Will one from a b6 work ,I have 2 doors and glass etc in garage
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What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Will one from a b6 work ,I have 2 doors and glass etc in garage
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Not sure on that, in therory yes but there may be revised parts .
A cross-check re check part numbers will confirm.
I might fix it then unplug her switch so she can’t constantly adjust it
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I could do without the steps, but fyi over 13k steps.Not good ,At least you got some steps in and sorted it roadside
Reminds me ,while picking the wheels up
The mrs has a tendency to adjust her window non stop so it’s just so ,always annoys me
Today while she was fiddling I heard a bang from inside the door ,the window wouldn’t go down but thankfully went up
I can hear the motor working but the window doesn’t operate
What do we think ? Snapped cable ?
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Sounds like you are bang on the money there but best to pull the doorcard. It could be something simple that can be rectified without it costing money. On an old A3 8p I had this happen and it was part of the frame of the window mechanism had popped of window fell down came back up fine and didn't go back down .. sorted it with putting a new rivet to hold the frame.. costed me nothing just some time and a cut on my hand from the sharp metal frame... wear thick gloves if you need to do that job
Sorry to hear this, mate. You've had a run of rotten bad luck recently. It happens and usually all close together on any car. Fortunately you seem very useful with a spanner and can save a ton of dough, doing it yourself.
Recently had to fix mine - it had been making a crunching sound for a while then gave up the ghost. It's always the regulator hardly ever the motor. The part is cheap enough from eBay. One word of advise I can give you is to silicone grease the channels afterwards - you may find the window runs out of them at the top. I thought it was fitted incorrectly, and when it ran out it would bounce up and down trying to find the closed position. After a liberal spray I have had no further problem with it, after a few months. Getting some of the by the window trim, inside and out, back in place was a pig and I've still to adjust the chrome strip slighty.
yeah that is the only goodthing about it, i'm capable enough to sort stuff out that others would have to pay a bundle for. I would hate to ask how much they would charge for changing that pipe considering what actually needs to be removed to do it properly ( basically the whole intake side needs to be removed) i try to work around it... yes it means that 9 out of 10 times, I end up with severe pains, but I won't remove the complete intake to replace or fix a coolant hose. If i can touch it partly I'll find a way to do it without removing stuff or remove as little as possible.Sorry to hear this, mate. You've had a run of rotten bad luck recently. It happens and usually all close together on any car. Fortunately you seem very useful with a spanner and can save a ton of dough, doing it yourself.
Just to add, there should be no rivets to contend with on the B7 regulators - they should come pre-assembled. Not sure about the B6 ones, but both should be technically interchangeable, since the doors are largely the same.
The age of these cars mean it's very important to keep an eye on all the rubber hoses. My radiator fail recently was right out of the blue, never had a leak before, but logical. I'm going to be checking everything from below on the ramp, this week, when I service and lanoguard her. I'm going to condition a lot of rubber there too, after checking.
The car is 20 years old now being and one of the first b7's ( 2005 plate) to be sold in the UK, rubber pipes/hoses that are original are at that age where they stay fine if untouched... but touch them or work on something nearby and be unlucky enough to disturb them they'll show their age and spring or pop a leak. As i said it leaked before and i knew i should've replaced it but the repair worked ( cut the worst part off than taped it up with self fusing tape) but it finally gave up. it held for a year so can't complain about it. It is a 20 year old pipe after all.
I did have a check this morning and all seems to be fine no leaking that i can find coming from my fix. I'll go and order the pipe today though so when it comes i can decide to either leave my fix in place or just replace it with the oem pipe. ( think it'll be the latter as it takes away the uncertainty when something goes wrong again)
But yeah with cars hitting the 20 year mark, the first thing to go are always the rubber parts, be it CV boots, coolant pipes, engine mounts etc they just all of a sudden give up. In most cases they should have been found in a bad state before during the MOT... which sometimes when they are hard to see get overlooked ( and that pipe on my car is well hidden you can see the top where it connects to the top metal coolant pipe that goes over the engine, but that is it. the rest is hidden you can't even see it from underneath as the engine and gearbox block it off. Also the firewall helps hide it too, not to mention the intake pipe since mine goes over the back of the engine right near the firewall.
I dropped most of the watered down coolant today and topped it up it with concentrated coolant... that'll work better than the watered down rubbish i had in there, it also means that i decided that i won't be touching that pipe unless it leaks again. I still ordered a proper replacement for it though.
Ceramic coated her today. Not full detail but protection before I properly buff her to get the swirls out after the service and Lanoguard this coming week.
I've had some pics of the old bus from it's new owner and its looking great. 
Makes my quest for its replacement even more important.
Makes my quest for its replacement even more important.
Just Autoglym Matt https://tinyurl.com/ms2phc3p, since their leather products were so good. I imagine not the best but the results are very good to my eyes.
He’s done a fair bit to it to give it his own personality.
The bbs look great.
Opted to go back to the s-line valance and fit those great miltek tips.
The bbs look great.
Opted to go back to the s-line valance and fit those great miltek tips.
Exactly, he's doing it justice and making it just that little bit more personal, just how I would have hoped.Wow they really suit it
Whilst you may miss it, it's great it's gone to an enthusiast, rather than just an A-B "it's just a car" driver.
I looked at the bbs ones but they are so expensive whilst being 2nd hand and in a bad state, I can buy a good 2.0 tfsi quattro for the asking prices... but they look good on it. But the 19inch s5 rotors are just made for the B7's. They just look so good on them.
Ps I like what he has done to it looks like it went to a good owner
Ps I like what he has done to it looks like it went to a good owner
So I'm pleased to announce that my fix is working better than I expected, the coolant flows just fine. No leaks at all, even after a brisk run on the motorway. U did have to top ot up ever so slightly to get the coolant t at max level this afternoon. But that was because I didn't check the level properly. Less than 150ml was needed to have the coolant sit at max in the expansion tank.
Pipe will be here this Friday, but I'll keep it as a spare to fit at a later date.
Other than that, I decided the satin black wheels need to be redone in high gloss black.
Simply because I noticed that high gloss black wheels just look better than satin black ones, the details show better.
Pipe will be here this Friday, but I'll keep it as a spare to fit at a later date.
Other than that, I decided the satin black wheels need to be redone in high gloss black.
Simply because I noticed that high gloss black wheels just look better than satin black ones, the details show better.
Ok, service and Lanoguard done... but I don't have any pictures... I was really under pressure; it was a favour and I don't think the lads were none too keen me being there - it was a very busy body shop. The access was stressful, very narrow with a sharp left entrance. But it only took 3 hours - I had to wait while they finished a couple of jobs and then moved cars. I had to reverse out, very gingerly.
Everything went easily though. My car does have the plastic under cover bracket. It had just not been properly secured - they are in good condition. Liqui Moly flush for 10-15 mins at idle; cap off, lift up, sump plug loosened, lift lowered a bit, then drain; new Bosch oil filter, new sump plug and Liqui Moly 5w30 goodness added. Oil service reset and then on to the Lanoguard. Underneath condition is excellent, only a little suface rust on the fuel tank strap and the mounting point seams, where the underseal has come away. A liberal coating first of the Lanoguard grease on all bolt, suspension or otherwise and the starp/seams. The the spray, which was very easy and convenient to apply with the included, spay attachment. All vulnerable areas, generously sprayed and the particularly the subframes; around the rear lower wishbone arms, and in any holes through the palstic underguards. Double check and then down, and waiting to get out.
Everything went easily though. My car does have the plastic under cover bracket. It had just not been properly secured - they are in good condition. Liqui Moly flush for 10-15 mins at idle; cap off, lift up, sump plug loosened, lift lowered a bit, then drain; new Bosch oil filter, new sump plug and Liqui Moly 5w30 goodness added. Oil service reset and then on to the Lanoguard. Underneath condition is excellent, only a little suface rust on the fuel tank strap and the mounting point seams, where the underseal has come away. A liberal coating first of the Lanoguard grease on all bolt, suspension or otherwise and the starp/seams. The the spray, which was very easy and convenient to apply with the included, spay attachment. All vulnerable areas, generously sprayed and the particularly the subframes; around the rear lower wishbone arms, and in any holes through the palstic underguards. Double check and then down, and waiting to get out.
Ok, service and Lanoguard done... but I don't have any pictures... I was really under pressure; it was a favour and I don't think the lads were none too keen me being there - it was a very busy body shop. The access was stressful, very narrow with a sharp left entrance. But it only took 3 hours - I had to wait while they finished a couple of jobs and then moved cars. I had to reverse out, very gingerly.
Everything went easily though. My car does have the plastic under cover bracket. It had just not been properly secured - they are in good condition. Liqui Moly flush for 10-15 mins at idle; cap off, lift up, sump plug loosened, lift lowered a bit, then drain; new Bosch oil filter, new sump plug and Liqui Moly 5w30 goodness added. Oil service reset and then on to the Lanoguard. Underneath condition is excellent, only a little suface rust on the fuel tank strap and the mounting point seams, where the underseal has come away. A liberal coating first of the Lanoguard grease on all bolt, suspension or otherwise and the starp/seams. The the spray, which was very easy and convenient to apply with the included, spay attachment. All vulnerable areas, generously sprayed and the particularly the subframes; around the rear lower wishbone arms, and in any holes through the palstic underguards. Double check and then down, and waiting to get out.
Glad the bracket was there. A simple piece that you really don't want to lose. Gutted no pics, I was going to ask you if you had any before / afters...but I get it....it's not always the most important thing, sometimes you just gotta crack on and get the job done.
Was this a trigger spray attachment from a 5 litre container? I used to see a lot of ads on Facebook and other places for Lanoguard, but not so many recently.
Great to hear it's mint underneath, that'll be the hot galvanise dip! Mine is lovely, but my rear subframe could do with a tiny bit of wire brush / treatment etc here and there.
Did you get behind your wheel arch liners?
Yes Matt, it's a bit of an anti-climax for you guys, not taking pictures, but I was under pressure to get it done and out, so I devoted time to not rushing the actual work, I'd left the phone inside the car too. What I will try and do next week is get it down to my mechanic's ramp - I know he'll let me whip it up for some after photos.
Yes it was the Lanoguard Regular kit, 5l, trigger spray atttachement and Moto Grease, about 80 quid. It's more than plenty to do it thrice over. From Lanoguard directly on eBay.
No I didn't have time for any major taking off of liners. I figure judging by the condition yours were in, they are really are well protected and long lasting. But it's something I can do without a ramp. So I figured I might do more, later like the inside of doors, rear hatch, as well etc.
My subframes were really good, just a bit of surface rust. The Moto Grease is a heavily concentrated form of the spray, which requires minmal prep, just any lose rust or pealing undercoat to be removed. The you can directly coat it on. It forms a very effective barrier against further rust and can't be washed of with mere jetsprays. It's takes around 10 days to cure properly. It's so quick to apply it all, that it's no real chore to make it a regular before winter application. I am confident that the product has protected the underneath against the worst ravages of road salt to come.
One of the owner's of the body shop had an amazing Golf MKII GTI in the corner. It had been customed preped for racing, with heavily modified engine, with a billet cranshaft, running at 650BHP!! It had an incredible custom aluminum gear stick and digital instrument display. They said it was so fast it was scary to drive, lol.
Yes it was the Lanoguard Regular kit, 5l, trigger spray atttachement and Moto Grease, about 80 quid. It's more than plenty to do it thrice over. From Lanoguard directly on eBay.
No I didn't have time for any major taking off of liners. I figure judging by the condition yours were in, they are really are well protected and long lasting. But it's something I can do without a ramp. So I figured I might do more, later like the inside of doors, rear hatch, as well etc.
My subframes were really good, just a bit of surface rust. The Moto Grease is a heavily concentrated form of the spray, which requires minmal prep, just any lose rust or pealing undercoat to be removed. The you can directly coat it on. It forms a very effective barrier against further rust and can't be washed of with mere jetsprays. It's takes around 10 days to cure properly. It's so quick to apply it all, that it's no real chore to make it a regular before winter application. I am confident that the product has protected the underneath against the worst ravages of road salt to come.
One of the owner's of the body shop had an amazing Golf MKII GTI in the corner. It had been customed preped for racing, with heavily modified engine, with a billet cranshaft, running at 650BHP!! It had an incredible custom aluminum gear stick and digital instrument display. They said it was so fast it was scary to drive, lol.
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Just updated the MMI 2G sw from 2530 to the newest version available , 5570 , so that should sort out a few bugs and update a few bits.
Also fitted the TDI CRTD4 TWIN Channel Diesel Tuning Box, not road tested it yet , thats tommorow, but set it at no4 to start off with and see how it performs.
Also fitted the TDI CRTD4 TWIN Channel Diesel Tuning Box, not road tested it yet , thats tommorow, but set it at no4 to start off with and see how it performs.
Fuel filter tonight, nothing fancy, just a Mann one for £27 from GSF. I poured the fuel from my old filter into the new filter...not all of it though.
I was tipping the contents into a glass jar to see the colour of the fuel. Then poured through a funnel into the new filter. However, as the old filter was almost empty, the fuel turned very black....engine oil I think, rather than dirt. I didn't put the dark fuel into the new filter of course. The old filter had been in there approx 30k miles.
Maybe my tandem pump seals or gasket is past it's best....I think. Car started and ran fine. Perhaps it was just dirt, but fuel is so clean now isn't it? Oil perhaps had sunk to the bottom of the old filter.
Also found this on my front subframe under the passenger side chassis rail. Wire brushed, 3 coats of BH Hydrate 80, and then painted with some black cylinder block paint I had in the garage. It really wasn't much, but after noticing it I couldn't just leave it.
I was tipping the contents into a glass jar to see the colour of the fuel. Then poured through a funnel into the new filter. However, as the old filter was almost empty, the fuel turned very black....engine oil I think, rather than dirt. I didn't put the dark fuel into the new filter of course. The old filter had been in there approx 30k miles.
Maybe my tandem pump seals or gasket is past it's best....I think. Car started and ran fine. Perhaps it was just dirt, but fuel is so clean now isn't it? Oil perhaps had sunk to the bottom of the old filter.
Also found this on my front subframe under the passenger side chassis rail. Wire brushed, 3 coats of BH Hydrate 80, and then painted with some black cylinder block paint I had in the garage. It really wasn't much, but after noticing it I couldn't just leave it.
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Scooped up the abt alloys from the refurber today
Tyre choice now
I’ve usually gone mid range ,Toyo ,hankook,uniroyal etc in the past
Fancy some Pirelli or Bridgestones this time question is do you really notice over the midrange if anyone has experience with both
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Scooped up the abt alloys from the refurber today
Tyre choice now
I’ve usually gone mid range ,Toyo ,hankook,uniroyal etc in the past
Fancy some Pirelli or Bridgestones this time question is do you really notice over the midrange if anyone has experience with both
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I noticed the Pirelli wear stupidly fast on a Quattro. The fronts were literally done in about 10k miles.
Dunlops replaced them and are wearing very evenly and have a decent lip to protect alloys.
I ran Toyo Proxes TR1 on my old Porsche and thought they were really good indeed. Smaller wheel sizes tho.
Currently on proxies at the min ,no complaints
That’s pirelli ruled out then
Tempted to stick with what I know now
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That’s pirelli ruled out then
Tempted to stick with what I know now
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Noticed uneven tyre wear particularly on the rear after running the 9j Bentley alloys for a while.
Alignment was done after fitment
Reckon the extra width must throw the suspension geometry out
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Alignment was done after fitment
Reckon the extra width must throw the suspension geometry out
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Yes I'd keep an eye on that, Matt. I change mine every other oil service, i.e around 12-15K. It could be soot too, you have to leave it in the jar over night to see if the black sticks to the side of the glass for this test. The other consideration if you have a DPF, is to keep an eye on the oil level. If it rises, it could be fuel diluting the oil, after regens. I intend to get around to preventative Tandem pump gasket renew, at some point. Never had any issues so far, but they are a common fail.
Re the subfame, that's pretty much what I found. I didn't hammerite it or underseal it this time, since I found that had cracked off in some places, from 2 years ago. I instead cleared any lose bits and directly applied there liberally, the Moto grease from Lanoguard, then sprayed the whole lot after. This gets under the rust and self heals, providing a waterproof barrier that prevents any further rust. That kind of thing is really minor and nothing to worry about, if kept an eye on.
I have Pirelli P Zeros all round, and I've noticed this too, noticeably more than the usual Michelin PS 4 tyres I've always fitted before, and will be going back to. Though they are a very good handling and quiet tyre. I intend to swap front to back soon on my FWD.
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This video is from a very interesting channel, by a current Audi and F1 engineer at Ingolstadt, he gives very fascinating and inside explanations, of how and why Audi arrived at the design decisions they did, and where they came from. Here he talks about the galvanising process:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3kJ368DpPM
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3kJ368DpPM
Rob, as I mentioned earlier, you might want to consider at some point, an add on Carplay/AA box, that keeps the MMI functions intact, such as this: https://tinyurl.com/47y9ek33 .Just updated the MMI 2G sw from 2530 to the newest version available , 5570 , so that should sort out a few bugs and update a few bits.
How did you update - CD?
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Purchased a Set of genuine audi update cd’s.
All went perfectly and some nice improvements and updates.
Looking into apple play kits to integrate into the mmi2g but they are a bit steep to be honest, may just make do with the current format as it works fine, not as fancy as CarPlay but works all the same.
All went perfectly and some nice improvements and updates.
Looking into apple play kits to integrate into the mmi2g but they are a bit steep to be honest, may just make do with the current format as it works fine, not as fancy as CarPlay but works all the same.
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I've heard nothing but good things about those cheap Chinese carplay/Andriod auto usb dongles from Temu, you just plug in the usb port and get full control on the mmi2 display and buttons without the need to touch your phone ever.
My neighbour uses one in his a5 convertible and he's quite happy with it as it only costed him 5 pounds, yet gives him full control of his phone and music.. he also prefers to use Google maps over the satnav. And it all works without a glitch.
My neighbour uses one in his a5 convertible and he's quite happy with it as it only costed him 5 pounds, yet gives him full control of his phone and music.. he also prefers to use Google maps over the satnav. And it all works without a glitch.
These don't work like that. These boxes interconnect between the Quadlock connectors and are fully Canbus compatible with steeringwheel controls. Carplay/AA is normally wireless without the need for usb; but these boxes provide their own USB inputs that you can mount anywhere, for other purposes. Unlike the B7's non MMI, that basically requires a new Head Unit, and has no retention of DIS etc, these are fully integrated, retaining all those features. You can go a bit further and get some kits with an overlay for the existing screen, that allow touch input, but it's not really necessary. I think compared to many other models and including the B7, it's very easy and not steep in comparison to install. It's impossible anyway to install a much more expensive branded solution, since there is no universal double din fitting.
Yes I'm going to tip out the contents of the new fuel filter in a week or two to see what the fuel is like. If it's fully clean, and only a tiny bit black for the last few dregs, then I think I'll be ok. I intend to change my fuel filter more often now, probably every 15 - 20k miles.
How much of a big job is the tandem pump gaskets / seals?
It's right on the back I think?
I'm always checking my oil because of DPF regens, seems ok there to be honest...it burns a very small amount between changes, and the oil never smells of fuel - not sure if I'd be able to smell fuel in the oil, I guess it depends how much.
Here's my repair after pic, just painted another coat of the cylinder block paint with a brush. Should keep the rust at bay for a while.
That looks perfect Matt. And last indefinitely kept like that. I forgot to mention, I did find rust on the centre box of the exhaust - it recently passed the MOT so isn't blowing, just the outer casing, but has deteriorated since 2 years ago - so I'm going to get that renewed. Not too expensive. I've toyed with fitting the 170 twins/valance, but that may be a faffle. Yesterday I applied the Moto grease to inside all four wing lips, which are without any rust, but just to keep them that way.
I've never done it, but it's a bit of a pig - yes right at the back to the right of the fuel filter. If your engine is burning a bit of oil between services, then all is good. It's when your oil level rises that would be the issue, then fuel would definitely be adding to the oil. I like an engine to burn a bit of oil, within spec, you know it's good then. Mine still burns less than Audi allows for, after all these miles, and I think that is pretty remarkable and a testament to these engines.