Could do a duel caliper rear set up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
I don't care what anyone else thinks, big Brembos look so much nicer than the OE cast lumps of steel.
Last edited:
You only need to do the S4 rear upgrade, that the best one for the rear; it complements the 18z on the front perfectly.
S5 disks and 18z on the old just before it found a new home.
I'm sourcing a set at the moment for the allroad.
Have you thought about remapping the suspension
Get some 20” lemans or d2 s8s
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some 20” diamond cut mtm bi motos on flea bay at the min ,very expensive but very cool
There’s no pockets in coffins
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There’s no pockets in coffins
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2k and 1 has been welded ,no wonder the haven’t sold
I have the 19 versions in storage ..I should probably cash in and buy the 18z
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My Bentleys would look superb on that
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Audi never got it wrong with alloy styling,people try to be unique and there’s nothing wrong but oem always looks best
The A4 b7 groups on Facebook make me cringe ,if you want to see how not to do it go there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sorting out the calipers first whilst i chomp on changing rims.
Currently have the 19" S4's on the allroad and I think it looks very sutle, but I can never just leave things alone....
Currently have the 19" S4's on the allroad and I think it looks very sutle, but I can never just leave things alone....
Was behind a b8 saloon badged up as a s4 ,he’d done everything but bought the right rear valance ,twin duel piped but he’d obviously just jig sawed the right hand side out ..badly ,pipes stuck out further on a completely different height
Why bother ,the people that your fooling aren’t worth fooling and it just looks chavy to those that know ,spend the money on maintaining a stock car that’ll retain more value
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why bother ,the people that your fooling aren’t worth fooling and it just looks chavy to those that know ,spend the money on maintaining a stock car that’ll retain more value
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Indeedy.
Its hard to get that special look that is right but very easy to make a right hash of it and look rubbish.
I noticed the hatchet job on the valance before I noticed the exhaust fumes on one side only ,lack of v8 noise and smell of a clogged dpf
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But hey, each to there own, if it works for him then albeit.
I expect he will realise it's a bit naff one day.
LOL ofcourse i forgot you were working there too and was part of that conversation...
Nonetheless Northpole... what I said is and was the case, particularly about standard vs higher powered models having different hex keys... whatever your mates told you. Believe me I could write a thesis about the VAG PD 2.0TDI blinking oil pumps and why driving any oil pump from a balance shaft was the daftest of ideas in the first place, lol. It would be very boring but I would have checked my facts, beforehand. If however you can point to any VAG bulletin proving otherwise I stand to be corrected.
100%! My brother had a very convincing M5 clone once, quads and all, that was really a bog standard 520D. You could never escape the clatter of that 2 litre oil burner, no matter the remap.
I used to think my factory 18" Ronals were pretty boring. But they've grown on me and are very tough, and do look good when in perfect condition.
Yes this is why i pointed to people breaking mk1 q7's and mk1 Touareg's both of them have the 18z setup and somehow people seem to forget that both these cars have them on the lower powered diesel engines ( mk1 q7 the 3.0 tdi and the mk1 Touareg the 2.5 tdi) if you are lucky enough you can take the complete set at a decent enough price... or even less if they just want the car out of the way. It does mean in most cases you'll have to bring your own tools, but in my experiene that way you usually get a full set that isn't siezed, i'd still give them a refurb though.
refrain from getting them from any Skoda or Seat as on those they are only on the highest powered Cupra and VRS models and people ask about 200 pounds more for them because scene tax.
that looks fine just the way it is... but hey wheels are like shoes sometimes you just want a fresher looking pair in a different style.
Just think how sick the allroad models would look if they didn't have that contrasting colour on the added bodykit.... I'd just do the greyish bit the alluminium coloured bits i'd leave alone... it would make it look more blended in and a bit more like a widebody... I so wished i could find a project one at a decent price just to do that
@B7Tourer can't get that data as the lot i used to work with over there have all moved on to work elsewhere, if i did i would've asked one of them to send me the data. 15 years is a long time lol.. Anyway, it's irrelavant as in the UK they didn't do it at all, as i can't find it as a recall or mention anywhere in Elsawin.
that all said been looking at a6 allroads... can only find the newer models and at those prices no thanks... a mk2 q7 7 seater ( with the rear seats folded flat or taken out) will be roomy enough... it'll also make for very easy access getting in and out of it... but i do know they can have electrical gremlins.... need to look into that further as i rather not spend time solving electrical problems.
that all said been looking at a6 allroads... can only find the newer models and at those prices no thanks... a mk2 q7 7 seater ( with the rear seats folded flat or taken out) will be roomy enough... it'll also make for very easy access getting in and out of it... but i do know they can have electrical gremlins.... need to look into that further as i rather not spend time solving electrical problems.
Last edited:
I kinda like the contrasting areas, which makes it stand out a bit from the rest, there was a factory option for it to be colour coded but mine is two tone.
There was a nice low milage(90k) blue c6 allroad on auto trader recently , low milage etc , looked nice , i think it was around the £3500 mark .
blue no thanks either white or black... the rest of the colours are a no. I haven't seen one yet that's been fully colourcoded by the factory. I did look around for images and only found 1 wrapped in matt black but that was the first model allroad. And i almost pulled the trigger on a Q7 yesterday, but realised it had way more problems than stated when i got there. So i walked away... to good to break, but to set it right would be way to expensive. Nevermind one will pop up when i least expect it 
Aha, nope, it doesn't look right. So that's that idea down the drain. Might be because they are light colours it doesn't work... I'll go and see if i can find a black one that should contrast nicely with the aluminium coloured parts... nevermind I used a quick filter in photoshop and nope it simply looks wrong... even on darker colours.
Last edited:
brilliant, just broke the plastic conduit for the wiringloom of the coilpacks... wouldn't have happened if i didn.t place my hand in the wrong area whilst picking up the dropped oilcap....
a well found it online will order it tomorrow. My fault entirely but really annoyed it happened... will be going for a black one, I won't pay £3 extra for the red one.
a well found it online will order it tomorrow. My fault entirely but really annoyed it happened... will be going for a black one, I won't pay £3 extra for the red one.
Not exactly what I had planned
Booked in for alignment,that ended abruptly when they discovered my tie rod end was seized so spent time correcting that
Thought I’d ease and unseize a few other bits while I under there for future projects
Also removed sill trims and started to prep the jack points as I have a mate coming round to sure up my jacking points next week
Seriously considering mud guards now
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Booked in for alignment,that ended abruptly when they discovered my tie rod end was seized so spent time correcting that
Thought I’d ease and unseize a few other bits while I under there for future projects
Also removed sill trims and started to prep the jack points as I have a mate coming round to sure up my jacking points next week
Seriously considering mud guards now
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not exactly what I had planned
Booked in for alignment,that ended abruptly when they discovered my tie rod end was seized so spent time correcting that
Thought I’d ease and unseize a few other bits while I under there for future projects
Also removed sill trims and started to prep the jack points as I have a mate coming round to sure up my jacking points next week
Seriously considering mud guards now
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry ,can [mention]Administrators [/mention] delete one please
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's slightly alarming Jamsmoo
Last time mine were partially off was about 2/3 years ago when I had new wings fitted; both sides looked good in that department but when I recently Lanoguarded the underneath, I did have to treat the jacking point seams, that were showing some small signs of corrosion. What is your mate doing to prep your jacking points? How did you remove the covers? My brother who had then a body shop did the work at that time. I'm not sure mudguards will help much, since they just protect the plastic really. Mud and water get in through the inner wings. They add to drag and noise too and mud can get behind them corroding the wing edges.My fronts were fine for tracking but the rear eccentrics were not; very common. I've since replaced all those. If you can best to get a full 4 wheel alignment done since the rears being off affect the fronts too.
That's slightly alarming Jamsmoo
My fronts were fine for tracking but the rear eccentrics were not; very common. I've since replaced all those. If you can best to get a full 4 wheel alignment done since the rears being off affect the fronts too.
I’m leaving it in his capable hands ,he welds plant machinery on site ,digger boom arms etc
I’ve asked for 25x3-5mm flat bar approx 8” stitched centrally across the jack points
My nearside front is weak after the car slipped on a jack and folded it in
I’ve got an mot coming up and while it wasn’t an issue last year I’m aware it hasn’t got any better the times it’s been jacked up this last year
I usually use a more structural jacking point further under with my low profile trolley jack but that’s not an option road side etc ,it’s a 4 tonne beast so isn’t kept in the car lol
The trims are held by many t20 screws from underneath,each wheel arch and beneath some removable trim along the door shuts
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m aware I’m going to have to trim the cill covers to refit but that’s a no brainer as a trade off
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk