What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

[northpole]

I stopped buying cv joints and boots when i noticed that complete assembled driveshafts are cheaper, it just means a clean and fit... or if you are lazy... whipe most of the leaked cv grease away and fit .. i've done that before when the weather was pants... took it down to a jetwashing place that has the underbody washplate too and used that to get rid of the grease i missed( i didn't put the bottom covers back on when i did that)... always worked just fine... but you need to use the jetwasher also to get to parts that are higher up and between the suspension arms... whatever is left is for the MOT tester to whipe off when he does his checks... at least i tried.

PS i read your post wrong, when i re-read it i saw my mistake but coudn't change my reply as the edit time had past already

 

[northpole]

Oww and i just washed the roadgrime off the car... since it's still raining i didn't even bother to do a proper job so no rinse the rain can do that... at least i can see through the rear window again.

 

[B7Tourer]

So that’s another Saturday or Sunday taken up at the busiest dampest time of year

I feel for both you and Northpole with recent troubles, since mine's been a catalogue of the same. Now the cheap EGR valve has finally gone south as well, and so that means fitting the OEM Pierburg yet again. I'm always telling people and thinking, going on 280,000 miles and no trouble... which is really not true, lol. Nothing major but sometimes these minor things get you down, though the cheap part was entirely my fault. I suppose it's to be expected on 20 year old cars, but it's times like these I really think of cutting my losses and getting something newer. Every time I think I've done so much now, it's almost there, better the Devil you know, and all that... but right now I wish I'd spent around six grand at the beginning of the year on something better...

 

[northpole]

Every time I think I've done so much now, it's almost there, better the Devil you know, and all that... but right now I wish I'd spent around six grand at the beginning of the year on something better...

We all think the same everytime something acts up, which means hours of work... but once it's sorted, all that is forgiven in a matter of seconds. And to be fair, the only one that actually tickles my fancy is the mk2 q7 3.0 tdi because it still has the same engines as the mk1 but just a bit more reliable and looks slightly better bodywise. Another brand is also tempting the f12 bmw 530d/535d X-drive estate... but i hate how much noise those engines make.

 

[B7Tourer]

We all think the same everytime something acts up, which means hours of work... but once it's sorted, all that is forgiven in a matter of seconds.

Ha ha, that's true... but it sure does irk me when it's not super smooth as normal... what with the bearing noise and the squeak from brand new pads, right now it's not a pleasure. At least the trick with disconnecting the ASV restores performance, without a noticeable impact on shutdown, until I fit the new EGR, but the EML light bugs me too. 6 years ago when it wasn't any where near as good as now, I thought nothing of setting off for Southern Spain... I'd be a bit more wary now. I'm sure it's good for that easy once sorted but, you know...

I'm not a fan of plastic guides and chain drives at all and V6s with their 4 main bearing crank shafts much neither. The 5 bearings are stronger on 4 pots and timing belts recognised as service items at least, therefore much more cost effective/accesible to sort and quieter... and these days last almost as long anyway.

But I do like straight sixes... the smoothest and best of all configs. I've had my eye on, sorry guys, a 5 series 530D touring for a while now. I'm surprised though you say they are noisy... is that just the X-drives or are the RWDs the same too? Or you just don't like the noise that oil burners make? which I can understand.

I've got a hankering for a bit more refinement and luxury; but I need a long lasting 700+ mile cruiser too. I got quite into the propect of the Jag XF sporting brakes; but I just don't like that rear end and the single ugly pipe on the 2 litres nor do I trust JLR cranks on the 3 litres, and again V6s, from that era. Whilst I quite like A6s they just don't do as much for me as the prospect of a nice well appointed Beamer right now, sadly. I guess it's something about getting stuff out your sytem before you hang up your spurs, lol.

 

[northpole]

it's the diesel noise i dislike from the beamers... my neighbour bought a 320D x-drive m sport ( sedan) it's quite nice but it's so noisy, compared to any of the audi diesel engines... than another one bought one this year a 520D x-drive m sport touring for pocket change, in such a good state I wondered why i ruled them out because once you are driving it, it's such fun.. but the person selling it had replaced it already with a 530D x-drive m-sport touring and he did it because the 520d is to heavy a car for the engine, plenty of power for the 3 series not for the 5 series and since he uses the car to travel around Europe for work, he opted for the 530d just for that extra torque and power ( both the cars are remapped and i drove them both, the 530d deffo felt way more nimble and sure footed for those 10 miles i drove it) but yeah start it up and it's that diesel noise that puts me off....

I did go and look at 2 q7's with the 3.0 tdi engine and they are quiter when running at idle and whilst you drive off, still sound like a diesel but a lot less than those chatty beamer engines.... I do know they need the guides and chains checked and replaced every so often but i think it's a small trade off for a quieter ride... but driving wise the bmw's are better from that same era. The entertainment setups are better also and unlike audi will pair up to andriod phones without a hickup streaming your music, or run andriod auto (after an update for the system) the rest of the creature comforts are compareable though, but i prefer the bmw seats over the audi s-line seats... they are sportier, and hugh you better especially in the 530D/535D m-sport models but because of that they are less comfy ( and that puts me back to the q7 as those seats are both comfy and hugh you right just less communicative of what is happening on the road but part of that is because of the air suspension and the high suv ride)

The q7 mk2's only win it because they can be found at just above scrap value, and once sorted out properly (including getting andriod auto to work) will still be cheaper than getting a bmw 530D x-drive touring. the loading area is smaller because of the 3rd row of seats but they can be folded flat ( and that's exactly what i was planing to do anyway) at the moment i'm not jumping to another car yet, I'll be waiting for prices to come down a bit more... even if it means my first port of call will be to replace the chains and guides, just waiting for one that doesn't have airsuspension problems as most of them do or even worse have been replaced with static shocks and springs... ( both i went to view where fixed like that) fine if you don't mind but for me it takes away the option to dial that suspension in on the fly.... and this is where the a6 c6 allroad all of a sudden made sense to get but all i seem to find are proper bangers or too expensive because they are in A+ condition. So q7 it is... i also don't mind the higher up driving position and better view on the road traffic the q7 has just because it's an SUV.

But all can change if i run into the right car at the right price...

 

[Matt275]

I feel for both you and Northpole with recent troubles, since mine's been a catalogue of the same. Now the cheap EGR valve has finally gone south as well, and so that means fitting the OEM Pierburg yet again. I'm always telling people and thinking, going on 280,000 miles and no trouble... which is really not true, lol. Nothing major but sometimes these minor things get you down, though the cheap part was entirely my fault. I suppose it's to be expected on 20 year old cars, but it's times like these I really think of cutting my losses and getting something newer. Every time I think I've done so much now, it's almost there, better the Devil you know, and all that... but right now I wish I'd spent around six grand at the beginning of the year on something better...

Blimey, that EGR valve literally only lasted around 6 months?

 

[northpole]

Honestly if i had a diesel the first thing i would do is disable the egr and map it out. followed by a carbon clean service. Not only will the engine stay clean after that (and stops the need for having a working egr system), it also frees up a few extra mpg... especially if you are wanting to run the car for 700+k miles... but that is just me. Reason why i would do it is because I don't really do enough miles a year to own a diesel so the EGR system will just soil the engine, robbing it from economy, bhp and eventually mess with the egr valve to the point where you have to replace it. Plus no need to replace the part anymore since it's disabled and not operating ( a cost saving right there). And to be honest, I have seen Euro IV diesels pass the emissions test with the egr system completely disabled, whilst running straight pipes cat back, and still be way under the set limits.

 

[B7Tourer]

Blimey, that EGR valve literally only lasted around 6 months?

Less than that Matt - 2 of em! But they were Chinesium, so entirely my own fault. The OEM one is made by Pieburg, as I have learnt you must replace with this or equivalent. Lucas make a good one too. It's the lesson of every part really. Even so I've been unlucky. I really hope there is not something more fundamental in the electrics causing these failures. Time will tell with the OEM one that I should have fitted in the first place

Honestly if i had a diesel the first thing i would do is disable the egr and map it out. followed by a carbon clean service. Not only will the engine stay clean after that (and stops the need for having a working egr system), it also frees up a few extra mpg... especially if you are wanting to run the car for 700+k miles... but that is just me. Reason why i would do it is because I don't really do enough miles a year to own a diesel so the EGR system will just soil the engine, robbing it from economy, bhp and eventually mess with the egr valve to the point where you have to replace it. Plus no need to replace the part anymore since it's disabled and not operating ( a cost saving right there). And to be honest, I have seen Euro IV diesels pass the emissions test with the egr system completely disabled, whilst running straight pipes cat back, and still be way under the set limits.

I don't want to open another debate with you, but most of this is not entirely the case. Firstly I'll give you one unintended benefit of an EGR - it warms up a diesel engine considerably quicker than without, principally because of the coolant running through the EGR cooler, and partly through the initial hot inert exhaust gases entering the cylinder. The abscence of an EGR and EGR cooler may add to engine wear too because of this longer to heat startup. Many people deleting are totally unaware of this.

Yes the EGR valve is all about reducing emissions - Nox emissions only and was an industry codge to do that. But it's not entirely true you will reduce carbon fully by deleting it either. Every direct injection engine, of which a diesel obviously is, suffers from carbon build up. The carbon itself isn't the problem so much as mixing with oil to make the thick sludge is. Oil still enters the intake from the closed ventilation system and back from the turbo. It's not necessarily true either you gain power without one - mostly there is too much oxygen at any point in a diesel; more than can ever be burnt; hence black smoke. A properly functioning EGR only really replaces unburnt oxygen with inert gas through the cycle and with a warmed up engine reduces overall temperatures; hence the theory and practice of reducing NOx.

On this engine it really is a simple service matter to take off the EGR valve and even intake and clean them out periodically; and on balance I much prefer that than losing the engine warm up. The EGR valve is really not a big deal. A DPF on the other hand is a killer for me for any diesel...

This fella in the States is one of the very few people I've ever found to talk proper science about the EGR delete kaboodle - he's very entertaining too, I really like his stuff on YT:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EibM3PAc8as&t=3s

 

[northpole]

I know that is true, with a delete, not with a disabled and mapped out egr( it's still there but it just doesn't get to put the exhaust smoke into the intake) but overall remove it and see your average mileage go up it doesn't make that much of a difference before the engine is hot... sure it will be about 4 minutes longer (at least that is what i found in my mk4 VW golf GT TDI) but the amount of fuel used when cold is only marginal compared to when the engine is hot especially if you do loads of miles. The rest of the plusses is it does help with how the emission test is done but once the engine is carbon buildup free it will pass them.. my mk4 golf did it with a bad cat at 50% of the allowed emissions, once i replaced it with a new aftermarket pattern part it hit 33,3% of the allowed emissions ( plus it was a whole lot better to drive after that overall)

but that is what happened to my car and that fgolf went to the scrappy at 470K miles ( i bought that car with 70K miles)... and only because it needed a full respray, new timing belt, tensioner, aux belt & tensioner and yet another clutch... the car had 3 clutches and belts in my ownership, just couldn't be bothered with pulling the gearbox off again and needing a full respray. so i drove it to the scrappy.

@Matt275 i just did the reverse led lights swap: no faultcodes
here is what it looks like

led output

halogen bulb

It's save to say they are bright as can be and fit perfectly and no errors on the dash.... Go grab 'em, very clean light, as you can see on the pictures, makes a big difference. I could clearly see the light shine out of it during the day, unlike the halogen bulb. the camera doesn't do it any justice. But i took the pictures with the rear in full daylight.

 

[northpole]

@B7Tourer forgot to mention if you've got a VE or PD engine not a CR than you can delete it... with non of the above draw backs other than it'll take longer to warmup when leaving the car at idle... but if you do as i did a disable only, all egr system parts stay put including the exhaust pipe return but it is blocked off on both sides, the difference will be max 4 minutes at idle about 2 minutes whilst driving, seriously you won't notice it whilst driving.... but remove the lot and do a proper delete and it all changes and than the above video is correct.

I would disable the lot and reap the benefits ( your PD has an electronically controlled EGR valve right so it'll need to be turned off in the ECU) i wouldn't do that to a CR engine as you correctly stated it'll still need carbon cleaning as the fuel is directly delivered into the cylinders vs the older VE and PD engines where the injectors deliver the fuel into the intake ports. So if yours isn't a CR you only have benefits of having a cleaner engine even if you decide not to run a carbon clean right after the delete the fuel will wash most off it away but not the thick layers that have buildup already those need to be cleaned off, my prefered method is to disassemble the head, intake-and exhaust manifold and scrape the big buildups out than use chemicals and really hot soapy water to clean it all up. once that is done. Either steam dry it or use an aircompressor to dry the parts, reassemble and enjoy a clean running diesel engine for years on end.

And than i haven't even talked about cleaning the VNT mechanism on the turbo's because that will get sticky eventually if you don't do big miles, simply because it only stays clean if the turbo gets hot enough to burn the carbon build ups off ( this goes for all diesel engines, and this right here is the reason why i went back to petrol after 15 years of diesel driving and doing enough miles a year to keep the engine clean)

 

[Jamsmoo]

Can anyone provide definitive torque settings for m14 17mm hex hub bolt and the 6 m10 cv to gearbox
Seeing conflicting info
Tia


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[Charlie Farley]

My Trip to Bingham near Nottingham on Tuesday was very successful.
Around-trip of 350 miles to pick up another nice sub-compact tractor.

A fair bit of weight all in, but the allroad handled it with ease, and the adaptive self-leveling suspension was so good, spot on.
Had a brief moment on the way back with an EML flash on the dash, but it went within a few seconds, ran VCDS at home and it was a stuck or sticking turbo actuator, cleared the log but will need to investigate that, probably gunked up with carbon, other than that all good with the old barge and so comfy on a long drive, the A6 just eats the miles.
Traffic was a nightmare on the return trip, but to be expected to be honest.
So a nice winter project for me whilst i still search for that elusive B7.

 

[B7Tourer]

I would disable the lot and reap the benefits ( your PD has an electronically controlled EGR valve right so it'll need to be turned off in the ECU) i wouldn't do that to a CR engine as you correctly stated it'll still need carbon cleaning as the fuel is directly delivered into the cylinders vs the older VE and PD engines where the injectors deliver the fuel into the intake ports.

The PD engine is definitely a direct injection engine driven from lobes on the cam. There are no injectors in the intake - I don't know of any modern diesel engine anywhere that has indirect injection. Only a petrol engine really benefits from indirect injection, in terms of cleanliness too (not performance) because of the detergent nature of petrol. There is little to no significant difference in MPG or performance with an EGR delete; at least any mild remap would be a much a better solution for that (most remaps after EGR delete merely remove the EML warning, very few actually account for better performane). There is some reduction in carbon/oil build up but there may be increased smoke at the tailpipe, because of more unburnt diesel, especially without a DPF as in my case and with a DPF there is an increased need for regen. And a greater length of time to full engine warm up.

As I said the EGR valved is an industry bodge for NOx emissions not engine benefit but these engines were designed around it but there a little real world practical benefits to deleting them, notwithstanding it being illegal too. A DPF on the other hand is a massive handicap to the daily running of a diesel, although it produces a much less smoke at the exhaust. It's a very bad thing on the PD engines, which weren't designed around it and for various technical reasons to do with the PD's inability to control injection cycles like CR (pre and post injection aid both reducing the 'knock' sound of diesel and extending the life of the DPF, although the PD has some of this it is limited by mechanically cam driven injectors). It's much less of an issue on CR engines coming later because of this.

 

[northpole]

Yeah you are right about the ps being direct injection, my bad.. but i had one and i disabled it and at first didn't remap it. No extra smoke, a clean intake and engine for longer. I did have to clean the valve stems come to think about it including the top part that isn't in the cylinder when closed...

I did pull the injectors and cleaned them ultrasonicly and the solution i used was liquimoly's diesel purge... left them in for way longer than was needed since I had the complete engine apart.. but after that clean the engine never got that dirty as it was before me doing all of that. Granted I needed to replace the headgasket and wanted new crankshaft oil seals so I bought an engine gasket kit and replaced the lot whilst I was cleaning. It was expensive but worth every penny. Car responded really well to it.
But at that time I blocked off the egr exhaust pipe on both sides... and as I stated before no extra smoke and my emissions never failed the mot. Nor dod I have any extra smoke whilst driving it, hard or normal. And that was before the remap.

Anyway I had no problems whatsoever and the thing that made me give the engine all new seals was an oil leak at the gearbox side... so I did the lot. Engine would be apart anyway so the lot got replaced and cleaned.

But I did loads of miles in that car in my 8 year ownership I did 400 k that's around 50k a year (car had more miles on it when I drove it to the scrappy)

But that is the reason why I would do it again. IRL experience not because someone states the reasons why it should be left inplace.

My petrol however still got it's egr intact. It doesn’t make a blind difference if i would disable it, other than the ecu moaning about it not having enough flow.

 

[Jamsmoo]

New drive shaft fitted
Also swapped out the hel lines I was sent to

some custom ones I made up
Wasn’t happy with the routing of hose ,far to tight on full lock ,was kinking one end
They will be going back
Custom hoses Dawlish highly recommended

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[Jamsmoo]

New drive shaft fitted
Also swapped out the hel lines I was sent to

some custom ones I made up
Wasn’t happy with the routing of hose ,far to tight on full lock ,was kinking one end
They will be going back
Custom hoses Dawlish highly recommended

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[B7Tourer]

Genuine OEM EGR valve to fit and snubnose mount, this weekend. The snubnose, I'll explain: never buy Pirelli P Zero tyres! I believe they are just not fit for purpose on these cars at least. A couple of times recently I've been getting prounoced drivetrain judder in low gear engaging, when turning sharp left or right. Clutch/flywheel is pretty new; engine mounts good; snubnose has seen better days. But's its definitely down to the Pirelli's, and extreme crabbing. It's a well documented phenomenon with them. Mostly it's like you've run over some stones, but more rarely - this judder. So hence I thought it might be the snubnose, since everything else was A OK. It needs changing anyway.

The wheel bearing turned out to be passenger front; which is good since I'd only just had the driver's side done. A joy to drive again in a straightish line, lol

 

[Matt275]

My snubnose looks like an old past it cake! Must do mine at some point.
Did your EGR come with a gasket kit? Mine did, but the gasket for between the EGR and the ASV was wrong, the kit had a flat type - bit like a rubber band if you like, but the car needed the O ring type which I ended up getting separate from TPS...

 

[B7Tourer]

Did your EGR come with a gasket kit? Mine did, but the gasket for between the EGR and the ASV was wrong, the kit had a flat type - bit like a rubber band if you like, but the car needed the O ring type which I ended up getting separate from TPS...

Yes it did Matt. Ideally I should get a new gasket for the ASV valve too, but that's virtually brand new.

 

[Matt275]

I guess it was the correct one in the kit then? The guy at TPS said "ooh not sure we've got the right one" he was looking at what I took in....which was actually to show him the wrong type.
Don't forget your bolt with the dodgy torx head...I think you put yours at the top of the 3 like I did

 

[B7Tourer]

I guess it was the correct one in the kit then? The guy at TPS said "ooh not sure we've got the right one" he was looking at what I took in....which was actually to show him the wrong type.
Don't forget your bolt with the dodgy torx head...I think you put yours at the top of the 3 like I did

It's the correct one, I could change these in my sleep now! I didn't have a dodgy torx head, it was just overtightened by the mechanic, first time, which could have and almost stripped it. I'm sure the bolts are and were in the same place they came from lol.

 

[B7Tourer]

Well further with the terrible Pirelli's - they are worn out at less than 10K! So Pilot Sport 5s on the front Monday - I just don't feel safe with them now. The rears are OK, so I'd prefer not to have to change them just yet. I can't blame the car for this, even though it's cost me quite a bit recently; but they shouldn't have been this bad, since tracking was bang on; which will have to be done again!

 

[norad97]

Well further with the terrible Pirelli's - they are worn out at less than 10K! So Pilot Sport 5s on the front Monday - I just don't feel safe with them now. The rears are OK, so I'd prefer not to have to change them just yet. I can't blame the car for this, even though it's cost me quite a bit recently; but they shouldn't have been this bad, since tracking was bang on; which will have to be done again!

 

[norad97]

Pirelli's wear out to quick, will never fit them on my car, I have found Goodyear the best so far or michelin tyres.

 

[B7Tourer]

Pirelli's wear out to quick, will never fit them on my car, I have found Goodyear the best so far or michelin tyres.

Worse than that, I think there is something very wrong with the compound they use. The crabbing and judder on sharp turns is alarming - at slow speeds it's like you've gone over some rocks, at faster speeds, like a quick getaway out a junction, the whole drivetrain can tramp, if you give it too much revs. I've read of many similar now. They didn't do this brand new; only as they've worn; and they wear very quickly. The Michelin PS4s I had before lasted a long time with no issues; these PS 5s are said to be even longer lasting, hence why I've moved to them. No experience with Goodyear, but good to know. I'm OCD with tyres, and really like quiet ones too, how are the Goodyears for this?

 

[norad97]

I'm running Goodyear Asymmetric 6, before I had Goodyear tyres and all performed great on my A4 Quattro.
235/40/18.
As for quite, I don't really hear anything, but being older I might not notice. If you look at tyre ratings they do have a noise rating.
As I don't do a lot of miles a year, I can't say how long they last.

 

[Jamsmoo]

Some quite tidy b6 avant recaro’s on eBay if anyone’s on the look out


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[B7Tourer]

Some quite tidy b6 avant recaro’s on eBay if anyone’s on the look out

I saw recently a really lovely red leather Recaro, fully electric, heated, Avant interior, from an S4, for reasonable money fitted. I seriously considered it, but in the end I really like my drab cloth interior in both winter and summer; and it's in good condition. And in the end I've only got a 2.0 TDI S-Line that hopefully no one would bother stealing. That might just be different with a lovely red Recaro interior; for that alone. But I sure did think seriously about it.

 

[B7Tourer]

Pierburg OEM EGR valve now fitted and adapted. Nice and smooth again with no faults recurring. And smooth shutdown, with the reconnected ASV. Michelin PS 5s at the front fitted today. So with the new wheel bearing, let's hope for now, trouble only comes in three.

There's a bit of snagging I've got to do now; such as the new switch surround and speaker grill on the drivers's door and the new chrome handbrake switch; and I really must get around to fitting the replacement rear camera/parking sensors number plate holder. If I'm really fussy I'll buy alternative Canbus wiring for the headset, so I can have a return of the steeringwheel voice button functionality, for Siri; although the button on the headset works just fine as it stands. I just like the fact that when you press the steeringwheel button the heater fan drops, for better audibility.

 

[northpole]

Some quite tidy b6 avant recaro’s on eBay if anyone’s on the look out

Just for people that are interested you'll need to swap over the occupancy sensor from the b7 seats... the b6 did not have them and swapping them in without it gives a dtc. I tried a set in my car but had to deal with that and i didn't want to do the work so i put the original cloth seats back ( it's only the 2 front seats by the way that have the occupancy sensor in the seats bottom base)

 

[Jamsmoo]

Just for people that are interested you'll need to swap over the occupancy sensor from the b7 seats... the b6 did not have them and swapping them in without it gives a dtc. I tried a set in my car but had to deal with that and i didn't want to do the work so i put the original cloth seats back ( it's only the 2 front seats by the way that have the occupancy sensor in the seats bottom base)

Did all b7 have occupancy sensor
I stripped my old heated seat to retro fit heat into b6 recaros
Didn’t find a sensor


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[Jamsmoo]

Did all b7 have occupancy sensor
I stripped my old heated seat to retro fit heat into b6 recaros
Didn’t find a sensor


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Never had an issue with fault codes airbag or otherwise


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[northpole]

Mine is from 2005. Yes, one of the first B7's it has them. B6 seats trigger an seat occupancy error fault as they do not have them.

And most s-line models have them.

 

[Charlie Farley]

B6 Recaro's do not have the SRS side airbags found on the later B7 Recaros
B6 Recaro doesn't have the seat occupancy module as found in the B7recaro's
It's the passenger seat that is covered by the occupancy function due to the front passenger air bag, also relates to the seatbelt clasp.

If doing the swap its preferable to get B7 recaro's to start with , but B6 will work with a few mods.

 

[B7Tourer]

I should add the Recaro red leather, electric/heated Avant set I was referring to, was from a B7 S4.

The new Michelin PS 5s are stellar. Very quiet and very sure and no I feel completely safe in the wet again. The report from the old Pirelli P Zeros shows I have been partly to blame for running the tyres slightly over at 36 psi, since wear was more pronounced in the centres, so I'm going with a max of 34 psi from now on. Nonetheless the rapid wear on Pirellis, and their alarming worn characteristics, has put me off them for good.

 

[Jamsmoo]

The recaros I sold that stripped the seat down to the metal frame had srs and no occupancy sensor
There must have been a cross over possibly

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[northpole]

that is entirly possible that there was a cross over period, where they didn't add the occupancy sensors. But most b7 s-line models all have the seat occupancy sensor in both the drivers and passenger seat... dead giveaway for that is the moment i start the car, sitting in the drivers seat, the seatbelt light comes on... it doesn't do it when i start the car whilst i'm not siting in the seat. It also has the extra cable for it in the wiring loom for the seats... I checked it, when i started looking for heated leather seats.

But anything other than black heated leather seats isn't for me.

 

[B7Tourer]

But anything other than black heated leather seats isn't for me.

These cars, infact many German cars can get very oppresive inside with all black; especially the S-Line SEs with black headling too, to my English eyes, it's a reason the black/grey leather has never been worth the retrofit for me, though time over I would have probably looked for one with leather first. The jags I had were dark blue and cream with red piping respectivly. I liked the latter but it has be kept on top of or it looks grubby. Red leather has a classic sports car feel and looks quite nice inside a black Avant, but the shade of these were too bright really, they would have been irresistable to me if they had been a more toned down maroon red.

I don't like fully electric seats neither - like electric tailgates - have we become that weak lol; other things to go wrong; and so slow to move compared to manual. Electric lumbar having lived with it now is a must though; as I don't see a manual way to implement it. I suppose too heated seats are very worthwhile with leather (though I think cooled for winter would be wanted ideally too) but like heated steeringwheels, they too seem somehow less manly and a bit pointless to me.

More and more I appreciate the rationale of the stripped back driver's experience S-Line, without even cruise or a trip computer to nag you (I've cruised thousands of miles through Europe's long roads, with just my right foot, even though I've now got the retrofit kit); and the sports seats are to me more important than the material covering them, and I've come to really appreciate cloth in winter and hot Andalucia's sun too; especially when I return to the car after leaving it parked for a while lol. So all in all, this is why I decided against that Recaro set and the fact they would stand out like a sore thumb easy to nick too.

 

[Charlie Farley]

that is entirly possible that there was a cross over period, where they didn't add the occupancy sensors. But most b7 s-line models all have the seat occupancy sensor in both the drivers and passenger seat... dead giveaway for that is the moment i start the car, sitting in the drivers seat, the seatbelt light comes on... it doesn't do it when i start the car whilst i'm not siting in the seat. It also has the extra cable for it in the wiring loom for the seats... I checked it, when i started looking for heated leather seats.

But anything other than black heated leather seats isn't for me.

There is no seat occupancy in the driver seat , it’s the seat belt clasp that will activate the seat belt alerts . They can be deactivated in vcds.
The seat occupancy for the front in b7 seats was for the passenger airbag and seat belt alerts.
The driver’s side is live as soon as the ignition is switched on .