Dyu know, I might just do this. Already one of my DRL bulbs has stopped working today, I wish I’d seen that kit before I started mucking about like I have, lol
Sprint Blue DTM - Midas Owner Thread
- Thread starter midas
- Start date
Managed to complete a job I’d been trying to do for 6 weeks now, oil service. First time I’ve done one on these, so had to fathom out the oil filter housing. Not sure if I’m missing something, a tool maybe, but it states undo the drain cap off the housing, but then no oil came out…. Obviously when I removed the entire filter housing cap there was oil everywhere……awesome.
really really weird though, once I’d changed the oil and started back up again I couldn’t believe how quiet the engine sounded. This worries me somewhat…….as if the filter that was in had been in for some time and was not being effective…….yeah that worries me. But…..going to put this on the 6 month oil interval just like I did with my 1.8 TQS.
Also replaced the pollen filter whilst I was there. Plus, I found a decent used undertray the other week, as I noticed mine was mullered and held on with cable ties. Took everything off, and then noticed the undertray retaining bar was all bent out of shape. Honestly…I cannot wait to lift this car up a little. It’s all great it handling fantastic if on a track, but, it’s not on a track. And I’m so tired of clobbering the carbon splitter on speed bumps. Plus I can see now that the undertray and retaining bar have been damaged due to contacting something underneath.
Anyway….replacement undertray fitted with all new fixings, and I bent the bar best I could to the shape it used to be, but think I’ll be buying a new one of these.
Also…..found a replacement headliner the other day, with all the pillar trims as well, so got to go and pick that up.
Next jobs…..replace the vac pump, and replace the fuel pump tappet.
really really weird though, once I’d changed the oil and started back up again I couldn’t believe how quiet the engine sounded. This worries me somewhat…….as if the filter that was in had been in for some time and was not being effective…….yeah that worries me. But…..going to put this on the 6 month oil interval just like I did with my 1.8 TQS.
Also replaced the pollen filter whilst I was there. Plus, I found a decent used undertray the other week, as I noticed mine was mullered and held on with cable ties. Took everything off, and then noticed the undertray retaining bar was all bent out of shape. Honestly…I cannot wait to lift this car up a little. It’s all great it handling fantastic if on a track, but, it’s not on a track. And I’m so tired of clobbering the carbon splitter on speed bumps. Plus I can see now that the undertray and retaining bar have been damaged due to contacting something underneath.
Anyway….replacement undertray fitted with all new fixings, and I bent the bar best I could to the shape it used to be, but think I’ll be buying a new one of these.
Also…..found a replacement headliner the other day, with all the pillar trims as well, so got to go and pick that up.
Next jobs…..replace the vac pump, and replace the fuel pump tappet.
There is indeed a special tool to drain the oil filter housing.
it screws into the bottom of the housing and as it does it allows the oil to be drained out via a hose in a container, saves a lot of mess.
it screws into the bottom of the housing and as it does it allows the oil to be drained out via a hose in a container, saves a lot of mess.
Be careful with the EM kits as they can be problematic in the b7's, bulb out errors etc.
About the oil... depending on the mileage the engine has done... if it's over 150k miles do it a favour and go for fully synthetic 5w40... preferably the likes of big brands... why you ask? Simply for more protection on the moving parts and to minimise ware
I’ve gone for a 5w40 fully synth this time, it’s recommended by the oil supplier we deal with at work, which is Valvoline. But I’ll change it every 6 too. I just found it really odd how I seemed to be getting a lot of noise, like tappt top end noise. And with an oil service ‘considerably’ less noise. Which does worry me that little bit about the old filter being toast a while ago, and I’m hoping no significant top end wear.
Anyway, it’s driving nice and smoothly. Just need to change the broken vac pump and they’ll be even less noise.
So even these kits can give bulb out warning too? Jeez. Very temperamental with the bulb out warning on B7’s I see. Never had such issues. I’m still waiting in any case, can’t even get hold of EM Tuning, I take it they are on holiday or something.
Looks like I’ll be seeking out this tool in time for the next oil service.
These engines have a reputation for sounding like a bag of spanners with age and milage.
numerous parts can be the cause, below are a few more common ones.
Brake vacuum pump
fuel pump and tappet
cam chain tensioner
cam chain adjuster
cam chain
oil pump and sprocket
if one is really unlucky it can be several of those combined.
changing the oil and filter won't make the problems go away but can temporarily help.
yes but if you have no idea when the last time was the previous owner has changed the oil... the best thing to do is to do an engine flush followed by fresh oil and filter... than monitor the noises... if they get worse soon after fresh oil there are worn parts that need to be replaced it's as simple as that.
Agreed.
I allways check the service history and receipts to see what if anything has been done before I buy a used car or bike.
the service history is never to be relied on as gospel as it won't tell the whole story of a car's mechanical service life, nor can word of mouth, if in doubt assume it needs or will need replacing depending on milage unless there is proof if has been done.
Oil changes are the same, assume it needs doing from the start of ownership.
I allways check the service history and receipts to see what if anything has been done before I buy a used car or bike.
the service history is never to be relied on as gospel as it won't tell the whole story of a car's mechanical service life, nor can word of mouth, if in doubt assume it needs or will need replacing depending on milage unless there is proof if has been done.
Oil changes are the same, assume it needs doing from the start of ownership.
Oh yeah I whole heartedly agree with you. Which is why an oil change was on the cards when I got the car, just poor health has meant it’s taken me until now. The fuel pump is new and the tapper has been changed a few times, but I’m going to swap it out again so I know where I’m at. Personally I think the cam chain needs doing, which I’ll have one of my customers do. Timing belt has been done, but I’ve got a full auxiliary belt kit for it as I noticed the aux tensioner has a ridiculous amount of movement in it which is worse when the air con is active, so much so you can here it banging against its stop. So that will all be replaced.
Im finick, so it will take me a while to get it where I want it. You only have to have a look at my TQS thread to see I’m finicky.
Im that finicky I’ve just ordered a full Koni kit, as I can’t be doing with the horrendous ride quality anymore.
Im finick, so it will take me a while to get it where I want it. You only have to have a look at my TQS thread to see I’m finicky.
Im that finicky I’ve just ordered a full Koni kit, as I can’t be doing with the horrendous ride quality anymore.
If you are having the cam chain and tensioner replaced, which is very prudent on the EA113 engine, replace the cam adjuster aswell.
It's a bit more to spend but well worth doing.
They are prone to wear and rattling on higher milages engines, you get an annoying diesel type of rattle on idle and as they wear performance does drop.
I recently did all three on my old bus and it made a massive difference to the engine, performance is better now and the engine is so much quieter on idle, no rattles etc now.
A vcds scan will show up if the cam timing is out of phase due to wear etc as well.
It's a bit more to spend but well worth doing.
They are prone to wear and rattling on higher milages engines, you get an annoying diesel type of rattle on idle and as they wear performance does drop.
I recently did all three on my old bus and it made a massive difference to the engine, performance is better now and the engine is so much quieter on idle, no rattles etc now.
A vcds scan will show up if the cam timing is out of phase due to wear etc as well.
I was experiencing the occasional subtle backfire under hard acceleration, nothing drastic but it was becoming more of a regular occurrence.
Having checked the obvious things without success i started to look at cam timing a bit more carefully, add to that the rattle on idle made me opt to replace the cam adjuster too.
After all parts replaced vcds was reporting pretty well spot on spec and no more backfiring or rattles etc on idle or start up, almost civilised for a EA113 engine.
Having checked the obvious things without success i started to look at cam timing a bit more carefully, add to that the rattle on idle made me opt to replace the cam adjuster too.
After all parts replaced vcds was reporting pretty well spot on spec and no more backfiring or rattles etc on idle or start up, almost civilised for a EA113 engine.
I have one at work if you need borrow it give me a shout
Oil i use is genuine quantum 5W40
Cheers appreciate that. Are they expensive? I’m that guy who once I see a tool that needs to be used I’ll just get it and have it in the chest. Comes from years of doing jobs and not being able to complete them through not having the right tool.
They are not expensive, and a very basic design really.
Lots on the interwebby
Lots on the interwebby
I just use the one from our special tools room so not sure what they cost lol
Really does keep the oil filter change mess to a minimum.
Really does keep the oil filter change mess to a minimum.
Well…..figured I’d post some updates to the DTM. It’s been a Ermmm…… tumultuous year really since I got the DTM. Ended up in hospital with a suspected heart attack last July, which really set me back. Took me quite a while to get ,shelf back up to anything like what I’d call speed. Nervous about over exertion, nervous about getting heart rate up, nervous about doing anything on the car without somebody at home in case something happens. Really has an effect.
And then to top it off, in February, stress at work building since March last year, and I hit the wall. Advised that I needed to take time off or I was going to be back in hospital. So I took 4 weeks off unpaid to just completely chill out and basically get therapy.
arrived back at work, only to be thrown under a bus by a colleague. Jacked that job, and I now work at GSF, less stress, more time to do jobs on the car, things can only get better.
Anyway, I’ll post some update pics below, it’s coming along a little now, getting through my job list. Although……job list continues to grow,
And then to top it off, in February, stress at work building since March last year, and I hit the wall. Advised that I needed to take time off or I was going to be back in hospital. So I took 4 weeks off unpaid to just completely chill out and basically get therapy.
arrived back at work, only to be thrown under a bus by a colleague. Jacked that job, and I now work at GSF, less stress, more time to do jobs on the car, things can only get better.
Anyway, I’ll post some update pics below, it’s coming along a little now, getting through my job list. Although……job list continues to grow,
Something I did on the B5, and always definatly felt an improvement, I got hold of a barely used ECS Tuning intake. Plus, I had an AEM+ filter as well, much larger, and cleaner, plus not oiled. So I incorporated this. If I’m honest I do prefer the induction noise, not intrusive really, but sounds great at high revs. A friend has taken temp readings when it was hot on the turbo side, and filter side, and the double skin bulkhead does its job and reduces temps. Still considering some gold heat reflection ,arterial like I did on the B5, that worked a treat. This fitted snug to the bonnet, ensuring all air is coming through the grille as it should
Next issue for me…..ride height. I know the lower they are the better they look, but some close friends had actually suggested it looked ‘broken’ on the front end, and I was inclined to agree. Taking the in-laws for dinner, and grounding out entering the car park was the last straw really.
So enter a full Koni Kit with H&R springs included in the kit. As well as buying this kit, I got all new bump stops, all new protection sleeves, top bushes, and of course these will be going on with standard B7 spring platforms, and not the B5 platforms which from the front on the deck. Notice the image where one of the spring top cups had split due to a hard hit and being too low for UK roads.
I also got all brand new Delphi arms, all 4, and drop links.
To say it was like driving a new car on the front end was an understatement. What I wasn’t ready for, was the 7 hours it took to install all these items. Ridiculous, all because of the seized upper knuckle bolts. But at least it’s all done. Could only do the fronts at this point though.
So enter a full Koni Kit with H&R springs included in the kit. As well as buying this kit, I got all new bump stops, all new protection sleeves, top bushes, and of course these will be going on with standard B7 spring platforms, and not the B5 platforms which from the front on the deck. Notice the image where one of the spring top cups had split due to a hard hit and being too low for UK roads.
I also got all brand new Delphi arms, all 4, and drop links.
To say it was like driving a new car on the front end was an understatement. What I wasn’t ready for, was the 7 hours it took to install all these items. Ridiculous, all because of the seized upper knuckle bolts. But at least it’s all done. Could only do the fronts at this point though.
Had an opportunity to have my wheels refurbed, at the same place that did my B5 wheels. Also where Bradders has his wheels refurbed too it appears. They definatly do a good job.
Dropped the car with them, left it for couple days, and they sorted them out. Apparently it took a while due to the severity of the pitting on the spokes etc. Required some filling etc on the really bad parts. But they look so much better now. Really wanted this done, as I knew they were spoiling the look. And I also wanted the original colour.
Dropped the car with them, left it for couple days, and they sorted them out. Apparently it took a while due to the severity of the pitting on the spokes etc. Required some filling etc on the really bad parts. But they look so much better now. Really wanted this done, as I knew they were spoiling the look. And I also wanted the original colour.
Managed to get some wheel spacers as a Christmas gift from the wife too. I chose Forge as they did the widths I wanted. 11mm on the front, and 13mm on the rear. I just wanted the rear to fill the arches out more, lol. I couldn’t have used spacers with the previous ride height at the front.
Also managed to pick up a set of RS4 mats, which are closer if not the same, to the ones which the car came with. Also match the stitching in the seats, so these are much better.
So the time came to change the rear suspension out. Helped along by a shocker going bust on me on the drivers side rear.
id built up my parts list again for this job. I had the Koni Shocks and H&R Springs, but also got hold of spring rubber pads top and bottom, plus a 10mm spacer to go on top of the upper spring pad (OE part from Audi). I also got brand new upper top mounts for the shocks, plus bump stops and protection tubes for the struts.
The 10mm spacer, was to try and lift the rear end ever so slightly, so that there was some rake on the stance of the car. I like cars to have a slight nose down appearance, and I also know one of the main complaints with a B7 is the wheel arch gap offset between the front and the rear. So I was trying to counter act this also.
I mean, yes…..the shock of seeing the rear in the air when I took the pic outside the garage was an eye opener. But if in a month or so tie, f it’s still too high, I’ll take out the 10mm spacer.
I have to say, I was pretty downcast with all the corrosion at the rear of the B7. My older B5 was in honesty, in much better condition under the rear arches. We had some under seal in the garage, so I attacked it with that. I think in the near future, I will be getting some Lanoguard, and making a proper job of it.
id built up my parts list again for this job. I had the Koni Shocks and H&R Springs, but also got hold of spring rubber pads top and bottom, plus a 10mm spacer to go on top of the upper spring pad (OE part from Audi). I also got brand new upper top mounts for the shocks, plus bump stops and protection tubes for the struts.
The 10mm spacer, was to try and lift the rear end ever so slightly, so that there was some rake on the stance of the car. I like cars to have a slight nose down appearance, and I also know one of the main complaints with a B7 is the wheel arch gap offset between the front and the rear. So I was trying to counter act this also.
I mean, yes…..the shock of seeing the rear in the air when I took the pic outside the garage was an eye opener. But if in a month or so tie, f it’s still too high, I’ll take out the 10mm spacer.
I have to say, I was pretty downcast with all the corrosion at the rear of the B7. My older B5 was in honesty, in much better condition under the rear arches. We had some under seal in the garage, so I attacked it with that. I think in the near future, I will be getting some Lanoguard, and making a proper job of it.
Managed to find an ABS pump cover as well, I do like these, think they finish the engine bay off nicely. I also managed to order up the parts to low it to to mount to the inner wing and front panel. Only thing missing is the piece of angled steel with a captive nut, that attaches to the front panel so that the mounting parts can be positioned correctly. I’ll be getting a friend to manufacture one for me soon.
Went in for an Air Con reg as at a friends garage. Also had the Red RS4 spec coil packs installed, and a new rear caliper too. Annoying thing about the caliper seizing up, was that it was dragging on the disc, causing red hot metal shards to emanate from the rear wheel which then embedded themselves in my freshly painted wheels. Annoying. But now resolved.
Absolutely, I would as well but………..the brakes arnt staying.
I’ll elaborate shortly.
So, to help me along with the jobs list, I found this on the car park floor. Lovely.
So the front end off complete job list began. I’d saved a lot of things for this point.
- Timing Belt Kit replacement, and Water Pump
- Auxiliary Belt kit replacement
- Alternator freewheeling pulley replacement
- Snub Mount replacement
- Headlamp disassembly and new lense installation
- New headlamp brackets
- New condenser (as the old one bent when moving it out of the way)
- New Radiator (prime suspect in terms of the leak)
- New intercooler, as Im prepping for further upgrades.
- New grille assembly
- New headlamp washer pump, as these don’t appear to be working
And, whilst all this was off, I wanted to rub down and refinish the passenger wing lips. Bare metal, rust treated 3 times, zinc primed, top coated and lacquered. So that I could then fit the Genuine brand new Audi Mudflaps I’d located last year.
Plus, given the amount of corrosion I found underneath the arch stone guards, I’d got hold of a Lanoguard kit. So the front arch lips and rear arch lips were completely cleaned off, and the Lanoguard grease liberally applied. Then the Lanoguard spray was applied to all of the arch underneath, plus front and rear chassis rails.
Fairly sure, I also discovered that the timing belt tensioner, wasn’t correctly positioned. I messaged Bradders and he confirmed. So when I set the new one, I ensured it was set how advised. Makes you think though……
1st pic is the old one how I found it, 2nd pic is the new one after I’d set it.
So the front end off complete job list began. I’d saved a lot of things for this point.
- Timing Belt Kit replacement, and Water Pump
- Auxiliary Belt kit replacement
- Alternator freewheeling pulley replacement
- Snub Mount replacement
- Headlamp disassembly and new lense installation
- New headlamp brackets
- New condenser (as the old one bent when moving it out of the way)
- New Radiator (prime suspect in terms of the leak)
- New intercooler, as Im prepping for further upgrades.
- New grille assembly
- New headlamp washer pump, as these don’t appear to be working
And, whilst all this was off, I wanted to rub down and refinish the passenger wing lips. Bare metal, rust treated 3 times, zinc primed, top coated and lacquered. So that I could then fit the Genuine brand new Audi Mudflaps I’d located last year.
Plus, given the amount of corrosion I found underneath the arch stone guards, I’d got hold of a Lanoguard kit. So the front arch lips and rear arch lips were completely cleaned off, and the Lanoguard grease liberally applied. Then the Lanoguard spray was applied to all of the arch underneath, plus front and rear chassis rails.
Fairly sure, I also discovered that the timing belt tensioner, wasn’t correctly positioned. I messaged Bradders and he confirmed. So when I set the new one, I ensured it was set how advised. Makes you think though……
1st pic is the old one how I found it, 2nd pic is the new one after I’d set it.
So after all the belts and tensioners were replaced, I got all the radiator cores back on. And…..whilst looking more closely at the hoses etc, found out my leak wasn’t from the radiator, but was from the turbo coolant hose. Another suspect which Bradders put me onto as they are common. Now, as I definatly wasn’t taking the turbo off, just to replace a turbo coolant line, I have managed to ‘professionally bodge’ the hose with some hose clips, a tubing connector, and a length of silicone hose from another job. This will last until I actually get to taking the turbo off and installing a new hose.
An Airtec Audi B7 specific intercooler was the one I decided on. This comes with its own cross member, and I figured this was a whole lot easier than buying a Direnza intercooler, and then cutting everything about to make it fit.
What I did do, was use a vernier gauge to get some measurements from the old crossmember, and using the main vertical bolt locations as a datum point, I transferred the hole locations to the Airtec crossmember. Redrilled the holes, and riveted the bumper mounts to the cross member. I also riveted the horn brackets to the end of the cross member. Bit of wishful thinking asking the horns to fit behind the bumper now though.
What I did do, was use a vernier gauge to get some measurements from the old crossmember, and using the main vertical bolt locations as a datum point, I transferred the hole locations to the Airtec crossmember. Redrilled the holes, and riveted the bumper mounts to the cross member. I also riveted the horn brackets to the end of the cross member. Bit of wishful thinking asking the horns to fit behind the bumper now though.
I was amazed how much the snub mount was demolished. I did put an order in for a Powerflex item, but it seems most outlets haven’t got any of these in currently. So due to timeframe I ordered a standard one. Shocking difference though. Definatly feels a bit more sturdy now when changing gears.
With regards to the arch lips, they were literally just salvagable. Got my Dremel out, with some woolen wheel tools, and got all the loose corrosion off first. Then got the sanding tumblers out and took everything off so there was minimal rust left on the lips at all. Then gave 3 treatments of Kurust to the areas and left to cure. It was then a question of masking up, making sure that it wasn’t go to go all over everything. Managed to get hold of some premasked paper, with a soft-edge incorporated also. Bit of fiddling, but got the soft edge all round the exterior of the lip.
2 coats of Zinc primer, 2 coats of Blue, and a cost of lacque. followed by a full DA polish on the wing, and done, looked so much better.
I then got the Lanoguard out, warmed up the grease in a pan of boiling water, and applied to the inside of the lips, along the chassis rails and any weld joints. Then sprayed the Lanoguard solution all inside the arch, and all over the chassis rails and any parts of the subframe I could see. It totally stinks like sheepdip!lol So left it there and went for a shower. It needs to cure and harden anyway.
It might be rough, it might not be pretty. But until I can get to a bigger project of subframes off etc, then at least it shouldn’t be getting any worse.
2 coats of Zinc primer, 2 coats of Blue, and a cost of lacque. followed by a full DA polish on the wing, and done, looked so much better.
I then got the Lanoguard out, warmed up the grease in a pan of boiling water, and applied to the inside of the lips, along the chassis rails and any weld joints. Then sprayed the Lanoguard solution all inside the arch, and all over the chassis rails and any parts of the subframe I could see. It totally stinks like sheepdip!lol So left it there and went for a shower. It needs to cure and harden anyway.
It might be rough, it might not be pretty. But until I can get to a bigger project of subframes off etc, then at least it shouldn’t be getting any worse.
That is a pretty normal wear and tear condition for an OE bung; they are made of polyurethane foam and just disintegrate over time.