What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

Mine went at 133k with annual servicing since the car was 4 years old, maybe not with the best oil in the world, but it was done annually, by an independent who said they were Audi specialists, in blackwater.
The problem Paul, was the balance shaft keyway was often not centred accurately; also by design it was very loose, to prevent a twisting torque snap, that would never happen, and with 77mm the hex key was only into the keyway for about 12mm. So for some if not all (they all will fail at some point no matter) even the most diligent and regular OCIs could not prevent the inevitable. I don't think it was calculated obsolecence or even penny pinching, I think it was more German hubris in engineering (software material design engineering rather than actual physical testing) that exist more and more even today - wetbelts for example.

The later B8 2.0 tdis (late to post 2010-15) with the 100mm hex key are not immune either. All they did was extend the keyway but leaving the first 20 or so mm, I can't remember how much completely loose, so that you got 23mm in the balance shaft rather than 12mm in the same sloppy keyway (you can see some denial and hubris again in that engineering revision). Graham from KMB says many of those have failed too. The only and permanent solution is such as KMB's which is a hardened chrome vanadium insert, properly centred and much tighter fit, right from the edge, so using something like 35mm of the revised solid 100mm hex key, to much closer tolerances than Audi/VAG themselves.

I should add, as I said before, good regular OCIs of 6K or thereabouts, will delay the inevitable, it was just with yours it was most likely one of those improperly centred, mine was most likely and accidentally better centred - the tip edges of the hex key only just touch the loose journal on the balance shaft (and oil pump), so any slight off centreing will greatly speed up wear too. It's a gamble in the end not worth taking. I was in an Uber the other day (a Goddamned Tesla Y - horrible car but that's another story) and the driver had one of these PD 140s in a Passat that finally went at 350K - they got very regular servicing and were warm all day, hence the longevity there.
 
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As the weather is nice, I got eid of the dust and pollen that was clinging to the bodywork... just a good old wash. Car has been problem free for a while now, it's just a nice ride.
 
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As the weather is nice, I got eid of the dust and pollen that was clinging to the bodywork... just a good old wash. Car has been problem free for a while now, it's just a nice ride.
Same here, although I did use BH Touchless - amongst the best snow foam out there. Then QDX Graphene V2 as a quick detailer. Did all the glass inside....to be honest, I'm finding just hot water on a microfibre gently wrung out so it's still pretty wet to clean the glass and a dry microfibre to dry them off, and the glass comes up very nice indeed.

It even cuts through the haze I get as I smoke in the Golf - never smoked once in the Audi or the Subaru though.

Paid special attention to the parking sensors, gave them a detailed clean, very very gently with a tyre brush of all things, it's medium soft. Gentle rinse, so will see if my parking sensor woes was from them just being dirty from the nasty sandy rain we've had recently - I doubt it as we've had sandy rain for years and has never caused a problem, but worth a try nonetheless. They worked fine a few times earlier, then failed again when I got home at lunchtime - I've added my 2p into a thread recently put up by someone with exactly the same issue I'm having.

Got into the fuel flap / cap area with a soft brush and a mild BH Surfex solution and a gentle rinse....mint again, and water drain hole / pipe still clear.
Tomorrow will vacuum and clean the rubber mats.
Gotta say, the QDX Graphene is insanely good. Wouldn't be without it, but I will of course use a decent proper wax soon - Collinite 845 Insulator Wax for the win. Spreads on so thin with a super soft pad / Rupes machine.

Liking Esso Supreme diesel, paid £2.15 a litre though, man that sucked.....bad.
 
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not really did a goodjob this time i just wanted the dust gone... read that as: snowfoam applied with a handsprayer (cheapest snowfoam in the UK) followed by a rinse, and a good old shammy dry since this was just an inbetween clean... I breakout the expensive stuff when i know I'll polish the car again. i just can't be bothered at the moment. but inbetween washes? nope i have the cheapest 2 pounds a liter bottle of snowfoam and carwash... they'll do just fine lol.
 
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So last night the sensors seemed ok, and after all that washing I did....wind, heavy rain and hail :rockwoot: :rockwoot:
 
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Same here, although I did use BH Touchless - amongst the best snow foam out there. Then QDX Graphene V2 as a quick detailer. Did all the glass inside....to be honest, I'm finding just hot water on a microfibre gently wrung out so it's still pretty wet to clean the glass and a dry microfibre to dry them off, and the glass comes up very nice indeed.
I've really got to start washing my car myself, again, like you guys. I always take it to a valeting place, they do a good job but perhaps I go too often lol. The bonnet respray has had to put on hold as there was some significant laquer peeling on the rear bumper rear OS wheel edge, so I got that resprayed instead. The chemicals they use in valeting are not good for paintwork. The bonnet laquer peeling is hardly noticeable, except to me so it can wait, for the moment, and I hand touched those spots with a laquer paint. Had the NS wing buffed again at the paintshop too, it had just ever so slightly faded. Both new wings have held up wonderfully (zero rust) since fitting around 4 years ago, but they have had one or two correction repsprays each to get right, cosmetically. The alloys have held up too perfectly to valeting chemicals; cheap refurbs I had in the past soon started to peel; these are quality shotblasted/powdercoated. But all in all valeter's chemicals = not good, so back to hand wash. It's just difficult where I live, not laziness - huge garden and carpark but getting to the water/electricity supply is problematic, because of the way the very old property is laid out -carpark a good 30 metres plus away.

So last night the sensors seemed ok, and after all that washing I did....wind, heavy rain and hail
Fingers crossed, Matt; the old Italian tune up to the rescue again lol; these tough old oil burner lumps respect it, once in a while.:racer:
 
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Does anyone have experience with mudflaps? I've always been against them, as they seem to go with Wurther's originals, for old folks, lol. And I'm unsure if they add road noise. But the sills take a battering from stonechips. Also when I get the bonnet resprayed this time I'm going to get him to use black primer, as the white primer is what looks bad with stone chips mostly.
 
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I've really got to start washing my car myself, again, like you guys. I always take it to a valeting place, they do a good job but perhaps I go too often lol. The bonnet respray has had to put on hold as there was some significant laquer peeling on the rear bumper rear OS wheel edge, so I got that resprayed instead. The chemicals they use in valeting are not good for paintwork. The bonnet laquer peeling is hardly noticeable, except to me so it can wait, for the moment, and I hand touched those spots with a laquer paint. Had the NS wing buffed again at the paintshop too, it had just ever so slightly faded. Both new wings have held up wonderfully (zero rust) since fitting around 4 years ago, but they have had one or two correction repsprays each to get right, cosmetically. The alloys have held up too perfectly to valeting chemicals; cheap refurbs I had in the past soon started to peel; these are quality shotblasted/powdercoated. But all in all valeter's chemicals = not good, so back to hand wash. It's just difficult where I live, not laziness - huge garden and carpark but getting to the water/electricity supply is problematic, because of the way the very old property is laid out -carpark a good 30 metres plus away.


Fingers crossed, Matt; the old Italian tune up to the rescue again lol; these tough old oil burner lumps respect it, once in a while.:racer:

The other thing to consider is valet places jet wash pressure / power...they took a load of lacquer off two of my Passat wheels once, they weren't the best to begin with, but that was it for me. They have since been refurb powder coated really well. I know it was them that did it, but you can't even complain to people who choose not to speak English when it suits them.

Yes, the car seems much more awake, being sensible but hard at the same time - not thrashing, just up and down the VNT movement cycle much more positively than usual, plus heat....heat is my biggest friend when it comes to DP ****** F! Longer and more sustained pulls in 4th gear are good.

I've just connected a Ctek dongle to the battery, had the dongle in stock for several months. I took off the negative terminal for around 10 minutes to give the brains of the car a good reset - I could do with that myself hahahhaah

ESP light now on, but that will clear as soon as I start moving, and will need to reset the time clock - key works fine.

Vacuum done, rubber mats washed - pedals detail next up....I can't have pedals that don't match the mats now can I lol

Mudflaps, I have factory front and rear and wouldn't be without them. The Passat has them too and compared to the Golf which doesn't have them, the Audi and Passat sills and doors stay cleaner for longer - huge difference.
It's not just dirt and grime of course, but also nasty road debris that could easily fly up and ewww road kill yuk!
Certainly worth looking onto Steve as there is all manner of stuff littering our roads these days.

I can't comment on road noise as I've always had them, but I can't say I'm aware of noise from them....I guess there is an element of drag involved, but I'm sure 2 MPG a year is ok hahahah....you can make that up by waxing the car anyway :smile new:
 
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Well it just had to happen didn't it....they were only hanging on by a thread for about a year to be fair. Least it didn't come off and vanish, came off as I was wiping around it.
I'm now officially in the ringless engine cover club....it was always when not if !!


@PDLH :welcoming:
I think you had a good method / idea for fixing this back on securely? Plastic welding perhaps?
It's sheared neatly on all 4 plastic lugs....

Engine cover rings
 
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Mudflaps, I have factory front and rear and wouldn't be without them. The Passat has them too and compared to the Golf which doesn't have them, the Audi and Passat sills and doors stay cleaner for longer - huge difference.
Right you've convinced me Matt. Do Audi still sell them for B7s I wonder, I can only find Chinese new on eBay?
Well it just had to happen didn't it....they were only hanging on by a thread for about a year to be fair. Least it didn't come off and vanish, came off as I was wiping around it.
I'm now officially in the ringless engine cover club....it was always when not if !!
I used to think they got nicked, by latter day Beastie Boy fans lol. But they just simply come off like yours - many have found them in the undertrays. I would expoxy them on carefully with some heat resistant glue - can't remember what I used but they've stayed put. The other thing I did with my cover was sound insulate it with engine bay heat resistant foam - it made an appreciable difference to top end noise to my ears.
 
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Right you've convinced me Matt. Do Audi still sell them for B7s I wonder, I can only find Chinese new on eBay?

I used to think they got nicked, by latter day Beastie Boy fans lol. But they just simply come off like yours - many have found them in the undertrays. I would expoxy them on carefully with some heat resistant glue - can't remember what I used but they've stayed put. The other thing I did with my cover was sound insulate it with engine bay heat resistant foam - it made an appreciable difference to top end noise to my ears.
Audi possibly sell them, but like everything aged VAG, genuine parts are being discontinued left right and centre. Ebay could be good for "old new stock" - old but unused. I scored an original 2002 single CD player for the Golf for £40. In the box brand new and unused, just 23 years old when I got it. Plug, play, works spot on, well chuffed with it. UK seller.

Beware the Lithuanian and Latvian stuff....genuine yes, but they know what they've got and aren't afraid to ask silly money and even sillier shipping costs.

Can you recall the foam you got for the underside of the engine cover?

For my badge I may opt for Tigerseal - very strong, heatproof, black and would tolerate the vibrations....
 
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Can you recall the foam you got for the underside of the engine cover?
It was this product I believe Matt: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264827521839 . Oh I forgot too, coz I'm OCD lol. I used a silver pen to spruce up the 2.0 TDI lettering too - worked really well, I'll try and take a pic later.
Audi possibly sell them, but like everything aged VAG, genuine parts are being discontinued left right and centre. Ebay could be good for "old new stock" - old but unused. I scored an original 2002 single CD player for the Golf for £40. In the box brand new and unused, just 23 years old when I got it. Plug, play, works spot on, well chuffed with it. UK seller.
Can't find genuine anywhere new or otherwise, well I can but only to unknown order for around £106, from Czech OEMvwshop.com - I'm gonna try the Chinese ones for S-line for about £20 (yes I know but they're not an engine part lol). There's a difference bewteen standard SE and S-Line/S4 obviously - OEM parts numbers are 8E0075111A and 8EC0751011, front and rear sets, for reference, for S-Line/S4.
 
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@Matt275 that faultcode of the g28 sensor do yourself a favour and pull the grey connector behind the coolant bottle, clean it off with an electrical cleaner than put it back... I was driving today and about 1/4 mile from my home on the way back, the car cut out but caught itself again... but i got 2 fault codes, engine oil pressure sensor and engine speed sensor... Car refused to start... Now when i replaced the thermostat a few moths ago, i used a transfer pump to suck out the old coolant from the bottle, i wanted it out of the way as i wanted to check the universal coolant pipe i put on ( original pipe is absolete) anyway... when i pulled out the transferpump it sprayed some of the coolant everywhere since i pulled it out way to fast... (was in a hurry to prep as fast as i could)

it hit those connectors and i did whipe them dry, thought nothing of it until today... i had a quick look and yes every single connector there had the white/pink residue of dried up coolant on them... i removed the coolant bottle, released the connectors from their clamp and cleaned them with an electrical contact cleaner... went back to start the car without deleting the fault codes, it start at the first turn. I erased the fault codes. turned the car off, started it again and took it for a spin, checked the ecu again faults gone.... car drove better too.

so i say clean the grey connector first, it's the main part that connects to the cable of the g28 but it's in a stupid spot.. if the coolant tank decides to spit out coolant they can all get wet and cause problems from that point. (FYI inside the connector was dry, no coolant residue but the top where the cables go into the female connector was manky and the reason for the problems. it might be just that instead and a whole lot easier to do than replacing the G28 sensor. (or do as i did and clean the lot that is there it's 5 connectors on my car i'm pretty sure you've got the same amount maybe 4 as yours is a diesel.

i didn't empty the coolant bottle by the way i just got it out of it's securing craddle and relocated it in a spot out of the way so i had easier access to the connectors... ( ps on mine the blue connector is facing inwards... i removed it from the craddle turned it around so i could release the top... but when you go to put it back it needs to be turned back to it's inwards position otherwise it won't seat in the craddle right.

but yeah it can be the source of an intermittent G28 engine speed sensor whilst there is nothing wrong with sensor itself and mainly because of the location it is in... if it was located elsewhere it wouldn't be so open to intermittent faults coming from the connector suffering from coolant ingress.


oww and that badge can be stuck back on with double side automotive tape ( it's black, but the black tiger seal is a good solution also) i think a roll of 3M 1meter double sided tape costs about 3 to 5 pounds, but you can even use those double sided ones they use for the numberplates... just cut them down before sticking them to the logo. you only need 4 to hold it on anyway ;) (i got a big box of those double sided strips i bought for 2 pounds at the Range)
 
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102d9b0ae4c56d9ae9a6fe6c49af0937.jpg

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Added an abt badge to the grille as a subtle hat tip to the wheels ,looks straight from certain angles ,less so from others


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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and it seems like I temped the cars faith by stating it was fine... somehow it's leaking coolant (again) and i'm pretty sure it's not the coolant pipes this time around since i can't see where the leak actually is... i suspect the coolant bottle but I can't find where it's leaking from so i topped it up with water let the car run for 5 minutes so it mixes with the concentrated coolant i dropped in the last time, in the hope i can find the leak today. I did replace most of the coolant pipes with new ones when i had a leak... let's hope i can find today...

no it's not the waterpump i pulled the timing cover off yesterday and it's dry. But i have coolant on the bottom engine cover, and found some on the bottom engine mount... the coolant pipes around that area (radiator to engine all are dry) so maybe suspects are the ones that are located between the intake and the engine.... (worst place to check by the way as the alternator and intake need to come off)
 
have you checked around the thermostat housing seals?
sometimes very small leaks can be tracked back to this area., it drips down onto the undertray and can drip into the engine mount top reccess.
 
Coolant headers can crack or leak at the sensor below over time and it can be hard to see (hard to see level too when they're old). I changed mine recently but in that case it was the radiator bottom hose. Got a new whole radiator fitted courtsey of AA parts and garage. If it was a TDI, which I know it's not, a common leak is the EGR cooler.

How's you're oil and water? Any milkshake? Any white smoke from the exhaust? I know you changed all the coolant pipes but I would check them all again for unions and tightness which may have changed. It's difficult to trace leaks from below since coolant more than any other will travel right back along the car.
 
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have you checked around the thermostat housing seals?
sometimes very small leaks can be tracked back to this area., it drips down onto the undertray and can drip into the engine mount top reccess.
I did and they are bone dry. even the pipes on the black metal coolant pipe aren't leaking ( and one of them is a universal one because VAG decided to make the pipe absolete)
Coolant headers can crack or leak at the sensor below over time and it can be hard to see (hard to see level too when they're old). I changed mine recently but in that case it was the radiator bottom hose. Got a new whole radiator fitted courtsey of AA parts and garage. If it was a TDI, which I know it's not, a common leak is the EGR cooler.

How's you're oil and water? Any milkshake? Any white smoke from the exhaust? I know you changed all the coolant pipes but I would check them all again for unions and tightness which may have changed. It's difficult to trace leaks from below since coolant more than any other will travel right back along the car.
No oil and water mixing, only had problems when the thermostat went regarding the white smoke ( and only at cold start but as soon as the coolant would reach about 50 degrees it stopped smoking) so i replaced the thermostat again ( and yes it was the blue sensor that wasn't working yet again) and i cleaned the one in the radiator and the car was fine for months on end....

so i topped it up last night to see if the bottle would be empty again... no change there, i parked the car in a different spot to check if it would leak ( i washed the bottom engine cover and engine down before i put it there, just to remove any residual coolant puddles) and it doesn't have any leaks right now.... all i can come up with is that it had an air bubble from the last time i worked n the cooling system as i drove around without the heating on as it was nice weather... that might have been the reason for it acting up as i can't find a leak anywhere.

I will make sure that the constant velocity clamps i replaced with normal circlips are tight enough but as i said no leaks as far as i can see at the moment... unless the headgasket is gone which would explain the extra pressure i got that day, at the moment everything is leak free, no mayo on the oilcap or dipstick.... I'm kinda puzzled, i did turn on the heating this morning, but as i said the coolant level hasn't changed and the engine for now shows no leaks.... I'll keep my eyes on it but for now I'll just chuck a bottle of coolant in the car and a bottle of water ( both 5 liter jugs just incase it acts up whilst i'm out and about)
 
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It’s more the o-ring seal on the qr connector to the thermostat housing that fails, hard to see if unless you get a good light etc and check, the hoses can be fine so worth a double check.
 
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checked the lot... can't find a leak ( a shame i don't have the tools to pressurize the coolant system) but having the car running and checking every single coolant pipe and connector the lot came up dry.... can only mean one thing... it was an air bubble... a shame i topped up with water but it was mostly concentrated coolant anyway. So i won't have to drop it all and replace coolant again (it would be the 4th time in 5 months)

i did tripple check the expansion bottle for leaks and it works as it should.... I'll just keep my eye on the coolant level for a while.
 
You can get UV dyes that you pour into the coolant - really small amounts, and then try to trace the source with a UV torch. I got a kit from ebay a few years back for the Subaru...the dye was good, but the torch was pants, worth spending a bit more than the really cheap kits.
 
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well good news whilst I drove the car yesterday, no leaks anywhere and the coolant level stayed the same... so it must have been a stubborn airbubble that finally came out because i closed the interior heating circuit. I openend it up yesterday but will close it today and see if it goes wrong again.
 
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Just bagged some brand new headlights for £127. I've polished and buffed mine countless times and I'm just not satisfied with them, plus the OS lug has broken and is glued on. Headlights make such a difference to the 'new' look of old cars, and with halogens anything less than perfect is a bit dull. I've been looking for a while but they were well over 200 quid or for LHD. These were correct RHD with levelling motors, reduced from £215 to £150 and with a further eBay 15% saver code. I've got some ppf film to protect them before they go on, this time too.

The numpty who first did my cambelt/water pump change, right after I first got the car 8 years ago, broke the grill centre piece top bracket that screws on, plus one of the bumpers top screw points by the grill's OS side. I'd been debating for a long time getting a good secondhand whole S-Line bumper, but the bumper is otherwise in very good condition, with no defects from the outside. So I'm thinking of plastic welding those two small areas - anyone experience with this? - the bumper hole is only partially broken and still holds fine. I have got a brand new SE grill, bought in error, that I will ebay hopefully to offset this cost - pennies are tight these days, lol.

S l1600
 
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Just bagged some brand new headlights for £127. I've polished and buffed mine countless times and I'm just not satisfied with them, plus the OS lug has broken and is glued on. Headlights make such a difference to the 'new' look of old cars, and with halogens anything less than perfect is a bit dull. I've been looking for a while but they were well over 200 quid or for LHD. These were correct RHD with levelling motors, reduced from £215 to £150 and with a further eBay 15% saver code. I've got some ppf film to protect them before they go on, this time too.

The numpty who first did my cambelt/water pump change, right after I first got the car 8 years ago, broke the grill centre piece top bracket that screws on, plus one of the bumpers top screw points by the grill's OS side. I'd been debating for a long time getting a good secondhand whole S-Line bumper, but the bumper is otherwise in very good condition, with no defects from the outside. So I'm thinking of plastic welding those two small areas - anyone experience with this? - the bumper hole is only partially broken and still holds fine. I have got a brand new SE grill, bought in error, that I will ebay hopefully to offset this cost - pennies are tight these days, lol.

View attachment 283598
You could've just bought new lenses and replaced those... but i get it. You had a broken tab.
 
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You could've just bought new lenses and replaced those... but i get it. You had a broken tab.
Yes but that's a faff, and it means the car's off the road even longer while I d*ck about with blow dryers or heat guns and silicone; I'm not sure the cheap lenses that abound on eBay are much good, nor E marked properly either, and as you say the broken tab made it for me. This price is very low for headlights of any kind really, simple old bulb halogen - hell, a set of bulbs can cost more than this, lol - and new cars sealed led lights are in the thousands, sadly for them.
 
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Afaik they have all the markings on them, at least the last time checked, they looked exactly like the oem lenses apart from the part number.

I'll go down that route sooner or later.
 
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Afaik they have all the markings on them, at least the last time checked, they looked exactly like the oem lenses apart from the part number.
These are the cheap Chinese covers - no E markings as far as I can see: https://tinyurl.com/be3bee2y

The others with proper markings are currently around 40-50 quid, not much of a huge saving, especially for the effort and time, as far as I can see. It would be different if I'd intended to mod the headlights, such as clear corner, black them out etc. but I'm a strictly OEM type of guy and I'm alone perhaps in preferring the tango corners, lol.
 
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I've never de-tango'd anything over the years, I can't see why a lot of people dislike being an OEM tango!

Forgot to say, it seems like the LED Perf ballast pack was indeed the answer to my flickering NS headlight that started playing up last year.
I've done a fair few night drives now and zero flickering to report. I'm not going to replace the other pack yet, for the sake of if it aint broke don't fix it. I'll just keep the spare pack in stock.

Both headlight bulbs are as bright as each other, so it's not like they are unequal or anything. The bulbs are proving great at night, so thank you very much again Rob :icon thumright:

My Tigerseal has arrived from ebay, so I'll be re-patriating the badge to the engine cover over the weekend.
 
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The clear corner headlamps, which ,were fitted as an update on the B7 from a specific point, do freshen up the look of the front end.
I think audi decided the front end would benefit from a change of lens colour, hence why it happened, my B7 had it as do a lot of B7's, but a lot still have the orange lens setup.
 
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Mine are done like that, will get the 50 pound ones, as those are the ones I was on about still made in China/Korea/Taiwan some Asian country lol

That all said the car showed me the leak source today... the coolant pipe with the clip on the thermostat, came off. Somehow I probably didn't push the clip down to secure the pipe. Thus, it worked its way off.

I pushed it all the way on, made sure I pressed it down, made sure it wouldn't come off and build the car back up. Fresh coolant put in and went to start it...

Car didn't want to start at first, then started took it for a spin, and it died and started again... read the ecu the 16706 engine speed sensor (crankshaft sensor fault message)

Cleaned the cable again, but fault is persistent.. so I ordered a new one. Will get it tomorrow as it's in stock but 5 towns further away... so I ordered it in for the next morning pickup in the shop in my town.

Good thing the weather is nice...
 
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I did say it might be that connection, I had the very same issue as it's really awkward to get inserted fully and secured, you should really change that o-ring now, as it will just start leaking over a short time frame.
Having been on for so long it will flat be flattened enough to leak once disturbed.
Use some o-ring lube on it when refitting to aid easy connection.
 
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I've been wanting silicone grease for ages so I got a Liqui Moly tube of it for a tenner. It's quite thick but smears well / great for something like O rings.
Just such a handy thing to have and keep in the tool stash.
 
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yes i used some good old vaseline to slip it back in place, It didn't want to move all the way up this time around... i did check the o-ring once i noticed the pipe was off but it's in very good condition. The pipe connector was bone dry and refused to slip further over the male part of the thermostat.... well I just used vaseline as that is what i had at hand (and it doesn't cause problems with the compound of the o-ring) once it was lubed up the pipe managed to go all the way up, i had to apply constant pressure with a jack handle. Once i pushed the securing clip down i tried to push the pipe off using constant pressure but it didn't move.

A shame i had already put the car back on it's wheels to fill up with coolant otherwise i would have removed the malfunctioning crankshaft sensor already. No problem other than me having to take the bottom engine cover off again today when i get to replace the sensor.

PS to everyone that has a car that is hitting 20 to 21 years: start buying the engine management sensors if they are the OEM ones that clearly have never been replaced.
 
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The clear corner headlamps, which ,were fitted as an update on the B7 from a specific point, do freshen up the look of the front end.
I think audi decided the front end would benefit from a change of lens colour, hence why it happened, my B7 had it as do a lot of B7's, but a lot still have the orange lens setup.
MY 2007 - the other change for that year was from ISO to Quadlock and Concert and Symphony II+ (no cassette at last, lol) both double din now. Since they acted as sidelights on all the time in the US I think this was part of the reason. I like either OEM really but those that de-tangoed mostly did by removing the inner lens on the indicator light, which I'm not keen on. I think the B7s look slightly wider from front profile with the tango and a little less plain but the clear ones look a little more modern on the other hand too.

I wish I had the Xenons like Matt, but could never justify the retrofit and hey because everyone has ridiculous leds now, maybe I don't need to bother with those stick ons for driving in Europe (the Xenons you can switch over), they surely can't flash you these days with halogens, lol. I've bought extra longlife Osrams all round - never had a front indicator go out in 8 years but they require wing liners off to change. PPF going on today, for fitting this week.

Mine are done like that, will get the 50 pound ones, as those are the ones I was on about still made in China/Korea/Taiwan some Asian country lol
Yes they all are lol. These are Depo made in Taiwan but the OEMs, even the Halogens are several hundred pounds, seem as good quality though and the plastic is less brittle for the lugs too. The E markings are on the case not the lens, I was wrong there, so whichever lens works should be fine.

Glad you sourced the coolant leak but there's always something isn't there?
 
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PS to everyone that has a car that is hitting 20 to 21 years: start buying the engine management sensors if they are the OEM ones that clearly have never been replaced.
Yes as I found the other day, OEM parts are getting fast unobtanium now - I had an order cancelled/refunded because of it - a rubber engine seal, fortunately I don't really need it but I bought on a whim to experiment with something.
 
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Yes as I found the other day, OEM parts are getting fast unobtanium now - I had an order cancelled/refunded because of it - a rubber engine seal, fortunately I don't really need it but I bought on a whim to experiment with something.
:tearsofjoy: unobtanium... that' should be listed on the periodic table!
Glad you sourced the coolant leak but there's always something isn't there?
Partly because i must have been a muppet and didn't push the clip down to secure the pipe.. no ones fault there but mine. But that sensor put up a fight now that i think about it i did see the error a few times and cleaning the connector behind the coolant bottle always sorted it out... not anymore and as we all know coolant travels and eats copper so the placement of those connectors behind the coolant bottle is questionable to say the least.

I got some ideas to address it but first i need to replace the sensor.
 
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