What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
No, Mtec. I've used Mtec ones for a while and have never had any issues to date. I'm only doing the front now as they are worn a fair bit , and I doubt they are the cause of the vibration.
I find them very good, sensibly priced and good quality , what else could one want. 
maybe even cheaper than what they are now, but retaining the same quality and product specs... I know i want everything as cheap as possible.... but wouldn't you agree with that?what else could one want.
Nothing wrong with my thinking lol probably won't happen but at this point i'm not fussed since i don't have the B18 calipers yet, I will some day but not at the moment.
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Replaced the rear ARB top bolts, I lost one because somehow i forgot to tighten it when i replaced the rear springs... still can't figure out how a managed to do that, but i did run up and down that day doing other stuff inbetween that had nothing to do with the car. so i must have put in inplace hand tight, than forgot to tighten it. Anyways... i went to the dealer for a new set as not one of the other aftermarket carparts sellers could just order the top bolts... and at just over £5 and 2 days wait i picked them up and fitted the lost one. it didnt't take long at all, the bolt itself was on in 3 minutes... it took me about 20 min... 30 min with me taking the tools out and putting them away again after i was done.
had a spare half an hour this evening so made a start swapping the new font discs.
Old AMG disc off pads cleaned up and new S5 disc fitted back on the nearside front, nice easy 30 min job and no issue with the disc retaining screw that affects the AMG disc setup.
I will do the offside in the morning after my rice cripsies, sliced toast, and marmalade. Yum.
Hopefully should be another 30-minute job .
I just wish i'd opted for the S5's back when I did the 18z retrofit, I was aware of the options but ended up with the AMG discs, maybe it was because they came with the calipers, anyway it would have saved all the faff getting the CB enlarged and the retaining screw hole predrilled on the AMG discs, still, you live and learn.
Old AMG disc off pads cleaned up and new S5 disc fitted back on the nearside front, nice easy 30 min job and no issue with the disc retaining screw that affects the AMG disc setup.
I will do the offside in the morning after my rice cripsies, sliced toast, and marmalade. Yum.
Hopefully should be another 30-minute job .
I just wish i'd opted for the S5's back when I did the 18z retrofit, I was aware of the options but ended up with the AMG discs, maybe it was because they came with the calipers, anyway it would have saved all the faff getting the CB enlarged and the retaining screw hole predrilled on the AMG discs, still, you live and learn.
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All done , just need to do 20 miles to clean off the surplus coatings
The old offside disc was pretty worn .
The old offside disc was pretty worn .
Nope wobble is still apparent , but no surprise.
Can only be the steering rack now.
Can only be the steering rack now.
Have you checked the wheel bearing.
yep, both sides are new, I did them when I did the whole front-end suspension and bushes.
I have done the lot Richard, I can't see what else it can be other than a steering rack issue.
I have done the lot Richard, I can't see what else it can be other than a steering rack issue.
What I have noticed, and it would point more towards the rack, is that the problem is worse since I had a go to adjust the free play a week ago.
I nipped it up, which didn't do anything so I backed it off again, Whether that backing off of the adjuster has made it worse now seems very possible.
I nipped it up, which didn't do anything so I backed it off again, Whether that backing off of the adjuster has made it worse now seems very possible.
Adjust the rack, not sure mine is adjustable, do you have a semi electronic rack?
All the 2.0tfsi special eds have servotronic and as such all have the free play adjustable function.
It's not adjusting the rack operation as such , it's reducing the free play in the rack when not under pressure.
It's not adjusting the rack operation as such , it's reducing the free play in the rack when not under pressure.
wait, what? you didn't replace the pads at the same time? ( you know it could potentially warp the new disks) a well you are doing it now... just wait next time until you got the disks and pads at the same time so you only have to take the lot apart once. also a great time to address the state of the calipers ( only if they were just painted)
Nope, I had these new ones but the old ones were almost new and in good condition, put them on just to see how they ran, not bad but not as flat as they looked so opted to fit the new ones.
Only done about 2 miles on the old ones , not even enough to burn off the protective layer.
Off shortly for a proper bedding in drive .
good thing you changed hem by the looks of the old disks these used pads ( if they ran in right) could potentially warp the disks. You replaced them so the potential problem is avoided.
yep , I've been around brakes long enough to know the do's and don't and what may just be servicible.
A quick drive and all seems ok , well apart from the steering shake, might pop down to my local tyre centre this afternoon to get the wheels balanced again, not that they were out last time but just ticking boxes now.
when was the last time you replaced the power steering fluid ? if you can't remember maybe a fluid refresh will do the trick as i doubt it's got anything to do with the steeringrack itself but the fluids? let me say it this wa, the vectra c has an electrical powersteering rack that is partly mechanical ( just like ours) when i had some steering wobble and all the other things where replaced i almost replaced the steeringrack... than i realised, i didn't do the powersteering fluid replcement yet... I went to remove the lot and what came out was well and truly past it's best. it had the same black particles in it as brakefluid does once it gets old... once i made sure i had all of it out ( used a fluid transferpump to drain it) i than ran half a bottle of new fluid through it, started the car and moved the steering wheel from side to side to get the last of the dirt loose and into the oil.. i removed that than replaced the lot with new.. the wobble was gone. Not long after the rack sprung a leak though so those black particals in it where from broken seals... had those replaced as i couldn't be ***** to pull the rack and change the seals. On a vectra-c the seals of the rack can be replaced in situ, if you have the comfort of a bridge, so took it to one of my mates that works in a garage and he sorted that out for me. i did part with more money than it would've cost me if i diy-ed, but it took tthem less than an hour... DIY without a bridge, would've taken a lot longer.
I changed the hyd fluid three years ago and again a few months ago when I drained down the PAS to remove the engine.
I was having a look earlier and there is definitely something going on with the steering rack. I can hear knocking sounds with the weight of the wheels and the engine not running, Small steering wheel movements do appear to result in knocking sounds from the rack.
This does also appear to be what it says in Elsawin about adjusting the free play that can be noticed.
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I am very tempted to just remove the steering rack and get it checked out properly, I really cant see what else it can be now.
Had the wheel balancing checked this afternoon, and they were spot on so no need to redo them.
Had the wheel balancing checked this afternoon, and they were spot on so no need to redo them.
I did have another thought: could it be a gearbox-related issue?
I just struggling to track the source down, Logically I've replaced all the parts it could have been except the rack , assuming that's not the culprit , what does that leave , the gearbox?
I just struggling to track the source down, Logically I've replaced all the parts it could have been except the rack , assuming that's not the culprit , what does that leave , the gearbox?
the gearbox should be fine maybe the snub mount or the rear gearbox mount but that would be visible when you have the car up on all corners start it and put it in gear... you'd have back and forth movement plus a clonk... but as you stated it's only there in the steering, not when you change gear.. it could be the steering column joint that connects to the steering rack... it's the part i would investigate before even thinking of pulling the rack, as the steering collumn is way easier to get to than the rack...
@Charlie Farley try moving the steeringwheel left to right, not by turning it, but horizontal the same vertical, whilst it's in locked position... if it moves it's the steering collumn, the bolts that hold it aren't to blame but ware to the locator mechanism... i have seen this on vauxhall cars with a moveable steering column. It does give a slight wobble in the steering. But to be fair i've never seen this on an Audi with an adjustable steering collumn... the mechanism on both is identical and same materials are use so it could be that. so be fore you go and pull the rack try that first...
it's actiually a MOT fail but most testers don't even bother to do that test unless it's that bad they notice it during a test drive... (and when it is that bad you'd have noticed it already) but do the left to right and up and down movement first.. it rules out the mechanism, and leaves the bottom joint to the steering rack ( maybe that needs a little nip up)
it's actiually a MOT fail but most testers don't even bother to do that test unless it's that bad they notice it during a test drive... (and when it is that bad you'd have noticed it already) but do the left to right and up and down movement first.. it rules out the mechanism, and leaves the bottom joint to the steering rack ( maybe that needs a little nip up)
Had my Aircon regassed today, as I tried it when we had a warm day, hardly any cold air.
I found an offer at ATS ,if you book online £67.50.
Had it all done today and all working great, guy said there was hardly any gas in the system so that accounts for lack of AC.
I found an offer at ATS ,if you book online £67.50.
Had it all done today and all working great, guy said there was hardly any gas in the system so that accounts for lack of AC.
Anyone got any coil pack recommendations for tfsi?
Car seems to have originals in place and there is a very very slight ‘wobble’ on idle from time to time.
So I think I’ll replace all and see if it makes a difference - can’t hurt…. (Hopefully!)
Car seems to have originals in place and there is a very very slight ‘wobble’ on idle from time to time.
So I think I’ll replace all and see if it makes a difference - can’t hurt…. (Hopefully!)
I'd be inclined to check if they are the original factory fit ones as there was a recal for them and if so you may still get them replaced under the recall.
Its probably a bit long but worth a go.
Its probably a bit long but worth a go.
after so many years the question is if they'll do it... chances are very small, that all said if you have to forkout for a new set look no further than the R8 coilpacks... they cost effectively the same for 4 as the upgraded ones you can buy from the aftermarket... in such cases I always pick the OEM equipment over the aftermarket upgrade option
I don't think there is a time limit on recalls, if its outstanding even now then they should replace them.
That said, they may just say, "Well, age is a factor, and they have lasted this long, so they are not faulty."
R8's are a good option , APR red tops are good, have them myself now.
Maybe worth changing plugs at the same time.
That said, they may just say, "Well, age is a factor, and they have lasted this long, so they are not faulty."
R8's are a good option , APR red tops are good, have them myself now.
Maybe worth changing plugs at the same time.
oww changing coilpacks and not the plugs is false economy... if they are old the new upgraded ones will ware the plugs out super quick... and if you upgrade you either get colder plugs or oem plugs. completely up to you. APR's are good shout, but as i said i'd go R8 oem manufacturer since the prices are not far off from one another for a set of 4.
Been out in the garage getting ready to fit the Hybrid KO3 330BHP Hybrid Turbocharger K03 5303-970-0106 STAGE 3
turbo over the weekend, I'll also refit the decat pipe I was using, may as well utilize it.
Double checking I have all the bits, there is nothing worse than starting a job only to find out when it comes to refit that a vital small part is missing.
turbo over the weekend, I'll also refit the decat pipe I was using, may as well utilize it.
Double checking I have all the bits, there is nothing worse than starting a job only to find out when it comes to refit that a vital small part is missing.
Any recommendation for plugs? Also are there torque settings for plugs?
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