What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
Just found out that OE audi centre caps will fit perfectly, now that's a nice touch . 
Going to take a look at this one next week, with a view to a sensible offer.
I know them so well so know what to look for and ask....
I know them so well so know what to look for and ask....
Nice choice ,very oem looking too, similar to the 20s option on the q3 and tt mark 3 18s
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Look to have plenty of caliper clearance too
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Off the car they look massive...lol, will be fitting tommorow but may need some 5mm spacers just to get the offset i prefer.
Room for some 18z's...
The q3 20s I mentioned came in an 8j
A mate got hold of a set for his edition 35 looked great but he soon got rid ,scared of breaking them running low profile tyres
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A mate got hold of a set for his edition 35 looked great but he soon got rid ,scared of breaking them running low profile tyres
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20" 8.5j ET38 , that offset is also the factory offset .
245/35 tyres, so the final specs are pretty well identical to the factory , but just want a bit more poke so 5mm will do nicely.
3.2 v6 B7 , never really considered this spec before, maybe worth a look with a view to becoming a nice project, would sound awesome with the right system etc.
Engine could be a money pit though...
Engine could be a money pit though...
would need a fair bit of retrofit work from my personal choices , but its a possible at the right price.
245/35 are ok on 20's , not as low as one would expect.
have 245/35 19's on at the moment and its great so not expecting any less in ride quality etc.
I use 3 of 5 the adaptive air suspension settings a lot, dynamic, auto and comfort so a nice variety of ride and handling options.
The current 245/35 19 are actually smaller diameter than the original 245/45 18 rims, they should have been 245/40 19 , so going to 245/35 20 it is a perfect match to the factory running setup , 245/35 have the same sidewall height in either 19'' or 20'' format as the width is the same.
245/35 has noticible taller sidewall than a 235/35 in 19'' or 20''
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I’ve always had a lingering tinge of regret I didn’t buy the one I viewed before plumping for what I have and what I considered the safer option
I remember your input at the time
The chain issues put me off
Having the knowledge and software to check values is such an advantage
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The 3.2 v6 fsi is a very different animal to the more preferred 2.0tfsi, which, as we know, is so much more tunable and versatile.
That said, the 3.2 can be a nice motor to have under the bonnet, the gov has made it less desirable these days due to taxes etc but worth a look all the same.
All the petrol V6's and V8's are expensive lumps, its just the nature of the beast.
That said, the 3.2 can be a nice motor to have under the bonnet, the gov has made it less desirable these days due to taxes etc but worth a look all the same.
All the petrol V6's and V8's are expensive lumps, its just the nature of the beast.
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It's that tricky decision, does one opt for a1.8T , 2.0FSI or 2.0TFSI -based car and tune it to one's preference, or go V6 or V8 , just based on a cost per cylinder / BHP view , the 2.0t is by far the best choice, but it lacks in some dept, including soundtrack which you can only get from the big V lumps and sheer grunt, and of course any work on the big V engines will be expense just due to the increasd cylinders, fuel pumps etc.
You pay your money and take your choices.
And not forgetting the oil burner options, well worth looking into too.
You pay your money and take your choices.
And not forgetting the oil burner options, well worth looking into too.
The mate with the edition 35 had an immaculate mk 1 tt 3.2 manual that he let go for far less than it was worth ,just needed to sell it at the wrong time with an expanding family
Such a good combination and super fun to drive
I fear all the good ones have ended up with enthusiasts and collectors by now who have no need or want to sell
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Such a good combination and super fun to drive
I fear all the good ones have ended up with enthusiasts and collectors by now who have no need or want to sell
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@Charlie Farley i'd meausure the center caps and get an audi logo centercap. They do resemble the Y spoke OEM wheels audi has on offer for the 2nd gen A5 models. My neighbours son has them on his a5 coupe.
Checked the centre caps last night, bang on 68mm, so certain Audi items will fit fine.
@Charlie Farley make sure the 3.2 v6 is actually a quattro, most of the a4 b7's with that engine were FWD.
Not a good day today, spent all day re-doing security all around El Ranchero
We had a visit last night from some ****holes that broke into the property.
Not the house but the outbuilding/garage, I confronted them, but they made a dash for it along with items of mine.
Police dog team tracked them for a fair way but lost them in the end, where a car had been parked, so their getaway car no doubt.
They took a fair bit of small power tools inc my Snap-On tools, not happy at all, also some expensive arborist chainsaws.
A claim will be going in for that lot, which is not the point really as the snapon tools are hard to replace now.
We had a visit last night from some ****holes that broke into the property.
Not the house but the outbuilding/garage, I confronted them, but they made a dash for it along with items of mine.
Police dog team tracked them for a fair way but lost them in the end, where a car had been parked, so their getaway car no doubt.
They took a fair bit of small power tools inc my Snap-On tools, not happy at all, also some expensive arborist chainsaws.
A claim will be going in for that lot, which is not the point really as the snapon tools are hard to replace now.
It's the worst of times for all that. Every other day, scumbag druggies are shoplifting in the village; a very middle class rural one I might add.
Sorry to hear about this Rob!
Rob I'm very sorry to read this. I'm seeing more and more videos on FB about car boot sales selling stolen power tools etc....it's clear as day they are all stolen, it's big business that's been happening for years.
Main thing is you're ok of course and fair play for confronting them, as if you hadn't then most likely a lot more would've been taken...we got burgled here (in the house) many years ago, not nice.
Main thing is you're ok of course and fair play for confronting them, as if you hadn't then most likely a lot more would've been taken...we got burgled here (in the house) many years ago, not nice.
I have no good words for what happened, Rob. So I'll refrain from saying them. Hope you can sort it all out with the insurance, and hopefully you can replace it all.
New boots on the old barge this morning, not sure yet , will need a few hours to grow on me , but a better fit in the wheel arches.
it looks good
i am battling an airlock in the cooling system... it refuses to come out... i might have to seringe feed coolant into the heater matrix, no it's not leaking it has been backflushed yet it refuses to heat up.. turn heating on and it quickly drops down to reading 50 degrees on the coolant temp gauge... turn heating off an in the same time period of it cooling down the coolant temp goes back to 90 degrees and stays there.
Opened the bleed nipple on the hard pipe... no problem steady flow of coolant, pull return pipe back on the heater matrix and there is still no stream of coolant coming out... all this with a running engine and no results yet....
I hate this been busy all morning, but aparently the b7 is known for being hard to bleed when it acts up... I haven't jacked the car up yet to change the highest point i'll do ythat after using a seringe to pull air out of the return pipe... ( it's going to take a while... but i've had enough of driving around in a fridge)
i am battling an airlock in the cooling system... it refuses to come out... i might have to seringe feed coolant into the heater matrix, no it's not leaking it has been backflushed yet it refuses to heat up.. turn heating on and it quickly drops down to reading 50 degrees on the coolant temp gauge... turn heating off an in the same time period of it cooling down the coolant temp goes back to 90 degrees and stays there.
Opened the bleed nipple on the hard pipe... no problem steady flow of coolant, pull return pipe back on the heater matrix and there is still no stream of coolant coming out... all this with a running engine and no results yet....
I hate this been busy all morning, but aparently the b7 is known for being hard to bleed when it acts up... I haven't jacked the car up yet to change the highest point i'll do ythat after using a seringe to pull air out of the return pipe... ( it's going to take a while... but i've had enough of driving around in a fridge)
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They only tend to be problematic with airlocks and it’s when the heater matrix is blocked or has a very reduced flow .
I noticed on my b7 that the bleeding was very quick and easy with a new matrix but prior to that it was allways a real pain and I don’t think I ever really got all the air out until the new matrix went in.
I have a spare new matrix here if you need one.
I noticed on my b7 that the bleeding was very quick and easy with a new matrix but prior to that it was allways a real pain and I don’t think I ever really got all the air out until the new matrix went in.
I have a spare new matrix here if you need one.
It just a low pressure system and any real reduced flow through the matrix just leaves an air lock stuck in the return line.
You could try running an air line into the expansion tank line to help push it round but any large blockage will just cause you problems.
You could try running an air line into the expansion tank line to help push it round but any large blockage will just cause you problems.
To be honest backflushing rarely works , it just dislodges scale build up within the matrix and Just makes things worse.
When I replaced mine back in January it initially looked ok but under closer inspection it was chocked up , so had to be replaced, did the swap and all good straight away and bleeding was a piece of of cake.
When I replaced mine back in January it initially looked ok but under closer inspection it was chocked up , so had to be replaced, did the swap and all good straight away and bleeding was a piece of of cake.
Off course the real pain is swapping out the matrix, but it is probably your only solution.
i hope not, just seringed coolant into the bleeder on the return pipe... it took 2 coffee mugs of coolant before it stated flowing some out... and when it did it came out with alot of little bubbles.. seems to me that it finally is getting the air out... just came in to warmup a bit... I did it all with the engine off so now have it running at idle to hit 90 degrees so the system is completely flowing. ... seriously i hate this.. ps change matrix is full dash out job right? or can you just remove it from one side?
What I found was, after spending forever bleeding with the old matrix in place, it would be hot when at high engine speed when driving but only luke warm on idle .
No air was to be seen from the bleed point on the heater return pipe, but there was just such reduced flow through the matrix that there was no other real option other than replace it.
I could have just spent more time trying to vent the system but it was never going to last long.
B7 matrix replacement is a dash out job as far as official channels are concerned, but there are some work arounds that work very well and save a lot of time and hassle. its still a pain to do but just a bit less than the official route.
No air was to be seen from the bleed point on the heater return pipe, but there was just such reduced flow through the matrix that there was no other real option other than replace it.
I could have just spent more time trying to vent the system but it was never going to last long.
B7 matrix replacement is a dash out job as far as official channels are concerned, but there are some work arounds that work very well and save a lot of time and hassle. its still a pain to do but just a bit less than the official route.
worth doing to be honest, just to get a nice, reliable warm car in the winter.
it was all fine than all of a sudden it started acting up... i replaced that pipe for an original, the one that goes from the hard coolant pipe over the engine to the heater mixer on the head.
that's now all fine and dandy but nope still no heat ( correction i had heat for about 3 mintes just now than it went luke warm( better than before) but before all of this my car would be hot at 21 degrees to the point that i kept it at 19 on the climatronic.
that's now all fine and dandy but nope still no heat ( correction i had heat for about 3 mintes just now than it went luke warm( better than before) but before all of this my car would be hot at 21 degrees to the point that i kept it at 19 on the climatronic.
Mweh i'll just order a new heater matix as the rest all works as it should... it's the original, i should've changed it in this summer but it was working just fine... a well 20 years of service isn't bad... it could've waited until it hit 21 but so be it.... just need to find a place to do the job as it's going to be bad weather again.
Looks stunning that Rob, a very nice choice....I've never seen valves inside the rims before...is it a new thing?