Sportback RS3 caliper mounting bolt

[Akaash]

Hi all,

Apologies if the answer is somewhere in a thread, I've had a look but cannot find the exact answer.

I'm planning on changing the front discs and pads on my 2018 RS3 Sportback this weekend.

I can see when removing the two 21mm caliper mounting bolts, you should replace them with new bolts. I wanted to ask if anyone knew the part numbers for these bolts or does anyone know the measurements so I can order some.

Whilst on the topic, I've got the following, am I missing anything?

- Discs and Pads
- Nail punch
- Hammer
- Socket and Spanner set
- Caliper hanger
- Torque wrench (1/2 & 1/4)
- Impact wrench
- liqui moly anti-squeal spray
- Brake cleaner
- Wire brush
- Anti seize to put on hub. (some have said do this, some have said don't)?

Also again apologies if this is a dumb question, the T-30 Torx for the disc. Is there a certain torque spec for this?

If I get enough time, I'll be doing the rears too but need to order the software solution (going to be using Carista) to retract the EPB.

Any tips or anything I've missed would be much appreciated.

 

[Darren92]

PM me your VIN I can get it, however I've ever replaced carrier bolts in my life and doubt most do (including dealers).

 

[Akaash]

PM me your VIN I can get it, however I've ever replaced carrier bolts in my life and doubt most do (including dealers).

Amazing thank you, sent you a PM.

I was also shocked. Most tutorial videos I saw, not one person used new bolts.

 

[NHN]

Reuse bolts it's bs to change for new, I've done this on numerous cars & funny enough just upgraded an A3 reused everything, they're not stretch & retain there quality.

 

[Akaash]

Yep, I've decided to just reuse the current bolts, more so because making a drive to my nearest Audi is a real pain.

For anyone interested in the part number it is N91084901 (thanks again Darren).

 

[8YARWY]

Re-use

Hi all,

Apologies if the answer is somewhere in a thread, I've had a look but cannot find the exact answer.

I'm planning on changing the front discs and pads on my 2018 RS3 Sportback this weekend.

I can see when removing the two 21mm caliper mounting bolts, you should replace them with new bolts. I wanted to ask if anyone knew the part numbers for these bolts or does anyone know the measurements so I can order some.

View attachment 280587

Whilst on the topic, I've got the following, am I missing anything?

- Discs and Pads
- Nail punch
- Hammer
- Socket and Spanner set
- Caliper hanger
- Torque wrench (1/2 & 1/4)
- Impact wrench
- liqui moly anti-squeal spray
- Brake cleaner
- Wire brush
- Anti seize to put on hub. (some have said do this, some have said don't)?

Also again apologies if this is a dumb question, the T-30 Torx for the disc. Is there a certain torque spec for this?

If I get enough time, I'll be doing the rears too but need to order the software solution (going to be using Carista) to retract the EPB.

Any tips or anything I've missed would be much appreciated.

Hi all,

Apologies if the answer is somewhere in a thread, I've had a look but cannot find the exact answer.

I'm planning on changing the front discs and pads on my 2018 RS3 Sportback this weekend.

I can see when removing the two 21mm caliper mounting bolts, you should replace them with new bolts. I wanted to ask if anyone knew the part numbers for these bolts or does anyone know the measurements so I can order some.

View attachment 280587

Whilst on the topic, I've got the following, am I missing anything?

- Discs and Pads
- Nail punch
- Hammer
- Socket and Spanner set
- Caliper hanger
- Torque wrench (1/2 & 1/4)
- Impact wrench
- liqui moly anti-squeal spray
- Brake cleaner
- Wire brush
- Anti seize to put on hub. (some have said do this, some have said don't)?

Also again apologies if this is a dumb question, the T-30 Torx for the disc. Is there a certain torque spec for this?

If I get enough time, I'll be doing the rears too but need to order the software solution (going to be using Carista) to retract the EPB.

Any tips or anything I've missed would be much appreciated.

Re-Use, I've done this several times over the years on different RS cars, I've also taken the caliper off via the forward facing bolts that screw through it's body too, lol

The Torx screw is 4.5nm

Very easy set up to work on.....

 

[JontyMort]

Re-use



Re-Use, I've done this several times over the years on different RS cars, I've also taken the caliper off via the forward facing bolts that screw through it's body too, lol

The Torx screw is 4.5nm

Very easy set up to work on.....

Does anyone actually refit the Torx grub screw permanently when changing discs? My procedure is to use it temporarily to keep the disc steady, then refit the caliper bracket, and then the caliper and pads. At that point the pads will stop the disc falling off and you can remove the screw before refitting the wheel. Those screws have a nasty habit of rusting in - making removal an impact driver job.

 

[NHN]

I always add grease to them, if they stick a whack with a hammer on the socket head usually helps, but the grease usually stops the issue & yes always fit the screw.

 

[flybynite]

Does anyone actually refit the Torx grub screw permanently when changing discs?

Yes but I change wheels twice a year onto winters and back and last thing I want is to knock the disk get dirt behind it and mess up the runout. Bit of copper grease if all steel, ally grease if not and don't over tighten. Been fine on every brake I have done over last 4 decades.

making removal an impact driver job.

I assume you mean the one you hit with a hammer not the battery powered one. That is all I have ever needed, bit of heat and a couple of whacks with an impact driver and usually out first go.

Those battery powered things have done more damage to more cars than I have seen anything else do, but I guess it is not the tool's fault

 

[JontyMort]

I always add grease to them, if they stick a whack with a hammer on the socket head usually helps, but the grease usually stops the issue & yes always fit the screw.

I suppose in an ideal world we would slacken and re-check the screws every time we had the wheels off, which would stop the problem. My most recent experience was on my son’s Suzuki last year. The previous owner had clearly never looked at the brakes. To be fair to Halfords, the combination of their (relatively inexpensive) impact driver and liberal use of the sledgehammer and foul language got the discs off.

 

[JontyMort]

Yes but I change wheels twice a year onto winters and back and last thing I want is to knock the disk get dirt behind it and mess up the runout. Bit of copper grease if all steel, ally grease if not and don't over tighten. Been fine on every brake I have done over last 4 decades.



I assume you mean the one you hit with a hammer not the battery powered one. That is all I have ever needed, bit of heat and a couple of whacks with an impact driver and usually out first go.

Those battery powered things have done more damage to more cars than I have seen anything else do, but I guess it is not the tool's fault

Yes, my manual impact driver was acquired last year for exactly this task - not on an Audi. I bagged the sledgehammer part of the job on the grounds of seniority (“No, you hold the driver, I’ll hit it”).

I agree about power tools. Some idiot over-torqued my A4’s wheel-bolts a few years ago. Attempted removal sheared the key for the locking bolt, entailing a trip to a specialist for removal.