Johna650 S3 8L

[johna650]

Hello everyone, my name is John and this is a thread to share the progress I make as I fix/repair/tune my S3.
A little about the car...Classic 2000 pre facelift S3. Bought it a year ago (02/2021) third hand with 210k km (130k miles). Registered with APY engine, but swapped with AMK.

Begun with doing the wheels and tires. The wheels are Work CR bronze 18'' by 8.5'' . The tires are Dunlop SportMaxx RT 2 225/40/R18

 

[johna650]

Second mod is the conversion of the console to facelift 2 din. The head unit is Pioneer SPH-DA250DAB.

If any of the members requires more info on the console conversion, please ask and I can compile a guide in PDF.

 

[johna650]

Last weekend focused on maintenance and deep cleaning of the car..
Materials/Tools used:

1. Karcher pressure K4 washer
2. Karcher steam cleaner
3. Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner
4. Brushes and Microfiber towels
5. Plastic restoration fluid (nanotechnology)

I think the result speaks for itself:

 

[johna650]

Another update on the car... Since I bought it the engine plastic covers were missing, along with the mounting spots. So with a little help from etka, I managed to find the mounting point for the wiper fluid side (8N0 103 946 A), bought a second hand battery tray assembly and of course the plastic covers.

 

[johna650]

Some elaboration on the 2 Din project..

Still missing a blank on the left side of the ESP button.. Unfortunately I did not use the clima fascia with the heating switches since my seats are not heated, but kept the parts if I ever come across a good deal with a pair of heated seats.
Physical installation:

1. Find a climate control with code 8D0 820 043M (HELLA item)
2. Regarding the climate control fascia you will need a 2 DIN fascia or a 1 DIN (as I did, and file it on the edges to fit the console)
3. The climate control fascia are interchangeable, and only approximately 10 torx screws need to be removed. NOTE: Beware of the plastics, these are 20+ year old plastics and are very prone to breaking if not broken already.
4. The fascia for the 2 DIN display is an aftermarket one, and was advertised as Audi A4 B5 (or B6) fascia. Some filing maybe required here, but not anything extreme. NOT: It is not very clear on the photos, but the fascia does not entirely flush with the center console body (as did the OEM), but I think this is something minor and we can live with that.

Wiring wise, it was an easy job:

1. Hazard switch is straight fit, no action required
2. ESP switch for a car electrician is easy (10 minutes tops)
3. Rear de-mister is two cables that have to be extended, down to the climate control (pre fl uses separate switch on the top of the console)
4. Temp motor behind console: has 2 cables, one of them is BLACK/RED (some cars may have BLACK colour), this should be connected to pin 6 i socket A.
5. Connect together pins C3 and C14 (bridge them)
6. Connect together pins D14 and D15 (bridge them)
7. Pin A10 should be rewired to B6
8. With VAG-COM erase all faulty codes. and change coding for 0314

As for the 2 DIN display, nothing to report regarding the installation. It is pretty much straight forward for anyone that has installed an aftermarket sound source in their vehicle. I opted for a PIONEER SPH-DA250DAB 6.8'' screen.

Cheer mates, and specially thanks to the members of this forum greasyaxl and Danio for the information shared in the following topic LINK

 

[johna650]

Good Morning everyone! So the day before yesterday I purchased a Vag-Com cable and checked my ECU in order to familiarize myself with the interface and to gather some intel about the car. As discussed in the previous posts.. the car has left the factory as an APY (narrowband, SAI, etc.), but the previous owner has replaced the engine with an AMK (wideband, no SAI, etc.). Therefore, what I have to work with is the following:

1. AMK engine/head with VVT installed but not electrically connected
2. narrowband MAF
3. no EGT
4. narrowband O2 sensor and harness
5. N249 has been reomved (job done vaguely)
6. engine loom is not at the best shape (physical inspection by me) and is for narrowband

So, based on the above, I am on the hunt for a wideband conversion. I have to source all the components, and hopefully familirarize myself with the programming tools to immo off the new ECU and find out whatever is required for the instrument cluster.
Attached is the report as it was printed from VCDS

 

[johna650]

Another udpate on the car...It has been really long since I had time to mess with the car..So yesterday I replaced the stock recirculation valve with an HKS SSQV. The HKS has also been converted to recirculation..Please note that I fabricated a new chrage pipe out of aluminum. Sound wise you can definately hear the turbo spooling, and due to the design of the SSQV there is some fluttering. A few pictures follow:

 

[johna650]

It has been really long since I laid my hands on the car, and ever more since my last post here. A few things happened in the meanwhile.

1) Wiring​

My car is registered with an APY engine (narrowband) but it is fitted with an AMK engine (wideband). So I changed the ECU with a narrowband. I did not change the entire engine loom, as I am planning to make it from scratch at some point. The conversion was very easy (given that someone has the crimping tools to do a professional job). I bought the wideband Bosch O2 sensor, added the additional wire (narrowband is 4 wires, wideband is 5 wires) and given the opportunity I wired the VVT solenoid as well (it was installed on the engine head, but the engine loom did not have the corresponding wires). For the wiring, I consulted the BAM wiring diagrams, which upon prior inspection matched the colors/pinout of my engine loom. Below are some photos of the plug and wiring for the VVT:

and some photos from the O2 installation:

At the same time I also created a sub-loom for the coil plugs. The original loom was in a very bad shape:

and the new loom:

The new loom is interfacing with the main engine loom through a DEUTCH plug (awesome quality, very easy to work with, totally in love with these connector series).
All the materials used for the wiring connections are either OEM or of equivalent quality. The terminals are all gold plated. I refrained from buying the Chinese staff. Very happy with the result. To be honest, I did not notice any difference (referring to the coil plug loom) but no extensive testing has been done.

2) Intake​

The stock filter has been replaced by an HKS free flow filter.

I also replaced the oil cap, which was loose with an R8 style cap. (This will be replaced in the future with another more appropriate type oil cap to my likings)

3) Running gear​

I installed wheel spacers all around. 20mm in the front and 25mm in the back. This was done more as a preparatory step for the big brake kit in the front. Also the spacers convert bolts to lug nuts. Here's a picture of how the car stands now:

And we come to today...Some more parts arrived.

3) Fuel System​

I bought a fuel rail from Nuke Performance as I am planning to rebuild the entire fuel system, make it adaptable and ready to support bigger horsepower. The rail is just a jewel of machining! See for yourself!!!