PDC retrofit 2006 A3

[aqibi2000]

Hi guys,

will a 8P0919283 be suitable for PDC retrofit on my 2006 A3.

The sensors on the bumper are the style in the photo, it is coming with the harness on the sensor side, so just need to make other harnesses without have good to buy Kufatec.

Thanks

 

[Troubs12]

I’ll have a look on my laptop after my nightshift but you can modify the existing loom so that old sensors will work with newer control units.


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[aqibi2000]

I’ll have a look on my laptop after my nightshift but you can modify the existing loom so that old sensors will work with newer control units.


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Thanks appreciate it!

seen that PDC module with the harness connectors included for £13 so keen to snap it up if it’s the right one

 

[NHN]

983 is an older unit, 475 are newer, but regardless, make sure the module suits your needs, in terms of either rear only or front & rear as you can't have rear only on a front & rear module.

 

[aqibi2000]

983 is an older unit, 475 are newer, but regardless, make sure the module suits your needs, in terms of either rear only or front & rear as you can't have rear only on a front & rear module.

thanks NHN, will only be fitting rear, i presume that means this is suitable for this style of sensor + model year then?

cheers

 

[aqibi2000]

Is this transferable with some tinkering. tabs melted

didn’t pay enough attention when buying the rear bumper I need to somehow attach this to the broken off tabs

 

[aqibi2000]

Actually I think I can manage, just about enough tab left.

propane torch to heat some metal up that I’m going to use as a “stamp”

 

[aqibi2000]

Well that failed, even though it’s abs to abs by the looks of things melting didn’t work.

anyone know of any adhesive that would be suitable?

 

[George Kost]

What are you trying to glue?
In my PDC+PLA retrofit I needed to glue the PDC holders to the inside of bumpers.

@NHN suggested “Innotec topfix is the best resin.“ at another thread.

I bought from my local hardware store a 2 part epoxy glue specialized for ABS and everything worked well.

 

[aqibi2000]

It’s the bumper mounting bracket that is attached to the inside of the sportback bumper which carries the 2 long bolts.

Used 2 part epoxy Araldite now

 

[George Kost]

I didn’t know that this part is removable.
You can use the kind of adhesive I mentioned.
Epoxy glue.
It is in 2 parts that you have to mix together before applying. Many brands make it in two syringes that apply each part in the same time.
Something like the picture attached.
And there are different cute times. Make sure to take one that suits you. And for different materials.

 

[aqibi2000]

Cheers, I’ve used 2 part epoxy now and waiting till tomorrow to fit

Been using your PLA retrofit as a sort of guide for my installation haha

 

[George Kost]

That is a good post with tons of info!
Most help came from @Troubs12 and @henkkeumus

 

[Troubs12]

Hey bud I can’t find the wiring changes in a doc that I thought was there but I’m working tonight and have the diagrams on my one drive I’ll message you with what changes you need to make.

Basically the old system had separate live and earth for earth sensor and the newer setup has a shared live and earth for all of them. But I’ll write it up tonight and send it over to you it won’t take long.

 

[Troubs12]

Hiya lads I had a break at work so was able to go over the wiring again and if you want to make the old sensors work with the newer control unit all it’s fairly simple. As the sensors go to the same pins on both setups, it’s all about power.

At the 12 pin connector to the ecu you need depin and join a few wires for live you depin the following:


12, 10 & 6 and join them to the wire going in to pin 11

For earth:

9, 7 & 1 and join them to the wire going in to pin 8

Obviously give yourself enough space away from the connector to make the join say a good couple of inches. But you are essentially changing this....

Into this....

If you need any more advice just shout but I kinda feel bad not for not refixing my trim on the rear bumper when it came off ages ago, I best put it on the ever growing list but for now the wait for my 6am finish continues.




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[aqibi2000]

Where's the easiest place to take the 12V switched feed from for the PDC module (without running a wire to the fuse box at the front).

Page 1657 shows fuse box 4 which contains some terminal 30 fuses, which would appear to be relatively close by.

Also here's a link to the wiring diagrams incase anyone needs it for other purposes:
https://cardiagn.com/audi-a3-8p8p18pa-ewd-from-model-year-2004/
https://cardiagn.com/audi-a3-8p8p18pa-ewd-from-may-2006/

 

[Troubs12]

Where's the easiest place to take the 12V switched feed from for the PDC module (without running a wire to the fuse box at the front).

Page 1657 shows fuse box 4 which contains some terminal 30 fuses, which would appear to be relatively close by.
View attachment 215598

Also here's a link to the wiring diagrams incase anyone needs it for other purposes:
https://cardiagn.com/audi-a3-8p8p18pa-ewd-from-model-year-2004/
https://cardiagn.com/audi-a3-8p8p18pa-ewd-from-may-2006/

Personally mate I’d run the wires to the front. From what I understand so far about this is you’re fitting a newer genuine unit and using the old style sensors right? Hence the need to modify the wiring that I sent you the other day. If you’re using a genuine control unit then you’ll have to run the CAN wires anyway so why now power as well?


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[aqibi2000]

I’ve looked at the wiring for convenience CAN needed for the module, I only need to tap into it, the actual convenience module’s CAN which is mounted on the same bracket as the PDC Ecu, so that’s why I‘m only missing a 5A feed nearby


PDC Module, T16f = Brown Connector
GND Pin 8 Brown
5A 12V Switched Pin 1 Black/Blue
CAN High Pin 14 Orange/Green
CAN Low Pin 7 Orange/Brown
2 Positive Buzzer Pin 2 Brown/Red
1 Negative Buzzer Pin 10 Yellow/Red

Connivence Module, T18 = Brown Connector
CAN High Pin 9 Orange/Green
CAN Low Pin 10 Orange/Brown


I’m fitting a 8p0 919 283 module so will look into if I need to make the PDC sensor power pins common like you’ve suggested

 

[aqibi2000]

Part just arrived with the connectors chopped off the harness. Makes things easy

my above pin out I made seems to be for the old module

 

[Troubs12]

Part just arrived with the connectors chopped off the harness. Makes things easy

Don’t forget to try and stagger your crimps bud as if you do them all at the same place it’ll look like a snake eating an egg lol. Also flex could be an issue


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[aqibi2000]

Don’t forget to try and stagger your crimps bud as if you do them all at the same place it’ll look like a snake eating an egg lol. Also flex could be an issue


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Hahaha, that’s exactly what I see too!


Will be using heat shrink and also twisted pair for the CAN.

 

[Troubs12]

Mate I’ve just remembered you’re using a new parking aid unit aren’t you? Have you checked you gateway? If you see 76 - parking aid you’ll need to change it I think for one that has 10 - parking aid.

I think anyway I’ve not long got up and I’m about 5 coffees short of functioning properly.


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[aqibi2000]

Cheer I’ve just had a closer look and in the provided chopped off harness and it is indeed the newer style

had to skip my coffee for the nursery run

will check that out on vcds

 

[aqibi2000]

Mate I’ve just remembered you’re using a new parking aid unit aren’t you? Have you checked you gateway? If you see 76 - parking aid you’ll need to change it I think for one that has 10 - parking aid.
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Hi,

is there a way to confirm which ID is used between 10/76 to confirm compatibility of my CAN gateway.

Both fitment option seem to be available although it’s called park aid II vs park assist

 

[Troubs12]

Hi,

is there a way to confirm which ID is used between 10/76 to confirm compatibility of my CAN gateway.

Both fitment option seem to be available although it’s called park aid II vs park assist

If you go into the installation list instead of coding and see a box for 10-parking just make sure that box is ticked instead of 76 you should be fine. As the newer units use 10 as an address and not 76 so I’ll be able to talk to it. Also if it’s installed and not ticked the gateway won’t switch it off and it’ll probably drain the battery.

Long and short bud if it’s got 10 tick it and make sure 76 isn’t ticked. I couldn’t remember if it was either or amd in your case it looks to be both so win win


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[George Kost]

I think you have to enable the 76 version for the older style PDC.
Try it and if it is wrong you will see that you won’t have communication with the module. Then try the other one.
I installed PDC+PLA with newer module and used the 10 option.

 

[George Kost]

Isn’t 8p0919283 the old style pdc?
aqibi2000 posted a picture with this part number.

 

[Troubs12]

Ah I was working with the assumption that we were talking about old style sensors with a new style control unit? If I’ve made a mistake then I apologise and it’s probably best not to make any wiring changes based on my previous posts. I’ll check the part numbers listed and update


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[Troubs12]

Yup that’s my bad on that one good spot George For this install you’ll need to leave the wiring as is, splice into Convenience CAN at the control unit in the boot and tick 76 in gateway. Sorry mate god knows why I thought it was the newer unit I must of seen I on a nightshift and read it wrong.


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[aqibi2000]

Thanks guys, sorry only seeing this now.

The Sensor harness matches the chopped off connector which came with he PDC connector, your comments also clarify the reasons for my confusion

Just to confirm the Pin 1 power is ignition switched, and pin 3 is the constant 12v feed isn't it.
Should be all done tomorrow...in the cold.

 

[Troubs12]

Thanks guys, sorry only seeing this now.

The Sensor harness matches the chopped off connector which came with he PDC connector, your comments also clarify the reasons for my confusion

Just to confirm the Pin 1 power is ignition switched, and pin 3 is the constant 12v feed isn't it.
Should be all done tomorrow...in the cold.

Yes mate pin 1 is terminal 15 (ignition) pin 3 is terminal 30 (battery live) and pin 8 is your earth (31 as I’m putting terminal numbers for some reason lol)


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[aqibi2000]

Yes mate pin 1 is terminal 15 (ignition) pin 3 is terminal 30 (battery live) and pin 8 is your earth (31 as I’m putting terminal numbers for some reason lol)


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Cheers! Should be done in the morning then, appreciate the quick replies

yeah I was gonna put kl15/kl30/kl31

 

[Troubs12]

Cheers! Should be done in the morning then, appreciate the quick replies

yeah I was gonna put kl15/kl30/kl31

No worries buddy happy to help something’s gotta pass the nightshifts during a pandemic lol


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[aqibi2000]

Wired it in to a cigarette lighter plug socket as a temp test for both KL30/15 power feeds, just to make sure I can get it working with the current gwm

All working thanks, and it used ECU ID 76

just need to wire it properly

 

[Troubs12]

Nice mate glad it’s all in and sorted


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[aqibi2000]

3.5 year bump! we

have another A3 in the family

Doing this again with now a FL Audi A3, 2012. Where can I find Convenience CAN, it would seem it’s no longer at this ECU (just inspected the large connector for a twisted pair wires for Orange-Black and Orange-Black).

thank you

 

[Troubs12]

3.5 year bump! weView attachment 277756 have another A3 in the family

Doing this again with now a FL Audi A3, 2012. Where can I find Convenience CAN, it would seem it’s no longer at this ECU (just inspected the large connector for a twisted pair wires for Orange-Black and Orange-Black).

thank you

It was moved on the facelift to the bcm so it’ll be all the way down the front of the vehicle however for the facelift install you’ll need powertrain can (drivetrain can)


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[aqibi2000]

It was moved on the facelift to the bcm so it’ll be all the way down the front of the vehicle however for the facelift install you’ll need powertrain can (drivetrain can)


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Thanks for your help again, nice to hear from you again. Looks like I’ll have to use your PLA retrofit guide


However I have a question, where else can the PT can be tapped into since it will be going to other nodes as well. Just adding a direct twisted pair from front to back isn’t really the most efficient thing to do due to CAN specs of max stub length and all, also if there is another ecu further back that is accessible.

 

[Troubs12]

Thanks for your help again, nice to hear from you again. Looks like I’ll have to use your PLA retrofit guide


However I have a question, where else can the PT can be tapped into since it will be going to other nodes as well. Just adding a direct twisted pair from front to back isn’t really the most efficient thing to do due to CAN specs of max stub length and all, also if there is another ecu further back that is accessible.

It was moved on the facelift to the bcm so it’ll be all the way down the front of the vehicle however for the facelift install you’ll need powertrain can (drivetrain can)


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Hey no problem sorry I’ve been abit absent on here life gets in the way a lot also moved on to an 8v s3 (I’ve still got the 8p for the minute though )

The closest PT can connection would be the steering column electrics. Depending on the timeframe you can get pre twisted cable on AliExpress in the correct colouring too.


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[aqibi2000]

Hey no problem sorry I’ve been abit absent on here life gets in the way a lot also moved on to an 8v s3 (I’ve still got the 8p for the minute though )

The closest PT can connection would be the steering column electrics. Depending on the timeframe you can get pre twisted cable on AliExpress in the correct colouring too.


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Thank you for the info. I’ve been looking at the schematics and I’ve decided to just take it directly from the OBD Port pin 8-16, and I’ll be using a twisted pair Ethernet for the CAN itself, and in POE style use the spare twisted pairs to carry kl15/kl31.

Are the can messages between Convenience CAN and PT CAN in the same place so that I don’t need to buy a specific PDC module for a FL car, this is the once I’ve got.