What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

[Charlie Farley]

Line up the slot in the collar with the flat section on the adjuster and then twist the colar just enough to force the tangs out , collar can now pushed up or down to correct height.
Same with the top screw section

 

[Charlie Farley]

Hope that helps chaps.
Just keep in mind that you can't push the top section into the collar when they are both in the unlock position, therefore the top section has to be in its final adjusted position and locked before the collar can be slid up and then locked , once you try it all will become clearer.
The collar effecticly prevents the top section from being unlocked hence why the collar needs to be moved first and locked last.

 

[B7Tourer]

Forgetting the round towbar box and the clamp screw, without those fitted my boot carpet sits about 4mm proud, and the panel underneath the boot carpet squeaks on the tyre. Then with the towbar box screwed down, the boot carpet sits higher still.

Looking at the two pictures, of your car (stunning presentation/condition in that boot fella), Matt and the Avant in the link, it appears the estate plastic liner might be slightly higher where the carpeted collapsible floor sits and also the inner floor cover - you see this above the toolkits. Currently, my Ronal with Michelin PS4, is fine, with the old cover resting on it and the clamp in lose. I've just had a look at the catalogue - there is no mention anywhere of this full size option, but some cars definitely came with it from new, they seem to be mostly 17" though; the catalogue specifically say 18" Ronals came with a space saver.

Other than that, just cobwebs, a few other areas of dirt, but all good now.
Dry brushed the liner and will keep it blasted during each clean, again no missing body bungs

Amazing condition, especially compared to many contemporary Mercs and BMWs, but your car has been and continues to be very well cared for, excellent example. You can a very slight surface rust, on the top strut plate, on one of the spot welds - nothing at all, but perhaps and indication of how and where and it might start, in a few years.

 

[Charlie Farley]

And all apart again , simple as that.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Looking at the two pictures, of your car (stunning presentation/condition in that boot fella), Matt and the Avant in the link, it appears the estate plastic liner might be slightly higher where the carpeted collapsible floor sits and also the inner floor cover - you see this above the toolkits. Currently, my Ronal with Michelin PS4, is fine, with the old cover resting on it and the clamp in lose. I've just had a look at the catalogue - there is no mention anywhere of this full size option, but some cars definitely came with it from new, they seem to be mostly 17" though; the catalogue specifically say 18" Ronals came with a space saver.


Amazing condition, especially compared to many contemporary Mercs and BMWs, but your car has been and continues to be very well cared for, excellent example. You can a very slight surface rust, on the top strut plate, on one of the spot welds - nothing at all, but perhaps and indication of how and where and it might start, in a few years.

My old bus was supplied ex factory with a full size 18” Ronal DTM alloy with 235/40 18 tyre.

 

[B7Tourer]

Hope that helps chaps.

Thanks Rob, I did try that but mine wouldn't budge, nor would it for my strong neighbour; obviously I wasn't doing it right. I'll have another go in a short while

 

[Charlie Farley]

So to clarify on the adjuster.
Fit and slide the locking collar down a said way , fit the top section and slide it down to the desired height and twist it to set it in place, then slide the colar up as far as it will go and twist to lock it.
That leaves it all locked in place .

 

[Charlie Farley]

Thanks Rob, I did try that but mine wouldn't budge, nor would it for my strong neighbour; obviously I wasn't doing it right. I'll have another go in a short while

It will move , just spray some wd40 or similar to ease it moving.
The tangs are pretty strong so may just pry them out a bit first with a flat head screwdriver, or whatever works really but they will twist.

 

[B7Tourer]

My old bus was supplied ex factory with a full size 18” Ronal DTM alloy with 235/40 18 tyre.

This was just from the standard A4 and S-line brochure; no mention accessories in the S4 one I have. The link I gave includes some DTMs with factory full size and clearly it seemed available for all models. The floor pressing would be identical too between the saloon and estate versions; and even 19" will fit in that well; so it's just a question of floor fittings, perhaps

 

[Charlie Farley]

This was just from the standard A4 and S-line brochure; no mention accessories in the S4 one I have. The link I gave includes some DTMs with factory full size and clearly it seemed available for all models. The floor pressing would be identical too between the saloon and estate versions; and even 19" will fit in that well; so it's just a question of floor fittings, perhaps

To be honest , everything is an option with Audi so nothing surprises at all.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Decided to take out my OSR liner to see what it was like. I thought being offside it would be even tidier under there than the nearside....but it wasn't.

Zero corrosion, apart from a couple of 12mm bolts that hold the hard brake pipe bracket to the body, and the liner to the fuel tank vent system. I wire brushed the two bolts, treated them with BH Hydrate 80 then finally with Dynax UC. One spot weld had just slight rust though.

Again not too shabby for a 19 year old car.
You can see the build up of stuff on the seam behind the strut, was almost an inch thick of crud / loose grit.

I basically did the same as yesterday on the nearside, and brushed out all the dry crud, vacuum / blow only this time I added a nice thick layer of BH Dynax UC on the seam behind the strut. It won't stop stuff sitting on there, but at least an extra layer of protection. The sill end cover was full like the other side, so again, cleaned all that out and behind it Dynax'd it generously.

Other than that, just cobwebs, a few other areas of dirt, but all good now.
Dry brushed the liner and will keep it blasted during each clean, again no missing body bungs

View attachment 282073

Why would this bolt be painted red? :

View attachment 282074

View attachment 282075

View attachment 282076


Slight rust here on one of the spot welds, so Dynax'd it :

View attachment 282077

I notice your rear brake line block is holding up well , they are very prone to corrosion given the location and tucked behind the wheel arch cover.
always worth keeping it clean and free and protected from as much corrosion as possible; otherwise it becomes a problem.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Thanks Rob, I did try that but mine wouldn't budge, nor would it for my strong neighbour; obviously I wasn't doing it right. I'll have another go in a short while

You have to twist and move the collar clear of the top fitting first otherwise the top fitting cant be moved, well the whole lot will be solid.
Once you release the collar the top can be twised and adjusted.

 

[Matt275]

Looking at the two pictures, of your car (stunning presentation/condition in that boot fella), Matt and the Avant in the link, it appears the estate plastic liner might be slightly higher where the carpeted collapsible floor sits and also the inner floor cover - you see this above the toolkits. Currently, my Ronal with Michelin PS4, is fine, with the old cover resting on it and the clamp in lose. I've just had a look at the catalogue - there is no mention anywhere of this full size option, but some cars definitely came with it from new, they seem to be mostly 17" though; the catalogue specifically say 18" Ronals came with a space saver.


Amazing condition, especially compared to many contemporary Mercs and BMWs, but your car has been and continues to be very well cared for, excellent example. You can a very slight surface rust, on the top strut plate, on one of the spot welds - nothing at all, but perhaps and indication of how and where and it might start, in a few years.

Ah yes I see now from the photo on the other thread that the plastic liner will give more clearance for the boot carpet, maybe 10mm, I saw the liner but didn't notice the extra clearance! I couldn't work out what was making the difference, but now I see it and it fully explains everything

 

[Matt275]

I notice your rear brake line block is holding up well , they are very prone to corrosion given the location and tucked behind the wheel arch cover.
always worth keeping it clean and free and protected from as much corrosion as possible; otherwise it becomes a problem.

Yep, loosened the rusty bolt and treated it, then whilst loose the bracket got Dynax'd behind it / all over then nipped it back up. Same yesterday on the other side. Trying to leave as little as I can to chance.

 

[B7Tourer]

You have to twist and move the collar clear of the top fitting first otherwise the top fitting cant be moved, well the whole lot will be solid.
Once you release the collar the top can be twised and adjusted.

I'll have 3 of 'em soon: My old one; the brand new one in the link I sent Northpole and 1 in the option kit I bought as a job lot But I sure do appreciate you taking the time; and you're the very first person on the internet, far as I can see, ever to provide a detailed explanation. I will have a go at mastering it, when I get chance; that's also for sure lol

 

[Charlie Farley]

You are welcome.

 

[northpole]

I'll give it a go, i thought the top and bottom where 1 part so stopped pulling at it... I'll give it a go tomorrow.

 

[ttelracs]

Finally got round to replacing the front drop links and whilst there I replaced the anti roll bar bushes too.

All fairly straightforward and I didn't bother taking any pictures as it really is a case of jacking up the front totally of the ground so no weight on the front wheels, undo the two 16mm bolts that hold the drop links to the anti roll bar and lower suspension on either side.
Remove the two 13mm nuts holding the anti roll bar to the front subframe and remove.

Refitting is the opposite.

I'd really like an RS4 rear anti roll bar, but may settle for poly bushes if need be to stiffen up the rear OR I may drill the bar to move the pick up point holes close to the bar itself, ghetto style. This will achieve a similar effect, although my maths isn't good enough to work out how the distance in mm equates to the proportionate increase in roll bar stiffness.

 

[B7Tourer]

Finally got round to replacing the front drop links and whilst there I replaced the anti roll bar bushes too.

Did they make a noise, of any kind? I just had my lower rear control arms replaced to pass the MOT - the ones the shocks and ARB drop links attach to, and it's suddenly developed a slight creak on the FNS; which wasn't there before; the drop links should have been done at the same time, since, as you say it's pretty straightforward, and usually necessary. Even though I could do this myself, I'm taking it in Friday (another place), in case there is something else that developed/ was disturbed since this work. Or the mechanic didn't properly torque the control arms under load/ or they were duff replacements. The noise is not a knock of any kind, just a few little annoying groans, rubber sounding, setting off and in a straight line, and cannot be reproduced by pressing on the wings.

 

[ttelracs]

Nope, no noise but I did notice that there was too much play in the rubber bush in the lower control arms, so another job to be done at some point.

When I've replaced control arms on my previous A3 and various BMWs the key is to tighten and torque them up with the car on the ground, or on the ramp. Not a four poster or similar where there is no weight on the arms as it severely shortens the life of the rubber bush once they're torqued up and the car is back on the ground as there is too much movement for them.

I made this mistake once as I too heard a slight creaking and jacked it up again, loosened the nuts, then used my trolley jack under the wheel to compress the shock and thus imitate the wheel on the ground. I then tightened and torqued up the nut and had no more creaks. I also used an axle stand under the front subframe to be safe. I hope that helps, but it could also be your top mounts. Use WD40 on both the top mount and bush in the lower control arm one at a time to isolate it then go from there.

 

[B7Tourer]

When I've replaced control arms on my previous A3 and various BMWs the key is to tighten and torque them up with the car on the ground, or on the ramp. Not a four poster or similar where there is no weight on the arms as it severely shortens the life of the rubber bush once they're torqued up and the car is back on the ground as there is too much movement for them.

I made this mistake once as I too heard a slight creaking and jacked it up again, loosened the nuts, then used my trolley jack under the wheel to compress the shock and thus imitate the wheel on the ground. I then tightened and torqued up the nut and had no more creaks. I also used an axle stand under the front subframe to be safe. I hope that helps, but it could also be your top mounts. Use WD40 on both the top mount and bush in the lower control arm one at a time to isolate it then go from there.

Thanks! I'm familiar with the procedure, and the mechanic (has a ramp lift) says he did it correctly, but I'm not sure, since he over tightened the EGR torx bolts, that I had to renew again myself. Since it does not make a noise if you bounce the wing, and turning the wheel makes no difference; and it was not there before the new control arms, I have a suspicion it may be the top rubber mounting bush on the strut - in disconnecting the struts to install the arms, it may have been enough to put paid to it on the near side, they are original after all. I will have the drop links replaced anyway and if necessary the ARB bushes. Anyway hopefully find out Friday - I don't have my own trolly jack/axle stands.

 

[ttelracs]

Thanks! I'm familiar with the procedure, and the mechanic (has a ramp lift) says he did it correctly, but I'm not sure, since he over tightened the EGR torx bolts, that I had to renew again myself. Since it does not make a noise if you bounce the wing, and turning the wheel makes no difference; and it was not there before the new control arms, I have a suspicion it may be the top rubber mounting bush on the strut - in disconnecting the struts to install the arms, it may have been enough to put paid to it on the near side, they are original after all. I will have the drop links replaced anyway and if necessary the ARB bushes. Anyway hopefully find out Friday - I don't have my own trolly jack/axle stands.

A cheap ghetto check with the top mounts is to spray WD40 on them and give it an hour or so to soak in.
That could reduce the noise enough for you to know for sure it's them as if you're going to replace the top mounts, you may as well look at replacing your shocks too, depending on when they were last done. Never a straightforward job on these due to the infamous bolt going through the upper arms.

 

[Matt275]

ah yes....the dreaded pinch bolt

 

[Charlie Farley]

yep, that bolt will go down in automotive history, been there and know all about it....

 

[northpole]

Oww the horror of that freakin' pinchbolt..... i'd say have fun, but there is nothing funny about a stuck one.

 

[B7Tourer]

A cheap ghetto check with the top mounts is to spray WD40 on them and give it an hour or so to soak in.

Great tip! Yes that pinch bolt; I'm dreading the day; but... and I might be wrong here, I don't see how you need to separate that bolt to move the struts/shocks, to replace the top rubber mount; only if you're changing the control arms at the same time? Which I will be doing at some point, in the near future; so the pain will only be deferred, temporarily.

Well, this here, full size option conversion is more involved than I thought: Turns out there's a completely different floor for it: 8E9864106C as opposed to B; the wheel lower edge and side shelf's missing on it. I think if you remove the floor, there should be 2 welded in studs, either side, that the toolkits fit on, using hexagon collar nuts - a bracket on the left, so the toolkit can be removed, lifting it's clamp; and the scissor jack case fixed, in place, on the right. The bracket for the toolkit won't fit, I'm sure, without this floor/studs - the B floor impedes the lip, even for it to sit there. At least I hope these studs are there; surely Audi can't have had different pressings for the boot floor, can they? Lol.

Furthermore; the cases sit on foam inserts, and the studs go through both - I can get the floor, no issue; I have the lid; but those inserts seem to be like hen's teeth; maybe, if I remove the floor; if I buy the other floor, that is, they are already there? I suspect not, and it's getting to be a faffle, for little gain now - I won't bother with all that jazz, if the cases can fit OK, without changing the floor; but I suspect they are going to sit too high - I truly hope not. I've been too busy/lazy with work to remove the tools and junk I have in there at the moment, to find out; but I'm picking up the lady from the airport today, so I've got clear it, this morning, pronto, .

Anyway, the parts arrived, all good, except the toolkits, were full of mud, and the hinge separated on the jack box; the tools were toast too, but I'm not bothered about them, have good ones. I managed to clean them up fine and fix the hinge, fortunately - why on earth do some people not put just a little effort into, presentation and clear photographs, on eBay - they'd make far more money - I normally run if the photos are poor, but this had just about everything, for a good price:

 

[PDLH]

the hinge separated on the jack box;

That is a standard Audi feature from the factory!

 

[B7Tourer]

That is a standard Audi feature from the factory!

Yeah lol... but I thought the plastic hinge pins were broken; they looked a bit bent, and the lid was slightly warped so initially it was difficult to get them to pop back - I took the top off when I cleaned, and rinsed everything with hot water, to get them all back in, it should just hinge in place without needing to be taken off.

 

[northpole]

Yeah you can actually replace the shocks without removing the pinchbolt... but if you need to replace the top arms... there is no escaping it.

 

[northpole]

I just washed the car and hoovered the inside including the boot as I normally just leave that the way it is but hey I had time so went about it methodically removing every little part in the back until I got it all cleaned.

Just need to buy a stiff thin enough brush to get the dirt away next to the seat rails.

 

[Matt275]

I just washed the car and hoovered the inside including the boot as I normally just leave that the way it is but hey I had time so went about it methodically removing every little part in the back until I got it all cleaned.

Just need to buy a stiff thin enough brush to get the dirt away next to the seat rails.

I was gifted a second hand cheapie handheld vacuum, probably from Temu. It's pretty powerful to be fair and one attachment fits like a glove down the seat rail gap

 

[northpole]

I loath those things they keep breaking. I had 3 of them, but when they worked, they did work well with that thin attachment. Nut me being me, I chucked them in the bin in a rage when the 3rd one broke whilst doing nothing special other than using it to clean the car...

Wished I kept those attachments, as I could make them fit my hoover, might get another one as they aren't that expensive.

 

[Matt275]

I loath those things they keep breaking. I had 3 of them, but when they worked, they did work well with that thin attachment. Nut me being me, I chucked them in the bin in a rage when the 3rd one broke whilst doing nothing special other than using it to clean the car...

Wished I kept those attachments, as I could make them fit my hoover, might get another one as they aren't that expensive.

Before I got the cheapie vacuum I was using a normal skinniest hoover attachment but it would no way go down that gap.
I used to tape 3 plastic drinking straws together tight next to each other, and then tape those into the attachment blocking the gap with gaffer tape. It was very primitive....but it worked pretty well

 

[northpole]

Before I got the cheapie vacuum I was using a normal skinniest hoover attachment but it would no way go down that gap.
I used to tape 3 plastic drinking straws together tight next to each other, and then tape those into the attachment blocking the gap with gaffer tape. It was very primitive....but it worked pretty well

A stiff thin brush is easier to get, and works... i have one but i misplaced it.

 

[Matt275]

I sprayed the rear bushes with silicone yesterday. Both ends of the lower control arms, the ARB bushes and upper drop link bushes. I thought that after 19 years they maybe aren't so supple....and maybe some silicone will keep them going a bit. The bushes seemed to soak it in pretty well...just hopefully they won't start rotting now!

I realise now that camber is in fact adjustable on the rear hubs.
Just above the brake calipers there's thick cammed offset washers. On both sides on mine, the washers aren't touching the cut-out section where the washer would press on the hub and push the hub outwards. Both sides are about 2mm away from even touching, so from that I assume I have no camber set at the moment. That said, when it's parked I can see that both rear wheels are slightly negative and sit further in at the top.

 

[Charlie Farley]

I sprayed the rear bushes with silicone yesterday. Both ends of the lower control arms, the ARB bushes and upper drop link bushes. I thought that after 19 years they maybe aren't so supple....and maybe some silicone will keep them going a bit. The bushes seemed to soak it in pretty well...just hopefully they won't start rotting now!

I realise now that camber is in fact adjustable on the rear hubs.
Just above the brake calipers there's thick cammed offset washers. On both sides on mine, the washers aren't touching the cut-out section where the washer would press on the hub and push the hub outwards. Both sides are about 2mm away from even touching, so from that I assume I have no camber set at the moment. That said, when it's parked I can see that both rear wheels are slightly negative and sit further in at the top.

They are concentric adjusters Matt,

 

[Matt275]

I'm not going to adjust anything, but how come the adjusters washers aren't touching anything and I still have camber?

Am I right in thinking these would be adjusted to reduce negative camber if needed?
All very new to me this geo stuff!

 

[Charlie Farley]

The markings are only a basic starting ref point as correct adjustments may be slightly different on either side hence why the adjusters are moved based on laser alignment not basic marks on the mounts themselves.
They are a very simple but effective means of adjustment, as you turn the adjuster the concentric cam moves the camber either in or out depending on which way the adjuster is turned.

 

[Charlie Farley]

They are also very prone to being siezed up and corroded just due to nature of the fitting and location.
I always get a new set before getting the rear adjustment done , most tyre centres tend to avoid touching them unless you have replacement ones or have done the replacement before hand.

 

[Charlie Farley]

My rear camber is spot on but if you looked at the adjuster on the nearside it’s Position is different from the offside, and by a fair bit , well on the scale of things that is.