Advice on S1 clutch master cylinder needed.

[Fishyboy900]

Hi All, new to this site after owning a 2016 S1 Competition for the past year. Recently lost my clutch pedal driving home and managed to nurse her back. I've bought a new master cyclinder in the hope that that's the problem and have everything ready to remove the clutch pedal. My problem is the two 13mm nuts that hold the bar across the pedals. The one on the right of the brake pedal I have loosened with difficulty, the one on the left i just can't work out how your supposed to get in to it let alone get it off. I've removed the lower trim of the dash and the plastic blower for the AC. Can anyone advise please?

Everything on the engine side of the bulkhead has been removed (with difficulty)!

 

[Phazer]

It's almost certainly going to be the slave cylinder inside the gearbox so you might as well have the clutch done at the same time.

p,s Competition was only available from 2017 onwards, do you perhaps have an S1 with Quattro exterior pack? Post a piccie

 

[Fishyboy900]

It's almost certainly going to be the slave cylinder inside the gearbox so you might as well have the clutch done at the same time.

p,s Competition was only available from 2017 onwards, do you perhaps have an S1 with Quattro exterior pack? Post a piccie

Yes, that's the one, quattro exterior pack. I agree regarding the slave cylinder, I'm just crossing my fingers that it's not. It's booked in at the garage for a new slave cylinder and clutch etc but it's very expensive and I've only just got the car back after the steering packed in. Also very expensive! It'll save the mechanics time and me money if I do the master cylinder first. Thanks for your reply though, much appreciated.

 

[Phazer]

Yes, that's the one, quattro exterior pack. I agree regarding the slave cylinder, I'm just crossing my fingers that it's not. It's booked in at the garage for a new slave cylinder and clutch etc but it's very expensive and I've only just got the car back after the steering packed in. Also very expensive! It'll save the mechanics time and me money if I do the master cylinder first. Thanks for your reply though, much appreciated.

Ahh I see, fair enough I suppose it's worth a try. Yeah the common steering fault is properly expensive - assume you needed a new column?

Here's the service manual pages for the master cylinder which might help?

 

[Fishyboy900]

That's great information, thanks for that. Is there a page that shows you how to remove the bar? My mechanic removed my one and sent it to a specialist company and they repaired it. No potential coding problems. Thankfully it's been fine since and came back with a two year warranty. I absolutely love it when it works but my patience is running low. Where did you get your workshop manual?

 

[Phazer]

That's great information, thanks for that. Is there a page that shows you how to remove the bar? My mechanic removed my one and sent it to a specialist company and they repaired it. No potential coding problems. Thankfully it's been fine since and came back with a two year warranty. I absolutely love it when it works but my patience is running low. Where did you get your workshop manual?

Do you mean the crash bar?

You can get the manual from ErWin - it's about 8euro for 30 mins access which should be long enough to grab all of the files for your car

 

[Fishyboy900]

Do you mean the crash bar?

You can get the manual from ErWin - it's about 8euro for 30 mins access which should be long enough to grab all of the files for your car

Yes, the crash bar. It is the same as in the A1 and after following the manual instructions have it and the pedal / master cylinder out. The game changer was dropping the column and then the single nut became visible. I’d been looking at the wrong ones. I can only put it down to me being an old donkey, not good at limbo, being upside down, with glasses and a head-torch and being in pain. Now the fun begins trying to put it all back together. Thanks for the information, it definitely made the difference in me eventually removing the pedal and cylinder.

 

[Fishyboy900]

Do you mean the crash bar?

You can get the manual from ErWin - it's about 8euro for 30 mins access which should be long enough to grab all of the files for your car

Hi Phazer, with a little help from my wife who's hands are much smaller than mine, it's all back together. You were correct in the first instance as I still can't get a pedal after bleeding. The car is booked in for a new clutch and slave cylinder. Bank manager has been informed! Thanks again for the information.

 

[Phazer]

Hi Phazer, with a little help from my wife who's hands are much smaller than mine, it's all back together. You were correct in the first instance as I still can't get a pedal after bleeding. The car is booked in for a new clutch and slave cylinder. Bank manager has been informed! Thanks again for the information.

Ahhh, worth a try at least. Certainly not a cheap job for the slave unit, hopefully sticking a better clutch in than oem?

 

[Audicfc]

How much is it for an oem clutch and how much is it for the slave cylinder ? Is it the same one they use in the manual s3 ?

 

[Fishyboy900]

Hi, I'm going Sachs organic don't know where from yet. It'll be price dependent. Lately I've been using Online carparts / Autodoc, servicing, brakes and the master cylinder. They do the slave for just over £40 but you need to add postage It's trackable and the longest I've had to wait was three days. Can't fault there service and the website can be searched on reg or vehicle details. They do clutch kits.

 

[Phazer]

Hi, I'm going Sachs organic don't know where from yet. It'll be price dependent. Lately I've been using Online carparts / Autodoc, servicing, brakes and the master cylinder. They do the slave for just over £40 but you need to add postage It's trackable and the longest I've had to wait was three days. Can't fault there service and the website can be searched on reg or vehicle details. They do clutch kits.

Yeah Autodoc is the cheapest if you watch the prices. Sachs is the sensible choice too.

 

[Phazer]

How much is it for an oem clutch and how much is it for the slave cylinder ? Is it the same one they use in the manual s3 ?

OEM is expensive - new flywheel is over £700 but it's mainly the labour that's the killer. The box has to come off and then wheel alignment is needed afterwards as the subframe is removed.

 

[H|TM@N]

Save yourself a lot of trouble and change the clutch with a UniClutch while you have the gearbox out to replace the concentric slave cylinder. My Concentric slave cylinder decided it would only release halfway and fried my Sachs Performance clutch. I decided to just go with a UniClutch Track. You also don't necessarily have to replace the flywheel, but in this case I had no choice, as my flywheel was completely fried too. There are a couple of gotchas though. you need to add a CSC spacer and a spacer between the gearbox bellhousing and the engine. The UniClutch has better feel than the OEM and Sachs Performance and the pedal is ofter too.

 

[Fishyboy900]

Thanks, that’s great info. Does the spacer come as part of a kit or is it a special order. Mine goes in next week!

 

[H|TM@N]

Thanks, that’s great info. Does the spacer come as part of a kit or is it a special order. Mine goes in next week!

Unfortunately, it's a special order. The plus side is that UniClutch should know about this and should have all the measurements to cut the CSC spacer and the spacer between the bell housing and the engine.

 

[Fishyboy900]

Thanks.

 

[iLikefishing]

I contacted Uniclutch to enquire about one of these amazing looking clutches and they replied that they didn't do one for my S1, could you tell me who supplied yours please ? And what was the total cost with the spacer etc ? How does it compare to the sachs clutch as I was also considering one of those as my OEM one is now starting to slip.