Hi, I have a clunking outer C.V joint, a quick look with full lock on revealed lots of moly grease on the wrong side of the boot. As per title, are there brands I should look for? What to avoid?
Cheers
Cheers
C.V joints which to buy or avoid?
- Thread starter Karlos1987
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2015
- Messages
- 3,590
- Reaction score
- 782
- Points
- 113
I bought J&R drive shafts for my 8L S3, they were okay, but the boots split when I fitted the same make onto my 8N TT.. apparently the boots are not good enough, some people buy the drive shafts, then change the boots before fitting. (The shafts are a bit thinner)
@Stuart B, where did you get them from? I got the car jacked up this morning, I think the inner joint is the one that's clunky, and the outer boot is split. Unless the clunking is within the gearbox itself. So unsure if I should replace inner joint and outer boot or just buy a whole driveshaft. The driveshaft is more expensive but probably less hassle when it's being fixed in the road. Been looking at shaf-tec joints/driveshafts at SES
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2015
- Messages
- 3,590
- Reaction score
- 782
- Points
- 113
Just search for j&r driveshafts and put in your registration number
You need to see if you have bolt or nut type first, those images say they are nut type, but that is wrong for my car.. so the ones below are the correct for mine.. but you need to look first at the hub to see if bolt or nut, the fitment instructions are different too..
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2015
- Messages
- 3,590
- Reaction score
- 782
- Points
- 113
Yeah, as i said okay for my S3.. when I bought them for my TT failed before the 2 years and i was angry with them because I bought a drive shaft and when the boot failed they sent out a replacement boot and grease and boot fitting tool thing.. but as the side that failed was the side of the original that hasn't failed, I just put the original one back on. BWSTT does a good video, showing him buying them then changing the CV Boots to better boots because they are known to split (depends on driving of course) i spent most of the time testing maps, so 3rd gear pulls from 1700rpm to red line, to see what the car was doing.. so lots of maximum torque ~330ftlb
To be honest @Stuart B , the car has now developed another fault (no power to the fuel pump) so unless I can find out what it is quickly and it's a cheap fix I'll probably be selling the car for spares as it's becoming a money pit that is virtually worthless, plus I could really do with a van now anyway. But I will still look into those shafts if the non starting issue is easy to resolve
I've been a bit slack on this to be fair, I bought a van (which I'm undecided as to whether I'm going to keep) so I've not actually gotten around to doing this as it was sat for a few weeks but mot is due next month so I probably should. What length is the driveshaft that I need? There's about 4 or 5 options depending where you look, 808mm 810mm 822mm and 825mm iirc. All day they're for an AUM with a manual gearbox, does it matter? I've tried to contact main dealers parts department but never get an answer
See if the original Audi sticker is still on the driveshaft regards length. For CV joints, I used to use GKN which I think is OE on Audi, but rubber boot used to perish within a couple of years.
I didn't think to look for any sort of sticker to be fair. I think from looking on autodoc that the shorter shafts are for 180bhp quattro models and the 822mm are what fits a 150bhp two wheel drive car.