There's a video here where the wheels look like as you describe. I agree, I think they look better than the black.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KohrsWbM4Nc
B9 My new to me Navarra RS4
- Thread starter alps26
- Start date
There's a video here where the wheels look like as you describe. I agree, I think they look better than the black.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KohrsWbM4Nc
Apparently moth balls, got to be rent,a,kill ones, cats hate the smell, used to put them in the rain channel,ie boot, bonnet, best thing is to shoot the F__kers, with high powerd water guns, good luck.I was able to stop the sunshade closing when the lock button on the key/hoor handle is held with some VCDS coding
1. Go in to Module CA (Sunroof)
2. Adaptations
3. Search for '13330'
4. Set it to 'not active'
5. Do it!
You can also stop the sunshade from opening with the key by using the same coding above but look for '13329'. I didn't do this though.
In other news, next door neighbours new cat (feral little a******) has put scratches on the bonnet when it decided to sit on the roof. It lasted all of a week after all the polishing effort, I was fuming! I could polish them out but it means re-applying ceramic coating. I don't want to do that on a small patch and I don't have enough Exo left to do the whole bonnet so they're staying.
If anyone has any (humane) suggestions from keeping cats off the car I'd be open to hearing them
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I remember watching this video before buying the RS4. I think a couple shades darker than those diamond cut wheels is what I would be looking for.
I've bought some upgraded brake pads for the front axle as the outer ones were looking a little low and I've never liked the feel of the compound that's on currently. They still have enough meat on them for a few 1000 miles but after finding out discs are £320 EACH and the OEM pad compound is harsh on the discs. I decided to change the pads to Brembo HP2 Sport pads.
www.bremboparts.com
There are ECE R90 approved so, road legal, less dusty (apparently), less noisy (apparently) and less harsh on the discs (apparently) so I can eek as much life out of them as possible. I think they're worth a punt for £170.
I would have liked Ferodo DS Performance pads but after much research, they don't make them for the RS4 B9 Akebono calipers. I had these on the S3 and they were brilliant. These Brembo HP2 look like a good alternative without going Ferodo DS2500 which aren't road legal (I THINK due to them needing heat to work properly so first brake can be sketchy).
The new pads don't land for a few weeks as there isn't any in the UK at the moment but will update once they're fitted.
SPORT | HP2 brake pads Brembo 07.D435.61
The 07.D435.61 brake pad is synonymous with reliability
www.bremboparts.com
There are ECE R90 approved so, road legal, less dusty (apparently), less noisy (apparently) and less harsh on the discs (apparently) so I can eek as much life out of them as possible. I think they're worth a punt for £170.
I would have liked Ferodo DS Performance pads but after much research, they don't make them for the RS4 B9 Akebono calipers. I had these on the S3 and they were brilliant. These Brembo HP2 look like a good alternative without going Ferodo DS2500 which aren't road legal (I THINK due to them needing heat to work properly so first brake can be sketchy).
The new pads don't land for a few weeks as there isn't any in the UK at the moment but will update once they're fitted.
l'm interested on how these perform, my existing Audi dealer fitted ones squeal quite a bit. Had it back into them after getting them fitted and they told me the pads on RS5's & 4's do suffer from break squeal, something to do with the compound.I've bought some upgraded brake pads for the front axle as the outer ones were looking a little low and I've never liked the feel of the compound that's on currently. They still have enough meat on them for a few 1000 miles but after finding out discs are £320 EACH and the OEM pad compound is harsh on the discs. I decided to change the pads to Brembo HP2 Sport pads.
SPORT | HP2 brake pads Brembo 07.D435.61
The 07.D435.61 brake pad is synonymous with reliability
There are ECE R90 approved so, road legal, less dusty (apparently), less noisy (apparently) and less harsh on the discs (apparently) so I can eek as much life out of them as possible. I think they're worth a punt for £170.
I would have liked Ferodo DS Performance pads but after much research, they don't make them for the RS4 B9 Akebono calipers. I had these on the S3 and they were brilliant. These Brembo HP2 look like a good alternative without going Ferodo DS2500 which aren't road legal (I THINK due to them needing heat to work properly so first brake can be sketchy).
The new pads don't land for a few weeks as there isn't any in the UK at the moment but will update once they're fitted.
So if these shape up, I'll defo be looking to change my existing ones.
Keep me updated please @alps26
JG
Yeah they do seem to squeal, a friend of mine has a 2020 RS4 and his brakes squeal too. Hard braking from 70 to 10 a few times sorts it for a while but isn’t feasible to keep doing. I believe it’s a glaze building up somewhere that causes it because they’re made for a bit of abuse
Will let you know but I’m not holding my breath in the squealing being gone 100%. Hopefully these at least reduce it.
Luckily the squealing can’t really be heard with the windows closed but is embarrassing from the outside
I run the Brembo HP2 pads front and rear and have done since the day i bought mine, due to quite frankly crap stock pads.
squeal is there if you get them really hot and then cool done and then start rolling slow in traffic, but a quick 50-20mph consistent brake cleans them up and it goes
Just about to replace all my brakes with Paragon discs (they make them for 034 motorsport) and Hawk 5.0 pads
@alps26 where abouts in the north west are you? i'm in in west cumbria and seen you got yours from Hadwins
squeal is there if you get them really hot and then cool done and then start rolling slow in traffic, but a quick 50-20mph consistent brake cleans them up and it goes
Just about to replace all my brakes with Paragon discs (they make them for 034 motorsport) and Hawk 5.0 pads
@alps26 where abouts in the north west are you? i'm in in west cumbria and seen you got yours from Hadwins
How have you found braking performance of the HP2 vs the stock pads and whats the brake dust like? Glad to hear the squeal can be sorted in a better manner than the stock pads.
I'm in Preston. Yep, it was Hadwins (Lake District Audi) I got the car from. The previous owner had it maintained at Cumbria Audi but was originally supplied from Hadwins.
I killed the stock pads they over heated on one long spirited drive, utter garbage pads
Can’t fault them tbh been in 5000miles and still give good bite and don’t fade unless really really pushed
I’ll report back once the stock discs thrown in the bin and proper discs with floated centres fitted, I’ve done alot to mine for handling
Ohlins R&T, ARB’s, Paragon discs and hawk pads
Yeah Hadwins is my local Audi/VW dealer
The RS4 had its MOT this week and a service at the dealers. Nothing to report other than the oil was overfilled but they quickly sorted that for me. Can’t really blame the dealership, the lack of oil dipstick is stupid!
They've adjusted my pan roof as it was dipped down too much at the front and also changed a “software parameter” to help with the CarPlay issues I’ve been having so I’ll keep an eye on that.
New pads have arrived and will likely fit them next weekend. @silky16v what bed in procedure did you use when you fitted the Brembo pads?
They've adjusted my pan roof as it was dipped down too much at the front and also changed a “software parameter” to help with the CarPlay issues I’ve been having so I’ll keep an eye on that.
New pads have arrived and will likely fit them next weekend. @silky16v what bed in procedure did you use when you fitted the Brembo pads?
You can get an aftermarket dipstick (I use one)
Just fit them (you might need the correct type of socket to remove calipers from carrier)
I just bed them in by driving for about 50 miles using them more and more as miles clocked on and then some 60-20mph hard braking and allow time to let them cool
Thanks!
There looks to be 2 ways to change them and one of them doesn't need the 12 point 13mm socket but might source one anyway in case the other bolts don't want to come off.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/872749-B9-S4-S5-DIY-brake-pad-and-rotor-change (it's for an S4 but I believe the RS caliper is the same design but bigger)
I'll see how I get on with the front pads then change the rears if I like them, the replacement procedure for the rears is the same as my old S3. Luckily my discs weren't flagged for replacement on the MOT.
One thing to note with the replacement Brembo pads, they do not come with replacement shims, clips or the wear sensor. You only get the pads. I plan to re-use my old wear sensor as it hasn't triggered (assuming it doesn't break when removing)
Yeah buy the socket easier than removing the carrier to hub bolts
Do both sets together as they bed in together
Correct they don’t have shims not needed I’d buy some wear sensors as mine broke
The sensors aren’t expensive for aftermarket
I replaced the front brake pads. I haven’t bedded them in yet so I have no verdict on them yet and I’m still waiting for the rear pads to arrive. I got a bit giddy to fit them and I’ll bed them all in together, I won’t be using the car much this week. I did go on a very short drive and there was no brake squeal but then they haven’t been used enough to get glazed.
There are 2 methods to replace the front pads and discs.
I tried the former by hammering a 13mm 12 sided socket onto the heads, tried to turn it but I could see the head deforming so I sacked this method off well before the head became unusable. I think these bolts aren’t meant to be removed and they’re special heads so people don’t mess with them.
Things you need
Also the wear sensor fits on the other side of the Brembo pad (you’ll know what I mean when you fit it) so route it accordingly.
I tightened the 21mm bolts to 200nm. Pump the brake pedal to make sure it goes firm after installation.
I’ll do some instructions for the rears when I fit them, but you’ll need VCDS or something else to wind the parking brake back so it could be a non-starter for some people.
I have a BNIP, spare front wear sensor (Delphi branded) which I can sell cheap if anyone wants it. The design of the Delphi one seems better and more sturdy than the OEM one. Drop me a PM if interested.
There are 2 methods to replace the front pads and discs.
- 2x special 13mm bolts which attach the caliper to the caliper carrier
- 2x normal 21mm bolts which attach the whole caliper assembly to the hub.
I tried the former by hammering a 13mm 12 sided socket onto the heads, tried to turn it but I could see the head deforming so I sacked this method off well before the head became unusable. I think these bolts aren’t meant to be removed and they’re special heads so people don’t mess with them.
Things you need
- The normal tools you need to remove the wheels (jack, 17mm socket etc.)
- 21mm socket and an extension for leverage
- Silicone based grease. I used LM2 grease
- Flat head screwdrivers
- Torque wrench
- Something to rest the caliper on
- New wear sensor. I got mine from GSF car parts but they come as a pair for the front even though there is only one. My old wear sensor disintegrated up on removal. Think I paid £27 all in with the rear one.
- I recommend gloves and a face mask, I blew my nose after and it wasn’t pretty
- Remove the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag over the reservoir to soak up any brake fluid that could overflow when the caliper pistons are pushed back.
- Remove wheel.
- Turn the wheel to the opposite side you are working on so that you can access the 2x 21mm bolts at the back of the caliper.
- Lever out the clip that holds the brake line to the bracket.
- There is a wear sensor on the passenger side only, twist this out of its bracket and unplug it.
- Undo the 2x 21mm bolts. They’re very tight and you may need some sort of extension for leverage that fits within the confines of the working area.
- Pull the caliper off the disc, take care to guide the brake line out of the bracket and place the caliper on something so that the brake line isn’t stressed. I used a tub of paint and put a rag on top of it so that you don’t scratch the caliper. Some brake pad crap fell out of mine and scratched the paint on the caliper on one side
- With the old pads in place, use a rag to protect the caliper and use a G clamp to force the pistons back
- Use a screwdriver to lever the old pads out, no need to mess with the clips on the back of the caliper.
- Put some silicone based grease on the back of the new pads.
- Put the new pads in and installation is the reverse of taking them off.
Also the wear sensor fits on the other side of the Brembo pad (you’ll know what I mean when you fit it) so route it accordingly.
I tightened the 21mm bolts to 200nm. Pump the brake pedal to make sure it goes firm after installation.
I’ll do some instructions for the rears when I fit them, but you’ll need VCDS or something else to wind the parking brake back so it could be a non-starter for some people.
I have a BNIP, spare front wear sensor (Delphi branded) which I can sell cheap if anyone wants it. The design of the Delphi one seems better and more sturdy than the OEM one. Drop me a PM if interested.
Replaced the rear pads this evening, they’re super easy to change. Took an hour all in.
Things you need
I bed them in by doing a few 60-20mph runs without activating ABS and let them cool in between the runs.
It’s still early days but the pads are much quieter! So far, no squeal at all. It was noticably quieter with just the fronts replaced but better to have the same pad compound all round for predictability. Even when braking at a slow speed I got a slight grinding noise with the OEM pads, this is gone now. It will be interesting to see how it is in a few weeks after a few short journeys to see if the squeal comes back, but the initial signs seem promising.
They have a bit more bite than the OEM pads, generally more feel and it properly stops on its nose! For me, it’s a worthwhile upgrade for the feel alone even if the squeal comes back (hopefully it doesn’t or it’s reduced)
I‘ll update on the squealing and brake dust in a few weeks. My understanding is they do dust but not as much as the OEM pads and it’s easier to remove.
Things you need
- Brembo HP2 (07.B315.74) pads
- 13mm socket
- 17mm spanner
- VCDS or equivalent to release the parking brake
- G glamp or equivalent to push the piston back
- Loctite
- New rear wear sensor
- Make sure the car is flat and chock the wheels. It won’t go anywhere as it will be in Park but better to be safe
- I used VCDS to put the parking brake into service mode. Take the parking brake OFF or the next bit will fail. Go into module 03 > basic functions > start brake lining replacement > Go!
- Turn the ignition off
- Remove wheel
- Hold the inner nut with a 17mm spanner, remove the rear 13mm bolt (repeat for the lower bolt) and slide the caliper off the disc, the pads will remain in the carrier, lever them out with a screwdriver
- The caliper piston pushes back so I used a G clamp as I did with the fronts. Be careful not to put too much force and crack the motor housing on the back of the caliper as it’s only plastic.
- My old pads had a clip which fit into a recess on the carrier (see pic where I’ve loosened them). I removed them by putting a screwdriver in the bottom and twisting it. The new pads had spring clips attached to them so the original clip was redundant. The caliper actually looks the same as the one my S3 but bigger.
- There is only one rear wear sensor and it’s on the drivers side. Mine snapped when I took it off so good job I had a new one. Pay attention to the inner pad as it has a cutout for the wear sensor and the outer one doesn’t. The wear sensor only fits to the pad one way and I spent longer than I care to admit working this out!
- Installation is the reverse. The 13mm bolt should be 30nm but I didn’t have a torque wrench that goes this low so I went with “gutentight” . Remember to apply loctite to the thread.
- Once the wheels are back on, go into module 03 > basic functions > stop brake lining replacement > Go! You will hear the caliper adjust itself. Check the parking brake works as it should.
I bed them in by doing a few 60-20mph runs without activating ABS and let them cool in between the runs.
It’s still early days but the pads are much quieter! So far, no squeal at all. It was noticably quieter with just the fronts replaced but better to have the same pad compound all round for predictability. Even when braking at a slow speed I got a slight grinding noise with the OEM pads, this is gone now. It will be interesting to see how it is in a few weeks after a few short journeys to see if the squeal comes back, but the initial signs seem promising.
They have a bit more bite than the OEM pads, generally more feel and it properly stops on its nose! For me, it’s a worthwhile upgrade for the feel alone even if the squeal comes back (hopefully it doesn’t or it’s reduced)
I‘ll update on the squealing and brake dust in a few weeks. My understanding is they do dust but not as much as the OEM pads and it’s easier to remove.
Nice write up - thanks for sharing. I’ll be using this when my rears need replacing in the future.
As for the discs - the holes often get choked up with dust etc. Is the general consensus to leave them as is, or to carefully clean the holes out with a drill bit or something like that?
As for the discs - the holes often get choked up with dust etc. Is the general consensus to leave them as is, or to carefully clean the holes out with a drill bit or something like that?
Yeah you can see the holes are a bit blocked on the pic I posted above.
I guess you could use a drill bit (I’d probably use a wooden toothpick/cocktail stick) but I think you’ll be peeing into the wind as it won’t be long before they’re blocked again and there is a lot of holes! I’m pretty sure the leaflet that came with the Brembo pads said that this is normal and to leave it. I’m 99% sure it washes out with the pressure washer when you wash the car so this is probably the way to go
It will be interesting to see if you can release the parking brake with VCDS given the SFD limitations on the newer cars
I guess you could use a drill bit (I’d probably use a wooden toothpick/cocktail stick) but I think you’ll be peeing into the wind as it won’t be long before they’re blocked again and there is a lot of holes! I’m pretty sure the leaflet that came with the Brembo pads said that this is normal and to leave it. I’m 99% sure it washes out with the pressure washer when you wash the car so this is probably the way to go
It will be interesting to see if you can release the parking brake with VCDS given the SFD limitations on the newer cars
The part number I used for the front Brembo HP2 pads is 07.D435.61. Best to check these will fit with your PR codes before ordering. The PR code for my front brakes was 1LX. Most places will order them in on a special order so best to order a week or 2 before you need them.I replaced the front brake pads. I haven’t bedded them in yet so I have no verdict on them yet and I’m still waiting for the rear pads to arrive. I got a bit giddy to fit them and I’ll bed them all in together, I won’t be using the car much this week. I did go on a very short drive and there was no brake squeal but then they haven’t been used enough to get glazed.
There are 2 methods to replace the front pads and discs.
I went with the latter.
- 2x special 13mm bolts which attach the caliper to the caliper carrier
- 2x normal 21mm bolts which attach the whole caliper assembly to the hub.
I tried the former by hammering a 13mm 12 sided socket onto the heads, tried to turn it but I could see the head deforming so I sacked this method off well before the head became unusable. I think these bolts aren’t meant to be removed and they’re special heads so people don’t mess with them.
Things you need
The process
- The normal tools you need to remove the wheels (jack, 17mm socket etc.)
- 21mm socket and an extension for leverage
- Silicone based grease. I used LM2 grease
- Flat head screwdrivers
- Torque wrench
- Something to rest the caliper on
- New wear sensor. I got mine from GSF car parts but they come as a pair for the front even though there is only one. My old wear sensor disintegrated up on removal. Think I paid £27 all in with the rear one.
- I recommend gloves and a face mask, I blew my nose after and it wasn’t pretty
Just remember to put the brake line back in its holder before you bolt the caliper back on and you’ll need to straighten the wheel to get the brake line clip back on.
- Remove the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag over the reservoir to soak up any brake fluid that could overflow when the caliper pistons are pushed back.
- Remove wheel.
- Turn the wheel to the opposite side you are working on so that you can access the 2x 21mm bolts at the back of the caliper.
- Lever out the clip that holds the brake line to the bracket.
- There is a wear sensor on the passenger side only, twist this out of its bracket and unplug it.
- Undo the 2x 21mm bolts. They’re very tight and you may need some sort of extension for leverage that fits within the confines of the working area.
- Pull the caliper off the disc, take care to guide the brake line out of the bracket and place the caliper on something so that the brake line isn’t stressed. I used a tub of paint and put a rag on top of it so that you don’t scratch the caliper. Some brake pad crap fell out of mine and scratched the paint on the caliper on one side
- With the old pads in place, use a rag to protect the caliper and use a G clamp to force the pistons back
- Use a screwdriver to lever the old pads out, no need to mess with the clips on the back of the caliper.
- Put some silicone based grease on the back of the new pads.
- Put the new pads in and installation is the reverse of taking them off.
Also the wear sensor fits on the other side of the Brembo pad (you’ll know what I mean when you fit it) so route it accordingly.
I tightened the 21mm bolts to 200nm. Pump the brake pedal to make sure it goes firm after installation.
I’ll do some instructions for the rears when I fit them, but you’ll need VCDS or something else to wind the parking brake back so it could be a non-starter for some people.
I have a BNIP, spare front wear sensor (Delphi branded) which I can sell cheap if anyone wants it. The design of the Delphi one seems better and more sturdy than the OEM one. Drop me a PM if interested.
Attached is a pic of the bolt with the special head on the front caliper. A 12 sided socket won’t get proper purchase on it and it will just round off
The new brake pads have been an improvement over the stock/OEM pads. They do squeak but it’s only occasionally and nowhere near as loud or frequent as the old ones. They feel better and the dust is less but they do still dust. I have slight clunk from the front pads when I go from reverse to drive and apply the brakes for the first time but I think this is an issue with not applying any grease where pads slide in the carrier so I’ll sort when I rotate my tyres. There is no issue with braking so not really concerned.
After the car was overfilled with oil from the dealer service, I decided to get a dipstick for the car. I got this one which is a copy of the one Audi use (T40178). https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGAwq3u. The quality of it is very good for price. You set the adjuster to 76 for the B9 RS4/RS5 (DECA) and 14 is max on the lower scale for us. It’s a shame you can’t leave it in the dipstick tube permanently.
The car was at the dealers today for some warranty stuff and during the free health check they do, they noticed the offside rear spring mount had split and replaced it under warranty for me. It’s worth checking yours as the B9 seems to suffer with this problem and my car has only just turned 4 years old. Must have happened in the last month as my MOT was only last month.
I had a look at the B10 A5 whilst I was there, was not impressed. The materials higher up the dash are ok but the lower ones are frankly crap for the price of the car. The new MMI looks really cluttered. I’m really not sure what that passenger screen is for, but if you get a car without the the tech pack, you get a poverty panel in it’s place. Also, the new pan roofs with the electric shading is a proper gimmick, the glass doesn’t even open! Will be keeping my B9.5 for the foreseeable…
After the car was overfilled with oil from the dealer service, I decided to get a dipstick for the car. I got this one which is a copy of the one Audi use (T40178). https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGAwq3u. The quality of it is very good for price. You set the adjuster to 76 for the B9 RS4/RS5 (DECA) and 14 is max on the lower scale for us. It’s a shame you can’t leave it in the dipstick tube permanently.
The car was at the dealers today for some warranty stuff and during the free health check they do, they noticed the offside rear spring mount had split and replaced it under warranty for me. It’s worth checking yours as the B9 seems to suffer with this problem and my car has only just turned 4 years old. Must have happened in the last month as my MOT was only last month.
I had a look at the B10 A5 whilst I was there, was not impressed. The materials higher up the dash are ok but the lower ones are frankly crap for the price of the car. The new MMI looks really cluttered. I’m really not sure what that passenger screen is for, but if you get a car without the the tech pack, you get a poverty panel in it’s place. Also, the new pan roofs with the electric shading is a proper gimmick, the glass doesn’t even open! Will be keeping my B9.5 for the foreseeable…
A new addition to the RS4. Some genuine Audi RS mats. I’m told these came with the pre-facelift but Audi removed them from the facelift models. Also, it seems you can only buy the front set with the RS logo because rear ones don’t exist. There are no RS4/RS5 specific logo mats (probably cost saving) as the floors are the same in the A4 and A5.
These were a used set from a breakers but came with the rear mats which were stitched black but the RS mats are stitched red.
So I bought some heavy duty thread (£5) and took it to a local seamstress who stitched the rear ones for me for £10 (bargain!). Not the best stitching but the material is thick and her machine was struggling, I’m happy with them.
I still need to clean the rear mats but the fronts came up well after cleaning with my carpet cleaner
These were a used set from a breakers but came with the rear mats which were stitched black but the RS mats are stitched red.
So I bought some heavy duty thread (£5) and took it to a local seamstress who stitched the rear ones for me for £10 (bargain!). Not the best stitching but the material is thick and her machine was struggling, I’m happy with them.
I still need to clean the rear mats but the fronts came up well after cleaning with my carpet cleaner
thanks here are the red stitched rear mats
Audi Soul (Black)/Crescendo Red 8W0864450EMUK
I've added the Individual and Efficiency Drive select modes. Individual is good as it behaves as the RS modes, but it retains this mode when you restart the car. I prefer the steering to be heavier which I could only previously set in the RS mode. Dynamic also did it but then the engine modes change to a sporty setting which isn't always needed.
I added Efficiency just because, doubt it will be used much but could be useful on a motorway cruising journey. I've only added the modes today so I'll be testing them out over the next few weeks.
The drive select modes can't be added with VCDS.
Before:
After:
I've also got Traffic Sign Recognition now. No beeps when you go over the limit like the newer cars have mandated, but you can set the symbol to flash if you go over the limit by up to 5mph. The front camera in the windscreen needs some parameters uploaded to it then it can be coded with VCDS. VCDS coding alone won't work.
I've got a couple more mods coming up with the car over the next few days/weeks...so much for not modding it
I added Efficiency just because, doubt it will be used much but could be useful on a motorway cruising journey. I've only added the modes today so I'll be testing them out over the next few weeks.
The drive select modes can't be added with VCDS.
Before:
After:
I've also got Traffic Sign Recognition now. No beeps when you go over the limit like the newer cars have mandated, but you can set the symbol to flash if you go over the limit by up to 5mph. The front camera in the windscreen needs some parameters uploaded to it then it can be coded with VCDS. VCDS coding alone won't work.
I've got a couple more mods coming up with the car over the next few days/weeks...so much for not modding it
Oooo, how on earth did you manage to add Individual. That is one thing I miss on the B9.5, the RS modes are no use to me. I may be coming up to Haydock end of Oct, would that be anywhere near you?
I got the car back yesterday from Audi after I pushed them to update the MMI. It's working much better now and all the CarPlay issues I had with it look to be solved. CarPlay connects within 10s (usually quicker), direction arrows/lanes (not the map) from Apple Maps show in the Virtual Cockpit, as does the call log on the phone menu. Also, you can get to the B&O equaliser settings from the volume slider now when using CarPlay. The MMI seems to boot up quicker too. I believe Android Auto behaves in the same way with the update.
The dealer won't update anything without a TPI so you need to quote TPI: 2077421/2. This updates the Telematics module (responsible for connections to and from the car) and an update to the MMI to 4398. I had to update my maps as they put a 2021 version on for some reason.
I haven't really used efficiency mode since I added it. It just makes the accelerator have some fake weight to it and it ruins the drive. Might be OK on the motorway when you're using cruise control but to actually drive it's rubbish.
The Individual mode has made the car more enjoyable for me. I have the steering in Dynamic, exhaust to Pronounced but the engine in Balanced (can just press the RS button if I need more poke). There are no settings for the sports diff with Individual like you get in RS mode.
The dealer won't update anything without a TPI so you need to quote TPI: 2077421/2. This updates the Telematics module (responsible for connections to and from the car) and an update to the MMI to 4398. I had to update my maps as they put a 2021 version on for some reason.
I haven't really used efficiency mode since I added it. It just makes the accelerator have some fake weight to it and it ruins the drive. Might be OK on the motorway when you're using cruise control but to actually drive it's rubbish.
The Individual mode has made the car more enjoyable for me. I have the steering in Dynamic, exhaust to Pronounced but the engine in Balanced (can just press the RS button if I need more poke). There are no settings for the sports diff with Individual like you get in RS mode.
Not sure what it does on the RS4 but on everything else VAG auto it lets the gearbox freewheel on the overrun. Don't use it often as it takes away all engine braking but sometimes I find it useful for some drives.
The comfort mode on the RS4 has the freewheeling function. I noticed it does it in individual too. It’s useful on the motorway but not much else
As I've made no secret of, I never really liked the black wheels on the RS4 as you lose all the design of the wheels. I got the wheels refurbed in a custom grey colour that the powder coater calls "noir metallic". It's not a massive deviation from black but you can now see the design of the wheels and the colour pops in the sun. I looked at a lighter Audi grey colour but it didn't really match with the accents on the car. This colour matches with the carbon on the skirts and front bumper.
In dull light you can see the wheel design (click pic to make bigger).
I spent this afternoon ceramic coating them (again!) with Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armor whilst they're fresh.
@s3mad_dude I tried to clear out the "brake dust" that had accumulated on the rear discs in the holes. Turns out it is not brake dust. The "holes" closest to the hub on the disc are actually dimples rather than a hole, so there is nothing to clear out of there.
Hopefully have another mod in a few weeks...
In dull light you can see the wheel design (click pic to make bigger).
I spent this afternoon ceramic coating them (again!) with Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armor whilst they're fresh.
@s3mad_dude I tried to clear out the "brake dust" that had accumulated on the rear discs in the holes. Turns out it is not brake dust. The "holes" closest to the hub on the disc are actually dimples rather than a hole, so there is nothing to clear out of there.
Hopefully have another mod in a few weeks...
I had the decal re-applied and baked under the lacquer. The wheels were fully stripped due to corrosion starting on the back of them.
Audi Sport Wheel Decals
Alloy wheel decals stickers for Audi cars. Choose your colour option.
www.brakecaliperdecals.co.uk
Great idea (giving the 59mm decals to the wheel refurbers for putting under the lacquer). I will definitely do this if I need to refurb my wheels at some point.
Car’s looking great, I too am not a fan of gloss black wheels. Anthracite sort of colour is as dark as I would go on a dark body colour like yours.
Keep up doing the mods!
Car’s looking great, I too am not a fan of gloss black wheels. Anthracite sort of colour is as dark as I would go on a dark body colour like yours.
Keep up doing the mods!
That must be a new thing, comfort on the RS3 and my other/previous stuff keeps engine braking. You only get the freewheel with a distinct 'eco' mode which the RS3 and previous RS cars never had.
I am with you on that, I'm also not a fan of factory diamond cut as it never lasts. Done the same with a couple of cars now, but these replacement labels weren't available when I had my wheels done. Might have to have a new set done
That must be a new thing, comfort on the RS3 and my other/previous stuff keeps engine braking. You only get the freewheel with a distinct 'eco' mode which the RS3 and previous RS cars never had.
I am with you on that, I'm also not a fan of factory diamond cut as it never lasts. Done the same with a couple of cars now, but these replacement labels weren't available when I had my wheels done. Might have to have a new set done
I think Comfort is the equivalent of Efficiency on the RS4 but without the weird throttle feeling. It's probably a way to hit emissions targets.
Agree with you on diamond cut wheels. Have you seen the new A5 S-Line wheels? The whole face is diamond cut, they will look awful once the "whiteworm" starts. They're a very boring design too
Sorted another annoyance with the RS4, the lack of flat bottom steering wheel. Always disliked the round, bus sized steering wheel. Also, because I'm a short a***, I have to have the seat quite high and the steering low, but then my legs keep snagging the wheel when getting in and out of the car (1st world problems).
This is actually my second attempt at this, I ordered the same wheel but without the grey band at the top, but bottled it when I realised the connections were different, but I just needed an adapter cable.
This is the original wheel - doesn't look very "RS" either:
This is the replacement one with Alcantara at the top and bottom (can you spot the manufacturing flaw?). I replaced the lower chrome part with real Carbon Fibre:
The new wheel needed some minor modification to allow the adapter harness to fit underneath the airbag. Other than that, it's plug and play.
Inside the original wheel, there is a "hand-off" module which is used for lane assist. The steering wheel has touch sensors all around the wheel and the replacement wheel didn't have space for this module or the wires to connect into it. It allows you to just touch the steering wheel instead of moving the wheel when it prompts you to put your hand on the wheel. My car doesn't have any form of lane assist so it was defunct in my case.
Feels better than the round one, looks miles better (IMO) and easier to get in and out of the car - still need to test the heated function.
This is actually my second attempt at this, I ordered the same wheel but without the grey band at the top, but bottled it when I realised the connections were different, but I just needed an adapter cable.
This is the original wheel - doesn't look very "RS" either:
This is the replacement one with Alcantara at the top and bottom (can you spot the manufacturing flaw?). I replaced the lower chrome part with real Carbon Fibre:
The new wheel needed some minor modification to allow the adapter harness to fit underneath the airbag. Other than that, it's plug and play.
Inside the original wheel, there is a "hand-off" module which is used for lane assist. The steering wheel has touch sensors all around the wheel and the replacement wheel didn't have space for this module or the wires to connect into it. It allows you to just touch the steering wheel instead of moving the wheel when it prompts you to put your hand on the wheel. My car doesn't have any form of lane assist so it was defunct in my case.
Feels better than the round one, looks miles better (IMO) and easier to get in and out of the car - still need to test the heated function.
I have retrofitted rear USB ports. These are "dumb" USB ports which are only used for charging.
This is the kit I bought: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.24.75081802QLtMMM
I had ordered 2x USB-C ports (as you can see on the listing pics) but got sent 1x USB-C and 1x USB-A even though they don't have an option for that
. I'm taking this up with the seller, but will probably just keep what's been sent. The USB port unit is a genuine VAG part. It's used in a Skoda.
It's very easy to fit - took me about 20 mins.
Move the front seats all the wat forward, then wedge a trim removal tool in the gap where the diagram shows the arrows (you might be able to pull it with your fingers), once the top is unclipped, pull the bottom off with your fingers (not much force was needed in my case). The assembly is sturdy so no danger of snapping it. Disconnect the 2 looms which go to the climate control panel, and one large connector to the 12v socket.
The 12v socket fascia unclips from the main assembly. The hardest part was removing the 12v Socket out of its original fascia. The clips are super tight, I used some plumbers pliers to get enough leverage to push the clips, in doing so, I have deformed the inner metal part of the socket so I need to sort that as its difficult to remove plugs from the socket.
You can get the USB fascia in glossy black, but where it is installed, I don't think it will fair well (will get kicked etc.) and my PPF applying skills are not good enough to wrap an awkward shape like that, so I opted for the standard finish. Some reviews said the colour was off, but mine matches quite well, looks OEM
Installation is the reverse of removal. Arrange the cables in the lower section of the aperture (below the horizontal bar in the pic) Or the fascia won't got back on. The loom included in the kit piggy backs off the 12v socket power.
I thought the USB ports would light up, but it turns out, the 12v socket doesn't light up and neither does the one in the front...some more Audi peasantry going on because the pre-facelift 12v sockets light up (they lit up in my S3 too)...cheapskates!
My Car:
Pre-facelift:
This is the kit I bought: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.24.75081802QLtMMM
I had ordered 2x USB-C ports (as you can see on the listing pics) but got sent 1x USB-C and 1x USB-A even though they don't have an option for that
. I'm taking this up with the seller, but will probably just keep what's been sent. The USB port unit is a genuine VAG part. It's used in a Skoda.It's very easy to fit - took me about 20 mins.
Move the front seats all the wat forward, then wedge a trim removal tool in the gap where the diagram shows the arrows (you might be able to pull it with your fingers), once the top is unclipped, pull the bottom off with your fingers (not much force was needed in my case). The assembly is sturdy so no danger of snapping it. Disconnect the 2 looms which go to the climate control panel, and one large connector to the 12v socket.
The 12v socket fascia unclips from the main assembly. The hardest part was removing the 12v Socket out of its original fascia. The clips are super tight, I used some plumbers pliers to get enough leverage to push the clips, in doing so, I have deformed the inner metal part of the socket so I need to sort that as its difficult to remove plugs from the socket.
You can get the USB fascia in glossy black, but where it is installed, I don't think it will fair well (will get kicked etc.) and my PPF applying skills are not good enough to wrap an awkward shape like that, so I opted for the standard finish. Some reviews said the colour was off, but mine matches quite well, looks OEM
Installation is the reverse of removal. Arrange the cables in the lower section of the aperture (below the horizontal bar in the pic) Or the fascia won't got back on. The loom included in the kit piggy backs off the 12v socket power.
I thought the USB ports would light up, but it turns out, the 12v socket doesn't light up and neither does the one in the front...some more Audi peasantry going on because the pre-facelift 12v sockets light up (they lit up in my S3 too)...cheapskates!
My Car:
Pre-facelift:
Awesome stuff, as per usual. In reality having a USB-A and USB-C is probably quite convenient, but the OCD in me prefers symmetry. What has the seller replied with?My facelift has two USB-C ports in the rear which are dumb and only provide charge. They do light up though but I don’t have a 12v socket on the same panel.
Yeah I wanted the symmetry, USB-A ports are slowly dying out and usually, USB-C provides better charging speeds. I could have put a USB charger in the 12v socket, but I've had radio interference issues with those and this mod wasn't much more expensive than buying a decent USB charger.
No reply from the seller yet. I wonder if the 2x USB-C port option he should have sent lights up...
Does your front 12v socket light up?