BRD 2.0 TDI DPF EGR Removal

[faby01]

hi, i just noticed myself, some maps makes no sense, and it's because this number

If this number in PPD MAPS, when you are creating the XDF file is not the same as the one of your ECU OBD READ, some maps will just make no sense, and would look like this.

 

[tr7]

Yes, good to know I'm not going mad. It doesn't make sense

What do you think the issue is?

a) the XDF isnt the right one for my ECU?
b) ECU read isn't right?

May be a simple fix, but this is partly why I'd be tempted to buy an MPPS and follow the same process you have successfully done already

 

[faby01]

the xdf is not right for your ecu file

 

[tr7]

That's a shame as my ECU has the same part number as yours from also a BRD car -

ECU: 03G 906 018 AQ

Know of any good sources online for XDF's?
Or is there anyone or service to generate them you know of?

 

[cmal1001]

I'd definitely recommend not doing what this chap has done with the coolant pipes though. Not only has he just looped it, leaving in loads of unnecessary pipework that looks ugly and basically sits up against the hot side of the turbo, but he's put a 90 degree joiner in which will reduce flow significantly

View attachment 257173

If you do it properly, you'd never even know a pipe went there in the first place, like mine

Do you have any guide on this? I am looking to fit the darkside EGR kit and i thought the only way to leave the coolant pipework intact would be loop it. Surely the coolant loops on itself inside the EGR cooler anyways? So i wouldn't have thought it would make a difference.

Also any idea how to get the damn EGR pipe off? I hear there are two screws and a bracket behind the engine... how would one get their nimble fingers in there?

Cheers!

 

[faby01]

the easiest way to remove the pipe, it's to remove the tandem pump and the coolant flange, few screws and it will make your life to much easier, also one of the egr pipe it's the same as the coolant flange, i mean it's a long bolt holding the pipe and the coolant flange at the same time. also i think, but i don't remember for sure, there is a bolt holding the egr pipe and the turbo oil line together. You will lose some coolant if you remove the flange, but trust me it's very easy with tandem pump and flange removed.

 

[faby01]

 

[cmal1001]

the easiest way to remove the pipe, it's to remove the tandem pump and the coolant flange, few screws and it will make your life to much easier, also one of the egr pipe it's the same as the coolant flange, i mean it's a long bolt holding the pipe and the coolant flange at the same time. also i think, but i don't remember for sure, there is a bolt holding the egr pipe and the turbo oil line together. You will lose some coolant if you remove the flange, but trust me it's very easy with tandem pump and flange removed.

thanks for that! are there any gaskets to be replaced on the tandem pump?

 

[faby01]

there is a big metal gasket behind the pump, if it leaks replace it, if it doesnt, keep it, i didn't replace on mine

 

[58SB]

I'd definitely recommend not doing what this chap has done with the coolant pipes though. Not only has he just looped it, leaving in loads of unnecessary pipework that looks ugly and basically sits up against the hot side of the turbo, but he's put a 90 degree joiner in which will reduce flow significantly

View attachment 257173

If you do it properly, you'd never even know a pipe went there in the first place, like mine

Hi, I'm in the middle of doing egr and cooler delete.
I can't figure out what have you done with your coolant pipes and I want to do it that way too.
Would you be able to explain for a simple person like me how it's done? Only thing I can come up is to loop longer pipe back where the shorter one came from.

 

[markthenewt]

This is the way I went with mine, and couldn't be happier with the results.

Darkside EGR delete kit:

Darkside 1.9 8v PD105 & 2.0 16v TDI PD, PPD and CR EGR Delete / Race Pipe

This kit replaces the EGR Valve and fits neatly between the Anti Shudder Valve and Inlet Manifold. Retaining the ASV means the engine still remains smooth when switching off the ignition, Here at Darkside Developments we only own and work with TDIs, so you can be assured that you are dealing...

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

This kit allows you to remove the entire EGR system, including the cooler. It frees up so much space (as you can see below), and makes the exhaust side of the engine bay much more open and easier to work on. You can also remove all the associated EGR vacuum hoses to tidy things up even further, as I did. It's up to you whether you bridge the EGR cooler coolant pipes, or do away with one of the pipes altogether (this is what I did, the pipework doesn't need to be anywhere near as long once cooler is gone).

View attachment 257166
View attachment 257167

Darkside BKD intake manifold conversion kit (deletes the swirl flaps)

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit (Removes Swirl Flaps)

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

The swirl flaps are a known annoyance on the intake manifolds for these engines, so much better off deleting the system altogether, also improves airflow. Much like the EGR delete, you are then able to remove the vacuum supply for the flaps too, further tidying the engine bay.

ECU software
Final step is to remove the EGR (and in your case DPF) systems from the ECU software. This can be done with, or without modifications to the fuelling tables, depending on whether you are after more power/torque, or simply want the ECU to be happy with its new (and reduced!) hardware setup. I personally just had the EGR disabled, and left the power/torque stock. Depending on your technical ability, you can buy ECU flashers that will read/write the EEPROM of your ECU, so all you'd need to do would be to read your ECU, send it to a tuner and have them remove the EGR and DPF sections, then they will send it back and you'd flash it back to your car. This tends to save some money, as you no longer need to bring your car to their premises.

Observations and afterthoughts
After doing the above on my car, the difference it made to the engine was massive. Significantly smoother idling, cleaner power delivery, zero smoke, more responsive, and a good improvement in fuel economy as well. The engine does take a little longer to warm up in the absence of the EGR cooler (which is essentially an exhaust/coolant heat exchanger), but nothing significant at all. The engine oil also now actually stays clean, rather than turning black with carbon almost immediately after an oil change (as it did pre-delete).

Hope that helps!

Hi mate, just doing the Egr and cooler delete myself. BRD 170. What did you do with the vac line that goes onto the cooler?

Thanks.

 

[markthenewt]

Hi, i have a 2.0 tdi brd aswell, the dpf can be removed from above, but i was struggling to get it off without cutting the bolt on the manifold
(this one)View attachment 257898

Also, i removed the EGR, the EGR COOLER, and the EGR pipe behind the engine (which is a pain in the ***)
I simplified the vacuum lines ( now vacuum it's coming from the pump, one way valve, T to cam cover, to n75 and then to turbo. ) that's all the vacuum.
I removed all the solenoids that works with the egr egr cooler intake flaps, and i made a little braket to hold the n75.
If you want to remove the manifold flaps, you can simply disconnect the vacuum line, and the actuator will keep them open everytime, and you don't need to worry about breaking the caps, they are made from metal in the BRD manifold.

I also disable all the errors from the sensors removed, so no CEL or anything.

If somebody want help with turning off errors, from dpf egr or other sensors, i can help make another post. Im using a cheap MPPS V16 also.

Hi mate. I have just done the EGR and cooler delete on my BRD 170.

My manifold has the flaps but I have left the vacuum line to the actuator on the side of it connected, Should I blank that off, with a screw?

What is the benefit of the flaps being open all the time? Will these even still operate with the EGR valve gone?

Also do you have a diagram please of how you have simplified the vacuum lines.

I have noticed straight away with mine it is more responsive and you can hear the turbo whistling a lot more too.

 

[tr7]

Leave the flaps open and just plug the vacuum line.

People 'upgrade' to the inlet manifold from a BKD engine because it has no swirl flaps

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit (Removes Swirl Flaps)

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

So it's not only considered and upgrade.

It also does away with the chance of the swirl flaps getting clogged like this

After cleaning it felt like the car had been remapped


Since the above and originally posting this I've done a full DPF delete on two cars myself

I'll post up some more photos of walking through that later

 

[markthenewt]

Leave the flaps open and just plug the vacuum line.

People 'upgrade' to the inlet manifold from a BKD engine because it has no swirl flaps

View attachment 278918

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit (Removes Swirl Flaps)

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

So it's not only considered and upgrade.

It also does away with the chance of the swirl flaps getting clogged like this

View attachment 278919
View attachment 278920
View attachment 278921
View attachment 278922
View attachment 278923
View attachment 278924

After cleaning it felt like the car had been remapped


Since the above and originally posting this I've done a full DPF delete on two cars myself

I'll post up some more photos of walking through that later

Yeah I was going to get a BKD

Leave the flaps open and just plug the vacuum line.

People 'upgrade' to the inlet manifold from a BKD engine because it has no swirl flaps

View attachment 278918

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit (Removes Swirl Flaps)

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

So it's not only considered and upgrade.

It also does away with the chance of the swirl flaps getting clogged like this

View attachment 278919
View attachment 278920
View attachment 278921
View attachment 278922
View attachment 278923
View attachment 278924

After cleaning it felt like the car had been remapped


Since the above and originally posting this I've done a full DPF delete on two cars myself

I'll post up some more photos of walking through that later

Yes I was going to get a BKD manifold but if they stay open with the vacuum line disconnected then that's as good as. Mine has the metal flaps (BRD) and I've just cleaned my manifold out. It was really bad and I've put a darkside Delete on. Also have the delete plate where the cooler pipe was connected. I already have the dpf deleted.

Here's some pics of my bad manifold and some of what came out of it. No wonder she was smoking her head off last week.

 

[B7Tourer]

Mine's rolling coal now quite a bit if I floor it; though it runs really smooth - I can see it most, as is normal, at night in the lights of cars behind; tailpipes go black again 2 or 3 days after a valet too. It's definitely due for an EGR clean-out at least. No swirl flaps on the 140 TDIs, fortunately (and thankfully no DPF neither). Although I've been resistant, I think it's time for one of them Darkside Developments deletes. Did you leave the cooler in place, Mark, or strip that out too?

 

[markthenewt]

If you have never cleaned the inlet manifold out before then it's definitely due a clean. And yes I deleted the cooler too. Mine was doing the same, if I booted it at night I could see smoke but not loads. I haven't booted it hard since doing the Egr and cooler delete so not sure if its improved or not but I will let you know.

I didn't want to cut the cooler pipes down to hide them because if later down the line and cars are inspected more at mot time then I can always put the cooler back on. I just bought a racing lines brand 180 degree pipe.

To make it fit without it kinking the original pipes I had to cut a small piece of the bottom cooler hose down, but I have kept the cut off piece so It will be easy to add a joiner to put the cut piece of pipe back on with a joiner if I have to in the future.

I just need to make s bracket for the pipe as I have just cable tied it up for now lol.

 

[B7Tourer]

Can you leave the cooler in place, with this delete, and just blank it off, in case, as you say, you want to revert back? And yes I meant to add, I want to have the manifold cleaned out too, that's never been done in my ownership.

 

[markthenewt]

You will need a new inlet manifold gasket if you clean it out just to be safe. I got an aftermarket one for £15. Info I could find on torquing the bolts back up is 10nm for connecting the inlet manifold back to the block.

Yes you can leave the cooler in place if you want to. It just won't be doing anything. The dark side kit comes with a blanking plate.

 

[B7Tourer]

Mine's rolling coal now quite a bit if I floor it; though it runs really smooth - I can see it most, as is normal, at night in the lights of cars behind; tailpipes go black again 2 or 3 days after a valet too. It's definitely due for an EGR clean-out at least.

Since this thread I've been taking more active notice of smoke in the rear view. It's not as bad as I thought. Just a blast in third is where I notice it and only really at night; which is pretty good all told; I'm still probably going to take this route; definitely a clean out and de-carbon of the inlet manifold and EGR, whatever. I've mostly only used V-power diesel fuel until recently when for economies' sake I changed to ordinary diesel. It's been fine on that but going back to V-power I've noticed it much smoother again, and it definitely is getting a bit more MPG too. I've always changed the fuel filter more than regular too. I was behind a 320D Beemer yesterday, similar age to my Audi; good condition, that was smoking very bad, and she pulled into the next pump at the garage; so I told her so; which she was totally unaware of. She said it had just been serviced, I said it probably needs a good clean out too; you've put the subject on my mind now Mark lol.

 

[Matt275]

Wow those flaps were nasty. I was in there a little while ago whilst replacing the BRD swirl flap diaphragm as mine had a hole in it. The trouble with cleaning out the manifold it it's shape. Fine from the flap end to clean but the main chamber part is awkward to get anything into to scrape off the crud. My fear was leaving a loose chunk ready to fly into my inlet valves at any given moment.
I was going to soak mine overnight but time didn't allow in the end. I'd say it was average cruddy rather than terrible,
Replacing that diaphragm made a big difference to bottom end....not directly turbo related I know, but the vacuum leak must've been playing a part. I didn't get any code though.
My plan next spring or summer will be to get the inlet manifold off again and soak overnight and jet wash rinse, I went to a bodyshop who kindly gave me an empty gun thinners can, big can. I could then soak overnight in petrol? Not sure what's best to soak it in.

 

[B7Tourer]

Wow those flaps were nasty. I was in there a little while ago whilst replacing the BRD swirl flap diaphragm as mine had a hole in it. The trouble with cleaning out the manifold it it's shape. Fine from the flap end to clean but the main chamber part is awkward to get anything into to scrape off the crud. My fear was leaving a loose chunk ready to fly into my inlet valves at any given moment.
I was going to soak mine overnight but time didn't allow in the end. I'd say it was average cruddy rather than terrible,

If the inlet manifold is metal, as opposed to plastic (some of them were), then a lot of people simply burn the crud off first before soaking in fuel or cleaner, Matt. I believe you can also fit the metal inlet manifold form the 140TDIs, that have no swirl flaps too, but I'm not fully sure of that.

 

[Matt275]

If the inlet manifold is metal, as opposed to plastic (some of them were), then a lot of people simply burn the crud off first before soaking in fuel or cleaner, Matt. I believe you can also fit the metal inlet manifold form the 140TDIs, that have no swirl flaps too, but I'm not fully sure of that.

Yes it's an ally inlet on BRD.
Yep, Darkside do a BKD inlet that doesn't have flaps and has been hydro-blasted clean. Fit and block off the actuator vacuum line.
It's a future consideration for me.

 

[markthenewt]

Yeah BKD is the one you want if you don't want the flaps. Cleaning wise... Take manifold off and Mr muscle oven cleaner in it for as long as possible then jet wash it out. I didn't do that though, I just cleaned it and brushed it away as best I could with brake cleaner.

I'm going to buy a BKD one myself at some point.

B7 tourer, I mentioned about the torque specs for the inlet manifold is 10nm. That is wrong, it's actually 22nm. 10nm is for the bolt on the EGR to manifold.

I only done my manifold bolts up to 10nm so I need to get those tightened to 22nm tomorrow.

Car runs a lot smoother now but I aint getting the same mpg, it's less and can't work out why as what I've read after doing EGR and cooler delete with cleaning the inlet manifold it should have improved. The only thing I can think of is because I haven't done the inlet manifold bolts up tight enough and that is affecting the mpg.

Will update once I've done it.

 

[B7Tourer]

Car runs a lot smoother now but I aint getting the same mpg, it's less and can't work out why as what I've read after doing EGR and cooler delete with cleaning the inlet manifold it should have improved. The only thing I can think of is because I haven't done the inlet manifold bolts up tight enough and that is affecting the mpg.

I haven't read through the full thread, but did you get the car properly re-mapped, Mark, after the EGR delete, not just the EML light on, taken out? I'm not familiar with deletes, but I would assume that could be required too? You could be right though re torque settings.

 

[Matt275]

I usually test for air intake leaks (maybe not the best way) but with a very fine mist from my Wurth brake cleaner pump sprayer.
You'd hear the RPM increase a fair bit if it was sucking it in.

Just a small amount and never anywhere near the hot side obviously.