Audi A3 8V Reverse Camera (High) DIY Retrofit guide!!

[amit87]

Finally... it is here! A retrofit/DIY guide for fitting a reverse camera (high) in detail to a 8V. I use this forum from time to time and its my turn to return something back! When I had my 8P, I was handing out the SDS hack for the RNS-E mk1 (which I still have should anyone need) but now I have an 8v S3 saloon, this is my contribution.

I would like to thank 2 people

1) My friend (a previous 8P owner) for allowing me to use his VCDS

2) DJAlix (active forum member) for stepping in with his VCDS and coding skills when I was only half able to complete the coding myself. A quick review on DJAlix (Alix), he is most friendly and helpful person and a delight to have met and spent time with! His knowledge of VCDS is exceptional and took no risks! Not only did he get to the bottom of my coding problems but he also added some very cool VCDS mods (Like mirror dip, oil temp, etc). Can't stress how helpful he is and a lovely person!

Now the fun stuff... unfortunately the guide is in much detail and is 30 so pages! Therefore I have created a PDF downloadable from here:

Audi A3 8V Reverse Camera (high) DIY Retrofit Guide (click here to download pdf)
to open the password is: audi-sport.net

if there are any editions to be made, please do not hesitate to contact me. I will ensure the above link always has the latest copy. If the link dies, please let me know and I will update it so it remains live.. enjoy

 

[amit87]

I would like to add to date I have not received my bracket/holder for the module so a complete image of the camera control module is not included. I have ordered it from audi (where it is cheapest) but there is a back order, ordered 2 weeks back but still no date of when it will arrive!

Review on the camera itself... it is VERY useful! I prefer a camera as you can spot anything visually rather than rely on the sensors. It is however not as good quality as my MY13 Toyota Yaris (where the reverse camera is standard). I think the Japanese are over taking the Germans!!

The yaris seems like a true image whereas the Audi has like a "fish eye" lens to fit more in so things can appear bit odd but can easily get use to it.

 

[RO65ERS]

That's heavy! Well done.

 

[DJAlix]

Finally... it is here! A retrofit/DIY guide for fitting a reverse camera (high) in detail to a 8V. I use this forum from time to time and its my turn to return something back! When I had my 8P, I was handing out the SDS hack for the RNS-E mk1 (which I still have should anyone need) but now I have an 8v S3 saloon, this is my contribution.

I would like to thank 2 people

1) My friend (a previous 8P owner) for allowing me to use his VCDS

2) DJAlix (active forum member) for stepping in with his VCDS and coding skills when I was only half able to complete the coding myself. A quick review on DJAlix (Alix), he is most friendly and helpful person and a delight to have met and spent time with! His knowledge of VCDS is exceptional and took no risks! Not only did he get to the bottom of my coding problems but he also added some very cool VCDS mods (Like mirror dip, oil temp, etc). Can't stress how helpful he is and a lovely person!

Now the fun stuff... unfortunately the guide is in much detail and is 30 so pages! Therefore I have created a PDF downloadable from here:

Audi A3 8V Reverse Camera (high) DIY Retrofit Guide (click here to download pdf)
to open the password is: audi-sport.net

if there are any editions to be made, please do not hesitate to contact me. I will ensure the above link always has the latest copy. If the link dies, please let me know and I will update it so it remains live.. enjoy

View attachment 87678View attachment 87677

Hey fella!

Epic write up fella! Thanks for the kind words Was great meeting you and working on such a nice example of a highly spec'd S3.

Hurry up and find another project so we can hook up and talk cars again!

 

[Schizophonic]

Great work. Love to see these kind of write ups. @DJAlix is an okay kind of guy at times.

How long would you say it would take to do and how much was it to install with all the parts? I assume where some of us have the standard mmi unit it would be almost the same?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[DJAlix]

Great work. Love to see these kind of write ups. @DJAlix is an okay kind of guy at times.

How long would you say it would take to do and how much was it to install with all the parts? I assume where some of us have the standard mmi unit it would be almost the same?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Lol at times?

Should in theory be the same for standard MMI.

 

[amit87]

Great work. Love to see these kind of write ups. @DJAlix is an okay kind of guy at times.

How long would you say it would take to do and how much was it to install with all the parts? I assume where some of us have the standard mmi unit it would be almost the same?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

It took me 6 hours! To be honest I was taking pics and typing the step by step as I went along. I was also faced with surprises which I had not anticipated (write up includes these) so had to remove more trim then initially thought. Also the order in which I did it was more random but could probably do it again in half the time. Coding again took me hours but shouldn't take more than 30mins.


Cost me all in all £340 with the extra wires I had to buy.

I would recommend trying to get a camera and control module from eBay then retrofit wiring from somewhere like kufatec. I got mine from another supplier similar to kufatec.

If anyone wants to do this I have got a spare camera module bracket for the hatchback/sportback. I was sent this in error

 

[Salik Sajid]

i got the reverse camera (low) from the bks-tuning.com....havent install it yet but what are the difference in high and low as i got standard MMI 5.8inch

 

[amit87]

i got the reverse camera (low) from the bks-tuning.com....havent install it yet but what are the difference in high and low as i got standard MMI 5.8inch

As far as I'm aware high has moving guidelines (hence the control module) and low has static guidelines. In my opinion the moving guidelines are a gimmick.... Low is more than adequate as it's used just to see what's behind you.

I only paid for high because the spec of the car was already high so I thought I better not skimp

 

[Schizophonic]

It took me 6 hours! To be honest I was taking pics and typing the step by step as I went along. I was also faced with surprises which I had not anticipated (write up includes these) so had to remove more trim then initially thought. Also the order in which I did it was more random but could probably do it again in half the time. Coding again took me hours but shouldn't take more than 30mins.


Cost me all in all £340 with the extra wires I had to buy.

I would recommend trying to get a camera and control module from eBay then retrofit wiring from somewhere like kufatec. I got mine from another supplier similar to kufatec.

If anyone wants to do this I have got a spare camera module bracket for the hatchback/sportback. I was sent this in error

I'll be interested in the module bracket! Mines a sportback. Sent you a pm my friend.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[cuke2u]

Finally... it is here! A retrofit/DIY guide for fitting a reverse camera (high) in detail to a 8V. I use this forum from time to time and its my turn to return something back! When I had my 8P, I was handing out the SDS hack for the RNS-E mk1 (which I still have should anyone need) but now I have an 8v S3 saloon, this is my contribution.

I would like to thank 2 people

1) My friend (a previous 8P owner) for allowing me to use his VCDS

2) DJAlix (active forum member) for stepping in with his VCDS and coding skills when I was only half able to complete the coding myself. A quick review on DJAlix (Alix), he is most friendly and helpful person and a delight to have met and spent time with! His knowledge of VCDS is exceptional and took no risks! Not only did he get to the bottom of my coding problems but he also added some very cool VCDS mods (Like mirror dip, oil temp, etc). Can't stress how helpful he is and a lovely person!

Now the fun stuff... unfortunately the guide is in much detail and is 30 so pages! Therefore I have created a PDF downloadable from here:

Audi A3 8V Reverse Camera (high) DIY Retrofit Guide (click here to download pdf)
to open the password is: audi-sport.net

if there are any editions to be made, please do not hesitate to contact me. I will ensure the above link always has the latest copy. If the link dies, please let me know and I will update it so it remains live.. enjoy

View attachment 87678View attachment 87677

A guide I would like to read but unfortunately the security on it makes this impossible, is there anyway you could remove it please?

 

[Dave-o]

I would like to add to date I have not received my bracket/holder for the module so a complete image of the camera control module is not included. I have ordered it from audi (where it is cheapest) but there is a back order, ordered 2 weeks back but still no date of when it will arrive!

Review on the camera itself... it is VERY useful! I prefer a camera as you can spot anything visually rather than rely on the sensors. It is however not as good quality as my MY13 Toyota Yaris (where the reverse camera is standard). I think the Japanese are over taking the Germans!!

The yaris seems like a true image whereas the Audi has like a "fish eye" lens to fit more in so things can appear bit odd but can easily get use to it.

The car company that offers a rear view camera with about a 150 meter focal point earns my kudos. This would be very helpful to those of us who occasionally exceed the speed limit.

 

[Schizophonic]

A guide I would like to read but unfortunately the security on it makes this impossible, is there anyway you could remove it please?

whats the problem with accessing it?

The car company that offers a rear view camera with about a 150 meter focal point earns my kudos. This would be very helpful to those of us who occasionally exceed the speed limit.

U wht m8?

 

[pburv]

A guide I would like to read but unfortunately the security on it makes this impossible, is there anyway you could remove it please?

The password is AUDI-SPORT.NET It says it in the post........
edit...it should be in lower case....lol

 

[Dave-o]

whats the problem with accessing it?



U wht m8?

You know, sometimes it's hard to see what type of (police) car is following back there.

 

[amit87]

A guide I would like to read but unfortunately the security on it makes this impossible, is there anyway you could remove it please?

I have removed the open password. I noticed with some PDF viewers on mobile devices that it never prompted for a password, just refused to open so I do appologise. More and more people are using tablets I guess so best i take it off, my aim was to share anyways.

 

[amit87]

The car company that offers a rear view camera with about a 150 meter focal point earns my kudos. This would be very helpful to those of us who occasionally exceed the speed limit.

If you're exceeding the speed limit you would cover 150m in about 4seconds or less.... police would have caught you way before! I am sure when I got caught on the M6, I was clocked by a radar gun on a bridge (****** kendal! notorious for it!) wayyyy before I even saw him on the bridge!

 

[Dave-o]

If you're exceeding the speed limit you would cover 150m in about 4seconds or less.... police would have caught you way before! I am sure when I got caught on the M6, I was clocked by a radar gun on a bridge (****** kendal! notorious for it!) wayyyy before I even saw him on the bridge!

So, you're saying they catch you with radar from behind?

 

[amit87]

So, you're saying they catch you with radar from behind?

A police radar always knows it position. The radar signal travels at a known speed... the time is the variable... trust me they could probably work out your speed if they were in space!

IF you;re speeding and the police have noticed and you carry on, if they have recording equipment to measure and capture you doing it, you will get caught! simples.

Its not "whats behind you" its more "what have you passed".

 

[Dave-o]

A police radar always knows it position. The radar signal travels at a known speed... the time is the variable... trust me they could probably work out your speed if they were in space!

IF you;re speeding and the police have noticed and you carry on, if they have recording equipment to measure and capture you doing it, you will get caught! simples.

Its not "whats behind you" its more "what have you passed".

Apologies for hijacking this thread a little.

It seems that radar detectors still have some merit if you can be caught even if being followed from behind. Speed detection from the front is usually done with laser nowadays which is much more difficult to detect - in advance!

 

[RB_172]

I've been wanting one of these now since buying my car last year. I looked at having it done by one of the retrofit places but couldn't justify the ~£900 they wanted for it.

Now you've very kindly put this guide together, I've decided to give it a go myself and have ordered what I hope is the full kit from vagtec.co.uk for a similar price to what you said yours cost you.

They tell me it's being sent tomorrow, so I hope to start breaking things just as soon as it turns up and the rain looks like it'll hold off for a day or two.

 

[amit87]

I've been wanting one of these now since buying my car last year. I looked at having it done by one of the retrofit places but couldn't justify the ~£900 they wanted for it.

Now you've very kindly put this guide together, I've decided to give it a go myself and have ordered what I hope is the full kit from vagtec.co.uk for a similar price to what you said yours cost you.

They tell me it's being sent tomorrow, so I hope to start breaking things just as soon as it turns up and the rain looks like it'll hold off for a day or two.

If you find after using the guide that I can make adjustments to it please do not hesitate to update me with require changes. Hope it all goes well

 

[jungle650]

I've been wanting one of these now since buying my car last year. I looked at having it done by one of the retrofit places but couldn't justify the ~£900 they wanted for it.

Now you've very kindly put this guide together, I've decided to give it a go myself and have ordered what I hope is the full kit from vagtec.co.uk for a similar price to what you said yours cost you.

They tell me it's being sent tomorrow, so I hope to start breaking things just as soon as it turns up and the rain looks like it'll hold off for a day or two.

Pls keep us posted as keeping a close eye on this as I too would like to complete this mod.

Can I just clarify what u have bought from Vagtec?

* APS advanced wiring harness for rear camera
* OEM retofit camera kit
* Camera module bracket

*** did u also buy the Codier Dongle. Or do u not need this with VCDS?

Thx have to re-read through the guide to get my head around it.

Thx Jungle

 

[RB_172]

The only things I've ordered from them are:

1. "Genuine Audi OEM Retrofit Kit - Rear View Camera (High) - A3 8V"

http://vagtec.co.uk/eshop/audi/a3/a...fit-kit-rear-view-camera-high-audi-a3-8v.html

2. "Removal Release Tool Keys"

http://vagtec.co.uk/eshop/audi/a3/a3-8v/removal-release-tool-keys.html

I'm hoping number 1 contains everything I need... otherwise it isn't really a 'Kit' !

As part of number 1, I've ordered the camera module mount too as I don't appear to already have it in the boot compartment.

The removal keys are to save me attempting to use a screwdriver or whatever when removing the unit from the glovebox.

I've got a (genuine) VCDS cable, so no problem there.

 

[cuke2u]

The password is AUDI-SPORT.NET It says it in the post........
edit...it should be in lower case....lol

You misunderstood, I cannot find anywhere to put in a password on my tablet, it just errors because it can't open the pdf. It is the same with win 10 if you use the built in pdf reader.
Just seen your second post, thanks for doing that and now I can read it ok...

 

[pburv]

You misunderstood, I cannot find anywhere to put in a password on my tablet, it just errors because it can't open the pdf. It is the same with win 10 if you use the built in pdf reader.
Just seen your second post, thanks for doing that and now I can read it ok...

No worries mate...Glad to help...
It's quite a good and in depth read by amit 87 He's done a good job...
Are you going to attempt this? If so let us all know how you get on...

 

[amit87]

Pls keep us posted as keeping a close eye on this as I too would like to complete this mod.

Can I just clarify what u have bought from Vagtec?

* APS advanced wiring harness for rear camera
* OEM retofit camera kit
* Camera module bracket

*** did u also buy the Codier Dongle. Or do u not need this with VCDS?

Thx have to re-read through the guide to get my head around it.

Thx Jungle

Just need VCDS. Don't get done bungle a vcds owner some beer money. Should take 30mins 1hr max to code.

 

[amit87]

The only things I've ordered from them are:

1. "Genuine Audi OEM Retrofit Kit - Rear View Camera (High) - A3 8V"

http://vagtec.co.uk/eshop/audi/a3/a...fit-kit-rear-view-camera-high-audi-a3-8v.html

2. "Removal Release Tool Keys"

http://vagtec.co.uk/eshop/audi/a3/a3-8v/removal-release-tool-keys.html

I'm hoping number 1 contains everything I need... otherwise it isn't really a 'Kit' !

As part of number 1, I've ordered the camera module mount too as I don't appear to already have it in the boot compartment.

The removal keys are to save me attempting to use a screwdriver or whatever when removing the unit from the glovebox.

I've got a (genuine) VCDS cable, so no problem there.

I got my kit from Vagtec too and for something new it's a good price.

HOWEVER the power is only 1 foot long so will need extending. If you want to put it to the precise fuse position please buy repair wire too from audi.

My CAN high and low was about 1 metre short so I had to extend these too

If you have a sportback/hatchback I am sure you will get the correct bracket but it's £12 from audi.... vagtec sell for £18. Saloon bracket is £18 from audi and don't think vagtec will supply this one. My bracket took 6 weeks to arrive. Only got it last week for my saloon

 

[amit87]

It's a rear side trim removal job to fit bracket. Took me 20minutes

 

[jungle650]

I got my kit from Vagtec too and for something new it's a good price.

HOWEVER the power is only 1 foot long so will need extending. If you want to put it to the precise fuse position please buy repair wire too from audi.

My CAN high and low was about 1 metre short so I had to extend these too

If you have a sportback/hatchback I am sure you will get the correct bracket but it's £12 from audi.... vagtec sell for £18. Saloon bracket is £18 from audi and don't think vagtec will supply this one. My bracket took 6 weeks to arrive. Only got it last week for my saloon

So if the Power and CAN High / Low cables are all short for the car from the kit... Is it worth just buying the additional additional wiring harness loom which looks like it comes with metres of cable. Rather than making new cables or joins to the kit? If using the Audi Repair wire @ £12 each plus delivery ..how many of those are required and what other wires/ connectors ? Thx

 

[jungle650]

Sorry for the questions, for some reason I can only view the PDF on my phone, (which is not the best way to view it). If I try to view on a MAC or Windows 10 machine it asks for password and the one mentioned in the thread does not seem to work.

thx

 

[pburv]

Sorry for the questions, for some reason I can only view the PDF on my phone, (which is not the best way to view it). If I try to view on a MAC or Windows 10 machine it asks for password and the one mentioned in the thread does not seem to work.

thx

That's strange? I just clicked on the link and it downloaded straight away..No need for the password any more ....
ps my operating system is windows 10....

 

[jungle650]

That's strange? I just clicked on the link and it downloaded straight away..No need for the password any more ....
ps my operating system is windows 10....

Now u are just trying to make me look silly... honest it won't work !! downloads and shows error !

EDIT - Just downloaded Adobe Reader and now I can finally read it !.. Very odd... must have been an issue somehow with the standard Windows 10 reader. But it deff will not open on a Mac. That asks for a password.

 

[amit87]

I have an editing password set and it's compatibility is set to Adobe 10 or newer I think. Apologies if this is causing some of you issues.

£12 is for the sportback/hatchback bracket. Repair wire is about £4.50 from audi and you only need 1.... comes with two ends connectors but you only need one end so can cut in half.

With regards to wire I bought £10 worth from halfords.... 1x 8amp red wire for power.... 1x 5amp green wire for CAN high and 1x 5amp blue wire for CAN low. They are on 5m reels so you will have ample wires left. I chose different colours to help me identify the CAN high/low. If you don't car just buying 1x 8amp wire.

People will say it's not good to use these wires for CAN high/low but I was mid install on a Saturday afternoon when realised was short.... and infotainment CAN is not that important and I've had no problems. I did twist the wires round each other. If you can buy 2m (to be safe) actually CAN bus wiring. It's common wiring for computers so eBay it

 

[jungle650]

I have an editing password set and it's compatibility is set to Adobe 10 or newer I think. Apologies if this is causing some of you issues.

£12 is for the sportback/hatchback bracket. Repair wire is about £4.50 from audi and you only need 1.... comes with two ends connectors but you only need one end so can cut in half.

With regards to wire I bought £10 worth from halfords.... 1x 8amp red wire for power.... 1x 5amp green wire for CAN high and 1x 5amp blue wire for CAN low. They are on 5m reels so you will have ample wires left. I chose different colours to help me identify the CAN high/low. If you don't car just buying 1x 8amp wire.

People will say it's not good to use these wires for CAN high/low but I was mid install on a Saturday afternoon when realised was short.... and infotainment CAN is not that important and I've had no problems. I did twist the wires round each other. If you can buy 2m (to be safe) actually CAN bus wiring. It's common wiring for computers so eBay it

Ok Thx for quick response. Will look at wiring. Reading through the guide I am with you all the way until the section 8. Where you talk about connecting wires to Designator B&E and F and splicing wires. There are no pics of connectors, but is this just straight forward when you get that far, or is there anything else you need to be aware of.

Apologies for all of the silly / daft questions, I am just trying to make sense of it all, before I pull my car apart and find myself in a hole.

Thx

 

[amit87]

Haha mate they are not daft! It's better to be sure then unsure as you can cause more harm then good. I did HOURS of research hence made the guide so my new found knowledge was not wasted on one install haha.

As long as you are comfortable with slicing wires you'll be fine. The information like designator B and E is basically connector B and E of the quadlock on the back of the MMI. The pins are numbered and all wiring info is prior to the DIY install in the guide.

F is fuse block C fuse 18 (FC18).

fusebox is a b!tch to get good access behind. There are lack of images towards the end because I was 6 hrs in and rain was forecasted and needed to get it all back together before it rained haha.

I read this guide for helping me out in the connector in the fusebox

http://www.my-gti.com/601/addition-...olf-jetta-passat-eos-scirocco-rabbit-fuse-box

 

[jungle650]

Haha mate they are not daft! It's better to be sure then unsure as you can cause more harm then good. I did HOURS of research hence made the guide so my new found knowledge was not wasted on one install haha.

As long as you are comfortable with slicing wires you'll be fine. The information like designator B and E is basically connector B and E of the quadlock on the back of the MMI. The pins are numbered and all wiring info is prior to the DIY install in the guide.

F is fuse block C fuse 18 (FC18).

fusebox is a b!tch to get good access behind. There are lack of images towards the end because I was 6 hrs in and rain was forecasted and needed to get it all back together before it rained haha.

I read this guide for helping me out in the connector in the fusebox

http://www.my-gti.com/601/addition-...olf-jetta-passat-eos-scirocco-rabbit-fuse-box

Ok that looks interesting... yikes... After 6 hours I bet that was a bit daunting !...Ok last silly question of the evening...( thanks for your patience ) How do you splice into an existing wire which is going into those pink connectors? Pushing a new wire into an empty slot is no problem I am guessing, Joining 2 wires together is no problem. But splicing into one which is already in the connector, not sure I would know the best course of action. Do you remove, Do you cut further back and make a join of the 2 wires??

Sorry if I am being a plonker.. Just not quite sure about the MMI splice. All the rest I think I would have a good crack at.

 

[amit87]

Haha ask many more if it makes you feel more comfortable. Splice is a universal term.... so basically a join. I then just electrical taped round it. As the image below.... image the black wire being the wire you want to splice into and red one being the one to add to it.... I cut the sleeve with a Stanley knife carefully and then wrapped the red wire round and tapped up. It's a good enough connection my electrical engineer friend said

 

[jungle650]

View attachment 89250 Haha ask many more if it makes you feel more comfortable. Splice is a universal term.... so basically a join. I then just electrical taped round it. As the image below.... image the black wire being the wire you want to splice into and red one being the one to add to it.... I cut the sleeve with a Stanley knife carefully and then wrapped the red wire round and tapped up. It's a good enough connection my electrical engineer friend said

Ok thx. There are splice connectors as well which can be used, ( just having a quick google ) but I am guessing its tight behind there hence why you choose to do as you suggested. You mention removal of the fuse box being ... er....difficult and a distinct lack of room for good access. Exactly how much did you swear during that process. I had a few choice words when I was just installing a dash cam, let alone pulling the MMI out and splicing. Thats the only thing that I need to sleep on... As you mentioned, you could easily make a royal mess of it and then you are up a creak without a paddle if it all goes pear on the last hurdle with the MMI wiring.

Thx

 

[amit87]

Haha I find the more **** and confident your are.... The less likely something will go wrong. I ripped apart trim using trim removal tools as if it's a £200 car.... no damage. In the past I've done stuff to older cars taking car as if it's a £1mil car and broken clips etc.

glovebox was fine once removed.... just getting behind and putting in fusebox connector. Other bits weren't much if a ball ache. But back end of car routing and installing camera is DEFINATELY the easy bit.

I was told them splice connectors aren't that good and my splicing method created a better more reliable connection.... and it's £free as no splice connectors used just some tape haha