advice needed

lbs3black

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just had a new clutch flywheel slave ,master clylinder fitted now I have slight crunch in 3rd gear pedal feels soft abs light on no real power can here the turbo spool speedo decides to work when it wants to before the car went in for the clutch it ran fine the codes I have are
01276
16885
17963
16487
any help or advice would be helpful cheers
 
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64): Signal Outside Specifications
16885/P0501/001281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G22): Implausible Signal
17963/P1555 - Boost Pressure Control: Upper Limit Exceeded
16487/P0103/000259 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too High
 
So were looking at speed sensor the one on the gearbox ?
Maf sensor
N75 valve or divertor or vacuum leak
The abs wasn't on before I've never had any issues could it be down to bleeding as the clutch and break pedals feel softer than before also I've noticed there are only 2 green fuses on top of the battery should there be three
 
Should be three green fuses, did you pressure or vacuum bleed the brakes, as old school pumping the pedal doesn't work, if you use a eezi bleed, don't use more than 15psi pressure, as it can blow the seals in the master cylinder.
 
I don't know how the clutch was bled I'll have to ask the mechanic what he did
 
When I was looking at this - I think there is an ABS cycle on VCDS - which properly pressurises the ABS module - also slamming your foot on the brakes apparently helps get the air out those pipes, but it was quite rare to get air in there. the guide regarding maximum pressure when bleeding brakes is 12-15psi but without the proper cycle you need 40psi - so other damage would happen. the clutch pedal bleeding issues people had put me off trying to bleed the clutch.
 
Where did you get 40psi from? no pressure bleeder I have used would need this and would do more harm than good... you aren't getting mixed up with vacuum bleeders that use air pressure to draw fluid out rather than push it through?

Bleeding the clutch (concentric slave)... this is typically done with a combination of pumping the clutch pedal (this gets fluid into the slave cylinder) then releasing air from the bleed nipple... air should rise to the top after pumping the pedal 4 or 5 times then you can undo the bleed nipple letting gravity do its thing... having a vacuum bleeder helps but a eezi bleed will work just as well (not at 40psi of course)

One thing that gets over looked when brake fluid is replaced is the clutch... it shares the fluid from the brake reservoir... if you change the fluid or or have it changed then the clutch should also be bled to clean out the old water infused fluid

<tuffty/>
 
I am sure I read the comment on here that to clear the ABS module or AIR without VCDS to cycle the pump - you need a crazy high PSI - which would cause other damage, probably confused. I would have found this when I had a "long pedal" after letting the fluid drain dry changing a caliper but you mentioned the MC nipples.
 
Found something unplugged at the bottom of aux belt plugged it back in only had 2 green fuses at top of battery so put the 3rd in cleared the abs code and it's not come back on as yet so hopefully sorted also changed dogbone mount but still crunching in 3rd so I'm going to change oil ,fluid get the clutch bled I need a speed sensor where is the sensor located
 
Speed sensor is on the gearbox towards the back of the casing

20140316_114954.jpg


<tuffty/>
 

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