Ceased rear subframe bolt

J

Joeyenz

Registered User
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
70
Reaction score
5
Points
8
Location
Tanygroes, Cardigan, Dyfedd
Website
www.palletables.co.uk
I'm trying to get a new set of suspension on my '05 avant FWD but in order to drop the rear sub-frame i need to get all 4 bolts out about 2", 3 are loosened off but the final one is not budging, I've tried plenty of WD overnight and a long iron bar as extension to my breaker and socket, resulting in one sheared socket extension so far. The bolt hole looks to have some kind of rubber membrane at the base so I assume heating is not an option?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Joe
 
Plus gas or rocol wd-40 is a bit of an allrounder and not the be all and end all.

Use a 6 point socket.

You could try tightening as well as loosening. That may shift it.

If you can't find plus gas, diesel doesn't do a bad job, but only if you can soak it from the other side.

If there's rubber around I would go heating unless your willing to replace it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You need to find someone that has something similar to this.....

$_86.JPG


It has a Bolt Break Away Torque of 700 ft-lb and because it's basically shocking the nuts and bolts off it doesn't do any damage to them. It's helped me undo things that a breaker bar hasn't even touched.

If you find one just keep loosening and tightening up the bolt.

Or do it the way I did my rear suspension....remove the rear calipers off the hub, undo the rear ARB link, remove the rear shocker and anything else that may get in the way and the springs will just fall out as mine did.
 
@carlcall that will work! Dewalt do something similar which Is pretty well priced 300 odd for 1200 breakaway torque. (Don't have one but was thinking about it for when I'm not near the compressor!)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@JonSline I'm looking at the Makita DTW1002Z at the minute which is roughly the same @ 1200 ft-lb of breakaway torque. But I can't justify it at the moment as they only get used once in a blue moon. Definitely worth it when it comes to tight nuts and bolts!
 
@carlcall. Looks like a fine machine if you have makita already. I couldn't find a price except for body only.

All my stuff is bosch 18v. Their offering just isn't as good as dewalt and makita, only. 700nm. Tough decision, different colour tool will play with my OCD!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JonSline said:
@carlcall. Looks like a fine machine if you have makita already. I couldn't find a price except for body only.

All my stuff is bosch 18v. Their offering just isn't as good as dewalt and makita, only. 700nm. Tough decision, different colour tool will play with my OCD!
Click to expand...

It comes in around the £400 - £450 mark if you don't already have batteries and a charger if you go for the 5.0 amp batteries.

Never been a fan of Dewalt as they are just Black&Decker at the end of the day where as Makita are only made by them.

As for OCD on colour themes......I know what you mean!

This is an interesting read though....found it quite a few years back! CLICKY HERE
 
Didn't know that about dewalt, interesting. Never had any of the Bosch stuff let me down and I have given it some serious punishment!

700nm is probably enough for me really, but luxury buy as I have a nice big compressor and a huge impact wrench if I need it. Shakes my shed when it starts.

Fingers crossed @Joeyenz gets his bolt out.

Could try a long breaker bar and a chain ratchet and slowly bring the tension on with that, with liberal application of plus gas.

That's worked for me in the past although it was on a very large MTU diesel (alternator shaft nut) stuff of nightmares!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As above, go for the impact gun. Should do it no probs. As for DeWalt / SnapOn / Makita, etc. I've just replaced my old SnapOn for the Dewalt. Absolute beast of a thing and I got it at a steal. ScrewFix had 1 left in stock online and I think they cocked up their pricing. Picked it up at £169.99....2 days later they had more in stock and the price was back up for £349.99!! That was the kit with 2x 5AH Li-Ion batteries, charger & carry case.

Also, the DeWalt wipes the floor against my old (as in really old) SnapOn. Not sure how it compares to the new one pictured above though. Anyway...I digress.

Go for the impact!
 
  • Like
Reactions: carlcall
Thanks for all the feedback guys, I went for a sealy airtool with 500ftlb in the end as I have been after air tools for a while and as I'm a woodworker by trade have a few cordless makitas already but nothing with the required torque.

I gave up on the ceased bolt after about 40 mins of leaving the gun on it. The car had a cracked and twisted spring on that rear side for about 15k so maybe the drop on it(2-3") has bent up the bolt on that corner?

In the end the air tools made my simple 1/2" spring compressors much easier to work with and got the bits out with a bit of fiddling, just got the full setup onto the car and it's still high enough to get out of a farmyard track!

Thanks again, glad to have this finally sorted after 3 nights out in the cold!
 
Joeyenz said:
I went for a sealy airtool with 500ftlb in the end
Click to expand...

It wasn't this one pictured in the link below was it? I have that Sealey air gun and it's just pants. The "claimed" 500ftlb in reality is immensely less powerful than my old SnapOn gun which was "only" rated at 400ftlb. Fact was the SnapOn could undo and tighten much much much more than the Sealey ever could do, even at max pressure.

Glad you got it sorted in the end though!

http://www.sealey.co.uk/popupimage.htm?Images/Products/GSA02.png
 
My rear coil went on me last week so I'm about to do mine in the next week or 2. Rob sent me a great vid which makes it look fairly straight forward. So fingers crossed I don't hit any snags.
 
Benten69 said:
It wasn't this one pictured in the link below was it?
Click to expand...

Very similar, slightly longer shaft on it which the guy in the factor seemed pretty stoked on but even in the arches with space a plenty I couldn't get the head in properly. It has a supposed 5 torque settings 1-2 blowing air and not turning or hitting and 3-5 just working as it should, no noticeable difference.

Ianski68 said:
My rear coil went on me last week so I'm about to do mine
Click to expand...

I read a load of write ups, if you can definitely drop the sub (even just 10mm), and once the top of the spring is clear about 10mm pull the whole top rubber bushing down and out, it looks like it won't go but once the little rubber fix on the top is clear of the hole you are gold! I managed it in the end with these rubbish laser brand compressors that I cut down about 30-40mm to get em in the space!
 
Did you get this out in the end? I am trying to remove mine, even with the Dewalt Big Daddy Impact Gun, 1650Nm Breakaway torque the little rascal isnt budging!!
 
I know you will have used some form of penetrating fluid on it OLi and you'll have to wait for it to seep into the threads as heat isn't really an option.

But one of the best is Fuchs Silkopen....it's got added graphite to help what it's penetrating on it way but it has a fantastic creeping ability to get deep into the threads in no time at all.

You'll just have to keep shocking the bolt and hopefully it gives sooner rather than later.
 
The trouble is you can't actually get to the threads, or not that I can see... Im not sure if it siezed in the subframe mount or siezed in the chassis thread....

If you know a way I can get the the chassis threads I am all ears!
 
Sorry Oli as I've not had to undo mine so can't help.

Not helpful I know but had a similar problem on a friends car quite a while back and just kept shocking it backwards and forwards.....it was only fractionally moving but it did eventually give....took over an hour or so.

Fingers crossed it comes out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That could be your problem as it's flexing when your using it. Get a genuine impact socket and it should crack off in no time (Fingers Crossed)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I have already strong armed the springs out to remove the driveshafts, it is just getting them back in that is going to be interesting!

I can't get any of the bolts to move....
 
Yeah sounds about right, I managed to get 3 loose but the last one was not budging with an hour or so of air-tools and a 6ft piece steel of pipe, resulting in the same as your pic: many sheared extensions. Luckily I was putting eibachs in and they are about the same size as the SE springs under compression.
 
Avoid using extensions if at all possible, they will take up some of the torque being put out by the impact gun. Try it directly from the gun to an impact socket. Also, heat and shock are your friends!!

Heat might be an issue if there are rubber bushings nearby. I use an induction heater which will allow me to heat the nut or bolt only to cherry red with no flame damage to surrounding areas. Even if you heat the bolt and not what it threads into, the expansion can break the corrosion bonds when it cools down.

An air hammer is also a great tool for hitting the end of the bolt with in order to break up any corrosion bond which has formed. Between a mix of heat / air hammer / impact gun you should get it off. Be careful with the heat though if you don't have an induction heating tool.
 
I don't have an induction heater I may see if I can borrow one, my 1/2" drive 18mm impact socket has arrived so that's the next attempt!
 
  • Like
Reactions: carlcall
Milwaukee m18 fuel is a great bit of kit, but if the bolt is seized all you will do is snap it, try to get some heat into the area of the captive nut
4a92167185f44eaa81b7f5470f0c6c84.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
That's the one I have! DeWalt DCF899! Test on a skidmore rig as the most powerful 1/2" electric cordless impact available today. Only just beating the Milwaukee by a handful of ft/lb. Absolute beast of a thing!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top
Back