BRD 2.0 TDI DPF EGR Removal

[tr7]

Ok so the time has come.

I already wanted to remove the EGR after having the pleasure of removing and cleaning the inlet manifold which was absolutely coked in crap.
And now the DPF has raised its head. Light came on but drove fine, then next time drove about a week later car in limp mode

I do super short journeys now with WFH and am not changing my car.

So I want to do two at once, EGR & DPF but don't see places offering both.

I've got time to organise, and I don't need it done right away. Looking to layout what exactly needs done and how best to have it done/do it myself


Whats the advice from other TDI owners that have done so?

2008 2.0 TDI BRD

 

[tr7]

Ha, literally had those two links/windows open

 

[tr7]

Yeh don't think I'm up for posting ECUs. Seems insanely high risk.

I've a KESS so one option is I just need the file modified. I have looked at the map before on WINOLS but never went further.
The other option is price dependent might just get it remapped and coded out at the same time. Something I'll have to investigate locally

 

[tr7]

Has anyone removed a DPF themselves? Seems like the driveshaft has to come out to get it removed from underneath?

 

[tr7]

Yeh it's no joke. I flashed a car once and the fans just kicked on a stayed on a 100% until it was mapped back. So I am tempted to just go ahead with a remap and get the DPF and EGR mapped out at the same time

 

[Fully]

West Yorkshire Tuning will remap, gut DPF and egr eliminate for a price.
Obviously depends where you're located.
Think DPF gutting was £300 when i asked him.

 

[tr7]

West Yorkshire Tuning will remap, gut DPF and egr eliminate for a price.
Obviously depends where you're located.
Think DPF gutting was £300 when i asked him.

Thanks buddy but I'm across the water. Would be tempted to drop it down to Darkside if I was in England

 

[tr7]

Ok, does any one know if all the B7 DPF's are the same?

Looking at few videos of DPF removal and I really don't think they even need cut open.

I think if you take your time you could beat/crush all the material from either end and remove it all without any cutting or welding at all.

(Which would be perfect from a Visual Inspection standpoint)


This one "looks" like mine. The price of them varies of them massively online. But I would seriously consider buying a new (cheap) one to give to mechanic to simply swap. (So I would retain my factory part if needed).

 

[tr7]

This video is a good example

a) how it's usually done
b) those welds would give me nightmares
c) it can be broken up into small enough chunks I think it could all be removed without any cutting

 

[tr7]

Thanks Sam, great info and also thank you very much for the pm with

I've got time so I may stick it up on stands here at home and have a look myself.

I really want it done without cutting or welding the DPF and I can do that taking my time, while a mechanic will be less inclined to do so

 

[tr7]

Also decided to have a look at the map and do some research on coding it out myself with WINOLS

Few images if some of you are interested

There are dozens of these on each car, many very similar. But these are the larger maps worth showing. (Some are only 3x3 or 5x5)

It's interesting but don't think I'm going to pull the trigger and modify it myself yet without more info or guidance.

If it was a less important car to me I would definitely do it. But doing it from self research on something that would be painful to correct isn't worth the risk to me.

But I have been searching online for another cheap car just to test on, ha. Maybe after doing a few trial changes to another car I would, but not my own right away.

Which is a shame, as it's all there to do it. But too much uncertainty and risk at this point. nothing is labelled and you have to recognise what each of these maps are, and not brick your ECU doing many trail and error changes which would be highly likely.

Anyway, thought I'd post as I found it super fascinating

 

[B7Tourer]

Interesting thread fellas. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the difference between blanking off the EGR and removing it entirely. I mean difference in the sense of do they both achieve the same end result? If so from an MOT pov wouldn't the former be the better route?

 

[Gazwould]

Egr's their gaskets etc can fail and drip oil.

For MOT only an issue if its visible.

 

[B7Tourer]

Egr's their gaskets etc can fail and drip oil.

For MOT only an issue if its visible.

But otherwise same lower smoke levels?

 

[tr7]

"Blanking Off" is simply replacing the Gaskets with Solid plates. And Leaving the EGR system in place as it was otherwise.

Removing EGR is using Solid "Blanking" Plates and removing the System from the car. (EGR Cooler and Valve)



Blanking Off with leave the engine bay visually identical.

Removal will be very obvious the car has been modified

Same result otherwise

 

[tr7]

Hey bud, no change. Waiting on availability of mechanic who while I spoke to me he himself suggested that he could do it without cuts or welds. So think I want to wait to use him as sounds like careful fella and will do it well. It's not actually that complicated, it's just not easy to access/remove the exhaust/dpf itself

Will definitely post an update as and when it comes. But hopefully, visually there will be nothing to show. As it will be complete seamless and really a stealth job

 

[tr7]

Btw, if anyone reading this has experience with WINOLS and or tuning and would like help with some guidance I think it would be a very cool process to (somewhat) document on the forum

Tuning is definitely going to be done at some point, but simply modifying the DPF map would be interesting and educational I think

 

[faby01]

Hi, i have a 2.0 tdi brd aswell, the dpf can be removed from above, but i was struggling to get it off without cutting the bolt on the manifold
(this one)

Also, i removed the EGR, the EGR COOLER, and the EGR pipe behind the engine (which is a pain in the ***)
I simplified the vacuum lines ( now vacuum it's coming from the pump, one way valve, T to cam cover, to n75 and then to turbo. ) that's all the vacuum.
I removed all the solenoids that works with the egr egr cooler intake flaps, and i made a little braket to hold the n75.
If you want to remove the manifold flaps, you can simply disconnect the vacuum line, and the actuator will keep them open everytime, and you don't need to worry about breaking the caps, they are made from metal in the BRD manifold.

I also disable all the errors from the sensors removed, so no CEL or anything.

If somebody want help with turning off errors, from dpf egr or other sensors, i can help make another post. Im using a cheap MPPS V16 also.

 

[tr7]

Hi, i have a 2.0 tdi brd aswell, the dpf can be removed from above, but i was struggling to get it off without cutting the bolt on the manifold
(this one)View attachment 257898

Also, i removed the EGR, the EGR COOLER, and the EGR pipe behind the engine (which is a pain in the ***)
I simplified the vacuum lines ( now vacuum it's coming from the pump, one way valve, T to cam cover, to n75 and then to turbo. ) that's all the vacuum.
I removed all the solenoids that works with the egr egr cooler intake flaps, and i made a little braket to hold the n75.
If you want to remove the manifold flaps, you can simply disconnect the vacuum line, and the actuator will keep them open everytime, and you don't need to worry about breaking the caps, they are made from metal in the BRD manifold.

I also disable all the errors from the sensors removed, so no CEL or anything.

If somebody want help with turning off errors, from dpf egr or other sensors, i can help make another post. Im using a cheap MPPS V16 also.

Hi faby,

That would be super useful. I'm using a cheap KESS to read and write the ECU. What did you use to modify the Map file?
Very interested to hear your experience with that

 

[faby01]

Hi, first of all, the pd170 has a siemens ecu, which you will need this program http://jazdw.net/ppd-maps called PPD maps.
It looks like this:

then you will need a BDM file from your ecu (a BDM file means the entire ECU file, not only the partial map which you can get by reading from OBD port) you can find one on the internet, with the same code as your ecu have (mine it's a 03G906018AQ).
You need to go to file-open bdm file-put your bdm file.
Now you should get a bunch of maps in the left side, if it doest show anything, the map it's not a bdm file (probably).

Now you go to file-export to xdf, and you will have a "XDF FILE" (i think they are called DAMOS)
For the tuning part, im using TunerPro, which it's free, it works with WinOLS too i think, but that's what im using.

When you open TunerPro, you need to go to XDF-SELECT XDF-SELECT THE XDF YOU CREATED.
Now you need to have your ODB readed map from the car, which you can get with MPPS, KESS ETC.
Go to file-open bin-select your ecu file.
Now it should look like this

From this, you can disable the DTC, Modify the maps, etc.
The things you are looking for, are the SWITCHES.
If you using DTCs to disable errors, it will only make the errors disapear, but the problem will be still there, i mean if the car is in limp mode throwing a code, if you disable the DTC you will not see the code, but the car will still be in limp mode.
If you using SWITCHES, they turn off the entire error.

For example if you want to disable de DPF
P2002 it's the error code for the DPF.
Use the parameter search tool

type your code, in our case it's a p2002
hit search and it will show those things.
For disabling the DPF, you need to modify all the SW 1 for 2002 code. In our case, there are 3.

here will be 1, modify to 0, hit enter, and then save.
Now save the file, go to the car and write the file, the p2002 will not show up, the car will not go in limp mode and you will not have a CEL.

I hope you understand everything, also sorry for my bad english.

 

[tr7]

This is a great post. If I was to follow this I would have to buy a MPPS V16. They are cheap enough I may do

What version of Windows are you running?

They seem cheap so I could be tempted to order one

 

[tr7]

@faby01 again, great post. I just got a chance to look into late last night

Where did you source the BDM file for our BRD engine ECUs? I found one last night online and while it appears to be correct, I'm not certain.

I'm not confident I can trust it to use it and to edit and then ultimately map with


On this BDM I sourced online, I was able to find the Three SW 1 for P2002. But the value set was not '1' the values were 32, 61 and 101

Does this look correct, or should I not trust this BDM file?

 

[faby01]

hi, this is the XDF file i am using, also you don't need a mpps, you could write with KESS aswell. Also i am running window 7 32 bit on my laptop.

xdf brd

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

 

[tr7]

hi, this is the XDF file i am using, also you don't need a mpps, you could write with KESS aswell. Also i am running window 7 32 bit on my laptop.

xdf brd

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

Thank you faby

I know you're saying I could write with the KESS. But I have never done it yet, and there are something I either

a) don't understand
b) don't make sense in the Read of the ECU I've done

So not certain I can trust it.

MPPS is cheap, and following the exact path you have with the exact same tools and method gives me more confidence

Here is the ECU Read I downloaded off the KESS
Does this look ok to you?

When I'm looking at it in WINOLS and now in TunerPro there are some maps that make absolutely no sense. Almost like it's potentially corrupted.
Let me know your thoughts.

If it looks normal to your BRD ECU read then I will maybe use the KESS I have. But for now I'm not certain
Would appreciate your view

 

[faby01]

hi, i just noticed myself, some maps makes no sense, and it's because this number

If this number in PPD MAPS, when you are creating the XDF file is not the same as the one of your ECU OBD READ, some maps will just make no sense, and would look like this.

 

[tr7]

Yes, good to know I'm not going mad. It doesn't make sense

What do you think the issue is?

a) the XDF isnt the right one for my ECU?
b) ECU read isn't right?

May be a simple fix, but this is partly why I'd be tempted to buy an MPPS and follow the same process you have successfully done already

 

[faby01]

the xdf is not right for your ecu file

 

[tr7]

That's a shame as my ECU has the same part number as yours from also a BRD car -

ECU: 03G 906 018 AQ

Know of any good sources online for XDF's?
Or is there anyone or service to generate them you know of?

 

[faby01]

the easiest way to remove the pipe, it's to remove the tandem pump and the coolant flange, few screws and it will make your life to much easier, also one of the egr pipe it's the same as the coolant flange, i mean it's a long bolt holding the pipe and the coolant flange at the same time. also i think, but i don't remember for sure, there is a bolt holding the egr pipe and the turbo oil line together. You will lose some coolant if you remove the flange, but trust me it's very easy with tandem pump and flange removed.

 

[faby01]

 

[cmal1001]

the easiest way to remove the pipe, it's to remove the tandem pump and the coolant flange, few screws and it will make your life to much easier, also one of the egr pipe it's the same as the coolant flange, i mean it's a long bolt holding the pipe and the coolant flange at the same time. also i think, but i don't remember for sure, there is a bolt holding the egr pipe and the turbo oil line together. You will lose some coolant if you remove the flange, but trust me it's very easy with tandem pump and flange removed.

thanks for that! are there any gaskets to be replaced on the tandem pump?

 

[faby01]

there is a big metal gasket behind the pump, if it leaks replace it, if it doesnt, keep it, i didn't replace on mine

 

[markthenewt]

Hi, i have a 2.0 tdi brd aswell, the dpf can be removed from above, but i was struggling to get it off without cutting the bolt on the manifold
(this one)View attachment 257898

Also, i removed the EGR, the EGR COOLER, and the EGR pipe behind the engine (which is a pain in the ***)
I simplified the vacuum lines ( now vacuum it's coming from the pump, one way valve, T to cam cover, to n75 and then to turbo. ) that's all the vacuum.
I removed all the solenoids that works with the egr egr cooler intake flaps, and i made a little braket to hold the n75.
If you want to remove the manifold flaps, you can simply disconnect the vacuum line, and the actuator will keep them open everytime, and you don't need to worry about breaking the caps, they are made from metal in the BRD manifold.

I also disable all the errors from the sensors removed, so no CEL or anything.

If somebody want help with turning off errors, from dpf egr or other sensors, i can help make another post. Im using a cheap MPPS V16 also.

Hi mate. I have just done the EGR and cooler delete on my BRD 170.

My manifold has the flaps but I have left the vacuum line to the actuator on the side of it connected, Should I blank that off, with a screw?

What is the benefit of the flaps being open all the time? Will these even still operate with the EGR valve gone?

Also do you have a diagram please of how you have simplified the vacuum lines.

I have noticed straight away with mine it is more responsive and you can hear the turbo whistling a lot more too.

 

[tr7]

Leave the flaps open and just plug the vacuum line.

People 'upgrade' to the inlet manifold from a BKD engine because it has no swirl flaps

2.0 TDI PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet / Intake Manifold Conversion Kit

PPD170 Used BKD Aluminium Inlet Manifold Conversion Kit (Removes Swirl Flaps)

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

So it's not only considered and upgrade.

It also does away with the chance of the swirl flaps getting clogged like this

After cleaning it felt like the car had been remapped


Since the above and originally posting this I've done a full DPF delete on two cars myself

I'll post up some more photos of walking through that later

 

[B7Tourer]

Mine's rolling coal now quite a bit if I floor it; though it runs really smooth - I can see it most, as is normal, at night in the lights of cars behind; tailpipes go black again 2 or 3 days after a valet too. It's definitely due for an EGR clean-out at least. No swirl flaps on the 140 TDIs, fortunately (and thankfully no DPF neither). Although I've been resistant, I think it's time for one of them Darkside Developments deletes. Did you leave the cooler in place, Mark, or strip that out too?

 

[markthenewt]

If you have never cleaned the inlet manifold out before then it's definitely due a clean. And yes I deleted the cooler too. Mine was doing the same, if I booted it at night I could see smoke but not loads. I haven't booted it hard since doing the Egr and cooler delete so not sure if its improved or not but I will let you know.

I didn't want to cut the cooler pipes down to hide them because if later down the line and cars are inspected more at mot time then I can always put the cooler back on. I just bought a racing lines brand 180 degree pipe.

To make it fit without it kinking the original pipes I had to cut a small piece of the bottom cooler hose down, but I have kept the cut off piece so It will be easy to add a joiner to put the cut piece of pipe back on with a joiner if I have to in the future.

I just need to make s bracket for the pipe as I have just cable tied it up for now lol.

 

[B7Tourer]

Can you leave the cooler in place, with this delete, and just blank it off, in case, as you say, you want to revert back? And yes I meant to add, I want to have the manifold cleaned out too, that's never been done in my ownership.

 

[markthenewt]

You will need a new inlet manifold gasket if you clean it out just to be safe. I got an aftermarket one for £15. Info I could find on torquing the bolts back up is 10nm for connecting the inlet manifold back to the block.

Yes you can leave the cooler in place if you want to. It just won't be doing anything. The dark side kit comes with a blanking plate.

 

[B7Tourer]

Mine's rolling coal now quite a bit if I floor it; though it runs really smooth - I can see it most, as is normal, at night in the lights of cars behind; tailpipes go black again 2 or 3 days after a valet too. It's definitely due for an EGR clean-out at least.

Since this thread I've been taking more active notice of smoke in the rear view. It's not as bad as I thought. Just a blast in third is where I notice it and only really at night; which is pretty good all told; I'm still probably going to take this route; definitely a clean out and de-carbon of the inlet manifold and EGR, whatever. I've mostly only used V-power diesel fuel until recently when for economies' sake I changed to ordinary diesel. It's been fine on that but going back to V-power I've noticed it much smoother again, and it definitely is getting a bit more MPG too. I've always changed the fuel filter more than regular too. I was behind a 320D Beemer yesterday, similar age to my Audi; good condition, that was smoking very bad, and she pulled into the next pump at the garage; so I told her so; which she was totally unaware of. She said it had just been serviced, I said it probably needs a good clean out too; you've put the subject on my mind now Mark lol.

 

[Matt275]

Wow those flaps were nasty. I was in there a little while ago whilst replacing the BRD swirl flap diaphragm as mine had a hole in it. The trouble with cleaning out the manifold it it's shape. Fine from the flap end to clean but the main chamber part is awkward to get anything into to scrape off the crud. My fear was leaving a loose chunk ready to fly into my inlet valves at any given moment.
I was going to soak mine overnight but time didn't allow in the end. I'd say it was average cruddy rather than terrible,
Replacing that diaphragm made a big difference to bottom end....not directly turbo related I know, but the vacuum leak must've been playing a part. I didn't get any code though.
My plan next spring or summer will be to get the inlet manifold off again and soak overnight and jet wash rinse, I went to a bodyshop who kindly gave me an empty gun thinners can, big can. I could then soak overnight in petrol? Not sure what's best to soak it in.