In the meantime, I'm going to just enjoy driving it.
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
And that's why you gave it all those new parts for, to enjoy it to the max.In the meantime, I'm going to just enjoy driving it.
Really sorry to hear this Rob! I hope it's not frustration due to the pesky vibration - I'm sure you'll sort it.
I get that though. It's been frustrating here too. First time ever coolant warning - never used any before; and on the way to the airport to fly out too! Turns out I think to be the header tank cracking - common fault; but blinkin' eBay sent me the wrong part - described as B7 but is for a B6, damn it! Ordered the right one elsewhere; meant to be same day delivery; is not!!
The grille too, I bought a while back - bargain but wrong type - it's for a standard SE; fool me for not checking, duh. I've even bought the correct period decal, for it. It's brand new; never been on a car; I'll put it back on eBay, together with the decal, for a handsome profit; but if any member here is interested, pm me and I'll do it for more or less cost:
I've found a new S-line one; and I've decided to buy brand new headlights - they make the maximum difference, for really a relatively - 200 quid - small amount.
Where did you buy new headlights?Really sorry to hear this Rob! I hope it's not frustration due to the pesky vibration - I'm sure you'll sort it.
I get that though. It's been frustrating here too. First time ever coolant warning - never used any before; and on the way to the airport to fly out too! Turns out I think to be the header tank cracking - common fault; but blinkin' eBay sent me the wrong part - described as B7 but is for a B6, damn it! Ordered the right one elsewhere; meant to be same day delivery; is not!!
The grille too, I bought a while back - bargain but wrong type - it's for a standard SE; fool me for not checking, duh. I've even bought the correct period decal, for it. It's brand new; never been on a car; I'll put it back on eBay, together with the decal, for a handsome profit; but if any member here is interested, pm me and I'll do it for more or less cost:View attachment 281370
I've found a new S-line one; and I've decided to buy brand new headlights - they make the maximum difference, for really a relatively - 200 quid - small amount.
eBay; they're aftermarkets, just over 200 quid the pair - standard Halogen H7 with level motors; OEM orange indicators, because I prefer that. I haven't actually bought them yet; the old gal sprang a leak - turns out to be the rad; I thought it was the header tank, at first; for which I bought a replacement. I've got parts and garage with the AA, which pays for most non-service things up to £500, so I called them out, mainly to confirm diagnosis and to be able to claim. I can't get in to the approved garage until Thursday next. I was going to get them to fit the new grille, new headlights, correct the badly fitted bumper, at the same time, since they have to take off the front in any case, but the vendor of the grille is away until the 5th of June, so my plan to kill two birds with one stone failed. Oh well! I'll do all myself, later, and stop being lazy.
Anyway, I'm not sure about the new lights; if you or anyone advises to steer clear of these aftermarkets types; I'll look elsewhere.
They'll be fine it doesn't matter what brand it is they are all made to be a direct replacement, all based on the same blueprint.
I seem to have lost interest to be honest, no specific reason, I just can't seem to get into the groove with it at the moment.
Yes, the continuing vibration source is annoying me and may have a degree of relevance, but not to the point of making me part ways with it, maybe its just time for a change now , I really cant say for sure.
It would be a shame to break it up, but it's never going to be worth what I've spent on it unless I had a good offer on it, which is not really likely to happen.
Logically, I should just keep it, maybe in a few months' time I'll be in a different state of mind and keep it anyway.
If I could get £6k for it as it is today then i'd let it go.
I've been looking at the new , wait for it, Dacia Bigster's
is wrong with me......
I still have this ruddy itch for an RS4 but I just can't justify one being sat here and not getting the use, that's just not right.
Might have to kick myself up the backside and get back in the B7 groove, I need to do something.
Some people who can afford it have 2 cars, one daily and special car for weekends, RS4 for that weekend.
Just spent a hour adressing the brake squeel, removed the front Brembo pads, cleaned the discs etc, new decent amount of copper grease on the back plates. Went out for a test drive and first time I used the brakes, it's still at it, no improvement whatsoever, so it can only be the Brembo pad material.
I cant be putting up with the continual squeel so its a new set of pads on Monday , and not brembo.
It's the first time I've opted to go with Brembo pads, and it's the first time in 11 years with the old bus that the problem has arisen, I think that says it all.
Going back to EBC now, always been fine with them.
A conversation with GSF parts is on the cards for Monday, they are going back.
I cant be putting up with the continual squeel so its a new set of pads on Monday , and not brembo.
It's the first time I've opted to go with Brembo pads, and it's the first time in 11 years with the old bus that the problem has arisen, I think that says it all.
Going back to EBC now, always been fine with them.
A conversation with GSF parts is on the cards for Monday, they are going back.
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And to top it off, now i'm getting the dreaded rear brake light bulb failure warning on the dash, and it is not blown.....arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
That's 2 things today, just waiting for the 3rd.
That's 2 things today, just waiting for the 3rd.
Right then , the 3rd thing may have just occurred.
I have been under the old bus in search of the elusive source of engine vibration when under acceleration etc and may have found it.
I noticed a clunking sound when moving backward or forwards from stationary or letting the clutch go quickly.
I can feel a lot of free play in the propshaft and I suspect its the centre bearing UJ joint to blame, it would account for the clunking sounds and vibrations under load condition.
It maynot be that but I'm struggling with any other possible source now.
I have been under the old bus in search of the elusive source of engine vibration when under acceleration etc and may have found it.
I noticed a clunking sound when moving backward or forwards from stationary or letting the clutch go quickly.
I can feel a lot of free play in the propshaft and I suspect its the centre bearing UJ joint to blame, it would account for the clunking sounds and vibrations under load condition.
It maynot be that but I'm struggling with any other possible source now.
That would make sense you did remove the engine and when the uj bearing is old it can all of a sudden have imbalance creating banging noises when they get worse.
That said it never occurred to me since audi isn't known for this. Alfa's are in particular the old 33 and 75 rear wheel and quadrofoglio's. If you pull the engine on those it is best practice to replace them on the intermediate drive shaft.
That said it never occurred to me since audi isn't known for this. Alfa's are in particular the old 33 and 75 rear wheel and quadrofoglio's. If you pull the engine on those it is best practice to replace them on the intermediate drive shaft.
Yes, I was thinking about it this evening and as much as its been an ongoing issue for some time, it's only become the bigger issue since I pulled the engine and its deffo under acceration/load conditions.
Also the clonking is more noticeable now.
I read a fair few threads on different forums with owners that have had similar issues at the same milage, with the centre bearing failing an the UJ going to, they seem to take a bit of a hammering.
Not much stock of them either.
Also the clonking is more noticeable now.
I read a fair few threads on different forums with owners that have had similar issues at the same milage, with the centre bearing failing an the UJ going to, they seem to take a bit of a hammering.
Not much stock of them either.
If this is the source of the problem then the outlay will be worth it and my interest in the old bus will be rekindled.
Wash and wax today. Applied Collinite 845 with the Rupes on speed 1 and softest foam pad out there.
Stunning results.....but...within an hour, tree sap.
The approx 120ft tall Wellingtonia on the drive was raining fine sap and was wind assisted. There was no escape, powerless, defeated....screwed!
Gigantic tree, beautiful etc...but sometimes I wish it was a bonsai lol
Stunning results.....but...within an hour, tree sap.
The approx 120ft tall Wellingtonia on the drive was raining fine sap and was wind assisted. There was no escape, powerless, defeated....screwed!
Gigantic tree, beautiful etc...but sometimes I wish it was a bonsai lol
Wellingtonia, or more commonly known as the Giant Redwood, they are superb specimen tree.
Most have TPO's on them .
Had a fair bit of experience over years with them, love them or hate them , they are a wonder of nature.
They do , like most of the Cupressaceae family deposit sap and fine cone dust so its never going to get any better Matt, just keep on cleaning chap.
Most have TPO's on them .
Had a fair bit of experience over years with them, love them or hate them , they are a wonder of nature.
They do , like most of the Cupressaceae family deposit sap and fine cone dust so its never going to get any better Matt, just keep on cleaning chap.
It's beautiful and is a huge feature here. I suspect it's at least 150 years old...the base of the trunk is much wider than my B5.5
Yep...it keeps the excuse to clean valid! hahahaha
Yep...it keeps the excuse to clean valid! hahahaha
Yep , it will be a specimen tree Matt, just look out for dead branches, as with age they can start shedding dead wood etc on windy days etc.
Oh yes...had many a close call with that! I park as far away from it as possible....green cones is the other one...much heavier than the dead ones.
The squirrels go mad up there and chew them off sometimes...you don't want a roof dent from ones of those bad boys...they hit the ground with a thump!
When you say specimen tree, do you mean it was most likely randomly planted there?
The squirrels go mad up there and chew them off sometimes...you don't want a roof dent from ones of those bad boys...they hit the ground with a thump!
When you say specimen tree, do you mean it was most likely randomly planted there?
Specimen trees tend to be single mature examples or in a specific group planted that way, they don't just take seed in a front garden.....lol
If your house is lets say a 1920's era house, then it may have been planted as prior to that late 1800's as a sapling when the surrounding area was less builtup and has just grown on from that .
I know from my tree work in the past that there is a large amount of them in the Aldershot area and surrounding areas for more obvious reasons...
But they can be found spread far and wide.
If your house is lets say a 1920's era house, then it may have been planted as prior to that late 1800's as a sapling when the surrounding area was less builtup and has just grown on from that .
I know from my tree work in the past that there is a large amount of them in the Aldershot area and surrounding areas for more obvious reasons...
But they can be found spread far and wide.
A bit more research has indicated that I require the "D" or "T" rev prop .
based on the PR code being G0L ( 6speed manual 4wd) and G0Q ( 5 speed manual 4wd)
Looks like will be going with "T" just to be safe.
based on the PR code being G0L ( 6speed manual 4wd) and G0Q ( 5 speed manual 4wd)
Looks like will be going with "T" just to be safe.
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New N75 going on tomorrow.
Ran VCDS yesterday and no probs at all but it feels like I'm running out of boost early , vcds doesn't show up anything abnormal but then I've not been able to do a full on live data run to see if it is losing boost at higher rpm, so just replacing it as its the original N75 unit.
Ran VCDS yesterday and no probs at all but it feels like I'm running out of boost early , vcds doesn't show up anything abnormal but then I've not been able to do a full on live data run to see if it is losing boost at higher rpm, so just replacing it as its the original N75 unit.
Ordered and airxo top up kit since I think it needs one found that the system doesn't go icy cold anymore it cools down a lot but not how it used to... will arrive this weekend so just waiting for it to show up and fill it up myself as I won't be paying more than absolutely needed for a simple top up.
I've had great results on my B5.5 with the STP gas which has a sealant in it. The gas on that used to leak out after about 2 months, but since I used the STP gas it was cold for about 4 years, I think it needs a bit more now though to be fair.
Northpole what kit did you get?
The Mk4 is 26 years old, and the air con has never been re-gassed once...and it's freezing cold when I use the A/C in that.
I checked the power steering fluid in that last week....bang on max and as clean as if it was filled yesterday....it's the original fluid.
Northpole what kit did you get?
The Mk4 is 26 years old, and the air con has never been re-gassed once...and it's freezing cold when I use the A/C in that.
I checked the power steering fluid in that last week....bang on max and as clean as if it was filled yesterday....it's the original fluid.
I got a cheap kit of eBay, nothing special but it has it's an all in one thing: sealant, R-134A, oil and a UV leak detection dye... it was just under 40 pounds including the needed fill pipe with a gauge and the right LP quick connector. I was going to buy the STP kit but the price of it here is rediculous, the cheapest i found it was at a steap 110 pounds for the full kit including the trigger pipe and stop leak bottle. So I kept looking around and found a more basic kit but they work as i used them before. A normal refill service here costs about 60 to 90 pounds ( depending on the gas used (the B7 uses R-134A and that is the low priced one)
My Mk4 never got a refill either but that only had airco not climat control. And i found that with most climat control systems they'll need a topup as they are in use most of the time, turn on the heat and the CC is on using the airco to keep the heat down to the set temperature and even if you go full blast heat it still uses the airco to keep the heat in check. the only time it's not in use on a CC is when you turn the complete thing off. and don't use the interior ventilation at all.
PS the kit i used does come from a specialist airco company here in the UK, and judging by the reviews i read about the product they sell it is as good as the more expensive STP kit, also the bottles are way cheaper to buy than the STP kit refill. ( a set of 2 refill gas bottles, note it's the all in one stuff, is only 30 pounds)
My Mk4 never got a refill either but that only had airco not climat control. And i found that with most climat control systems they'll need a topup as they are in use most of the time, turn on the heat and the CC is on using the airco to keep the heat down to the set temperature and even if you go full blast heat it still uses the airco to keep the heat in check. the only time it's not in use on a CC is when you turn the complete thing off. and don't use the interior ventilation at all.
PS the kit i used does come from a specialist airco company here in the UK, and judging by the reviews i read about the product they sell it is as good as the more expensive STP kit, also the bottles are way cheaper to buy than the STP kit refill. ( a set of 2 refill gas bottles, note it's the all in one stuff, is only 30 pounds)
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My STP bottle is empty now, so I can take it back to Halfords for a £10 cash refund.
Not sure about the quality of the seal where the specific STP braided line with gauge attaches to the bottle. I took it back last year and swapped it as when I was screwing the line to the bottle a lot of gas leaked out....nasty stuff. I saw the seal was split after one use the previous year. So I'm happy to try a new type of kit to keep in the garage. Having 4 cars all with A/C it's a useful thing to keep.
Do you have a link to what you bought?
For 26 years the climatronic in the MK4 has been set to fahrenheit so yesterday I pressed AUTO and ECON together and now it's in degrees celsius
The outdoor temp displays in XX+ half degrees...but the cabin temp is only adjustable in whole degrees.
Not sure about the quality of the seal where the specific STP braided line with gauge attaches to the bottle. I took it back last year and swapped it as when I was screwing the line to the bottle a lot of gas leaked out....nasty stuff. I saw the seal was split after one use the previous year. So I'm happy to try a new type of kit to keep in the garage. Having 4 cars all with A/C it's a useful thing to keep.
Do you have a link to what you bought?
For 26 years the climatronic in the MK4 has been set to fahrenheit so yesterday I pressed AUTO and ECON together and now it's in degrees celsius
The outdoor temp displays in XX+ half degrees...but the cabin temp is only adjustable in whole degrees.
@Matt275 click here
and the kit just came and i already topped the system up. make sure you remove the little purple seal that should stay in the cap of the LP line. that one little bottle was enough the car is back to being as cold as a fridge when put on low. and it was every beit as easy as the TP kit bar, the fact that the pipe has a reales tap for the bottle that you turn down to open the bottle ( or is it up since the bottle needs to be in upside down position for filling) and the opposite direction to stop when it's full.
ps the pressure was low anyway when i filled it up as it was just under 20 psi... it's now back to it's normal 45 psi ( actually i emptied the bottle in one go so it's a bit more than 45 psi) the nice thing about the older type fill pipe is that it only fits the LP connector on the system so you can't do it wrong. Plus I know the system hasn't got any leaks so I decided to top it up.
and the kit just came and i already topped the system up. make sure you remove the little purple seal that should stay in the cap of the LP line. that one little bottle was enough the car is back to being as cold as a fridge when put on low. and it was every beit as easy as the TP kit bar, the fact that the pipe has a reales tap for the bottle that you turn down to open the bottle ( or is it up since the bottle needs to be in upside down position for filling) and the opposite direction to stop when it's full.
ps the pressure was low anyway when i filled it up as it was just under 20 psi... it's now back to it's normal 45 psi ( actually i emptied the bottle in one go so it's a bit more than 45 psi) the nice thing about the older type fill pipe is that it only fits the LP connector on the system so you can't do it wrong. Plus I know the system hasn't got any leaks so I decided to top it up.
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just now put a temp reader in the car when the thing is blowing after about 10 minutes it blows 8 degrees celcius cold air... i think that's colder than it has ever been as i found myself quickly putting the CC off. Next time i'm in the car i'll set it back to 18 degrees Celcius as that is a nice temperature warm enough to not be cold yet cool enough to not sweat. regardless of how thick a coat i got on 
It means it's r134a bit they somehow compressed it. So one small can equals 700 grams of r134a. In my oyster topic I put the link to their website. Buy it from there it'll be cheaper.
Nice one... just went to the website and saved £3
I have a TDS water tester which also works well as a digital thermometer. I can use that at the vents.
I think the Audi only needs a smallish top up, just to make it that extra bit crispy cold. I did try with the STP can last year but I think the can was as good as almost empty.
Thanks again northpole.
I have a TDS water tester which also works well as a digital thermometer. I can use that at the vents.
I think the Audi only needs a smallish top up, just to make it that extra bit crispy cold. I did try with the STP can last year but I think the can was as good as almost empty.
Thanks again northpole.
Ok chaps, whilst still trying to locate the source of the vibrations I've had the car up enough to get under with space to have a good look at the propshaft and it seems ok, no apparent free play so that maybe another area ticked off the list, but, I suspect the problem maybe more serious .
After getting the car back on the ground and checking for the clunking sound, it seems to be coming from the gearbox, not the propshaft, a definite clunk with some free play to be felt on forward or backward movement, not good.
So I'm not sure where to go from this point, it could be excess play in the diff or just a gearbox problem, whatever it is, it needs to be sorted. Also have a clocking from the front nearside when on full lock when pulling away , it goes when in a straight line.
A problem with the diff may account for the clocking on full lock etc , any thoughts chaps.
After getting the car back on the ground and checking for the clunking sound, it seems to be coming from the gearbox, not the propshaft, a definite clunk with some free play to be felt on forward or backward movement, not good.
So I'm not sure where to go from this point, it could be excess play in the diff or just a gearbox problem, whatever it is, it needs to be sorted. Also have a clocking from the front nearside when on full lock when pulling away , it goes when in a straight line.
A problem with the diff may account for the clocking on full lock etc , any thoughts chaps.
No GMV boxes to be found.
The closest direct replacement, which won't involve a different rear diff is a GYY .
same spec and ratios so would go on without issues and work ok, a couple for sale so might just take a chance as they arent silly money, cant be any worse surely.
Will involve a box of job again, which won't be ideal, but if it solves the problem then that's is what must be done.
The closest direct replacement, which won't involve a different rear diff is a GYY .
same spec and ratios so would go on without issues and work ok, a couple for sale so might just take a chance as they arent silly money, cant be any worse surely.
Will involve a box of job again, which won't be ideal, but if it solves the problem then that's is what must be done.