Central locking issues :/

Aaronm067

Aaronm067

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Hello,

I’m new here since last night and since then I have been reading a lot of posts but not seeing one like mine so hopefully someone can very kindly help me.

So, I bought a 1999 v reg Audi A3 8L and found that the central locking pump (code- 8L0 862 257 “L”) wasn’t working along with the remote key fob. Taking my pump out and opening it up showed that the wee graphite impeller is shagged.
My mate had an 03 plate Audi A3 (facelift) and he gave me his pump (code- 8D0 862 257 “E”). I have fitted his impeller to mine and still just the whirring sound for ages and nothing else.
So I put the impeller back in his and fitted it to the car. It works (when it wants to), the key in the drivers door unlocks that door alone and when the key is put in the ignition the other doors unlock too. Locking the car via drivers door locks everything. However more often than not I unlock the drivers door and when the key is in the ignition it does nothing. Roughly 10 seconds later the hazards flash quickly without horn sounding and the only way to turn it off is to unplug the central locking pump electrics.

Can anyone shed any light on where I’m going wrong?
Do I just need to have the key/pump reprogrammed or is the pump no use for my car?

Was looking online everywhere for a direct replacement with the same code but no luck and just out of interest I called my local Audi dealership who told me the code had changed to a “G” on the end instead of “L” and would set me back a lovely £499.02+Vat!!!!!

Please help me haha
Thanks in advance
 
Hi the fuse for the central locking is also linked to the windows and the alarm so check that this hasn't blown.

The indicators are flashing on opening the door manually as the ultrasonic sensors in the car cabin have sensed movement. You can cancel this by putting the key in the ignition and turning. The fact you're not getting an alarm syren means that you're alarm backup battery housed near teh central locking pump has depleted. Thats another snag that you can freely find how to rectify on here.

When your carrying out your fault diagnosis and you need to stop the pump running just pull out the 10amp fuse for the system located on rh side of the dash, nr 38 rings a bell.

I would try a few things. Firstly press your key fob and you should see the indicators flash even with a broken impeller. If you're not seeing this then it means that your current pump isn't coded to your key, so previous owner has probably swopped it out. The pump letter prefix needs to match your oem pump so that you have all the original functionality and the keys work over the radio frequency.

With your mates impellar parts fitted, operate the central locking with the vacuam pipes disconnected, and then by putting your fingers over both the vacuum holes on the pump it should stop if its sensing correct feedback. If it continues to motor then the motor pump is at fault for the impellar breaking.

Should it stop then there is every chance that you have a spilt pipe somewhere. Pinch points such as the doors are common places for leaks.

You can buy replacement graphite parts on e-bay for around £50 max. These should be fitted as a matching set and ensure that all the square grooves line up on fitment for correct assembly.
 
S3 ROCKS said:
Hi the fuse for the central locking is also linked to the windows and the alarm so check that this hasn't blown.

The indicators are flashing on opening the door manually as the ultrasonic sensors in the car cabin have sensed movement. You can cancel this by putting the key in the ignition and turning. The fact you're not getting an alarm syren means that you're alarm backup battery housed near teh central locking pump has depleted. Thats another snag that you can freely find how to rectify on here.

When your carrying out your fault diagnosis and you need to stop the pump running just pull out the 10amp fuse for the system located on rh side of the dash, nr 38 rings a bell.

I would try a few things. Firstly press your key fob and you should see the indicators flash even with a broken impeller. If you're not seeing this then it means that your current pump isn't coded to your key, so previous owner has probably swopped it out. The pump letter prefix needs to match your oem pump so that you have all the original functionality and the keys work over the radio frequency.

With your mates impellar parts fitted, operate the central locking with the vacuam pipes disconnected, and then by putting your fingers over both the vacuum holes on the pump it should stop if its sensing correct feedback. If it continues to motor then the motor pump is at fault for the impellar breaking.

Should it stop then there is every chance that you have a spilt pipe somewhere. Pinch points such as the doors are common places for leaks.

You can buy replacement graphite parts on e-bay for around £50 max. These should be fitted as a matching set and ensure that all the square grooves line up on fitment for correct assembly.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response S3 Rocks!
Going on what you said about the square grooves... mine won’t match up due to the location of the screw holes :/ any ideas?
 
Aaronm067 said:
Thanks for the response S3 Rocks!
Going on what you said about the square grooves... mine won’t match up due to the location of the screw holes :/ any ideas?
Click to expand...

It's paramount that they line up so that the impeller rotating parts can operate correctly. The fact that they don't would say that the previous owner has replaced them with a non matching set. Essentially as they don't match the operation will be intermittent, overspeed and not allow the pump to create the vacuum for opening closing of the locks.

I would suggest buying a second hand used set which you can find on e-bay for circa £50
 
S3 ROCKS said:
It's paramount that they line up so that the impeller rotating parts can operate correctly. The fact that they don't would say that the previous owner has replaced them with a non matching set. Essentially as they don't match the operation will be intermittent, overspeed and not allow the pump to create the vacuum for opening closing of the locks.

I would suggest buying a second hand used set which you can find on e-bay for circa £50
Click to expand...
The strange thing is my mates pump is the same where it doesn’t match up but his was working fine?
I’ve sourced a full motor with graphite parts for £40 from Poland. That would be ok right?
 
The guy says it’ll come with a 12 month warranty too. I’m just about to ask him what that covers
 
Hi Aaron,

Good video. I can only go by my experience. When I had a central locking issue I sourced a new pump that had a set of graphite parts which didn't match up. On transferring the graphite parts to my pump It operated the doors on fitment intermittently and pins lifted slowly and it overran significantly resulting in the impelar shattering within only 6 functions.

In comparison to a 2nd set of graphite parts sourced were the cutouts lined up which worked perfect in all respects.

By ordering a second hand unit I would say it is a sure way forward to rectify the fault. Have you figured out of your existing central locking unit is coded to your key by seeing if the indicators flash on pressing the key remote?

And also ruled out that the pump is working ok by putting your fingers over the ports on operation and seeing if the pump stops as a result?
 
S3 ROCKS said:
Hi Aaron,

Good video. I can only go by my experience. When I had a central locking issue I sourced a new pump that had a set of graphite parts which didn't match up. On transferring the graphite parts to my pump It operated the doors on fitment intermittently and pins lifted slowly and it overran significantly resulting in the impelar shattering within only 6 functions.

In comparison to a 2nd set of graphite parts sourced were the cutouts lined up which worked perfect in all respects.

By ordering a second hand unit I would say it is a sure way forward to rectify the fault. Have you figured out of your existing central locking unit is coded to your key by seeing if the indicators flash on pressing the key remote?

And also ruled out that the pump is working ok by putting your fingers over the ports on operation and seeing if the pump stops as a result?
Click to expand...
Ah I see, since I got the car the key fob has not worked. The original owner said it just needed a new battery in the fob that was needed.. and here we are haha
I tried covering the holes but when the parts were fitted together all I heard was two clicks on drivers door lock operation and then nothing. I opened it up again to find that the replacement impeller has also shattered.

Maybe you are correct and I need to get a replacement central locking unit. I’ve heard that the impeller from a vw Corrado is thicker and is more robust?
 
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If you have a replacement battery fitted for your key and the indicators don't flash when its pressed then your current central locking unit isn't coded to your key, which would mean getting the dealer to do it or a vag com wizard near you thats willing to help.

Hopefully you're second hand repair parts you're waiting on help you get to the bottom of your issue
 
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