What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Fine choice, I had 4's on the car when I got it, then went 5's all round....both are a cracking tyre.
34PSI for me is perfect, saloon SLine, with never any luggage and hardly ever any other people lol
34PSI for me is perfect, saloon SLine, with never any luggage and hardly ever any other people lol
No Matt, I'm pretty confident not - that's one of the things they address in their FAQs. It can be an issue when you clean and re-oil them improperly after, 75,000, but as long as you follow the instructions properly and use their kit that shouldn't be an issue. I should add MAFs rarely go wrong; people always disconnect them and change them first thing, down a rabbit hole that is more often other issues - a MAF fault code can often be triggered when there's nothing wrong with it too, beforehand. Plus if you disconnect one, chasing that bunny, you will put it an automatic fault condition, masking the real culprit anyway. They get a fault code, disconnect the MAF; the engine runs great because it has fallen back on a table of standard values in the ECU; bingo they think, faulty MAF.
Digging through some old forums, the oft repeated mantra, from some well respected techs, was: 'STOP disconnecting the MAF to chase faults!' The trick with them is, if they do fail - mine is original - then you must replace with OEM. Knock-off MAFs are worse than useless. I specifically paid more for the K&N filter, after reading many reviews and looking at other high flow makes. They have had a good reputation over a long time.
I think I might know what is contributory to the idling smoke when warm, possibly. The dipstick shows an overfill on the oil; I can't see how this could have happened. I specifically bought litre bottles of Liqui Moly, so as I could add the right amount accurately. I flushed then drained for a long time until the drips stopped; and then I added about 3.5 litres (capacity of this engine is 3.8l) checked the dipstick a couple of times; ran it for 5 minutes; checked again. There might be a slight incline down to the dipstick on the gravel carpark, hard to tell. I can only think quite a bit of oil, say half a litre or so, gets trapped in the engine.
In any case, I'm not overly worried nor in a rush to drain some off. I never go over 2.5k revs 95% of the time and very very rarely touch 3K. I was undiligent though in checking other fluids when I serviced it: The power steering was on min and the washer bottle was empty. So I rectified that this morning, overfilled the steering at first - so easy to do, since the max is less than half the full header. I siphoned some off and refilled to the correct max.
I'm in talks with a very reputable tuning company for a gentle economy tune, that may help limit smoke a little too, and add some useful low end torque. I have adapted the EGR this morning. The filter hasn't arrived yet so we'll see with that too.
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I might further add, there was an ECU software update, back in the day, something like 9906, for this very thing - the smoke due to incorrectly adapted EGR. My BRE doesn't have that and is on an earlier version. Very few people knew about it and it wasn't a recall, as such, only a good dealer would do it if was properly maintained at Audi through it's waranty period, and after. I doubt that's ever been the case here.
I have no idea how to now get this update; either from Audi or any independent specialist - they are so old, I doubt anyone's is aware of it, any longer. Maybe NHN Nigel? Nigel?
I have no idea how to now get this update; either from Audi or any independent specialist - they are so old, I doubt anyone's is aware of it, any longer. Maybe NHN Nigel? Nigel?
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All Audi dealers have access to those files as they are on the ODIS system... they'll probably charge you for it, but i don't know how much.
It'll be a reflash of the software on the ecu so shouldn't take long, but they might charge you an hour for the check afterwards (they'll probably check if all modules respond as they should).
But with it being the BRE engine, they shouldn't charge that much. The engine has seen a few ecu updates afaik from them being in the vw tourans and golfs.
It'll be a reflash of the software on the ecu so shouldn't take long, but they might charge you an hour for the check afterwards (they'll probably check if all modules respond as they should).
But with it being the BRE engine, they shouldn't charge that much. The engine has seen a few ecu updates afaik from them being in the vw tourans and golfs.
Well I'm very happy to report that the adaption of the EGR valve, seems to have completely sorted it - no more smoke at warm idle! I just thought it wasn't really necessary, but that seems not to be the case.
You don't need VCDS/OBDEleven BTW. The iPhone app for OBDEleven is very limited and I couldn't be bothered to charge up an old Android phone I have that now lasts about 10 minutes on a full charge. You can simply switch off ignition; switch it back on for 3 seconds, then switch it off and wait 45 seconds for the adaption to take place, since there is still power to the ECU for this time.
You don't need VCDS/OBDEleven BTW. The iPhone app for OBDEleven is very limited and I couldn't be bothered to charge up an old Android phone I have that now lasts about 10 minutes on a full charge. You can simply switch off ignition; switch it back on for 3 seconds, then switch it off and wait 45 seconds for the adaption to take place, since there is still power to the ECU for this time.
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I had a very nice drive down to Liss this afternoon in the old barge, to pick up the 12mm spacers, and I have to say it drives superbly, especially for a big estate car.
In dynamic mode, it really handles well and so much better with the 19" alloys on with 245/35 tyres.
The v6 2.7tdi lump with tiptronic gearbox is just so smooth, very civilised indeed.
That all said, it's a very different drive from the B7 bus, which I realy loved driving, must get a shift on a sort out a suitable replacement now.
In dynamic mode, it really handles well and so much better with the 19" alloys on with 245/35 tyres.
The v6 2.7tdi lump with tiptronic gearbox is just so smooth, very civilised indeed.
That all said, it's a very different drive from the B7 bus, which I realy loved driving, must get a shift on a sort out a suitable replacement now.
I noticed a few very nice country pups along the way, it may be nice to do a micro meet at one soon chaps everyone welcome.
somewhere within a 45min radius drive from my home location so that would make it easy to reach for a small meet up.
I think within the red zone is 45min drive for me so will be closer for others or maybe a bit further.
somewhere within a 45min radius drive from my home location so that would make it easy to reach for a small meet up.
I think within the red zone is 45min drive for me so will be closer for others or maybe a bit further.
Decided to fit the spacers this morning, whilst the wheels were off, a good time to check over things.
Looks like the front suspension arms and linkages , pinch bolt ,have been done very recently so thats a bonus.
Looks like the front suspension arms and linkages , pinch bolt ,have been done very recently so thats a bonus.
Hi matt, yes all seems ok with the air suspension and it works very well.
I tend to leave it in dynamic mode which is the lowest ride heigh ride and sport damping most of the time but if the going gets rough I choose a more appropiate mode , its great for with big speed bumps , just crank up the ride height....
No alerts in VCDS, and no dashboard fault lights; nothing visible on the units themselves, so touchwood all good.
I tend to leave it in dynamic mode which is the lowest ride heigh ride and sport damping most of the time but if the going gets rough I choose a more appropiate mode , its great for with big speed bumps , just crank up the ride height....
No alerts in VCDS, and no dashboard fault lights; nothing visible on the units themselves, so touchwood all good.
Sounds brilliant! Can't wait to see it in the flesh, never really seen one up close, and certainly not an Allroad....Hi matt, yes all seems ok with the air suspension and it works very well.
I tend to leave it in dynamic mode which is the lowest ride heigh ride and sport damping most of the time but if the going gets rough I choose a more appropiate mode , its great for with big speed bumps , just crank up the ride height....
No alerts in VCDS, and no dashboard fault lights; nothing visible on the units themselves, so touchwood all good.
I just got a new rear left side abs sensors, went to replace it .. the bolt that holds the sensor is seized. . I gave up and put it back together. I will go and ask at the vag specialist how much he wants for the job.
Since the weather is changing and I still have a problem with my right shoulder, not really want to make that worse, as the recovery period on that has been stated to be at least 9 months up to a year. I did the right rear sensor last year, but it was nicer weather. Bolt was also seized but managed to get it out with the aid of a pair of molegrip pliers.
I might just endup doing it myself, If the quoted price is not to my liking (it probably will just make me laugh and drive off)
Since the weather is changing and I still have a problem with my right shoulder, not really want to make that worse, as the recovery period on that has been stated to be at least 9 months up to a year. I did the right rear sensor last year, but it was nicer weather. Bolt was also seized but managed to get it out with the aid of a pair of molegrip pliers.
I might just endup doing it myself, If the quoted price is not to my liking (it probably will just make me laugh and drive off)
Just a follow up and clarification on the idling smoke I had: when I said it was smoking at warm idle; in truth, I only noticed it twice, and both times were after very short trips, round the corner literally, after I'd had longer trips beforehand.
I've mentioned before trying Millers fuel additive with cheap diesel. Well at the same time it disappeared I'd gone back to premium fuel. I don't blame the Millers so much as the cheap fuel. Maybe the EGR adaption has definitely helped too, but I don't intend to return to that fuel again to see. What I'm sure of is that on a short trip, a large amount of unburnt diesel can get into the exhaust, before the EGR has time to work properly, and this is what I was seeing. I think my cheap aftermarket EGR doesn't help either, but since it now works seemingly absolutely fine, I won't be changing it for an OEM quality one, unless it fails again.
But the moral of the story is if you do have to change your EGR and ASV on a diesel, I would definitely make sure you go OEM, as with anything really on the engine. Pay cheap, buy twice, or whatever the expression is.
I've mentioned before trying Millers fuel additive with cheap diesel. Well at the same time it disappeared I'd gone back to premium fuel. I don't blame the Millers so much as the cheap fuel. Maybe the EGR adaption has definitely helped too, but I don't intend to return to that fuel again to see. What I'm sure of is that on a short trip, a large amount of unburnt diesel can get into the exhaust, before the EGR has time to work properly, and this is what I was seeing. I think my cheap aftermarket EGR doesn't help either, but since it now works seemingly absolutely fine, I won't be changing it for an OEM quality one, unless it fails again.
But the moral of the story is if you do have to change your EGR and ASV on a diesel, I would definitely make sure you go OEM, as with anything really on the engine. Pay cheap, buy twice, or whatever the expression is.
just went down and got qoated half an hour plus vat since i already have a new part for fitting.... not bad as it's just shy of 40 pounds but they are booked solid until the 5th of November... no space of quickly doing it... so i might just DIY it today, permitting the weather doesn't get worse than it already is. ( had a ****** good weekend for it to actup but no it decided to wait until the bad weather started). Anyway, time to get the molegrip pliers out and get that little stupid bolt off... don't think i'll wait that long at all. as that one sensor acting up turns the complete sstem off... nothing wrong with my brakes and i don't drive like a wannabe racer so no chance of a mayor problem but i dislike warning lights being on.
And now the lights are off and i didn't do anything yet.... the other sensor did the same to the point when i just couldn't be bothered and i replaced it... this will be done but not today... i was going to, but somehow today is busy... i keep getting interupted, so I put my tools back and i'll tackle it another day. Lights are off without me erasing the codes... i did clean all the dirt of the sensor itself yesterday but it was still persistent in holding onto the error.. mweh i got the new one just a matter of finding the time to sort it out.
Took my time today and replaced the left rear abs sensors. They should've changed the setup that the cable clips onto the sensor instead of the sensor having the long cable that needs to be routed through the bodywork and pulled through.
Just looks like you and me, Northpole at the moment, gone pretty quiet here.
So today my mechanic kindly lent me his ramp for an hour. I finished off the Lanoguard that I'd missed - and I'd missed a lot! All the rear subframe really. There is very minor surface corrosion at odd points along the chassis, including towards the inner sills. The subframes are solid but a lot of the shultz I put there two years ago was just peeling off. I removed it; treated with Moto grease then, liberally sprayed the whole lot, including the aforementioned. I am very confident the car is solid enough for the next twenty years, if need be, as long as I maintain this regularly, as a service item. I am convinced only Lanoguard or equivalent really works. The shultz was Waxoyled and it still dried out and peeled. What I found on the body was consistent too with the lifespan and limits of galvanising, which I've written about before. But these are exceptionhally long lived vehicles, if you maintain them - it's a very easy quick job too.
The rear toe eccentric bolts arrived but they were different from one another - even though they had the same correct part number. The supplier has accepted manufacturer's error and is sending new ones; but we loosened off the originals and found them perfectly adjustable and not siezed, anyway.
So today my mechanic kindly lent me his ramp for an hour. I finished off the Lanoguard that I'd missed - and I'd missed a lot! All the rear subframe really. There is very minor surface corrosion at odd points along the chassis, including towards the inner sills. The subframes are solid but a lot of the shultz I put there two years ago was just peeling off. I removed it; treated with Moto grease then, liberally sprayed the whole lot, including the aforementioned. I am very confident the car is solid enough for the next twenty years, if need be, as long as I maintain this regularly, as a service item. I am convinced only Lanoguard or equivalent really works. The shultz was Waxoyled and it still dried out and peeled. What I found on the body was consistent too with the lifespan and limits of galvanising, which I've written about before. But these are exceptionhally long lived vehicles, if you maintain them - it's a very easy quick job too.
The rear toe eccentric bolts arrived but they were different from one another - even though they had the same correct part number. The supplier has accepted manufacturer's error and is sending new ones; but we loosened off the originals and found them perfectly adjustable and not siezed, anyway.
Sounds nicely sealed up Steve, ready for the fast approaching winter! There's a guy on YouTube, Mustie1, always fixing up stuff in the US. From sit on lawnmowers to mopeds, old VAG wagons etc. His videos are great to watch, there's nothing he can't fix it seems.
He's always sworn by melting toilet rim wax and mixing with chain bar oil. I'd never heard of either products, but toilet rim wax is a thick ring of wax used when installing a toilet bowl....maybe years ago, and chain bar oil lubricates chainsaws. Once melted and mixed, I think he used a compressed air bodyshop type gun to spray it under the vehicle.
It's crazy how in the US the dry weather state cars like in Arizona / California (as opposed to rust belt cars further north) are so clean underneath and rust free....zero corrosion and worst case is just dusty. Even the Japanese stuff lasts forever, and that's saying something.
He's always sworn by melting toilet rim wax and mixing with chain bar oil. I'd never heard of either products, but toilet rim wax is a thick ring of wax used when installing a toilet bowl....maybe years ago, and chain bar oil lubricates chainsaws. Once melted and mixed, I think he used a compressed air bodyshop type gun to spray it under the vehicle.
It's crazy how in the US the dry weather state cars like in Arizona / California (as opposed to rust belt cars further north) are so clean underneath and rust free....zero corrosion and worst case is just dusty. Even the Japanese stuff lasts forever, and that's saying something.
Thanks Matt! Sounds interesting about the guy in the States; yeah they're very lucky in parts - years ago I saw some imported 50s barges from California, that had never had any protection underneath, totally rust free!
The Lanoguard stuff apart from anything else is non-flammable too. You've got an immaculate unicorn example of the B7; but I think this treatment is pretty much recommended for anyone that aims at longterm keep, with these cars. It was very very solid everywhere but more slight surface rust in parts than I'd first supposed; a bit like you found in your arches. The galvanising has already held up remarkably on good examples; but it's from now it will start to deteriorate, if not maintained regularly, I reckon. It's so easy to do, as I say, I intend to do this every autumn now.
The Lanoguard stuff apart from anything else is non-flammable too. You've got an immaculate unicorn example of the B7; but I think this treatment is pretty much recommended for anyone that aims at longterm keep, with these cars. It was very very solid everywhere but more slight surface rust in parts than I'd first supposed; a bit like you found in your arches. The galvanising has already held up remarkably on good examples; but it's from now it will start to deteriorate, if not maintained regularly, I reckon. It's so easy to do, as I say, I intend to do this every autumn now.
it depends on the state they are in some areas are mostly dry and the cars there don't suffer from rust... but cars from the wetter areas rust equally as bad as the cars here. I was looking at Lanoguard but never used it, I'm not planning on keeping my b7 for 4 ever as i already noticed that the space in the back is not big enough, and i need a car that is easier to get in and out of. Never the less I'll keep up the maintenance and try to keep it in the best condition... replace parts with new as needed and enjoy it whilst i still own it. Looking at SUV's was wanting a Q7 model but kept looking around and found some more sensible ones with less of a bad reputation (mostly from the other VAG stable cars) but I'm still looking and not in a hurry at all.
In the meantime, i will keep going doing the things i want to do to the B7 whilst i own it..
In the meantime, i will keep going doing the things i want to do to the B7 whilst i own it..
I was looking at them lol for that exact reason a6 this bigger, can be lifted up for easier access, can be dropped down in sportmode etc... but finding one in what I want to spend is not going to happen unless I get a damaged one or a engine problem car or a non runner...Get an allroad.
After some initial doubts that I’d made the right choice with an A6 Allroad I’m really enjoying it, does exactly what I was hoping for and more.
Good C6 Allroads are in very short supply though. I think I was just lucky finding my one .
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A mate shared this that turned up at his breakers the other day ,a real shame this
A lovely avant off to the scrap yard in the sky
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Agreed, doesn't look 21 years old....another one swinging in the breeze.
It is a shame but I'd lay odds on that being a classic driving too close smash; breaking hard at the last moment and swerving to try and avoid the inevitable. Just like the idiot in a crappy Captur almost rear ended me yesterday - I exited a hotel where I go for a coffee, saw this older gentleman, get in his car and follow me; in the same direction, he kept coming up around a metre from my bumper - I didn't clock at first; I wasn't even trying, but it must of irked him his brand new car couldn't keep up with a 19 year old; then on the fast A road, I saw a queue ahead and slowed down from 60 in plenty of time; suddenly I see him skidding almost into my rear, which would have hit me in exactly the same manner, as this B6 did. Needless to say he got some stern verbals and looks from me, and was forced to drive at a much more gentle pace from then on, as I took the pace down.
This is why the Euro safety tests specificly test for this kind of off centre impact on car structures.
What do we think for centre caps guys
I ordered the abt ones without thinking the oem ones would fit ,kinda leaning towards the oem but not 100%
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Would 100% be OEM for me, the ABT ones to me look a bit blingy....but I am 50! lol
The OEM's are very smart with the chrome ring around them, a very nice cap.
The OEM's are very smart with the chrome ring around them, a very nice cap.
Agreed ,blingy was the word that came to my 51year old mind lol
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I reckon black OEM would look best, with those allys; since those grey ones fit so too would the blacks.
For the win! I've heard powder coat can look good for 15 years...I guess it depends on how they get cared for, but so much tougher than paint.Powder coat
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GTechniq wheel armour is a nice ceramic coating for wheels. Dead easy to use, nothing to worry about, and when I used it on my Subaru it lasted about a year.
I must do the B7 wheels at some point. I keep them nice and after cleaning them, a spritz of Gyeon Wet Coat and rinse off keeps them easier to clean next time.
I'm only on standard 18" SLine Ronals...few marks on them from the previous owner, but nothing nasty.
I'm 63 and both look ok.
It depends on your preference really. OEM would be more in keeping with Audi fitment, but whatever works, I like to keep an open mind.
It depends on your preference really. OEM would be more in keeping with Audi fitment, but whatever works, I like to keep an open mind.
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I reckon black OEM would look best, with those allys; since those grey ones fit so too would the blacks.
Reckon there’s some black ones somewhere in my hoard
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black ones and if you can't find them... the rings and chrome edge can be popped out, spray paint it satin black /high gloss black ( or wrap it satin or highgloss black) and put them back together... i've done this numerous of times with that exact model of oem centre caps