8L MFSW Conversion

[Tj 0785]

*** eurocarparts exchanged battery under warranty so connected it up with ignition off turned radio on enter pin music on Looks promising turn ignition on I get this happening
Since all my wiring is on the the Bluetooth harness I u plunged that and connected radio on to original quad lock adapter same thing changed all the coding to new Still no different in at a loss to the point where I thinking of biningbthe lot and starting again

 

[tcg]

Aren't you supposed to reset the RNS-E after coding mate?

 

[Tj 0785]

It was doing it before coding aswell and with the modified harness unplugged but yeah your right you are supposed to and probably as warren said to will need resetting because it was unplugged anyway stress full day noticed paint bubbling on the bonnet aswell so I just neede to walk away from it for the day ha

 

[Tj 0785]

So must of reset this about 20 times this morning and still just keeps throwing me back to the pin screen when the ignition is on . So I’m stuck anyone have any ideas about how to sort maybe a crossed wire? Trust me to f it up when Warren’s guide makes it look so simple haha

The thing I do t under standard is if the modified harness is unplugged why it still doesn’t work I wonder if they corrupted the headunit decoding it they say they’ve not as they just use the serial number

 

[warren9022]

Did you reset the RNSE with the ignition off and then turn the ignition on? That’s what I have to do with mine (normally a couple of times before it’ll work).

 

[Tj 0785]

Yeah tried it off and with it on the place that decoded it said they will call round with another head unit and try that for £30 but it won’t be rnse. I think it’s back to drawing board and start fresh again

 

[S3AMJ]

Have you tried downgrading the firmware and then upgrading it again.... just wondering if something there has corrupted for some strange reason.


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[Tj 0785]

No but it’s worth a try if that fails I might look at getting a mk2 rnse strip out the modified harness and get that working back to the quad lock adapter and then try plugging in the adapted Bluetooth harness back in and see how it goes But I really wanted this sorted before I send me clocks to Ian for the colormfa, if not il be doing it i the garage whilst the engine works getting done

I also added the gala wire as I never done this originally but that’s connected to the Bluetooth harness so shouldn’t make no difference when that harness isn’t connected

I’m well and truly stumped

 

[Dohcwp]

well this finally arrived just over 5 months later, gotta love the backwards postal service of South Africa

 

[Tj 0785]

well this finally arrived just over 5 months later, gotta love the backwards postal service of South Africa

View attachment 179319

And I thought Royal Mail were bad

 

[Dohcwp]

And I thought Royal Mail were bad

im pretty sure a country like zimbabwe has a better postal service than SA

atleast they lived up to their slogan We deliver, whatever it takes even though it was bordering on 6 months !

luckily i didn't order another one because the tracking worked properly for the most part and i knew more or less where the package was most of the time.

 

[Dohcwp]

does anybody know what the voltage outputs are on the live and lin wires from the control module, im only getting around 2 volts on the live and around 0.4v on the lin

i know lin is a low voltage bus but it should be about 1 volt minimum to my knowledge and the 2 volts from the live is not even enough to illuminate the steering buttons, if i run a live from the ignition feed the steering buttons illuminate so i suspect i have a knackered controller.

anyway i dont know what happens to all the accident damaged 8v's in SA but getting an airbag is next to impossible, so i settled on a Golf 6/Polo 6R GTI airbag, since it looks the same from the back.

The Golf 6 GTI Airbag and the imported 8v airbag cover

the golf airbag cover hooks around the airbag while the 8v cover, hooks onto the frame, had to cut some of those tabs off on 8v cover to make it work

once everything is screwed back together that cover does not move at all, its on solidly

one difference between the golf 6 and 8v airbag is the white tabs, on the 8v airbag it makes contact with the horn pins when u press down to hoot, on the golf it doesnt, the steering frame compresses the horn pins instead. so what i had was a horn that works when i test it outside of the wheel but once fitted it didnt work as there is nothing to push the pins together when u press down on the horn.

That worked in my favour however as the PFL does not have the clockspring with the additional pins for the steering controls as PFL models never came with a MFSW option back then

The PFL clockspring has 5 pins 2 for horn, 2 for airbag, 1 vacant, i reconfigured the horn to the esp button and used the vacant pin for live and the old horn live for lin, i kept the horn ground for the steering wheel ground.

this is the part number for the golf airbag, if anyone else plaans to take the long route

test fitting the frankenstein airbag

end result

so i highly suspect i will need to get another lin 2.0 control module, if my sherlock deductions are correct

 

[Tj 0785]

What’s the red strip lighting not seen that done on an 8l before

 

[Dohcwp]

What’s the red strip lighting not seen that done on an 8l before

its called electroluminescent wire

i try to be different

 

[Haafiii]

FIRST thank you warren for the instructions! Good work!!!

I have a problem, hope someone can help me. When i switch on the ignition, sometimes the MFSW Buttons starting to blink and sometimes they do nothing. The MFSW Buttons dont work with my RNS-E. I coded it like shown in the PDF. I checked the wiring and it seems right. I also switched the DATA and LIVE pins but it wont work either. Does anyone had the same issue?
Greetings from Germany

 

[hharry100]

Great Write up,
think its time I change from my 8p MFSW which keeps giving me a airbag warning light once the temperature drops below 10c.

 

[Haafiii]

FIRST thank you warren for the instructions! Good work!!!

I have a problem, hope someone can help me. When i switch on the ignition, sometimes the MFSW Buttons starting to blink and sometimes they do nothing. The MFSW Buttons dont work with my RNS-E. I coded it like shown in the PDF. I checked the wiring and it seems right. I also switched the DATA and LIVE pins but it wont work either. Does anyone had the same issue?
Greetings from Germany

Okay guys i found the problem... my steering control module were coded wrong. Now everything works just fine

 

[samuelh_888]

Hi All, I’ve read the start and end of the thread so apologies if the answer is in the middle. I’m looking to for an S3 8V steering wheel into my brothers S3 8L - we don’t need multifunction as it’s single din so it’s only the airbag and horn we need to work. I suspect it’s not as complicated as as the hard work you’ve all given but would it be as simple as plug an play?

Would we need the 8V clock spring or CEM upgrade?

I guess we’ll be looking for some button blanks at some stage.

Thanks in advance.

 

[<tuffty/>]

If you just using the 8v wheel and air bag without dealing with the controls you just need to do the airbag/horn wiring part of this... you can use the 8L clock spring as per the conversion detailed in this thread...

You only need a control module to interface the wheel controls to a compatible headunit but as the 8v wheel controls use a different control software version (or CAN protocol version, don't recall off hand) then its irrelevant anyway...

In theory at least as long as you match up wheel, control unit and audio units from the same family of electronics you could get it all working as its essentially just wiring and a bit of coding... in reality though the audio unit would be a challenge from a fitment perspective plus there is the component protection stuff on the later vehicles that might throw a curve ball into the mix...

<tuffty/>

 

[samuelh_888]

Thanks @<tuffty/> that's a great help.

 

[a2tom]

Morning everyone,

I’m new to the forum but have been lurking for some years as I have a few Audi’s on the driveway.

I must say that this thread is by far the best I’ve read, so informative and generously sharing such information to allow us mere mortals to have a go at this retrofit ourselves.

I am in the process of this retrofit right now and I have followed Warrens @warren9022 guide to the letter but have an issue which I just cannot work out.

So far I have the wheel fitted with the horn working along with the airbag lights going off when the ignition is switched. The problems I really need help with is as follows:

My MFSW will only work if the ignition is off and I provide constant live to the switched live (pin 17 on the K Revision module).

So when the ignition is off and given a constant live feed to pin 17 I have full functionality with the buttons (not the Mode button as the DIS is off until ignition is switched on). The buttons light up when the light switch is on, volume works, the scroll wheel on the left work (skips through radio stations and MP3s on the SD card). This really is fantastic but the issue I have is:

Soon as I switch the ignition on I lose functionality of the buttons and the button back lights go out.

I have checked that there is still 12v between pins 19&20 on the K Revision Module. CAN wires have been swapped around to see if I got this wrong but swapping them stops them working regardless of the ignition on or off.

The harness from the module goes straight to the RNS-E PU harness as per Warren’s initial post.

Does anyone know why I might have this issue of everything not working when the ignition is switched on.

Kind regards,

Tom

 

[a2tom]

Morning everyone,

I’m new to the forum but have been lurking for some years as I have a few Audi’s on the driveway.

I must say that this thread is by far the best I’ve read, so informative and generously sharing such information to allow us mere mortals to have a go at this retrofit ourselves.

I am in the process of this retrofit right now and I have followed Warrens @warren9022 guide to the letter but have an issue which I just cannot work out.

So far I have the wheel fitted with the horn working along with the airbag lights going off when the ignition is switched. The problems I really need help with is as follows:

My MFSW will only work if the ignition is off and I provide constant live to the switched live (pin 17 on the K Revision module).

So when the ignition is off and given a constant live feed to pin 17 I have full functionality with the buttons (not the Mode button as the DIS is off until ignition is switched on). The buttons light up when the light switch is on, volume works, the scroll wheel on the left work (skips through radio stations and MP3s on the SD card). This really is fantastic but the issue I have is:

Soon as I switch the ignition on I lose functionality of the buttons and the button back lights go out.

I have checked that there is still 12v between pins 19&20 on the K Revision Module. CAN wires have been swapped around to see if I got this wrong but swapping them stops them working regardless of the ignition on or off.

The harness from the module goes straight to the RNS-E PU harness as per Warren’s initial post.

Does anyone know why I might have this issue of everything not working when the ignition is switched on.

Kind regards,

Tom

Update for you all,

The fault has been rectified (horn pins around the wrong way in the yellow connector) and I am happy to report that all is working perfectly now. I must thank Warren @warren9022 for this very generous share as it’s enabled me to do this retrofit myself.

Kind regards,

Tom

 

[schwing]

does anybody know what the voltage outputs are on the live and lin wires from the control module, im only getting around 2 volts on the live and around 0.4v on the lin

i know lin is a low voltage bus but it should be about 1 volt minimum to my knowledge and the 2 volts from the live is not even enough to illuminate the steering buttons, if i run a live from the ignition feed the steering buttons illuminate so i suspect i have a knackered controller.

anyway i dont know what happens to all the accident damaged 8v's in SA but getting an airbag is next to impossible, so i settled on a Golf 6/Polo 6R GTI airbag, since it looks the same from the back.

The Golf 6 GTI Airbag and the imported 8v airbag cover

View attachment 189052

the golf airbag cover hooks around the airbag while the 8v cover, hooks onto the frame, had to cut some of those tabs off on 8v cover to make it work

View attachment 189053

once everything is screwed back together that cover does not move at all, its on solidly

View attachment 189054

one difference between the golf 6 and 8v airbag is the white tabs, on the 8v airbag it makes contact with the horn pins when u press down to hoot, on the golf it doesnt, the steering frame compresses the horn pins instead. so what i had was a horn that works when i test it outside of the wheel but once fitted it didnt work as there is nothing to push the pins together when u press down on the horn.

That worked in my favour however as the PFL does not have the clockspring with the additional pins for the steering controls as PFL models never came with a MFSW option back then

The PFL clockspring has 5 pins 2 for horn, 2 for airbag, 1 vacant, i reconfigured the horn to the esp button and used the vacant pin for live and the old horn live for lin, i kept the horn ground for the steering wheel ground.

View attachment 189055

this is the part number for the golf airbag, if anyone else plaans to take the long route
View attachment 189056

test fitting the frankenstein airbag

View attachment 189057

end result

View attachment 189058
View attachment 189059

so i highly suspect i will need to get another lin 2.0 control module, if my sherlock deductions are correct

I have the same PFL clock spring as you. Can you share some info as to how you reconfigured those pins on it for Lin? How did you go with the voltages and did you have to build a Lin/Arduino controller?


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[Smithyy]

Anyone have the pdf for the conversion? Had the link to it saved but the website is not available anymore

 

[S3CCG]

Anyone have the pdf for the conversion? Had the link to it saved but the website is not available anymore

Here you go, luckily I had the PDF saved.

 

[johan(Audi s3 8l)]

Morning Guy's , i got the audi rs3 steering wheel and fitted the horn and airbag works. I just want to confirm will this module work for the steering wheel buttons? 8P0953549F. Everything works as it should on my RNS-E i only have bluetooth Aux input and cd shuttle. I had a rns-d in my car but my TV tuner is not compatable with the rns-e. Everything wired and i did the codeing but the buttons controls is not working. 8P0953549K busy looking arround for one

 

[<tuffty/>]

what year (or part number) is the wheel from? after a certain year they changed the protocol to LIN bus so the 8P modules etc are incompatible with the wheel controls

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Morning Guy's , i got the audi rs3 steering wheel and fitted the horn and airbag works. I just want to confirm will this module work for the steering wheel buttons? 8P0953549F. Everything works as it should on my RNS-E i only have bluetooth Aux input and cd shuttle. I had a rns-d in my car but my TV tuner is not compatable with the rns-e. Everything wired and i did the codeing but the buttons controls is not working. 8P0953549K busy looking arround for one

Been a while so not sure if you managed to get anything working but was recently told about this setup

3dcolormfd – Multifunctional on-board computer in the standard i – Upgrade Your Dashboard with 3DcolorMFD – 3DcolorMFD is a multifunctional display that replaces your standard dashboard screen.

3dcolormfd.com

They do a LIN conversion board wheel module that appears to allow later wheels to work... not looked into it myself as yet but worth a look for yours

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

I am revisiting this mod as I plan to add the same setup to my A2... there are a few obsolete parts listed on the original so will be trying to source alternatives and also adding in some advanced modding to 'ease' installation...

I also plan to remake my original test harness and I may make the wiring diagram of that available if I feel I can present it in a way that is easy enough for anyone to follow... I have been put off doing things like that in the past as its easy to make mistakes if you don't have any experience in wiring and have been bitten in the past from being blamed for others incompetence

The purpose of the harness is to enable coding of the various modules without having to fit them to a suitable car due to the way CAN communicates and the 8L not having the base functionality to do it...

Anyway... one mod I have been working on is to simplify the wheel module as the thing in itself is unwieldy and the slip ring wiring point is a bit sketchy at best...

First thought was to make an adaptor 'plug' to help support a JST SM style 2 pin plug

This is a kind of 'plug n play' solution and will make the wiring of the slip ring a bit more sturdy...

I then went a step further to 'simplify' the case and the wiring and pulled the module apart..

Other than the plug there are only two pins that needs to be wired up (slip ring data feed) so I set about pulling all the unwanted pins off the board...

And then removed the yellow socket as this is also not used

Once done I soldered a JST 2 pin socket to the board for the slip ring wiring...

...and set about designing a case in Fusion 360 I could print out...

Much neater... I was originally going to add a hole over the top of the JST header for the slip ring to connect to but on reviewing the wiring diagram I believe there are a few pins on the big connector that are NC to the PCB in which case I can run the wires over internally to the connector and wire the slip ring there giving a single plug solution...

The NC pins are in front of the connected pins though on the socket

...so I can't just cut the leg and solder the wires there... I need to desolder the plug and double check the relevant pins to make sure they have no traces on them (I think this is just a normal double sided PCB rather than multi layer) and then I can just solder to the underside instead...

I have a few more design elements to do for the case such as securing the halves together and adding fixing points for cable ties and the like before I deem it done ...

I will start up a separate thread on this version of the MFSW conversion which will include adding the BT unit etc and any other mods I do plus printed parts as needed...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Did a bit more work on the wheel module mods...

Desoldered the black socket from the board was a bit of a pain but flux and wick got the job done... I could then more clearly check the connections to be sure what was NC on the board to be able to run the slip ring wires through to the single plug...

Decided to use pins 5 and 6 to reflect the same pin numbers coming off the original location... makes it easier to remember then

Soldered the socket back on and made up the JST 2 pin plug... knowing what I now know I would just solder the wires directly into the board rather than use the JST stuff but I could noot be bothered to remove the plug so ran with it

Ran the wires across the board and over the other side... soldered them to pins 5/6 respectively

Bit of conformal solder mask to ad a little mechanical strength and insulation

Kapton tape to keep everything together...

For the current version of the case (at time of posting) I have added features to the case halves to allow it to clip together with no screwing or gluing and added mount points that take either M3 bolts (holes) or cable ties (slots)

Need to do some testing to make sure its all working as expected and code it up ready for the A2... if it works out ok then I will mod another to use in the S3 or just take the S3 one out and mod that (I have a couple of spares)

All good fun

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Found my VCDS cable and fired up the test harness...

Steering wheel module is still recognised and codable so happy days...

A couple of things proving to be difficult to source are the plugs for the slip ring... the guide originally called for 4B0973605 but these are essentially obsolete now.. you can find on ebay but the prices are silly... but...

...I stumbled on 8R0973605 which looked very similar but was 'split' in half a little differently so ordered a few up and...

Bingo!... (I bought a pack of 20 cheaper than a second hand one on ebay)

The guide also called for one of these plugs to be used for the input to the slip ring wheel side but to cut it up too fit... I have 'found' that the plug for this was used on Mk1 TT (3.2 DSG) and 8L A3 with the 4 spoke MFSW but cannot find a reference for the loom or the plug itself as yet (still looking) so in the meantime I drew up an alternative...

This will allow the use of readily available JST style 2pin plugs to be used for the LIN/12v wires into the clock spring...

... and latch in to keep the wiring secure..

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/TOkrBOQSGsI?feature=share

Just waiting on a bunch of plugs to arrive then will go over the wiring and pins outs checking the current doco and writing it up to allow me to review it all properly as I need to update parts to include the changes I made to the wheel module and include extra modules such as the can gateway and bluetooth module

<tuffty/>