Audi A4 B8 DYI UK Retrofit Glove Box Light

AndreBerty

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Hi all,

After reading THIS post and THIS one, and after I managed to fit the glove box light on my own figuring out a lot of things that are not mentioned in the above threads, I decided to come up with a fully comprehensive guide of my DIY UK RETROFIT GLOVE BOX LIGHT on my Audi A4 B8 2.0TDI SE 2010.

DISCLAIMER: This is the way I chose to install the glove box light and will accept no responsibility for any damage/injuries caused by following this guide, others may have different ways to do this, so please use this as a guide only!

For this job, you will need a couple of hours, some tools and some parts.

Tools I used:
- wire cutter pliers,
- a cinch tool wire clipper,
- a sharp cutter,
- some Heat Shrink Sleeving or shrinking tubes to extend and repair the wires,
- a couple of nylon cable zip ties,
- a plastic trim tool to prise a few trims,
- 8mm & 10mm drive socket hex + ratchet wrench drive + drive extension bar.

IMG 1200

Parts you will need (you can try to find and buy this cheaper):
- 2 x 893971632 (Audi part number) - £3.98 each from Audi -> these are the plugs for the light:
Plug
- 2 x 000979133E (Audi part number) - £4.39 each from Audi - these are the wires for the plugs:

Wire

- 1 x Terminal for Micro and Standard Relays 6.3mm Blade; 1 x Ring Terminal; 2 x 1m 16.5 amp, 1mm sq 32/0.20 wires (black and red) from THIS GUYS - they have Heat Shrink Sleeving too.

20140709 5 & R5

- 1 x 4B0947415A (Audi part number) - not sure how much this is with Audi because I head one left from the kit I bought from eBay for my door puddle/warning light.

S l1600

DON'T BUY this one from eBay because it will not fit:

S l1600 1

Now you have to connect the 2 yellow wires with the black plugs and cut in half one of them to obtain the negative connection and the positive connection; you can extend them if you consider so but I ended up to extend just the negative wire (I'll get to it later). At the end of the wire that you will use for a negative attache, the Ring Terminal presented above and at the end of the wire you will use for a positive attache the Terminal for Micro and Standard Relays 6.3mm Blade presented above.

Here is a picture of how it will all look when you had connected all (don't mind my wires colors and the fact that I extended both wires) - I hope you can see the notes:

IMG 11873


FALLOW THESE STEPS:

Move the passenger seat to the back as far as possible and fallow the pics below and remove the trims, screws etc.

Remove fuse box cover:
IMG 1161

Remove this 8mm screw:
4

Remove under the glove box trims:
1

2

After the Trim A was removed:
IMG 1197

Remove Trim C:
IMG 1196

Remove this 2 x 8mm screws under the glove box:
IMG 1199

Left screw:
7

Right screw:
8

Open the glove box and remove 3 more 8mm screws:
10
11

NOTE: Before removing the glove box make sure you have removed all the screws because I counted 6 but I've seen mentioned more in other posts!

ALSO, DON'T PULL
the glove box down straight away, pull it slowly making sure you unclip it from the extra clips that are holding it, positioned mainly in front from where you removed the 3 screws inside the glove box.

At this point, you can unclip all the plugs attached to the glove box and remove it completely from the car and take it indoors and clean it as I did with THIS.

THE FUNN PART:

The positive wire has to be connected in one of the fuses plugs, I used this one:
13

To be able to do that you have to remove the hole fuses plugs box from its spot because the clip that will release your plug it's behind a metal part (hope it makes sense from the pics):
14

You will need to unclip the hole fuses plugs box starting here:
15

This is the clip at the back that will release the fuses plugs box:
16

There are 3 points that hold the fuses plugs box:
17

Remove the pink cover and push down this clip and the fuses plug you need will come out:
18

Once the fuses plug that you need is out, prime the clips and remove the rear cover:
19

Remove the pink part that blocks the way (you will understand) in the next pics; the yellow wire is your POSITIVE (+) that I already plugged in:
21
20

Plug your POSITIVE (+) wire as in the next pic [REMEMBER: your POSITIVE (+) wire is the one that has attached the Terminal for Micro and Standard Relays 6.3mm Blade presented at the beginning of this thread]:
22

Put the plug cover back on and follow the steps backward to mount the fuses plugs box back:
23
24

This is how it should look after:
25

Under the TRIM C, you will find a 10mm screw where you can connect the NEGATIVE (-) wire [REMEMBER: your NEGATIVE (-) wire is the one that has attached the Ring Terminal presented at the beginning of this thread]. Check the next pic to see where the NEGATIVE (-) goes:
49

The damper, break or switch (call it however you want) that turns the light on and off when opening and closing the glove box it is already on the glove box so you don't need to buy this part; just connect the black plug to it like in the next pic:
26

This is how all the connections looked at the end:
IMG 11873


Make sure you plug a fuse to make it all work sound and safe - I used a 20 fuse but I think a 5 will work too:
SORRY ABOUT THIS - FIND THE PICS IN THE REPLY
AF1QipOmJ6Jizehyku_AFEgLMkXkBLeFCOtPDx9G_d1H

AF1QipOxPAxYFqBDQaaxsOE7tXpJ_b0YhKS7l4o3oohb


After all this work, make sure you follow all the steps backward and make it hole again :) and don't forget to reset the error codes with a VAG or OBD plug:
50

The glove box light will only work with the ignition on - here is a small video of the final product:


For those of you that simply can't do this for any reason but want the glove box light mounted PM me and I can retrofit this for you for a small charge; you can find me in Northampton and I can also retrofit the Door Puddle/Warning light as I did on my car:
IMG 0854 IMG 0829

Mike drop ;)
Andre
 
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My glovebox light was removed as part of the recall on the aux heater fire issue. Keen to refit it, so will follow this.

story was the damper on the glovebox was breaking and leaving the light on all the time. The wiring was overheating and damaging the insulation to the heavy wires to the aux heater leading to fire risk. The recall removed and replaced the wire harness and also removed the light.

My damper link was broken but just reglued it with epoxy and seems to holding fine. The issue was the damper was very stiff. Lube was not the solution, ended washing it in water.
 
Dear,

I tried to retrofit glove box, but I got stuck when connecting positive wire, here is pictures of my Audi A4 2014 passenger fuse box, it looks different from @AndreBerty example.
Brown port seems to not have free fuse

Thank you in advance, Vlado.
 

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Hi Vlado,

Same thing happened to me when I did it again on my Audi A4 2015 (that Audi A4 was 2010). It looks like Audi didn’t want to make it easy anymore .

Don’t worry as you only need a positive (+) from there so you can either piggy bank from one of the fuses using this:

a2fd706d9d1ae2353afc34cabe90a71b.jpg

(I didn’t use this as it was sticking out too much)

or just stick in the back of the plug in the positive (+) of one of the fuse - think carefully which one you will use, check a diagrams what fuses you have there, I remember I used a continuous one, meaning the glovebox goes on when I open it even if the key it’s not in.
But that’s how I did it on my car so bear in mind a specialist should fit it for you therefore I can’t be responsible if you cause any damages to your car


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