3.0 TDi engine removal

[Mikes A4]

After reading through the forum, I couldn't find the answer and hopefully someone might be able to share some pearls of wisdom.

I'm taking the engine (3.0 TDi BKN with tiptronic gearbox) out this weekend to replace the timing chains, as replacing the right hand tensioner unfortunately didn't solve it for me.

I've been on the workshop-manuals.com website and that describes doing the engine, gearbox and subframe as one, however I assume that's derived from Audi's manuals where all their workshops have 2/4 post lifts. Unfortunately I only have an engine crane so removing the engine on its own may be for me.

Just wondering from those who have removed engines from B7's before what the best method is, either remove engine, gearbox and subframe as one or lift the engine out on it own?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[joinerman]

Bumper off, front slam panel radiator air con rad off all in one bit, then just whip out the engine. simples

 

[Mikes A4]

Thanks Joinerman, hopefully won't take too long!

 

[zit501]

Hey MikesA4,

So how did it go?

I have the 2 second rattle on startup on my A6's BMK engine. I'm trying to decide if it's tensioner or lifters, but I'm leaning towards tensioner on the right hand side. I'm going to try replacing that one and see if it solves it.
What were your symptoms?
Oh, and did you get an OEM tensioner or a FEBI one? Also trying to decide on that..

Thanks
Mark

 

[Mikes A4]

Hi Mark,

Got it all done, took me 3 days in the end, a bit slow as I've not done much intrusive work on this car before. Went back together very quickly once we knew more from taking it apart. Took the front off and removed the engine and gearbox together leaving the subframe in place. Pleased to say the hot and cold rattle has gone and the engine is now so much quieter ticking over and general running.

My car is on 140,000 and has always had a slight 2 second rattle on cold start and a slightly louder rattle on hot start, I changed the top right tensioner a year ago from the 'phew that's a relief' thread and the rattle did quieten down but not disappear fully. After driving down to the Alps in January the hot start rattle got worse and was making a loud horrible 2 second clatter, so I decided to bite the bullet before something broke. All the old chains were in ok condition and none looked stretched when I compared them to the new ones, however all the tensioners (apart from the top right) were nowhere as stiff as the new ones (spring wise, easily compressible by hand) and did not appear to hold the oil pressure very well.

I bought the Febi kit for a great price through a friend who works at a large car parts chain, the tensioner casting markings are identical to the old tensioners and the top right one I purchased from Audi a year ago. Only difference is on the Febi kit the Audi rings and VAG part number has been ground off some of the castings, I assume from this they're all off the same production line. I have some photos if its of interest to you. I did have to buy the 3 chain guides for the centre chain around the crankshaft and cam chain pulleys separately (great delivery from Mike through the parts request system on here).

If you want any more info or have any questions feel free to ask.

Mike

 

[zit501]

Hey Mike,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm happy that everything went well for you.

I've ordered a new top right tensioner from my local Audi dealer, who gave me a decent discount so I don't feel too bad not getting the Febi one. It's difficult to get the Febi stuff here in South Africa anyway. I also did kinda want to make sure I have the revised "k" revision tensioner on the top right, as one can never guarantee what revision the Febi or other aftermarket parts are based upon.

The tensioner arrives tomorrow so I'm going to get it in ASAP and see if that solves my rattle. I do plan on keeping the car for a while though, so I will start planning to do the entire chains job. I'm a relatively competent home mechanic, so it's nice to know that it can be done in 3 days at home. Makes the planning a bit easier with taking a day or so off work!

I think I'll plan on getting the Febi kit in future, and I have noticed that some of the guides are missing from the kit to make it 100% complete. Those will either have to come from Audi direct, or I did see this kit: here
It says Febi, but I don't know if they're piecing together the final few bits. Either way, I usually source parts like these with friends or family in the UK, then someone brings them over. Prices are much more competitive over there. I'll obviously do a price comparison against all my options though, Febi vs. OEM, UK vs. ZA.

Hope you have many more trouble free miles.

Mark

 

[zit501]

Just thought I'd follow up for anyone who's reading these threads at any point. I replaced my top right tensioner and instantly the "death rattle" on startup is gone. So as per the Audi TSP in the "Phew! that's a relief" thread, the old tensioners are de-tensioned under reverse cam pressure when the engine is turned off. You can feel the drawn side of the chain is slack whilst the tensioned side is firm. The noise is made simply by the tensioner runner bouncing against the tensioner body, hence their inclusion of a rubber stop to absorb this. There is also no oil relief hole on the updated tensioner, which I believe allowed oil pressure to bleed out of the old style tensioner.

I now have a quiet timing system. Hopefully it stays that way for a while!

There were light grooves worn into the tensioner from the chain links, but this is normal. Otherwise it appeared to be in a good condition, with no bits missing.

Mark

 

[christoph]

Hi, thought I'd ask as im possibly going to do the full kit at some point in future but when you say youve replaced the top right where exactly are you looking from? Inside the car or from the front of engine? As I replaced the left if standing in front of the car about 1.5 years ago and it was quieter but I now get rattle again so wondering if I need to replace the other side before worrying about full kit. Thanks.

 

[zit501]

Hi Christoph,

The right of the engine is the right as it's driving forward. To replace the right side top tensioner you don't need to remove the turbo, to replace the left side top tensioner you need to remove the turbo apparently.
By your explanation of replacing the left when looking at the engine from the front, I believe you have replaced the right side top tentioner, i.e. the easy one which is luckily the one which gives the most rattle on startup problems. (due to the camshaft tension pulling the tensioner closed when the engine is off). This is looking at the engine with your knee caps on the bumper, your left side is actually engine right.

Have someone start the car whilst your under the bonnet and listen for where the rattle comes from.
I know that in the future I shall be doing a complete chains job, but for now my timing system is quiet and I'm loving it.

Mark

 

[christoph]

Thanks, yeah that's the 1 I replaced as im sure it was what I read originally. Problem I've got it some times its quiet on start up and I can be pretty sure everytime it starts when I'm going to listen it will be silent.