Bobby Singh's Audi S2 avant project

Bouncing doors - so for sometime my rear doors seem to bounce when you close them. Managed to get a used lock thats at least fixed one side:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-e_6z6d8gb4WvIwTwto716NYvcWGvQG8&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZjOAZ-VD-hbkSLLc5Ys9dIv_7jiDftlK&usp=drive_fs

I also bought a B4 sunroof as parts are getting harder to find - I also used this to learn how to take it apart and then finally changed my drip tray and drip tray arms:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1azkI6v4w1OtKNonQqKe_bIiNOuk60Hqj&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xJUtwRG0ijHSbtkVLvqMTll4xZKyG2nT&usp=drive_fs

Drip tray replacement:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10d4l6RbDK2oxf1sP81yehfCeLO3vIUpn&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Cx527hbaUyXgd9M3-D9DheAMNJ9WMkUJ&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=18bX3JmcYIOewG2RhSXplVONkr_0IoFMe&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H6OviENl-1iIRbglaqq2X_8Jog7ujeDY&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PGZWZ-vo6TqyUrNPozQ7x3G-YzK25Ylt&usp=drive_fs

Roof bars

The paint shop and I was both confused on how the roof bars come off and after some invesigation and lots of wd40 they are finally off.
Im hoping to get the edge roof painted now


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PGZWZ-vo6TqyUrNPozQ7x3G-YzK25Ylt&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tF-oUyng0eAK32E3hIQj3lmIaur2PfnV&usp=drive_fs

Cheers
Bobby
 
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Turbo turned up :)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bp682lra_T-Nm3M6j6V5OsvcOVkjHBKb&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1foBVWqYTwGPP5MuFzb_-Un1oGixJwdLU&usp=drive_fs

Rods


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rjS0BEYylOW46ORmAP-TYmluaavkNihp&usp=drive_fs

Pistons

View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZpbAwGEvKwy1LVoL8Zv3v5faifx6geVL&usp=drive_fs

Work on the spare ECU has started


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kDp-vVEjk8mZw1C-UKjIXyPo09g0LwBf&usp=drive_fs

Sockets installed


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FHdqzV68hc3GYj9dllM1SLrsWamcsG77&usp=drive_fs

Ported changes from my current tune into prjmod (timing, injector cal and boost control)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1n2hB0Rz14WNBX_xZ7BxWNvQjkG92zKgb&usp=drive_fs

Waiting on 4 bar boost sensor but car runs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CrsTZJl6sk3-cvKr2JYsk-V2ArNOHy7q&usp=drive_fs
 
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Great work Bobby, This looks like a pretty serious build . That turbo looks meaty, looks like an 8374 or similar, What's the HP target ?
 
Hey Karl - correct 8374 T3, to be honest I don't have a target for power - it makes whatever it makes. I will make the bottom end a 2.5l to help spool, but off course if its too laggy I could downsize after.
I want that 5 pot sound from the group b days haha
 
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Can I ask where & what type of bulbs are used in the diff lock button, at least one of my bulbs have failed so may as well replace the lot
1647946888589
 
B5NUT said:
Can I ask where & what type of bulbs are used in the diff lock button, at least one of my bulbs have failed so may as well replace the lot
View attachment 251678
Click to expand...
I tried looking through my ebay history and could not find the listing, however Im sure I used a thread on the S2 forum - maybe this is of some help:

Inside the rear diff lock switch - S2Forum - The Audi S2 Community

Clutch, gearbox, differentials, driveshafts, rear diff mount and experiences
www.s2forum.com
Cheers
 
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Had a look at that thread but did not have much luck finding them. I'll keep searching.
 
Tracking


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16RBCxbwptRWMxX-GZObI0oBomaL1qArG&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iAsMoWy-kx5TbYk3z-dIM_Bf3DaUUKRc&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DSujpWC6voACip6PShn2j5dEm0WIRrMu&usp=drive_fs

These guys managed to get the tracking pretty much perfect, only one side was a pain but we got there in the end

On a side note managed to find a old picture of me in a Audi S2 from the NEC motorshow during the early 90's


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SI0Z5BovLo1IX-YdadxJSgcs8qL6Cmgr&usp=drive_fs

Cheers
Bobby
 
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bobby singh said:
Hey Karl - correct 8374 T3, to be honest I don't have a target for power - it makes whatever it makes. I will make the bottom end a 2.5l to help spool, but off course if its too laggy I could downsize after.
I want that 5 pot sound from the group b days haha
Click to expand...
With a 2.5L bottom end that will make it a lot better off boost and of course it will spool better than the stock 2.2L .
Those are 750bhp capable turbos so I would of thought you would be looking at around 700bhp plus crank hp with 2.2-2.3 bar boost. And those EFR turbos will deliver higher P2C ratios than the Garrett turbos so you can run more than that easily if the engine / transmission will take it.
 
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desertstorm said:
With a 2.5L bottom end that will make it a lot better off boost and of course it will spool better than the stock 2.2L .
Those are 750bhp capable turbos so I would of thought you would be looking at around 700bhp plus crank hp with 2.2-2.3 bar boost. And those EFR turbos will deliver higher P2C ratios than the Garrett turbos so you can run more than that easily if the engine / transmission will take it.
Click to expand...
Indeed its very efficient https://www.borgwarner.com/go/TZ8V21
 
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So the car had the roof redone:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DsHilTm4LE4QTVPkTav57pp4w7hZxNCf&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E5jmZ21NgA0A-uA8HwcJeyQ2FhEhjbYJ&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10Yf3BQ9Jyjp_B_dWEz15K-ghKlCPB_7_&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JMQndu1ZhJaNRViUjFzuuEhpZ2eh_ZiD&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=11Ne-s2uD22PTh74yurj-Qee_FD55u8gq&usp=drive_fs

Good news is the roof is much better now and with the roof bars out the way it made it much easier.
However, the roof trim still got in the way and it started falling apart when trying to lift it.
I've managed source one from a car being broken so this will need a revisit in the future.

In terms of tuning - I've managed to get wideband lambda going into the ECU


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=18AB9p10aJ_pYVMsyUHHtPcUsdM0dGGrs&usp=drive_fs

I'm using the following formula:
(((X*0.007212) + 0.3125)) for the TunerPro cal

My lambda controller is set as follows:
0.5 lam @ 0.5v
2.0 lam @ 4.5v


Cheers
Bobby
 
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So have you found another MAF fits and will work with the stock ECU and a slight remap?
 
B5NUT said:
So have you found another MAF fits and will work with the stock ECU and a slight remap?
Click to expand...
No I'm working on getting rid of the MAF and use speed density hence why wanted to get lambda logging into the ECU.
You have a broken MAF? I could flash some chips with a stage 1 tune with SD if you want?
 
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No it's still working. However they are rare and expensive now. So was just looking around for future options. I'm good for tuning. Someone gave me "homefries" remap chips, however I'm planning on keeping the car stock. However if you have a chips that could bypass the MAF so I could keep the car working until a replacement could be found then I would be interested. Think I'm paranoid about most of the obsolete parts on this car!
 
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B5NUT said:
No it's still working. However they are rare and expensive now. So was just looking around for future options. I'm good for tuning. Someone gave me "homefries" remap chips, however I'm planning on keeping the car stock. However if you have a chips that could bypass the MAF so I could keep the car working until a replacement could be found then I would be interested. Think I'm paranoid about most of the obsolete parts on this car!
Click to expand...

M232 Wiki

m232.org m232.org

This has the links for a stage 1 tune with Mafless tuning
 
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B5NUT said:
So have you found another MAF fits and will work with the stock ECU and a slight remap?
Click to expand...

The only real MAF solution i know of is prj:s own MAF swap for a B5 RS4 one. I run this on my B2 90, but it need hardware mods as the speed density do. The maf connector needs swapping for the appropriate one, and som jumpers made into the ECU. So you are basically stuck with your MAF as long as you don't go for the speed density mod.
 
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Engine work

So with the help of a S2 Forum member I got my hands on a AAN block (same as a ABY but for a URs6) - It came from a car with a broken timing belt and the head had already been sold off - 100k on the clock before this happened.
Block had been sitting for 7 odd years like this:



View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16eEqKd-t6Gz_XAGvpfleqehc8nHYNADs&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yrrl7Jt9z_Ie2ehyPVMH_PvzWYLTSIWc&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1F7NMeCil3VUGDe2xjA2_rCJv_OfG8YSz&usp=drive_fs

Done the deal and got it home for a strip down:

Don't think the water pump is usable :)

View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16IaTOILWZ8WZz1Xq4oxiMeF8utrKVCzB&usp=drive_fs

3litres of oil came which was a good sign:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ycIelF9Rq1QlDWKQzw788Fuu06YjBgyl&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=167UPy6I1_Fh3kbl13KdGM39KOfaWDl39&usp=drive_fs

Crank and pistons out - note the main bearings are like new with "95" stamped on all parts so its never been apart I would say


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16l1E-eHjk2UnQl-tPxJKbI9MGeUa2gLo&usp=drive_fs


Gave the engine a nice pressure wash and its looking a lot better already:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sJ-0QOEKp6TXyoqlp-WACkUEmjveMiXE&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rvnKuq11q1TBPKFOXrcaeg1E3xZEAZHf&usp=drive_fs


With block cleaned - I wanted to get on with the grinding to clear the new rods.
In went the Diesel cranks with old pistons and new rods


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14SfiDSIMhm0SaSKGtxfTG8kuyHP22Lcx&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=149el91RRprpMQtZ351riy6mOyJvF59lO&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xKsiwVlIwCvzS9WMgeCHPYIGWKcJ3vZj&usp=drive_fs

20vt cranks Vs Diesel (top)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uXe0Ll8Cj799oXP6m5wu0v3vAaAXkpXe&usp=drive_fs

More to come....
 
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What will you be doing with the ABY engine in the car?
 
Starting issue
Had a issue with starting the car when fuel level went below half

Took the fuel pump and pushed some pressure through it and found a bad seal:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dsLLPto8jd8_WD8aBcGOdXBXLOI8w7t5&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W6aOFzrbLVY8xwZCOP5ndAnzSrv9EHiB&usp=drive_fs

Engine block

left it in white vingear for a few days and the results are very decent


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OmMTv3wEGvAk3TNegzovFLGfz8DB5TXz&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xPCw06nj7Za86s3ZfxMZGYMM6nlZrfhL&usp=drive_fs
 
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Good find on the copper washer. I never tried but is the pump easy enough to remove?

What will you be doing with the bores on that bock, as the top section appear look a bit rusty in the photo's but it could just be the light.

I would be keeping the engine as well. Do you think you would revert it back to stock if you sold the S2?
 
Block work

Found some metal in the oil pick up so stripped the oil pump to check the condition and it looked mint:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yFxBTCUi0n_paRt8olLRAwPpEoXnQh2I&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ok11SEYs3VZhsWxxrlYdAlozYxiafF8q&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1F1gdr8g_MwJwhQZK5BqeVU-eNvNWynvF&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vxkOJVtnrwkaRfbaP0IYOZqrGeLuM6nD&usp=drive_fs

Noticed the spring was already skimmed so should have plenty oil pressure

TPS still have the oil pick up rubber and oil pump spring so ordered those new

Torque plate - nice block of alu turned up


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1f2j_6-OHRqoetnOzMLHyDSkbbkJxJU1q&usp=drive_fs

My cnc guy will machine this soon - I haven't seen many use a torque plate for these engine for boring which seems very strange considering its rare engine to find.

Block condition looks a lot better after a soak in vinegar


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=17_G0Y10bLqrDd1d7hyXH9Lo3WtvlgtFT&usp=drive_fs


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Cy85d-VwuqCM088ka0zEdi9KiVNhPXss&usp=drive_fs

S2 sump also landed - time to order a WELD-IN SUMP BAFFLE KIT


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mQVxZdZK2SP59W6_TPqaUtnFe99tcylQ&usp=drive_fs
 
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B5NUT said:
Good find on the copper washer. I never tried but is the pump easy enough to remove?

What will you be doing with the bores on that bock, as the top section appear look a bit rusty in the photo's but it could just be the light.

I would be keeping the engine as well. Do you think you would revert it back to stock if you sold the S2?
Click to expand...
Good question - I bought this car to put a smile on my face when I drive it.
I understand it will be worth more stock but my objective was to extract that 80's 5 pot sound from this.
The bore rust I'm not too worried about as I'll be boring it 0.5mm+ to make way for the new pistons
 
Forgot to answer your question about the pump - mine runs a 044 pump which sits inside the stock basket. However, I believe the pump should be sitting lower and you need to hack the plastic to make it sit lower.
But I failed at removing the basket so just pulled the pump up.

I've ordered this so the pump depth can be adjusted correctly - https://turbozentrum.co.uk/034Motor...Pump-Adapter-Kit-Bosch-60mm-Audi-S4-2000-2002
 
So had the Air Bag light on for a while now and the error code was:

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-10 - - - Intermittent

Its related to some bad memory or checksum issue.

I got hold of a replacement item - 8A0959655 but ended up with more errors. In the end I installed 8A0959655B from someone breaking a s2 - no more light :)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zKoFZt38syusS8OlmMZkVuVYr4KFcz00&usp=drive_fs

Reverse lockout has always been broken on my car (could get reverse when going for first)
After some serious research I found the lever in Germany brand new (note the 5 speed ones are different)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FdU3MZ0wDE2-rRDrMdsiwheKeIvh6UTK&usp=drive_fs


Engine parts keep coming:

Oil pick rubber boot:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FR5WlteGZiUZKpmIbzOPd1BhcA9Jzzf5&usp=drive_fs

CNC guy now has the torque plate and we found the PD 8v head lines up pretty well to the 5 cylinder head gasket:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SvaeDtgnqE1d7cNkLVBd8vUXEBbdkiod&usp=drive_fs
 
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As I've had the pump out in the past I've noticed the pump could do with sitting abit further down in the basket. So rather than using cables etc to hold it in place I got the correct part for the job:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QBP8Sdp0UiCwCDslL0UDbf48t_1F_IGt&usp=drive_fs

Also, shocking news but the oil pump spring is still available from Audi - So rather than risking a spring thats not seen much action for the last 7 years I ordered a replacement:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1joRqOz8owBHYNxvwDFuQCY8alx88tHtt&usp=drive_fs

Block is looking well I must say - Just waiting on the torque plate before I can move onto the next step:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E-rKYAWvGu6hK667gcVwuxfExYEpx5gq&usp=drive_fs
 
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What a great resto/build! Really looking forward to se this
 
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Looking good, I like the fact that the bolt spacing on the cylinder head looks to be the same as a 1.9PD. VAG really do seem to stick with proven concepts and designs. So much is swappable between platforms . It may be an optical illusion on the picture of that oil pump spring but the diameter of the wire on the new spring looks a little thicker?
 
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desertstorm said:
Looking good, I like the fact that the bolt spacing on the cylinder head looks to be the same as a 1.9PD. VAG really do seem to stick with proven concepts and designs. So much is swappable between platforms . It may be an optical illusion on the picture of that oil pump spring but the diameter of the wire on the new spring looks a little thicker?
Click to expand...
Hey Karl the old spring is actually on the left side - I cleaned it with wire wool as I thought I had seen some rust. But to remove all doubts I rather fit a new spring so I can sleep at night.
Plenty parts keep coming so hopefully get the block bored soonish
 
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What is the price of the fluidampr, and is there much benefit over the standard pully?
 
Progress has been abit slow but managed to wire in the lambda controller with a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. This Controller also give output for narrowband control back into the ECU so no need for oem sensor anymore.


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gQT8J02DsMy6P8VHvwGrLvy5c4RpCUtj&usp=drive_fs


Used the old plug from the old sensor for power and narrow band back into the ECU - less wires and lambda controller now only comes on when car is running (just like the heater for the oem sensor)


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wmTU_rB5RPj8oAE4ZHFWUTpUWVJ42vKg&usp=drive_fs

All connection done via super seal 5pin plug


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-A_DVKtP2_5pjqpuJob56C2VyO_g2y2z&usp=drive_fs

Straight into the glovebox:


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wDMx_V6lUMDFdmuIXEe20xDCya3BKN2A&usp=drive_fs

RS232 connector available in glovebox for config


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ovA4jq8SCRSCb3YFVbCwynMTvBwvnj0L&usp=drive_fs

Cheers
 
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bobby singh said:
Block work

Found some metal in the oil pick up so stripped the oil pump to check the condition and it looked mint:

Uh45hcl.jpg


p4VNOoJ.jpg


Tmf5tAc.jpg


7BC6cbB.jpg


Noticed the spring was already skimmed so should have plenty oil pressure

TPS still have the oil pick up rubber and oil pump spring so ordered those new

Torque plate - nice block of alu turned up

xNLZtER.jpg


My cnc guy will machine this soon - I haven't seen many use a torque plate for these engine for boring which seems very strange considering its rare engine to find.

Block condition looks a lot better after a soak in vinegar

dQeRXHG.jpg




S2 sump also landed - time to order a WELD-IN SUMP BAFFLE KIT

QfQiDRQ.jpg
Click to expand...

What were the metal bits or didn't you dig that deep or you'd not sleep lol.
 
Added TFSI coils with a wiring loom from -
www.lspeed-racing.de

Kabelsatz zur Umrüstung auf TFSI Spulen Audi 5 Zylinder 20V Turbo

Kabelsatz zur Umrüstung auf TFSI Spulen Audi 5 Zylinder 20V Turbo
www.lspeed-racing.de www.lspeed-racing.de

Coils I used - BERU ZSE032


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b4iid8ScHw96C4Vm8a_e34Hv4PtoiraT&usp=drive_fs

I've managed to install the OEM coil cover back
Still need to adjust the dwell time in the tune but these work so much better than the 27 year old coils and wiring. There is now no more random flat spots, rev's nice and clean.

I would like to refresh the injector loom next especially near the cam cover area (heat source).

Quick video

View: https://youtu.be/8CZJPnAjqpw

Was messing around with a dragy and clearly shows how this turbo drop plenty of boost between gear changes


View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16klQaJzh0PU0wYPA7lb_Pehi_hhNFWNh&usp=drive_fs
 
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