaner in the tank, go for a short but brisk drive. Note: Keep the car in low gears with high revs(this works the injectors harder)... that should do the trick if you've got any fuelsystem contamination problems.
 
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If you suspect bad fuel causing the problem the best decision would be to replace the fuelfilter... a new one will be able to deal better with whatever contaminent might be causing problems. Also get yourself a fuelsystem cleaner (the type you add to the tank) and prime the new fuelfilter with it before putting it on. chuck the rest of the cleaner in the tank ( the less fuel the better) and drive it a bit harder than normal right after (a good 15 miles will be sufficient to help clear the fuelsystem. My go to fuelsystem cleaner is from the brand STP but there are a bunch of others that work really well like the stuff from LiquiMoly. So pick a cleaner of your choice, grab a new fuelfilter, prime it with the cleaner, put it on... drop the rest of the cleaner in the tank, go for a short but brisk drive. Note: Keep the car in low gears with high revs(this works the injectors harder)... that should do the trick if you've got any fuelsystem contamination problems.
By chance do you know where the fuel filters are located on these 8v facelift RS3’s? I’ve looked online but there isn’t much around that topic. From what I’ve gathered, it looks to be by the low pressure fuel pump under the rear seats as it’s not a serviceable item.
 
If you suspect bad fuel causing the problem the best decision would be to replace the fuelfilter... a new one will be able to deal better with whatever contaminent might be causing problems. Also get yourself a fuelsystem cleaner (the type you add to the tank) and prime the new fuelfilter with it before putting it on. chuck
 
By chance do you know where the fuel filters are located on these 8v facelift RS3’s? I’ve looked online but there isn’t much around that topic. From what I’ve gathered, it looks to be by the low pressure fuel pump under the rear seats as it’s not a serviceable item.
The fuel filter for the Audi RS3 8V model is located on the driver's side in front of the rear wheel.
When replacing the fuel filter, it is advisable to pinch the fuel lines on both sides before removing them to prevent fuel leakage. The filter is situated outside the fuel tank and can be accessed easily once the fuel lines are disconnected.

It's important to note that Audi dealerships may quote a high labor cost for this task due to their service manuals suggesting extensive disassembly, which is often unnecessary for DIY replacements