Hi if you are just looking to remove the Air con pump and run the alternator and power steering pump you need a 6PK1123
Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GATES-6PK1123-Micro-V-Ribbed-V-Belt/dp/B005HFLVYC
Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.
- Thread starter desertstorm
- Start date
Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GATES-6PK1123-Micro-V-Ribbed-V-Belt/dp/B005HFLVYC
Thanks so much for the belt number..... So we will no longer need a duel sided belt ? .... Great thank you so much. I found the 3 securing nuts in the engine bay, behind the heat sheild today, that held the AC and blower unit in place today, wow, It was like hide and seek ... heheheee Thanks again.
This is a late post , did this brake cooling mod last year in May but didn't get around to updating this thread.
Well it's all in the F1 news at the moment about Mclaren cheating with brake cooling, so decided to improve the cooling on my brakes. With the BTCC brakes I never had many issues with over heating brakes, especially as I rigged up some ducts on the front and had some hoses feeding cold air to the disc.
But after fitting the DSG gearbox a few times I have had issues after several quick laps of a soft pedal. I put this down to the extra weight of the DSG gearbox, reduced engine braking from the box and the brakes were no longer new, thinner pads don't help compared to new ones.
Decided to add some RS3 brake ducts to the front to increase airflow to the discs.
Audi part numbers 8V0407811 / 8V0407812
https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/ho...e-ducts-retro-fit-for-other-mqb-vehicles.html
I like to quantify improvement and see if they actually make things better so decided to do some measurements with a digital Infra red thermometer and discovered some interesting things.
First took the car for a run out to get a baseline on brake temperatures, It's hard to get a lot of heat into brakes when not on a track especially when they are as big as the BTCC setup is. As it is difficult to repeat exactly the same braking pattern between runs I decided to make changes to one side only and see what difference that made compared to the unaltered side. Front disc temps were in the 180-250 degree range and rears around 75-100 degrees.
So I expected the temps on both fronts to be similar within a few degrees. After 2 runs I discovered the gearbox side was around 25-30 degrees hotter than the engine side based on temps around 210 degrees on the gearbox side and 185 on the engine side.
The rears were pretty much identical on both runs.
Confused I looked closer at the setup and comparing pictures of the discs you can see there is more crazing on the gearbox side disc and the anodised centre is more discolored so this has been running hotter.
Hotter gearbox side
Cooler drivers side disc.
Looking at the brake cooling hose, when I fitted the DSG box it is a little longer than an 02M and the hose had been flattened a little so it didn't foul when the slicks were run on the wider rims. There still looked to be a good amount of area in the hose for flow ,but this is obviously having an effect. so could be just one disc has been running hot causing the problems.
Blocked the engine side brake vent on the front and went for another run. The engine side was now 20 degrees hotter than the gearbox side instead of being 25-30 degrees cooler. The brake cooling ducts obviously work.
Fitted an RS3 duct on the engine side still with the front vent blocked and the engine side brake disc was now about 5 degrees cooler than the gearbox side. So still 20-25 degrees hotter than if the front duct was open.
Modified duct
So from my basic testing the RS3 duct is about 50% as effective as the much more complicated front mount duct with hoses and plates for the hoses to connect too.
I was happy with this as I expect they will work even better at higher speeds on track and any reduction in brake temps helps longevity, also helps wheel bearing and CV joint life.
I revisited the hose on the gearbox side and altered the routing so it was mounted lower down, meaning the hose did not need to be flattened.
I took it out for a blast and did my best to get the brakes as hot as I could and succeeded with more high speed stops, and brake temps were now within 5 degrees of each other across the front.
Modified cooling hose path
Original flattened hose.
Well it's all in the F1 news at the moment about Mclaren cheating with brake cooling, so decided to improve the cooling on my brakes. With the BTCC brakes I never had many issues with over heating brakes, especially as I rigged up some ducts on the front and had some hoses feeding cold air to the disc.
But after fitting the DSG gearbox a few times I have had issues after several quick laps of a soft pedal. I put this down to the extra weight of the DSG gearbox, reduced engine braking from the box and the brakes were no longer new, thinner pads don't help compared to new ones.
Decided to add some RS3 brake ducts to the front to increase airflow to the discs.
Audi part numbers 8V0407811 / 8V0407812
https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/ho...e-ducts-retro-fit-for-other-mqb-vehicles.html
I like to quantify improvement and see if they actually make things better so decided to do some measurements with a digital Infra red thermometer and discovered some interesting things.
First took the car for a run out to get a baseline on brake temperatures, It's hard to get a lot of heat into brakes when not on a track especially when they are as big as the BTCC setup is. As it is difficult to repeat exactly the same braking pattern between runs I decided to make changes to one side only and see what difference that made compared to the unaltered side. Front disc temps were in the 180-250 degree range and rears around 75-100 degrees.
So I expected the temps on both fronts to be similar within a few degrees. After 2 runs I discovered the gearbox side was around 25-30 degrees hotter than the engine side based on temps around 210 degrees on the gearbox side and 185 on the engine side.
The rears were pretty much identical on both runs.
Confused I looked closer at the setup and comparing pictures of the discs you can see there is more crazing on the gearbox side disc and the anodised centre is more discolored so this has been running hotter.
Hotter gearbox side
Cooler drivers side disc.
Looking at the brake cooling hose, when I fitted the DSG box it is a little longer than an 02M and the hose had been flattened a little so it didn't foul when the slicks were run on the wider rims. There still looked to be a good amount of area in the hose for flow ,but this is obviously having an effect. so could be just one disc has been running hot causing the problems.
Blocked the engine side brake vent on the front and went for another run. The engine side was now 20 degrees hotter than the gearbox side instead of being 25-30 degrees cooler. The brake cooling ducts obviously work.
Fitted an RS3 duct on the engine side still with the front vent blocked and the engine side brake disc was now about 5 degrees cooler than the gearbox side. So still 20-25 degrees hotter than if the front duct was open.
Modified duct
So from my basic testing the RS3 duct is about 50% as effective as the much more complicated front mount duct with hoses and plates for the hoses to connect too.
I was happy with this as I expect they will work even better at higher speeds on track and any reduction in brake temps helps longevity, also helps wheel bearing and CV joint life.
I revisited the hose on the gearbox side and altered the routing so it was mounted lower down, meaning the hose did not need to be flattened.
I took it out for a blast and did my best to get the brakes as hot as I could and succeeded with more high speed stops, and brake temps were now within 5 degrees of each other across the front.
Modified cooling hose path
Original flattened hose.