Bobby Singh's Audi S2 avant project

I'm tempted by the TFSI coils, but I'm trying to keep the car as standard as possible. However I guess at some point I will have to convert. As I not sure you can even buy the old style coils anymore.
 
B5NUT said:
I'm tempted by the TFSI coils, but I'm trying to keep the car as standard as possible. However I guess at some point I will have to convert. As I not sure you can even buy the old style coils anymore.
Click to expand...
Best thing I done - I was changing plugs etc and the issue would go away for a bit, but since doing the TFSI coils no more issue. Power is smoother without any holding back or misfiring.
I understand there is something about keeping the car original, but if parts hard to find you will only end up installing used parts which are 27 years old plus wiring around heat sources is totally weak.

As mentioned previously I will do the injector wiring next - last thing I want is a lean event after spending 000's on the engine.
 
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Had the front bumper off to take out the headlights as I had a spare plug not connected - turns out someone previously fitted headlights without level adjustment motors.
Would have been nice to fit them but they are pretty rare to find and the ones I have look brand new.

While the bumper was off I noticed the Fan resistor looked pretty poor and the connections looked worse.

Cleaned up well enough


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sYJupwfTxRj_oT3v5JWS1SObY-z2vPHl&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ebBMYKaVXFYJdale324zsrz3RUfW0_7y&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kqTJoFqa4LA3at508hYbbE1P87n7Zt-X&usp=drive_fs
 
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SRE clutch for single mass flywheel:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1V9FvaPtZf-qbbUeQg0R61UmYMYTxAGbQ&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Hvw3gkT7rqf5Gv48qAyB-fbxD-usglBU&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SlIxZKcYSpYsioNDGVwOZszyU5WoTnDs&usp=drive_fs

More parts from AT:
Timing belt tensioner, cover and front crank bolt (12.9)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Rfo_i_Qi-GuobR0B7jJZjWQM1BdGf5Ab&usp=drive_fs

Door cil strips changed as old ones were broken and repaired with bathroom sealant:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JzM9EpVvT7QR0n9sRFFQAYKltOU6-cv3&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_VO0FUtIECTCFDeSpvd809NbaXdLbN1V&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1t0rZpBiqnTw1MSF6ha_CY3FFGD7FQukb&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jnVih_mTQb5xW6xjqCgxzn4MbH1ZRYH_&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lBAIFjhghN9szAXQTRePqYCL4Cz7I9RX&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BRj6HuBx-FmonGjxAmLQK8MCNs1CkrvJ&usp=drive_fs

Been tuning the ECU recently and decided to mount the modified ecu with the emulator for on the fly tuning:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1O4Uzy1Ab7wsjjU4pmFhlARAVOKNTeSxQ&usp=drive_fs

Need to find a emulator for the boost chip at some point
 
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CV joint
Since owning the car I've always had this clicking sound when turning - CV change


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PoZYVou4s2I-tsx_8MDKyiCBPaVKCB5P&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G1EDO7udZkaY6AiP9HkjT8pjpcY-t4_w&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vxItaNIJp4QlLa5W5osTeOr9zxQMmovA&usp=drive_fs

No more clicking and a very easy job so now ordered the other side too :)

More parts arrived:

- Injector wiring loom repair items
- Sump baffle plates
- light single mass flywheel
- Nuts, bolts and studs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ASQ6Nc7sF2gTvpk-Q3tsHtFJM8ubKaah&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ULjkyou2KyGDlH7Mt-wE1aHa4qiGkIcj&usp=drive_fs
 
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Have had this annoying fault with the doors not staying open and end up smashing in my leg when getting out. Looks like the bottom hinge is spring loaded and rides two cams.

New hinges are 120 euros etc from AT - managed to get all 4 doors complete with hinges, rubbers, windows, motors, mirrors etc for a very good price.


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1A2EDFoamrdQFmGQ0Wfh3SBYbLzJ_zCEW&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wNcwjBcvSRSpzPFuLfXyrBWZLhfSmQ59&usp=drive_fs

Hopefully another easy job
 
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Haven't got pics but the hinges for the front doors are now changed and working well - nice to have doors that stay in place.

Tricky part is the adjustment but I found measuring the old hinge (has a big hex for adjustment behind the bolt) got me 95% there and then used a jack to lift the door with the 4 bolts on the slackened off.

Next the new engine and all the rest of the parts are at the machine shop


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YMeJ4BluEp67mE1r4ToRoDaQNoqUBzmc&usp=drive_fs

They will bore the block using the torque plate
Keeping in mind the piston to wall clearence of 0.10mm

Everything will be balanced, washed and cleaned
I've asked to them machine the crank nose surface to ensure its true.

Ring gaps 0.40 top 0.45 second

Finally skim the deck.

In other news I bought a 7a head had it converted for turbo use, but it seems someone the past had repaired the exhaust stud thread and gone through:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1woTsvw3ilqj1zF1cZ-4Y5PST497mQ_bj&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vkmdIkQCO6YJD3QKzTh2gkYjLQ9kTQJx&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1le-KbMZUnRgnTpPg9tCZHFHCwa_ITdlz&usp=drive_fs

Seller said he'll replace it so waiting on him now
 
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bobby singh said:
Haven't got pics but the hinges for the front doors are now changed and working well - nice to have doors that stay in place.

Tricky part is the adjustment but I found measuring the old hinge (has a big hex for adjustment behind the bolt) got me 95% there and then used a jack to lift the door with the 4 bolts on the slackened off.

Next the new engine and all the rest of the parts are at the machine shop

WCVN2Cp.jpg


They will bore the block using the torque plate
Keeping in mind the piston to wall clearance of 0.10mm

Everything will be balanced, washed and cleaned
I've asked to them machine the crank nose surface to ensure its true.

Ring gaps 0.40 top 0.45 second

Finally skim the deck.

In other news I bought a 7a head had it converted for turbo use, but it seems someone the past had repaired the exhaust stud thread and gone through:

lTkAlSR.jpg


eGjRflj.jpg


A1GPhPH.jpg


Seller said he'll replace it so waiting on him now

Cheers
Bobby
Click to expand...
Bobby do you have garage I can visit a4 3.0 cab 07 no dpf remapped would like to go to 320bhp or slightly more regards Stephen. Guildford
 
Changed the passenger side CV joint - I might do the inners at some point:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W50xSdMrA213B5cNHWQftpKKaWkt4-6E&usp=drive_fs

Sump baffle plate prep work:

Stock

View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HJ013XS7-EH9Y_RAk_IlUaABznTbnK-2&usp=drive_fs

Work in progress

View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FCiGCFKo8FQFjzEzQ86v99mTl6DArUOQ&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1God0SuviyRWjpfe_Joip-shA4vnu32vi&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_Vap6xhUObTKDvDqs1RtnF0saBmjOa0W&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eCw6YI8Ch3Vuu4YXDM8YLBZg9cHHHejY&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GiNFjEiZY5fIx7X3fBH8wptLZALnM_Ck&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kGtnHVNVT1hpzlHhvgsTqBsfNdzjBYpd&usp=drive_fs

The plates now just need welding in next
 
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Baffle plates still need to be welded but in I've been making progress in other area's

Speedo stopped working
Checked the wiring and could not see any issues.
Ended up changing the speed sensor and reflowed the joints and seems be working again:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_Y-UFKRMlpEe7K3JFAnBhOhwBK9d3Jux&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1m0_HeAtHen2lTeJbMfp2BK2kH0QG2Fbt&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ijoZuiED7ffVuk3Ru1D8O1-ic4MADv7_&usp=drive_fs
 
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Nice soldering.
 
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Engine /Machine progress

Block decked & bored:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=15aYkpKIXXiN2zttiXkGRNEOR_dnO2MQA&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1C8rjVQjgsDedBnqr56X07jWuK1kt6w6k&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yBnPje_m-JHtS2fZXjAmd7jjiseTw0L0&usp=drive_fs

Front pulley bolt:

So the pulley and crank (diesel) requires a longer bolt, just for information I mailed Febi and they confirmed this as a 11.9 tensile.
I later got the item from TPS which I suspect is 11.9
Stock ABY - 65mm long 12.9
Diesel AEL - 110mm long 11.9


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HvhbAhWXHC5-3t8a0-FVCE_dHwHRAboF&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QFrCUa686etgCd_c_GAmci5RoSuTO3bE&usp=drive_fs

Head repair:

So the seller of the head didn't want to replace or repair the head so decided to get it done myself.


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PUGcI85qaD6ggtqaliZt9YlKV0ONcKGz&usp=drive_fs

You see how out line the previous repair was:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1x_ej77r-NvBtbga6yYpV-Tr755R4kK_0&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aL08IXu7sZEmFFtiprp__xrcY_ho1Iux&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fySg3agp5T7RZCzVtv3NbDoC8npyoMKm&usp=drive_fs

Done:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1biMqfMbVexzDY4rufpFQntepXBKSWs6I&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=13CeC1WBTLd9rnl79wa8h0QPq9lFZOhWM&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=19-nqhi2r3tDa8sCgK2AV5ou3MtWjiOAB&usp=drive_fs
 
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Love the precision.
 
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Great work, That's a really professional fix for that issue on head. Most people would have just drilled a slot in the manifold and left it at that. Those ring gaps look quite small is that stock ring gap numbers?
 
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bobby singh said:
Balancing

VSHlg14.jpg


jMB3jGA.jpg


Hn4BKuv.jpg


R0qjR0c.jpg


7nOpLHw.jpg


Report:

86EHmLS.png


The only thing that didn't need any balancing was the flywheel
Sachs clutch, cranks fluid filled pulley etc all needed balancing
Click to expand...
Is this your handy work or a company?
 
desertstorm said:
Great work, That's a really professional fix for that issue on head. Most people would have just drilled a slot in the manifold and left it at that. Those ring gaps look quite small is that stock ring gap numbers?
Click to expand...
Thanks Karl - trying to do the best job possible for this motor
Stock ring gap is 0.15 to 0.35mm with wear limit at 1mm
 
Engine back home


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1I4xhNV9L6ghM2B13n2YXmn5TW5wAv7q2&usp=drive_fs

Cranks cleaned and polished


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_M66r772awD6FtWBZ8LTYSIc8tOyuNhW&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G8DBEUS2rRw9oBYKyV4FMv7hb97zWCL8&usp=drive_fs

Warning when cleaning the mains threads note there is a one way valve which keeps the oil in the head. When running the tap down you will hit this unless you remove it


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1O_HKi3i5spw_fdcE_IWCgqLz31zUHcwb&usp=drive_fs

Block painted


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14OxUJZhOivBKXLCRwpH0wE7g9s3DYTql&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1v9MAcPzEl90eFtz-h9rX3wEiO0w6oJPu&usp=drive_fs

New valve, deck pins and thread adaptor for the oil pressure gauge (AAN block just has a bung there)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qhkjREvhTg6UUF0KbmgCt7Ol--fdFdxQ&usp=drive_fs

Rings installed:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bp43FjBZxmaYxF32Sh8yp5vj7Jel5vii&usp=drive_fs
 
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Well it was going too smoothly right.
Went to put the crank in and tighten up the mains to 75nm (recommended settings for the 12.9 bolts) and the crank got tight.
Measured the journals from the S2 crank to the Diesel and they were 1:1
Measured the bearings all ok there too.
Put the S2 crank in with old bearings and old bolts at 65nm and the crank turned but still not that free.

Went back to the machine shop and they measured the journals with a bore gauge and noticed the bore was getting tight after torqueing the bolts down.
Its looking like I need line boring done to fix this.

In the meantime found out that 1.9PD (ARL) mains bolts are 12.9 & 80mm long (same as the S2 ones) which have a torque setting of 65nm plus 90deg.
So line boring will be done with diesel bolts next.
Mains bolts diesel bolts are N90889701 rated at 12.9

Its never straight forward
 
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That's very strange about the main caps Bobby. Have to ask the question, you did have them in the correct order and the correct orientation. I am sure you double checked everything. I use the 12.9 PD main bolts in my 1.8T. The stock 1.8T mains are 10.9 and the 2.0 TFSI use the same bolts as the PD150.
www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

Genuine ARL PD150 Mains Bolts for 1.9 TDi 8v Engines

Genuine ARL PD150 Mains Bolts for 1.9 TDi 8v Engines
www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk
tsr-performance.com

2.0 TFSI Main cap bolt set of 10

bg@434330.com
tsr-performance.com tsr-performance.com
 
desertstorm said:
That's very strange about the main caps Bobby. Have to ask the question, you did have them in the correct order and the correct orientation. I am sure you double checked everything. I use the 12.9 PD main bolts in my 1.8T. The stock 1.8T mains are 10.9 and the 2.0 TFSI use the same bolts as the PD150.
www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

Genuine ARL PD150 Mains Bolts for 1.9 TDi 8v Engines

Genuine ARL PD150 Mains Bolts for 1.9 TDi 8v Engines
www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk
tsr-performance.com

2.0 TFSI Main cap bolt set of 10

bg@434330.com
tsr-performance.com tsr-performance.com
Click to expand...
Hey Karl I got a sneaky feeling the vinegar has attacked the surfaces when I cleaned the block up. Once the attached area is cleaned up it should be fine - but its just my theory without any evidence.
 
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Is this just a trickle charger Bobby? Straight forward to use? I need to invest in something for my B5, it often struggles when I don’t drive it for 3/4 weeks at a time.
 
Hi
S4 Muzza said:
Is this just a trickle charger Bobby? Straight forward to use? I need to invest in something for my B5, it often struggles when I don’t drive it for 3/4 weeks at a time.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what it is - nice and small approx £40 from Halfords
 
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Boot struts replaced


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pAoXxpe18H35hEn51vYgsQUED5v3PdIr&usp=drive_fs

Injector & Cam sensor loom replacement:

So over the years the wiring near heat source has started to break.


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sbPBGOoDOAhcCMU26IRZxauGW1bxfSDA&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HZPzomrpRQk2baEFD9Mbzf5XLmEBlaBO&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CRDMpRUxQEXREF6Sc46cPZ3yMgW61WPL&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1onJmWt01maofUU1121venKPmUF-SCqfb&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HDsbrjxFktWZMWEoVwBHQvNzCG02eH16&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1A_Oll8vonj5Ron8y4_jYxq-s1PvjwyxS&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BMrZS5GS0DbpCSB4W0L9K23XdFSWGa7d&usp=drive_fs

Used the following to make this:

AMP 2 way connectors with 90deg boots (inj plugs)
JPT 3 way connector kit (cam sensor)
Raychem DR-25-1/8 SPO 1m
Raychem DR-25-3/8 SPO 1m
Deutsch DTM06-12s-E007 connector kit
Deutsch DTM04-12P connector kit
Deutsch DTM06-3S-E007 connector kit
Deutsch DTM04-3P connector kit
M22759/32-22 air frame wire 1m

Terminals on oem wiring


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=15POnL12bLfS_ACG2Lq5Eqb_rLUTzE24u&usp=drive_fs

Test fit:

View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1KuOAg9FMq1KZqT9Ycm3dY9I0202krkKX&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZgnV-N9iaF3I3IW4SxjGOnIPUhhtYg0k&usp=drive_fs
 
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Cam sensor plug finally turned up:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZwysjtFitZS9WeNxF8y9wXirAhlkdyDZ&usp=drive_fs

Rubber boots for the door switches replaced:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=18BlLF5wxGa57DM_SClh96ytGUNtmR4VP&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=17o8MX1Yvkeu8ES1JsChz5HWFhPeMvkOj&usp=drive_fs

Cluster repair

So I noticed both my fixing points on the cluster housing were broken, managed to get hold of a VDO B4 cluster from a Audi 80 which had one good fixing the other side I plastic welded a lug and then shaped it:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XXqpmb-cnXhFgeCexDWBnpg6VBzyRdnn&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=11qXb1_72UsaKd-k-1Gdsbb_iSK3EPE5K&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AzUCAarj_SlduQncz_HqtI2w0OTwat-d&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FuCY1kLoRV8WzkK8suBmHrvZ3Fwy7b5l&usp=drive_fs


Cheers
Bobby
 
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Engine building round 2
So the block is back from the line honing and crank was spining freely.
When the bearing clearance was measured again it was noted one journal was alittle tight @ 0.025mm.
It was decided to grind the crank a little.

Progress:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jjE9mYg0-WBOKSt-kuLSSht76apZdWs-&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1s0c7wcj8qZsXhfifbEPWNnPlR8Q2OXtf&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=13BeQHhRFbIaJlmN2eDSkNSVPINC4d011&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g9iUQomm1bAbCcXE4yNazMmVKU_OwrDG&usp=drive_fs

Check valve


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZFcR1hM4VNmjn4T_zcUURy4zH_4WOIjF&usp=drive_fs

Here in this video you can see why if using arp stud and nut kit you would need to shorten the stud to avoid crushing the check valve


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Omg-g5WXm87J2Uy7OLyLlx0U5NUsYNgC&usp=drive_fs

Jets all cleaned


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LcgHPc87Kuxvogbel-cBUTI4knqEzh0-&usp=drive_fs

Used set of PD bolts during the honing process show them stretched so put in a fresh set


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1psjkW8KDwKuz8Pk7-s2tD3WLgcI49tKg&usp=drive_fs


New main bearings (didn't use other new set which had markings before the line honing)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H3PJcF9LNahTA_b3ZN50p44zaMvllAG2&usp=drive_fs

ARP lube on the mains and tightened to 65nm plus 90deg


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1C2VwdmgyD7IPNosRD6gpOUl7sL3jkKkV&usp=drive_fs

Success :)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LCmaInqbyqGj8-MBDskA6_8uKs8mZlZM&usp=drive_fs

Stock pistons Vs JE & rods


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_EWAHyNyuAFbSFvv-QkLDICZA0WxqQX7&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1S4tkfuCPMaUpFaHnhvcfsIQzhDv9b0_U&usp=drive_fs

ARP stretch gauge on rod bolts


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QJWZm5dVi6A1nncQInQKqH1iS1qt1tfG&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cITvjvAvOyS0CJM31Y69PD4XMpLCYt1q&usp=drive_fs

Oil pump check before install


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=12ZHxTacsg5VhSG5HnuZJIpqTvYfHVjjd&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yManrwshv0ABKuwC09x-jkbnxhde_GX4&usp=drive_fs
 
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Exhaust manifold modified for 6 egt probes (1 for each cylinder and 1 in the collector) and 1 emp boss


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HNV80B4xbluOx9cB2xwPQ-KAbBkzBatw&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=17tLBeqxSVlYVXbpZY8WVajIU22v9wHIn&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ii4u28oqxVbvQCCQqOAcsl27PHDHAIPV&usp=drive_fs

60/2 rear crank seal


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YNPjVEXDd5l79SOD87-Lt-h9U_zlodDc&usp=drive_fs

Decided to step away from the m232 - very good ECU but the lack of support was burning too much of my time
Maxx Race ECU with a plug n Play adaptor with stock knock sensors, EVAP & HVAC signal.
Finally a spare 5v ign channel for the trip computer fuel usage signal are connected


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E-Z8QwUprpZ7qfzsidYktKD2vkqY47hb&usp=drive_fs
 
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