I'm picking up my new (to me) 2012 3-door S3 on Friday. I've got a few plans for it but for now it's Eibach Pro Kit front springs and 10 & 12mm spacers. I'd usually get my mechanic to do the springs, but I really want to learn how to do it myself and am somewhat confident I'd be able to. I've researched the process lots, making sure I have a list of all the right tools, torque settings, and have a good idea of it. How have other people found doing this themselves? (My only prior experience is fitting/ removing spacers, but I've got experience in carpentry and fencing so quite confident with tools etc). Obviously though, I don't want to end up with the car undriveable/ up on axle stands, unable to finish the job for some reason.
I was going to order the VAG kit of bolts in case any of the OE ones break (e.g. the strut bolt & nut, 3x body to top mount bolts, new nut for the top mount collar). The car is 53k with FSH but has never been lowered so I'd imagine these parts have never been changed.
I'm planning to set aside a whole day as I know this could take hours, particularly for a first timer on their own. Feel free to correct me, but the process I had in mind was:
1. Loosen wheel bolts, jack car up, place axle stand (not sure where to put it for this purpose though, surely placing an axle stand under the front jacking point would bend it inwards?). Wheel off, WD40 the **** out of strut/ knuckle/ bolts etc.
2. Remove droplink from strut
3. Remove strut pinch bolt
4. Spread strut
5. Remove 3x body to strut mount bolts (or is it better to leave them on till I've got the strut out of the knuckle?)
6. Tap down/ wiggle axle and strut till it comes out of knuckle
7. Not sure if I need to remove the 3x bolts on the underneath of the ball joint too? I'd heard on the S3 the shock is shorter so this isn't necessary?
7. Springs compressors on, 21mm pass-through socket and 7mm hex bit to remove spring. Can someone confirm the socket needed for this is a 21mm?
8. New springs on w/ compressors, make sure top mount markings are aligned to 'fin' on rear of strut.
9. Not sure if the new springs come with shorter bump stops, can I retain the longer OE ones?
10, Copper grease on bottom of strut, back in arch - Not sure if it's best to fit the top mount to the body at this point?
11. Jack up hub to get strut back into knuckle, copper grease and replace all bolts then torque to spec.
Would I also need to remove the stretch bolt from the axle and remove the drive shaft from the hub? I'd rather not if possible. I saw someone on Youtube using springs compressors on the shock/ spring whilst its still in the arch to save doing this. Good idea or no?
Thanks!
I was going to order the VAG kit of bolts in case any of the OE ones break (e.g. the strut bolt & nut, 3x body to top mount bolts, new nut for the top mount collar). The car is 53k with FSH but has never been lowered so I'd imagine these parts have never been changed.
I'm planning to set aside a whole day as I know this could take hours, particularly for a first timer on their own. Feel free to correct me, but the process I had in mind was:
1. Loosen wheel bolts, jack car up, place axle stand (not sure where to put it for this purpose though, surely placing an axle stand under the front jacking point would bend it inwards?). Wheel off, WD40 the **** out of strut/ knuckle/ bolts etc.
2. Remove droplink from strut
3. Remove strut pinch bolt
4. Spread strut
5. Remove 3x body to strut mount bolts (or is it better to leave them on till I've got the strut out of the knuckle?)
6. Tap down/ wiggle axle and strut till it comes out of knuckle
7. Not sure if I need to remove the 3x bolts on the underneath of the ball joint too? I'd heard on the S3 the shock is shorter so this isn't necessary?
7. Springs compressors on, 21mm pass-through socket and 7mm hex bit to remove spring. Can someone confirm the socket needed for this is a 21mm?
8. New springs on w/ compressors, make sure top mount markings are aligned to 'fin' on rear of strut.
9. Not sure if the new springs come with shorter bump stops, can I retain the longer OE ones?
10, Copper grease on bottom of strut, back in arch - Not sure if it's best to fit the top mount to the body at this point?
11. Jack up hub to get strut back into knuckle, copper grease and replace all bolts then torque to spec.
Would I also need to remove the stretch bolt from the axle and remove the drive shaft from the hub? I'd rather not if possible. I saw someone on Youtube using springs compressors on the shock/ spring whilst its still in the arch to save doing this. Good idea or no?
Thanks!
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