What have you done to your A3 (8p) this week
- Thread starter lea323ci
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Been abit busy so not had change to post on here for a while. Safe to say I’ve done a ton on the car lately but this week I finally got around to my R8 camera install.
Now all I have to do is make a switch or find a pass through as I want to keep my tv retrofit
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Now all I have to do is make a switch or find a pass through as I want to keep my tv retrofit
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Been abit busy so not had change to post on here for a while. Safe to say I’ve done a ton on the car lately but this week I finally got around to my R8 camera install.
Now all I have to do is make a switch or find a pass through as I want to keep my tv retrofit
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Nice one. I remember when I did mine and the hardest part was running the cabling through the boot grommet. Funnily enough I have to fit my friends reverse setup soon now the weather is better. Think I have the Kufatec coding somewhere. From memory it keeps a CANBUS fault when scanning the car. Unless you managed to get around that with the coding?
Nice one. I remember when I did mine and the hardest part was running the cabling through the boot grommet. Funnily enough I have to fit my friends reverse setup soon now the weather is better. Think I have the Kufatec coding somewhere. From memory it keeps a CANBUS fault when scanning the car. Unless you managed to get around that with the coding?
Mate funnily enough when I fitted tv running two shotgun fakra cables through that grommet was a special time so this time around a single fakra and two little wires was a dream lol. If there’s any extra info you can share from kufatec would be greatly appreciated as I’m hoping to find a way of having both without building a switch.
I’ve no faults on mine but then all I’ve done is fit the oem stuff. My rnse is running custom firmware though so maybe that might have something to do with it
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Yeah there’s certainly a knack how to feed through the ribbed grommet. Yeah mine was a custom firmware too.
Address 19 for installation list
Address 6C binary change depending on APS/AHK
Address 10 byte 0
Address 37 change channel
sound about right?
Off the top of my head yeah that sounds about right. I forgot you’re also on it as well it’s been a long week and it’s only Monday
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Few more bits done, creation Motorsport heatshield, stainless dead pedal to match the pedals and heat wrapped the exhaust from turbo to the rear box.
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Well had the S3 rear brake disc's n pads done the other day and what a job it F**kin was , seems as if the spline bolts and carrier bolts had been screwed back in with an impact gun as they where really really tight with no lube on them . ( so last owner must have had that done.)
Friend found it easier to remove rear shock to get into top calpier spline bolt . Now only need to bleed as i av small amount off air in system .
Then it will be front brakes but me thinking after trying to remove bolts with breaker bar ( unsuccessful ) it will be impact gun i will need . Once off a good clean up and some lube and she will stop n handle better .
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Friend found it easier to remove rear shock to get into top calpier spline bolt . Now only need to bleed as i av small amount off air in system .
Then it will be front brakes but me thinking after trying to remove bolts with breaker bar ( unsuccessful ) it will be impact gun i will need . Once off a good clean up and some lube and she will stop n handle better .
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Saturday, about to go to the shops, turn key in ignition aand... won't turn. Will go past steering lock but doesn't make it quite all the way to first position.
Seen a few threads on here about bits of metal inside the ignition barrel breaking off and jamming the locking cylinder, seems like the probable cause.
Down to the last part now, just struggling to get the """security""" shear bolts out. Why these exist is beyond me. A thief who's already got this far isn't going to give up now. An independent garage can easily remove them. Just seems a feature to make the DIYers life a bit more difficult and give the illusion of security.
Tips welcome. Bought an extractor kit but can't get a good angle with the size of my drill / dash overhang.
Seen a few threads on here about bits of metal inside the ignition barrel breaking off and jamming the locking cylinder, seems like the probable cause.
Down to the last part now, just struggling to get the """security""" shear bolts out. Why these exist is beyond me. A thief who's already got this far isn't going to give up now. An independent garage can easily remove them. Just seems a feature to make the DIYers life a bit more difficult and give the illusion of security.
Tips welcome. Bought an extractor kit but can't get a good angle with the size of my drill / dash overhang.
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New ignition barrel arriving today so we'll see how that goes. Still not sure what happened. Apparently there is a security mechanism which locks up the cylinder if it detects tampering. Might have just gone with time.
First job of the morning though, taking out the front seat to fix the height adjuster. First bolt (T50), apply a bit of torque, then a bit more, then... stripped. Can't drill it out, can't hammer it out. There goes my weekend. I love my car.
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Stunning! Wow. I'm floored. I also really like your seats. They aren't Audi OEM, are they?
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Well, I'm not quite sure what to say for what I did... because it's a bit of a mystery.
I was having this real headache of a problem with my alarm system. (Audi A3 8P 2007, USA spec). Once in a while I'd click the fob to lock and while the mechanical lock sound could be heard on all doors, the flashers wouldn't flash and no beep sound. I rolled down the driver's window, locked the car, then reached in to open the door from the inside latch... and the alarm did NOT go off. Bullocks!
But then, on a lark, after locking and knowing the alarm didn't arm, I pressed the panic button, then unlocked the car and clicked to lock. *BEEP!* and *FLASH!* It was armed. Weird. OK, I figured it was a fluke, but it happened again some days later. And the next day it was fine. Then it would happen again. Like a Ghost in the Machine.
Well, finally I figured out why this was happening. The left rear door! Despite hearing the mechanism click, the door was actually not locking. I could open it from the outside. And when the normal alarm arming indicators (flash and beep) came back? That door was locked. So... I did the old "bangaroo" deal. I opened and closed the door a number of times, closing with a little more force than normal. I also rolled down the window so I could open either with inner latch or outer handle. I kept at it a few times. After that? Alarm went back to arming. A few weeks since and it's OK. I don't know if it was just the lock sticking a bit, or if there's an issue with the wire loom for that door... but hopefully if the problem comes back, my brawny solution will do the trick.
I was having this real headache of a problem with my alarm system. (Audi A3 8P 2007, USA spec). Once in a while I'd click the fob to lock and while the mechanical lock sound could be heard on all doors, the flashers wouldn't flash and no beep sound. I rolled down the driver's window, locked the car, then reached in to open the door from the inside latch... and the alarm did NOT go off. Bullocks!
But then, on a lark, after locking and knowing the alarm didn't arm, I pressed the panic button, then unlocked the car and clicked to lock. *BEEP!* and *FLASH!* It was armed. Weird. OK, I figured it was a fluke, but it happened again some days later. And the next day it was fine. Then it would happen again. Like a Ghost in the Machine.
Well, finally I figured out why this was happening. The left rear door! Despite hearing the mechanism click, the door was actually not locking. I could open it from the outside. And when the normal alarm arming indicators (flash and beep) came back? That door was locked. So... I did the old "bangaroo" deal. I opened and closed the door a number of times, closing with a little more force than normal. I also rolled down the window so I could open either with inner latch or outer handle. I kept at it a few times. After that? Alarm went back to arming. A few weeks since and it's OK. I don't know if it was just the lock sticking a bit, or if there's an issue with the wire loom for that door... but hopefully if the problem comes back, my brawny solution will do the trick.
They are Recaro Sportster CS with airbags on....
Got my rear tyres changed, they still had 3mm of tread on them but were starting to show signs of perishing, they were around 4 years old.Have had a slight rumbling sound from the rear for a few months and I thought either a bearing or the diff was on the way out but after the tyres were changed, the sound is gone! I guess that's a case of castellation
Got some Pirelli P7 tyres fitted all round. Gonna be removing my 345mm front and 310mm brakes next week as it looks nice but abit excessive for a 1.9tdi lol
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You lucked out, Dave.
I'm approaching 99k miles now and this summer I started to hear a slight droning noise coming from the rear. In time it started to progress a bit louder and then some test driving on curves started to reveal that the culprit was the right rear. A little louder on taking hard left curves, noticeably reduced when taking hard right curves (weight lifted). Took a test drive with a specialist and he suspected right rear wheel bearings. It was my suspicion too, but I was hoping new tires would get rid of it. And the sound abated a bit... but didn't go way. That's when I realized part of the noise was just the worn tires. Looks like I'm going to have to do the job. I was quoted $900 USD by the dealer, and the local mechanic I trust said $400 USD.
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MOT check on the 350,000 mile ‘09 A3 yesterday revealed a lot of soft metal in places especially both sills, rear boot floor area has 4 holes and also soft at the opening where the handbrake cables go into the body
Needless to say we’ve written it off and it won’t see its MOT in a couple of weeks. It needs a gearbox as the diff is about to explode again so this is just adding insult to injury too.
Lot of memories over the last 13 years, lot of miles travelled (322,000) but at the end of the day it’s just metal will be sad to see it go but hey-ho
Not dead from the common well known fault of conrod failure which is the more annoying thing of the whole lot! I’ll be stripping parts out of it that I can sell on and the rest will be squashed
Needless to say we’ve written it off and it won’t see its MOT in a couple of weeks. It needs a gearbox as the diff is about to explode again so this is just adding insult to injury too.
Lot of memories over the last 13 years, lot of miles travelled (322,000) but at the end of the day it’s just metal will be sad to see it go but hey-ho
Not dead from the common well known fault of conrod failure which is the more annoying thing of the whole lot! I’ll be stripping parts out of it that I can sell on and the rest will be squashed
needed to get an anti roll bar link arm replaced to pass the car through an MOT... but at the same time one of the diesel injectors gave up on me. audi wanted a bomb for it all and even recommended to take somewhere else as it will be a lot cheaper 
so i purchased the link arms myself and got the car jacked up, took off the top nut.... then realised there's a metal strut in the way of getting a socket on the lower. tried with an adjustable wrench but wasnt budging so saved it for another day after I bought the correct spanner and some crows feet so i could torque it back correctly.
Unfortunately... welsh weather being what it is, as soon as i got the tools sorted it was either hammering it down or there was someone/works vans in the spot where i'd work on the car... so just gave up and limped it to another vag specialist garaged and just got them to do the arms and replaced the one injector. much cheaper than the dealership too!
so rather happy i have the car back up and running and it's been sunny again! bit worried that one or more of the other 3 injectors might go... but will cross the bridge when it pops up.
have a few mods I've bought too that I've been meaning to get around to doing, so will hopefully get those done in the next week..... weather providing haha
so i purchased the link arms myself and got the car jacked up, took off the top nut.... then realised there's a metal strut in the way of getting a socket on the lower. tried with an adjustable wrench but wasnt budging so saved it for another day after I bought the correct spanner and some crows feet so i could torque it back correctly.
Unfortunately... welsh weather being what it is, as soon as i got the tools sorted it was either hammering it down or there was someone/works vans in the spot where i'd work on the car... so just gave up and limped it to another vag specialist garaged and just got them to do the arms and replaced the one injector. much cheaper than the dealership too!
so rather happy i have the car back up and running and it's been sunny again! bit worried that one or more of the other 3 injectors might go... but will cross the bridge when it pops up.
have a few mods I've bought too that I've been meaning to get around to doing, so will hopefully get those done in the next week..... weather providing haha
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I've run into that so much. You get the parts you need, the tools required, the instructions on how to do a procedure, then... during the middle of it you find something not documented that causes the whole thing to be stalled.
Having a mechanic you can trust and who won't rip you off is so key to owning an older car. I had my A/C compressor replaced by my trusted mechanic. He did a superb job and it was 50% cheaper than the dealership. 4 years on and the A/C is still running very nicely cold. Even still, I did have a gripe. One of the panels that had been removed was not put back together 100% correct. One bolt was loose and the other not even inserted. There was no structural shimmy of any kind, but thankfully the loose bolt was nestled in a crevice and wasn't lost. I discovered this when I went in to replace a fog light bulb, not long after the work had been done.
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Sorry, I had been meaning to reply to you back in February, but got sidetracked and forgot. On the outside your A3 looked to be in excellent shape. That metal rot... shocking. Very serious stuff. Do you live where roads are heavily salted?
13 years is a nice long stretch. You got your money's worth! My A3 has barely hit half of what your mileage was (I just ticked over 160,000 km). And mine is a 2007 that I've had since new, so that's 17 years of ownership. I just had my anniversary--August 13th. You're lucky you got the TFSI engine. They're supposed to be more reliable than the FSI. But, I've been pretty lucky with mine. Still feels very potent and strong torque on the low end. My gas mileage has slipped a little in city driving. On the highway I can still reach 34 mpg (US gallon) if I cruise at a steady speed of 70 mph (112.6 kmh). My only "wince" point is that when the car is very warm, at idle it can sound a bit noisy (clicks and rattles) almost reminiscent of a diesel engine. My mechanic said it's just normal with those old FSI engines when they've reached this kind of mileage. Mechanically sound, though.
truuueeee, been running fine now thankfully.... touch wood the other injectors don't go now haha!
today i've taken the centre console out as doing the ashtray delete and also fixing the mountings for the ciggy lighter/roof button. was super easy pulling the thing out, hopefully be as easy going back in. thought realised i need another bit of trim for the underside of the A/C unit now the storage bit goes deeper under but having a hard time finding the part, believe it's 8P0 864 138 A 4PK , but trying to find it instock/ reasonably priced is hard
so might just leave it... who's gunna know there's two screws that hold the lighter/switch housing into the centre console but it's broken off and audi had mentioned it's going to be a whole new unit so got some plastic bond stuff to rebuild up a bracket and get that fixed... then will be onto cutting the door cards to put in puddle lights and loom thanks to robin from the forums
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so I took the centre console into the house and built a mould around where the ciggy socket screws in and filled it with gorilla epoxy. dremmeled it down so it didn't interfere with the part and refitted it all with the storage cubby. very happy with the results
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Looks great! I bought the ashtray delete a few years back and just never got around to installing it. But after I upgraded the center console to support double-DIN, there's so little space there now, I'm tempted to do it.so I took the centre console into the house and built a mould around where the ciggy socket screws in and filled it with gorilla epoxy. dremmeled it down so it didn't interfere with the part and refitted it all with the storage cubby. very happy with the results
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Also, saw a post about putting a light underneath the CC. LINK
The trim piece is 8p0864138a4pk
The LED and light guide is 8p0857355.
cheers! and yeah it's simple enough to do so I say send it!
most difficult part of the ashtray delete is putting the forward most hex bolts back in for the side pieces as they are right up in there under the CC, used an extension and a half with the bolt in to get the bolt situated and get it started before putting a ratchet wrench on it and sending them home 
and thanks for the part numbers, I have been looking at them but i can only find them for like $40+ for each part... i.e. $80 minimum.... which is crazy for a tiny bit of plastic with a clear bit and an LED bar xD wish i had a 3d printer lol. I have ordered a 12v red led strip from aliexp along with the 2 pin connectors so going to test that with the unused ashtray connector and see if it works alright. would be nice to have a proper panel under the CC unit though as currently there's nothing there
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Yeah, there are a number of seller sources for those parts, some pricier than others. But given how you really can't see down there, aesthetics doesn't mean anything. So I think your idea of getting an aftermarket 12v strip is probably a better idea. Just find a way to mount it solid enough. Let me know which one works out for you!cheers! and yeah it's simple enough to do so I say send it!
and thanks for the part numbers, I have been looking at them but i can only find them for like $40+ for each part... i.e. $80 minimum.... which is crazy for a tiny bit of plastic with a clear bit and an LED bar xD wish i had a 3d printer lol. I have ordered a 12v red led strip from aliexp along with the 2 pin connectors so going to test that with the unused ashtray connector and see if it works alright. would be nice to have a proper panel under the CC unit though as currently there's nothing there
yeaa true, have also seen that you can remove the ashtry LED and light bar (was a little tricky but not too bad to do), so might test using that as well, waiting on the led strip by the 2nd of sept tho.. hopefully arrive earlier
and today I removed the old chorus head unit and replaced it with an xtrons IX82A3AHL unit. installation was easy as pie, and left off some of the connectors as don't hae a sim card, so dong need that dongle, nor the 4G antenna attached. only attached one of the usb plugs and fed it down behind the climate control and into the little storage cubby (there are two differnt usb's, one with a single port and one with a dual... not sure what the difference is, if any?), don't currently have a reverse camera so disabled the switching screen when reversing in the options and just felt taped all the other leads together and out of the way. also felt taped up everything, 1 to make it look tidy, and 2 so that it will hopefully stop things from rattling
might install the mic at another time as not tested the built in one yet.... so maybe.....
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VERY nice! You're lucky that your old head unit occupied a double-DIN profile, so swapping in a full screen unit made perfect sense. In the USA, we had two options -- a single DIN (red reverse LCD displays) or RS-Nav double-DIN (about 3x as expensive). Going single DIN meant I had to completely redo the center console, with a whole new mounting cage and controls fitting in a lower slot. It was a real pain, but it worked out.
Also, looks like you have a Clear Mount installed between the vents for the phone. I have one too, only I'm using a magnetic mount. I just attached a thin metal disc to the back of my phone case and it works perfectly.
Also, looks like you have a Clear Mount installed between the vents for the phone. I have one too, only I'm using a magnetic mount. I just attached a thin metal disc to the back of my phone case and it works perfectly.
oh ooffff sounds like a lot more involved work there! glad it worked out. yeahhh! I was using the magnetic mount too but with my s22 ultra i found my phone kept slipping and falling off, mostly blame the crappy roads and billions of speed bumps we have here in the UK haha but now my phone lives in the new storage space
woohoo! just uploaded an audi boot up logo to it too, gotta look the part right hahaha