2ltr TFSI Quattro - Suspension compatibility between models

[Raif]

Evenings,

I have a 2012 2ltr TFSI Quattro Sline.

I have had many b5 / b6's but this is my first b8 after a break from Audi's

Body work, interior, engine and transmission are really good but unfortunately it transpires it spent a lot of it life on the north coast of Scotland and is pretty crusty and corroded suspension / running gear wise.

Recently we did the front wheel bearing and rear dampers and broke nearly every single bolt we touched.

The front drivers side is sitting 10 mm to low and the bottom of the spring has corroded out, there is zero chance the pinch bolt is coming out!

I am thinking due to corrosion it will be quickest and easiest to just buy a full drivers side hub and suspension assembly and replace the whole lot while just retaining current brake caliper.

My question, would the front assembly off a diesel Quattro be the same as a Petrol quattro as the diesel are far more common?

Any advise would be appreciated

Thanks

Raif

 

[rum4mo]

The uprights seem to be the same as long as they are from a similar age, the reason being, that the front, lower rear arm pin changed in size at an early stage in B8.

So aim for maybe 2011 onwards build date, any other changes that occurred from late 2011 onwards were concerning the front lower front ball joint - changing from M12 to M14 - that only affected, as far as I know, the actual ball joint and the arm it fits to - the upright remains the same.

I have not worked out why or if you should aim to replace these uprights with the same manufacturer's ones as there were 2 used and still offered as spare parts. I can expand on that if you want as I've been building myself up for "an arms change" on my 2011 S4!

So, you managed to replace the front wheel bearings - how nasty was that to do, in like what method did you need to employ to persuade the hub/bearing assembly out of the upright?

Lower pinch bolt, for me, seems not to want to come out - again corrosion issue, I've bought a cheap induction heater to try to help me out a bit even although I know that its steel bolts into aluminium I hope that using that might force the corrosion to compact and break free a bit.

Edit:- the front RHS sits 5 > 10 mm lower than the front LHS and I have not found a good reason for it, okay there is obviously slight "compaction" on the front lower front arm rubber bush where the damper fork connects onto to, but no more than that - maybe the top mounting is also "compacted" - I've already bought a full set of arms, top mounting and all fixings.

 

[rum4mo]

Maybe take a look at places like "steeringknuckles.co.uk" prices before buying an "unknown history" used knuckle(s), plus work out, by looking at your car, if your car has Cobapress uprights or the other brand.

 

[rum4mo]

KSM is the other supplier of these steering knuckles/uprights to Audi, there is a guide online to help you work out which uprights are currently fitted to your car.

 

[Raif]

The uprights seem to be the same as long as they are from a similar age, the reason being, that the front, lower rear arm pin changed in size at an early stage in B8.

So aim for maybe 2011 onwards build date, any other changes that occurred from late 2011 onwards were concerning the front lower front ball joint - changing from M12 to M14 - that only affected, as far as I know, the actual ball joint and the arm it fits to - the upright remains the same.

I have not worked out why or if you should aim to replace these uprights with the same manufacturer's ones as there were 2 used and still offered as spare parts. I can expand on that if you want as I've been building myself up for "an arms change" on my 2011 S4!

So, you managed to replace the front wheel bearings - how nasty was that to do, in like what method did you need to employ to persuade the hub/bearing assembly out of the upright?

Lower pinch bolt, for me, seems not to want to come out - again corrosion issue, I've bought a cheap induction heater to try to help me out a bit even although I know that its steel bolts into aluminium I hope that using that might force the corrosion to compact and break free a bit.

Edit:- the front RHS sits 5 > 10 mm lower than the front LHS and I have not found a good reason for it, okay there is obviously slight "compaction" on the front lower front arm rubber bush where the damper fork connects onto to, but no more than that - maybe the top mounting is also "compacted" - I've already bought a full set of arms, top mounting and all fixings.

Thanks for the response I will research the bits you have mentioned, front wheel bearing wasn't to bad and came out with a little physical persuasion.

I know spring has lost a chunk of the bottom as the corrosion was noted on replacing the wheel bearing and I got a loud clunk when driving from the front end after lowering it back from doing some exhaust work!

 

[Raif]

Afternoon, quick update I this.

A5 /Q5 have the same arms etc.

I bought the whole corner off a Q5 & strut/spring out of an A5 Sline.

Spring had lost an inch of the bottom and deflected bottom plate by an inch also!

All good now