Finally started to sortout the car...

It came and i fitted it in in a normal time since audi pulled an un-audi like move... yes the bracket that needs shaving down is also in my car.. I went and checked the partscatalogue and all cars are fitted with that same part regardless of them being an auto or manual.... anyways... during the shaving with an angle grinder i had to switch disk to a cutting disk as the grinding was taking forever to remove 1 mm and I needed 4 mm to clear the old heatercore... And that is when the job took a turn for the worse... the cutting disk bounced on the little knick from the bracket and cut through a wiringloom, luckily i had all the tools to repair wiring looms so i just cursed a bit and continued to replace the heater core.... it went as expected, the stupid clamps took forever to actually seat properly and than close with their 2mm to short of a bolt ( if those bolts where 2mm longer those heater core clamps would go back on in a matter of seconds) after fiddling for another hour I could check if the lot wasn't leaking. But than i stopped myself as i had the cable repair to do and since i decided to work in the rain ( was wearing a rain suit so it was kinda doable in the elements) ... I called it a day and continued the next day ( it started getting dark anyway plus it started to rain heavier not a good thing with the drivers door wide open).

The day after i got my wiringloom repair tools and connectors out and started to pvc tape the wires that got slightly damaged on the isolation only... once i did that i managed to do 4 wires and than my body started to actup, i asked my neighbour if he was busy (i help him alot when his car is messed up and he is a lot younger and shorter than me) He asked what it looked like i showed him a picture and he came down immediately... 1 hour later all the broken wires were repaired, a full system vcds faultscan was done and not one fault found (except for the standard steeriing angle sensor p01826 which just means adaption).. nice now i could check if the heater core pipes weren't leaking... started the car and added a little bit of coolant... and no leaks... nice now i can close up... put all the panels back... cleaned my tools put them away and 1 hour later from that the car was producing a nice steady warm heat inside the interior... i did bleed the heater core. and it went nice and quick.

But today i re-bled the heatercore for good measure and used a seringe to make sure the heater return was completely air free by filling it up through the bleed hole in the return pipe. I drove it just now and 21 degrees feels like summertime. Whohoo it's back to nomal!
 
I just replaced the reverse light bulbs for LED ones that are canbus friendly... the lightoutput is so good you can see it during the daylight and the sun is out.
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here is the link from aliexpress
 
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so i replaced the PCV valve on the car easy job took 10 minutes since mine is a essentially a 2 part job valve is on the top of the engine, an oil catch and pipe are on the bottom...
replaced it and the car now puts out 1/2 the amount of smoke) the other half is caused by the thermostat as it's stuck ( not the thermostat itself but the electrical part of it) and since it means replacing the whole thing, I went online and saved it to my favourites... will get it next week. Not looking forward to that job though last year i replaced it and it took 4 hours because i refused to remove the intake.
 
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Replaced the car battery for a Bosh S5 (silvertop) battery, the one i removed ( nothing wrong with it) was a LION battery the cheapest one you can get from ECP, it's been on the car since i bought it, but i noticed that when i listen to bassy music it would weaken. granted those batteries in my experience only last a year... so it did well... but now the music sounds better simply because the replaement has a bit more power and holds a charge better.
 
Removed the thermostat to check the inside and the electrical side of it... well both were in very good condition, i cleaned it with an electrical cleaner and put it back on... I also cleaned the cable connector for it and now the thermostat works properly again... saves me from buying it again. But i couldn't find a reason for it to actup other than maybe there was some resistance on the electrical part. PS this wasn't being picked up by VCDS at all just noticed that the engine temp would stay under 90 degrees on the dash.
 
and the thermostat is now acting up again... that's it i ordered a new one, this isn't the cable it's the electrical part on it. the Vag concern knows about it as I asked an audi mechanic about it and in his exact words: "the themostat on both the 1.8t and 2.0 NA fsi engines are rubbish, either the actual thermostat goes or the electrical part stops working.. in both cases the car will not show the right temperature to the dash and it has nothing to do with the wiring, it's just a well known problem with the thermostats as used on these early 113EA engines, just replace it. oww there are no brands on the aftermarket that are better the cheapest brand or the most expensive one they all have the same problem as they are all made the same way from the same materials."

So yeah i just got the cheapest one i could find and ordered 2 so i have a spare for when it happens again.
 
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Charlie Farley said:
Always something to fix.:frown new:
Click to expand...
Jup, it's starting to get on my nerves, but to be fair, the car is 20 years old. I did replace the thermostat before. But as I got told it is normal for them to last about a year or 2 at max, so best not to give myself a headache and just replace it.
 
Recieved the part yesterday so after the car has cooled down (had to go out this morning), I'll go and replace the thermostat... hope to do it quicker this time with less to remove than the first time around.So within an hour or so I'll go and drop the coolant, and start the annoying task of replacing the thermostat.
 
Did the job took my time and this time it went a lot quicker, taking me 3 hours in total to do the complete job from start to finish, including taking my tools out and putting them away again.

Went way easier since I knew exactly what to do. I could have done it quicker but the coolant was still on the hot side when I dropped it. So I waited another 45 minutes to let things drip out and to let the engine cool down a bit more.

Anyway, the dash shows the coolant temperature again, which is the whole reason why I replaced it in the first place.
 
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had a little coolant leak for a while now but i couldn't find it, so in the last week i have been topping up the coolant, until 2 days ago when i noticed that whatever i put in the bottle would come straight out. so i pulled the nbottom engine cover just to find that the bottom pipe on the thermostat had come off... the securing clamp was open so the last time i replaced it i must have forgotten to push the clamp down... ugh such a rooky mistake anyways my bad, pushed it back on and made sure it stayed put once the clamp was securing it. I filled the coolant back up and no more leaks, went to start the car it didn't want to start at first, had the g28 error 16706 popup, engine speedsensor fault, preventing the car from starting.... right remove coolant bottle clean the connector and it started... took it for a spin no more leaks car drove fine but died during driving for a second than it caught itself again... uhm drove home parked the car scanned it and yes the g28 16706 faultcode came up again... pulled the coolant bottle again cleaned the sensor connector again this time car wouldn't start not even after leaving it to cooldown... oke time for a new sensor, nobody had one in stock.... in my town, 5 towns away yes but didn't have the time to get there in time so i ordered it in for nextday pickup at my local store (GSF was the only one that had it in stock for next day pickup).

anyway i got it and i went to replace it, i could see the sensor but not the bolt... and i couldn't even touch it as it was that far back... kept looking at how to remove it: than i found the easiest way of doing it: firstly remove the coolant bottle and move it to sit ontop of the intake, than remove the rear intake support ( the one closest to the firewall) loosen the top first than remove the bottom bolt. Than move it out of the way ( you can actually turn it 90 degrees so it stays horizontal as there are 2 pipes connected to cable ties that swiffels) than from the side of the gearbox stick your arm in and use a 1/4 or 3/8 deep socket on a small ratchet. in about 3 minutes the thng is out, and now cut the old cable and pull it out than remove the grey connector from it's holder and pull the bottom partout. Now you can route the new sensors cable in the same location, no need to put it under the cable ties as it stays put than pop it in place and tighten the bolt down with 10nm ( just turn the socket by hand until it stops than give it a 45 degree turn twice). and you are done with the sensor and it's connector (if you've popped it back in it's holder)...

now to finish off:
-put the bottom bolt in of the intake support ( make sure the top is pushed back through the hole of the intake for it)
-put the top bolt back on the intake support and tighten it until the rubber starts moving, that means it's tight enough
-put the coolant bottle back in it's place
-put bottom engine cover back on
-put the car on it's wheels
-check coolant level top up if needs be

car starts again without any faultcodes in the engine module, and runs better than it has in a while (but i don't do long trips all of them are local at the moment)

Than today i went to wash the pollen dust of the car at a jetwash boot, drove home and dried the car off to prevent the bodywork from having a load of watermarks. so job is jobbed and the car sits pretty again.
 
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Well I did buy a complete OEM exhaust from a 2.0 tfsi but the problem is the middle box doesn't fit, and probably the rears won't either... since mine has a bigger fueltank i that's in the way. also the middle silencer somehow won't just line up as there is a weird s- bend going from it so it hits the bottom of the floor rather than sit in it's place. I ended up patching my OEM single rear muffler exhaust which involved, welding, sheet metal, chicken wire, metal putty and metal bondo. now if i had taken more time i would've made the lot smooth and sprayed it black but i couldn't be bothered.

I also had to replace the front pipes exhaust sleeve under the car as the bolts to it where completely rounded off ( they were also a rusty mess) but 5 minutes with an angle grinder and the lot was off...

For someone needing a good state quattro exhaust... DM me, i bought it from @Charlie Farley and it's in very good condition, it's used but has some surface rust on the main pipes... the boxes are as good as rust free.

That all said i'll probably endup with a custom made SS twin exhaust as that is what i want.
 
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Well, yesterday, I had to use some exhaust paste around the sleeve clamp as it was slightly letting some gasses pass through. Car is now finally quiet and feels so much more upper-class than with it making all sorts of exhaust noises.
 
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