What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

Collected the 19” alloys for the Allroad, very pleased with them.
Good tyres but will be putting 4 new Bridgestone 245/40 19” on to keep things in spec.
I do prefer these new ones over the 18” rims.
IMG 1231
IMG 1233
IMG 1232
 
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Will posibly use the old rims on the pending B7 project , i like the style just not the colour .
 
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There is a b7 on FB marketplace seems to be what you would want... have a look it's got the s4 recaro in it already 2.0 tfsi etc.. from the pictures I thought you'd see it and go have a irl look
 
yeah, they aren't covering it properly... i did check the fitment, and nah, they just don't look right... if only they cut it straight, it would simply cover the old one
Ooh yer no fun Northpole are you ha ha. It's a valid point but they look nicer in the flesh and as I said I will fill and paint the underlying corners (should have done it before I warrant); they certainly look better than the corroded annodised existing ones. I looked and looked for the exact fitments these were the closest - if you find them let us know. Used proper S-line ones on eBay go for silly money and all are very poor condition. These particular standard S-lines have very short rears insets and no others going come close.
 
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Will posibly use the old rims on the pending B7 project , i like the style just not the colour .
The new ones look great Rob - are these you took off, 17"? The sidewalls looks quite fat for S-lines etc. Maybe better to sell those? Or keep them for Allroad Winter tyres?
 
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The rims that were on the car were the factory-fitted 18" option, not sure the 245/45 18" tyres are correct though, but they are quite chunky to say the least, partly why I think they make the rims look a bit small.

The new Audi 19" tires are 245/35 19" and do look much more aesthetically pleasing. :icon thumright:
 
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it would appear 245/45 18 is the factory spec for my allroad , but the 19" option uses 245/40 , which is what I just happened to be ordering, so that was handy, and my calculations were correct. :icon thumright:
 
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Ooh yer no fun Northpole are you ha ha. It's a valid point but they look nicer in the flesh and as I said I will fill and paint the underlying corners (should have done it before I warrant); they certainly look better than the corroded annodised existing ones. I looked and looked for the exact fitments these were the closest - if you find them let us know. Used proper S-line ones on eBay go for silly money and all are very poor condition. These particular standard S-lines have very short rears insets and no others going come close.
I agree there are no proper substitutes... more reason 4 one of us b7 folk to have them made... either that or have a sticker made that fits ontop of the old battered one that gets a polish... and now that I've said that i know a sticker company that has both the skills and the right tools to make them... I'll get in contact with them, see if they can make up a batch at a decent price... that literally will cover the complete thing after a polish.
 
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either that or have a sticker made that fits ontop of the old battered one that gets a polish... and now that I've said that i know a sticker company that has both the skills and the right tools to make them...
I'd much prefer these actual stainless steel metal ones than stickers, that would be too tacky - the main aim was for them to be both practical and better looking; but I'd be up for a group order, in the right shape, of metal ones with the S-line logo. Similarly I have a sturdy plastic bumper German made lip protecter, rather than the sticker material you can buy, even from Audi.

Yesterday I went through my paper work... my service book is full, has been for a while but I have the reciepts (which I've yet to collate), so I bought a new old stock one, and a self service stamp, now that I'm doing it myself. I'd actually lost the code to the old Symphony II as well, even though it's no longer fitted, so I obtained it for about 8 quid, and added it to the manual inside cover, for completeness. Since the records are incomplete, I thought I'd cross reference with the MOT history and any other records (very sparce, no invoices). I've yet to gather my own, for the 102,000 + miles in my ownership but it's around 12 or more services (somewhat less frequent than the 6K changes I had in my head); 2 cambelt/water pumps, and the KMB hex/balance shaft upgrade; new pulleys at the front all round, except for the alternator; new radiator; A/C compressor/heater matrix; EGR and ASV valves; new discs all round x 2/new calipers x1; lower front control arms; 2 new wings and a set of refurbished Ronals; new clutch/DMF/slave cylinder at 220K; not including countless cosmetic stuff already talked about. Apart from this no other major mechanical work has been done or failed on the engine especially.

The MOT history was horrifying. Not in what failed, it only ever failed on tyres and bulbs literally, with advisories on worn tyres, discs/pads and slight chipped windscreen; with the one fail exception of a broken rear spring at around 120k - that answers my question: they are around 150K now but not original; the only other significant advisory was the front worn lower control arms. What was shocking from the service book, was two periods where it seems to have gone over 30K between any service!!! Maybe there were others between those periods and the owner forgot to have the book stamped - I've done that myself but the ragged condition continually of the tyres (often down to the beads) and brakes seems to suggest not. The car had LL (20K) services by Audi up until around 80K. then another at around 96K; then only two more up until 172,415, when I bought it. There is no mention anywhere of a single cambelt change, neither by Audi at 80K nor after, before I did them.

It's completely remarkable this car has ever survived. It would certainly be scrap now too, if I hadn't bothered with the preventative of the KMB mod. I can only assume, and judging by the relatively unworn condition of the interior (never been smoked in for example - the ashtrays are like brand new and I only replaced the lighter cos it didn't work and to look complete) and most of the exterior; that it was carefully driven, at least, or it's a Friday car, or whatever. I've honestly never had any real issues mechanically; no MAF, tandem pump, injector, glow plug or turbo issues; no rough running/ idling, no renewed engine mounts etc. Almost always smooth, quiet and reliable; always has started on the button, winter or summer, idling smoothly and revving through the gears without flat spots. Oil pressure is spec too and only uses about 1/2 to 1 litre of oil in 6-8K; which all suggests the cams and bearings are still good; obviously not having a DPF helps but that is besides this example. Don't get me wrong, I've spent many times what it's worth keeping it well maintained, and recently I've had the money to go out and spend 6-10K on getting a far far better car; so I don't know why for the life of me, I've kept hold of it so long; except some cars are just lucky and just right and although you should never get attached to a car, you do.

But the real point of all this - and the service records don't matter much, since I'm going to give this car away one day, and it'd fetch very very little, with or without - is that it kind of gives the lie, in my case at least, to the 'calculated obselence' theory behind Audi's manufacture; at 275,000, with a lot of neglect in it's history; that should be well past it's sell-by/service life in anyone's book, I reckon.:thumbs up:
 
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You didn't grasp my idea I think... but yeah a sticker can easily be replaced it'll also prevent the metal from scratching up again. Sure etched stainless steel would also be my preferred option but to have a batch made of those will be very expensive, I already contacted a few companies about it.

And it's them taking the measurements and recreating the edging of the logo that somehow puts the price up.

I'll see if i can talk to one of those fabricators again to see if they can make up a small batch at a decent price but I doubt it as the prices of everything has gone up, especially their hourly rates.
 
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You didn't grasp my idea I think... but yeah a sticker can easily be replaced it'll also prevent the metal from scratching up again.

I'm not interested in coming in on stickers personally Northpole.

I tell you what though. It might be worth contacting one of these or even this Chinese supplier to give them the proper dimensions. It's nothing for them to knock up the right shape. I've just bought a cloth covered armrest lid, for 17 quid - mine is not damaged but has gone shiny or more grey, even after vigorous cleaning. I had the devil of a time finding a replacement of the right fitting - there are two types - one for those cars with phone prep in the armrest and one for those without - the hinges differ. I even bought an original brand new one some time back - the pictures were right but when it came, it was wrong. So I bought a Chinese one in leatherette, it fits perfectly and looks good, but still bugs me lol. So I contacted the Chinese and they confirmed a fabric one, which I found nowhere - so they do listen. I have to sell the wrong Audi one:blush:, and I'm keeping the original for the car back.:thumbs up:
 
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Apart from this no other major mechanical work has been done or failed on the engine especially.
I forgot new front wheel bearings and 1 A/C flap motor and the fortunet I've spent on Michelin and Pirelli tryres too, lol.
 
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@B7Tourer if you do contact them they get just qiote you a good price let me know if you did or not... I'll see if i can find them on alibaba.com as that is where i bought some oem stuff in decent quality (yeah for the a4l which is their a4 b7 basically our SE version) they might just have them with the black plastic part too.
 
@B7Tourer I might just pull thetriggger on a set of these as it kinda adds some oem+ style in the mix

 
@B7Tourer I might just pull thetriggger on a set of these as it kinda adds some oem+ style in the mix
They appear to be exacly the same size and shape as the ones I bought. They're not OEM style neither; that would be either plain as mine were, or with a red, S-line, S4 or RS4 logo. I can tell you that the original inserts are 52.5 cm and 21.5 cm long, front and rear respectively. These will still show the edges underneath with the curve in. And the led light thing...
 
Been out this afternoon to look at another B7 , which maybe ok but price needs to be adjusted.
Also fitted the replacement 19” alloys , looks so much better now, also a good excuse to take it out and try them.
IMG 1251
 
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They appear to be exacly the same size and shape as the ones I bought. They're not OEM style neither; that would be either plain as mine were, or with a red, S-line, S4 or RS4 logo. I can tell you that the original inserts are 52.5 cm and 21.5 cm long, front and rear respectively. These will still show the edges underneath with the curve in. And the led light thing...
Missed the shape on it i thought it might cover it, led lights thing... pull battery sorted ;)
 
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Missed the shape on it i thought it might cover it, led lights thing... pull battery sorted ;)
Easy done... as I say I looked and looked. I'll try and communicate something to the supplier of mine.

Since I've fit the new EGR and ASV valves, the exhaust tips have stayed cleaner longer than I ever remember. Obviously that may change over time as the EGR gums up, but it's simple to me now to whip it off and clean it from time to time. I'm always surprised at those diesel B7 cars with a DPF, that I see, with black tips, since that presumably should be one of the main side benefits of taking out particles. I think the EGR valve is the biggest culprit here in all cases. This is before I take her for a clean just to show how they've stayed.
IMG 0893
 
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I cleaned the outside of the tips recently, and they came up nice. Next I'm going to clean the insides and see how long before they go black....I hazard a guess about 200 yards! :welcoming: :welcoming:
 
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I’ve joined the sooty tip gang now, not sure how long mine will stay silver, ok at the moment though.
 
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Next I'm going to clean the insides and see how long before they go black....
Tht's something I've never thought of Matt:sunglasses: I might give it a go too. I can still see an odd embarrassing blast of smoke sometimes at night in the rearview, upon acceleration; but better than before I think; but then these non-DPF cars did that from new.

I’ve joined the sooty tip gang now, not sure how long mine will stay silver, ok at the moment though.
Ha ha, no disgrace Rob. Well worth having a clean of the EGR from time to time, I reckon. Does your 2.7 have a DPF? I think off the top of my head they possibly did. That early MMI, I believe you may have too, BTW, is mighty easy to add a discrete Carplay/AA box to, as well - a great update. It's not too expensive/complicated to fit a touchscreen overlay neither. The Allroad's looking swish.:thumbs up:
 
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Gave this old girl a wash today, and a quick detail with some QDX Graphene...not bad for just over 18 years old. Not been driven in 6 weeks, so charged the battery with the CTEK for 36 hours and blew off the cobwebs.

After the wash and dry, the QDX quick detailer took 25 minutes to do, such good stuff for a slick shiny hydrophobic spruce up.

The C pillar trim needs painting or wrapping, but other than that it's holding up pretty well. 113k miles, 2007 STi Spec D.
I've owned it since 2012.

D1


D2
 
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would love to Matt, but the combined annual VED for that and my Allroad would be bonkers
 
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7c27681a8ec9ec0f3c1f934948c7492d.jpg

Road trip to scoop some tatty ,but very cheap ,refurbish-able bbs abt ar19s
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Back to 5 sets now Rob
I sold the cast 13s I had on the garnet red avant last year and thought I’d started to beat this wheel collecting obsession


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These abt’s needed rescuing ,very rare now ,it would of been a shame for them to end up scrapped or forgotten


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lashed out on one of these today.

1759002611410


i was going to get it mapped but decided to go this route to see what the result were like.
TDI Tuning appear to have very good reviews espsecailly for the 2.7 V6 tdi engines.
 
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lashed out on one of these today.

View attachment 282498

i was going to get it mapped but decided to go this route to see what the result were like.
TDI Tuning appear to have very good reviews espsecailly for the 2.7 V6 tdi engines.

Pal of mine bought one for his x6 ,he’s been very impressed,35 years as a mechanic


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Disaster struck me this morning whilst going to the shop with the wife and my grandson... simply said the rubber coolant pipe on the metal coolant pipe that goes to the head on the firewall side, decided to pop a leak.

This happened whilst being on the otherside of town, around 10. I had to make a pitstop to cool the engine down first and then fill the expansion tank up with water. Than drive home but since it was footy day town was as busy as the motorway so had to make another pitstop at my son-in-law since he was the nearest and he lives in the middle of town, to top the car up again. Due to slow traffic, the tank kept going empty quick. Stayed there for a few hours, catching up and letting the car go completely cold. Once we left it was almost 13:00 got home in 15 minutes (no traffic and that's a 5 minute drive). The engine was getting warm when I got home.

But all the nearby scrappies closed, so I had to cut the bad part of the old rubber coolant pipe, use a straight metal pipe connector and join the new universal coolant pipe to the old one.

Job took ages since everything is in the way. I had to walk to 2 different carpart shops both in opposite direction of one another, adding a good 10 mile walk to my day. When I finally had all the bits and bobs, I started the job. We are looking at 14:30.

Anyway I managed to sort it out it's basically a temporary fix, but i can leave it as permanent one. I found a nice silicone universal pipe to do the job, the coupler comes from an old waterpump motor capable of holding 1k psi of hot water so I won't have to address the repair again for a long time.

The oem rubber pipe is available from autodoc and other online carparts sellers but as always it'll take days before I can get it unless I pay a stupid amount for 24 hour delivery...

Nah my patch job will do until I have to pull the head or if the bottom part of the old pipe starts giving me grief. It shouldn't as the problem bit on those pipes is always the top part, and my fix is what most mechanics or garages will do to get you on the road again.

I did put the part in my list of new parts to get, and I will eventually change it with an oem or pattern part.

In trying to work without taking most parts off it ruined my back, my right shoulder, my right arm, the walk has ruined my legs ( I speed walked since one of the shops that had the silicone coolant pipe was near to closing time) and since I didn't have lunch or dinner that introduced a splitting headache.

This was my day... I won't blame the car for it, it was an oem pipe the last coolant pipe i couldn't just buy and replace when I did the headgasket last year because it wasn't in stock and I needed the car asap. I just cut the worst bit of the old pipe but knew it wouldn't last... I just had no clue how long it would last. And it's been almost a year, so yeah, that is a long time for a 20 year old already decaying pipe that had sprung a leak before.
 
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Disaster struck me this morning whilst going to the shop with the wife and my grandson... simply said the rubber coolant pipe on the metal coolant pipe that goes to the head on the firewall side, decided to pop a leak.

This happened whilst being on the otherside of town, around 10. I had to make a pitstop to cool the engine down first and then fill the expansion tank up with water. Than drive home bit since it was footy day town was as busy as the motorway so had to make another pitstop at my son-in-law since he was the nearest and he lives in the middle of town, to top the car up again. Due to slow traffic, the tank kept going empty quick. Stayed there for a few hours, catching up and letting the car go completely cold. Once we left it was almost 13:00 got home in 15 minutes (no traffic and that's a 5 minute drive). The engine was getting warm when I got home.

But all the nearby scrappies closed, so I had to cut the bad part of the old rubber coolant pipe, use a straight metal pipe connector and join the new universal coolant pipe to the old one.

Job took ages since everything is in the way. I had to walk to 2 different carpart shops both in opposite direction of one another, adding a good 10 mile walk to my day. When I finally had all the bits and bobs, I started the job. We are looking at 14:30.

Anyway I managed to sort it out it's basically a temporary fix, but i can leave it as permanent one. I found a nice silicone universal pipe to do the job, the coupler comes from an old waterpump motor capable of holding 1k psi of hot water so I won't have to address the repair again for a long time.

The oem rubber pipe is available from autodoc and other online carparts sellers but as always it'll take days before I can get it unless I pay a stupid amount for 24 hour delivery...

Nah my patch job will do until I have to pull the head or if the bottom part of the old pipe starts giving me grief. It shouldn't as the problem bit on those pipes is always the top part, and my fix is what most mechanics or garages will do to get you on the road again.

I did put the part in my list of new parts to get, and I will eventually change it with an oem or pattern part.

In trying to work without taking most parts off it ruined my back, my right shoulder, my right arm, the walk has ruined my legs ( I speed walked since one of the shops that jad the silicone coolant pipe was near to closing time) amd since I didn't have lunch or dinner so that introduced a splitting headache.

This was my day... I won't blame the car for it, it was an oem pipe the last coolant pipe i couldn't just buy and replace when I did the headgasket last year because it wasn't in stock and I needed the car asap. I just cut the worst bit of the old pipe but knew it wouldn't last... I just had no clue how long it would last. And it's been almost a year, so yeah, that is a long time for a 20 year old already decaying pipe that had sprung a leak before.
Sorry to hear this. Mechanical breakdown is never good at the best of times, so I think you dealt with the situation really well.
hopefully you'll feel much improved in the morning and assess what needs to be done. :icon thumright:
 
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Disaster struck me this morning whilst going to the shop with the wife and my grandson... simply said the rubber coolant pipe on the metal coolant pipe that goes to the head on the firewall side, decided to pop a leak.

This happened whilst being on the otherside of town, around 10. I had to make a pitstop to cool the engine down first and then fill the expansion tank up with water. Than drive home bit since it was footy day town was as busy as the motorway so had to make another pitstop at my son-in-law since he was the nearest and he lives in the middle of town, to top the car up again. Due to slow traffic, the tank kept going empty quick. Stayed there for a few hours, catching up and letting the car go completely cold. Once we left it was almost 13:00 got home in 15 minutes (no traffic and that's a 5 minute drive). The engine was getting warm when I got home.

But all the nearby scrappies closed, so I had to cut the bad part of the old rubber coolant pipe, use a straight metal pipe connector and join the new universal coolant pipe to the old one.

Job took ages since everything is in the way. I had to walk to 2 different carpart shops both in opposite direction of one another, adding a good 10 mile walk to my day. When I finally had all the bits and bobs, I started the job. We are looking at 14:30.

Anyway I managed to sort it out it's basically a temporary fix, but i can leave it as permanent one. I found a nice silicone universal pipe to do the job, the coupler comes from an old waterpump motor capable of holding 1k psi of hot water so I won't have to address the repair again for a long time.

The oem rubber pipe is available from autodoc and other online carparts sellers but as always it'll take days before I can get it unless I pay a stupid amount for 24 hour delivery...

Nah my patch job will do until I have to pull the head or if the bottom part of the old pipe starts giving me grief. It shouldn't as the problem bit on those pipes is always the top part, and my fix is what most mechanics or garages will do to get you on the road again.

I did put the part in my list of new parts to get, and I will eventually change it with an oem or pattern part.

In trying to work without taking most parts off it ruined my back, my right shoulder, my right arm, the walk has ruined my legs ( I speed walked since one of the shops that jad the silicone coolant pipe was near to closing time) amd since I didn't have lunch or dinner so that introduced a splitting headache.

This was my day... I won't blame the car for it, it was an oem pipe the last coolant pipe i couldn't just buy and replace when I did the headgasket last year because it wasn't in stock and I needed the car asap. I just cut the worst bit of the old pipe but knew it wouldn't last... I just had no clue how long it would last. And it's been almost a year, so yeah, that is a long time for a 20 year old already decaying pipe that had sprung a leak before.

Not good ,At least you got some steps in and sorted it roadside
Reminds me ,while picking the wheels up
The mrs has a tendency to adjust her window non stop so it’s just so ,always annoys me
Today while she was fiddling I heard a bang from inside the door ,the window wouldn’t go down but thankfully went up
I can hear the motor working but the window doesn’t operate
What do we think ? Snapped cable ?


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Sorry to hear this. Mechanical breakdown is never good at the best of times, so I think you dealt with the situation really well.
hopefully you'll feel much improved in the morning and assess what needs to be done. :icon thumright:
It's sorted lol all it needs now is fresh coolant... I refuse to top up with coolant when the cooling system has a leak...

I'll buy some fresh coolant next week and replace it and order that oem coolant pipe to replace my fix at a later date, when I'm feeling better.
 
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You'll be needing a new window regulator by the sound of that, but until you have the door card off and access you wont be 100% but it does sound like the problem.
 
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