What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

Allways something….lol
Be careful cars will be the death of us all... all the injuries we get from working on cars ourselves will come back and bite us in the backside at a time when we least expect it... "says the man who had an engine dropped on his chest", while laying under the car securing the rear engine mount... luckily for me it was just a suzuki alto, and I was in my early 20-ties, but it did damage my back and I feel it now everyday, especially when it's cold like this.

Other than that just crack on I do the same, and people look at me in wonder when they see the stuff I undertake outside in the parkinglot with hand tools. Lol I must be crazy... but it saves me a ton of money!
 
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The people who wonder are the type who go online and book Halfords to change a wiper blade...and then blame Halfords for when their infotainment system stops working a year later....they genuinely would believe the two are linked.
 
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Thats the problem with hands, they are a brilliant tool but also a prime candidate for injury,they just get in the way sometimes..lol
 
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Manifold off after some gentle persuasion being careful not to break anything, two injectors were still in the head and two came out with manifold, inlets are pretty gummed up which was to be expected from a 100k on a no previous decoke engine.
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I wish I could even see into my inlets like that. BRD is a separate port for each inlet valve, tiny, plus quite a trek to actually get to the stems.
 
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A few hours this afternoon and making progress.
1 injector still to extract as the other came out with little effort.
Valve cover etc all off , just small bits really .
Thermostat and housing all off ready to be replaced.
Picked up a revised oil suction pipe this morning along with the other bits.
I wasn’t going to bother but sump will be off so might aswell change it.

I need to replace the black single wire plug on the starter motor , 7-10 day back order , must be an in demand plug assembly , that said its such a pain to get off I'm not surprised so many get broken and need to be replaced.

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What if I had warm place to work in the car would have been done today... but still waiting for the broken bits to be delivered and called it a day at 16:00 remember I have to build half the car backup due to it being outside.

But engine is timed up, exhaust side is completely assembled, just leaves the intake side to sort. But because of how hard it'll be to get those broken parts replaced with the intake bolted back on, I left it off for now...

Also struggling to find one pipe so will browse etka to find the oem part number and see if I can find it. I can patch the pipe but rather replace it. But for today I am done.

Good luck with your engine... I'm ust really happy with how clean the intake and exhaust ports actually where and are :) nothing like what you had Rob!.
 
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The garage is a big bonus but it's not heated now so it is only marginally warmer than outside but at least I can leave off and not worry about getting bits back on mid job, you'll be glad to get it done chap.
 
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The gummed up inlets do seem to clean up ok , I've had a go at number 1 with a soft scraper and some OB41 carb cleaner and it does appear to soften the crud up very well, i was very surprised at how well to be honest.
I may not bother with the walnut blasting and head off in light of this experience, just do all 4 manually with the soft scapers, brush and OB41 then suction out, as long as the ports are clean and free from crud that will be fine, not fussed about the polished finish as it will need doing again at some point, as long as it clean and smooth .
 
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Just working out the best method of extracting the old pilot bearing from the crankshaft, may require a homemade puller of some description.
 
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Yeah as long as you get them clean it will make a massive difference. I was kinda amazed at how clean my engine is on the inside... knowing full well I didn't block the egr system... it's just clean. Even the cat was kinda clean on the inside. But I think that's from the headgasket failure as the 1st cylinder and 3rd cylinder both had coolant ontop of them...

Anyway just waiting for parts so I can finish it off.

Ps I normally use a bottle jack in a make shift press setup to push bearings out. If they have to be pulled a make shift puller from a piece of threaded metal a bolt and something large enough to take the bearing does the trick every time.
 
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I was thinking about using a 16mm rawlbolt, tightening enough to expand the clamps then a slide hammer to shock it out, I don't think they are that tightly held in.
 
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I was thinking about using a 16mm rawlbolt, tightening enough to expand the clamps then a slide hammer to shock it out, I don't think they are that tightly held in.
Should work, I used that method before with success
 
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And I got no chance of finishing the car as no parts got delivered yesterday... I did prep the dipstick tube job by cleaning it and removing the last brittle bits. Funnily enough the sealing ring that snaps around the base is in new state... but the dipstick tube parts just crumbled away into a fine powder ...

So just waiting for the parts now so I can put it all back together and drive it again.

A tip for everyone... if you have to remove the intake, remove the dipstick tube first. I didn't and it snapped just above the top of the base it clicks into. Bit chan ea are if you go to remove it it'll do the same... point in case mine just crumbled to powder when I went to remove the bit that stayed around the base... so best to buy a new one just incase if you have to take the intake off.they cost around 5 pounds so best to have one laying around rather than having to wait for delivery.
 
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Not much done today , other things todo but making progress all the same.
Two inlets ports decoked , one injector still to remove and its being a bit stubborn, not going to force it though, will have to invest in a puller for this one, cheaper than having to replace the injector, will do no3 and no4 inlets tomorrow.
Removed the sump ready to fit the free wheel mod to the oil pump, first thing was check the suction pipe gauze for debris etc, nope all clear, other than a bit of residual oil it is clean and free from sludge or debris.
Same with the sump pan, other than oil residue no signs of debris , metal fillings etc which was excellent news, just proves that these engines can be free from the oil starvation problems if the oil servicing is done regularly and way sooner than the udi long life service schedule.
I bought the revised pipe anyway so will fit it now, but, after 105k miles and oil pump chain , tensioner etc are fine , original suction pipe free from debris and sludge it does prove a point really, the original setup does work ok , but only if the engine is looked after during its lifetime. The long life service is one factor that kills these engines , there are other factors though but the design does work.
As the sump is of I'm going to remove the oilpump anyway and give it a good clean check-over etc, just makes sense given its key role in the life of the engine .

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It's showing how well it's been taken care off. Just upgrade as planned and make it better than it is ;)
 
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I may not bother with the walnut blasting and head off in light of this experience,
Mate do youself a favour and replace the headgasket regardless of how clean or easy it is to clean the ports... reason why i say this is you are going to run more pressure, best to do that with a new headgasket and a freshly cleaned torqued up cylinder head. Now you don't have to walnut blast the lot if it cleans up fine... and if the head is anything like mine... it doesn't need much skimming and can be cleaned up with some scotch's brite green pads. I skimmed mine just to make sure hence the minimal 0.01mm i removed only because i had a leaking headgasket, in your case you can pull the head and just clean it and reassemble it as you haven't had a problem with the head at all.

You'll be glad you did it as it gives you access to the top of the cylinders and you can check the state of the bottom block (check if the cylinder walls aren't damaged)

Back on topic :
I had to patch one of the coolant pipes because it fused itself to the metal part it connects to and couldn't get a replacement for it, although the dealer has it I'm not paying £ 26.04 for a coolant pipe (it's only 10 cm long ) Also the stuff i use to patch the pipes, makes them stronger and it lasts forever. It's an amalgamite silicone tape (it fuses to itself) the split is repaired with a special rubber glue that keeps the elastisity (it's expensive as hell but works a treat) than i wrapped the complete pipe in the silicone tape. It needs to be stretched while wrapping it around but once you are done looks like an oem pipe. It does take 24 hours before it all cures so i did that yesterday when i decided that a repair would be more cost effective than spending money for no reason at all since i had the patch stuff already.
 
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Well lucky me! i just got the dipstick tube delivered, but the part i really need is the bottom pipe that connects to the top of the oilfilter cradle and the pcv valve.... anyways can't do nothing until it shows up, as chances of snapping the new dipstick tube are very high if I put it on first as the pipe i'm waiting for literally runs right next to it. during putting it on it'll probably cause damage. so instead of me pushing the dipstick tube on and refitting the intake.

Talking about said intake... i washed it as it had oil on it and seriously i like my engines clean, only because I work on them myself... now don't get me wrong as soon as i'm done with putting it back together and the car runs as it should, the engine will get a jetwash done. there are some traces of oil and coolant. happened while i was dismanteling the engine and we alll know that both coolant and oil pipes always drip some left over stuff out of them whilst they re disconnected... that is why I laid a big piece of cardboard under the engine compartment to catch any spills. Needless to say that piece of cardboard was almost soaked.

I'm just hoping the needed part arrives today so i can continue.
 
A bit more done this afternoon.
I had to drive up to the big smoke this morning for a meeting and I now recall why I stopped driving to London , its not user friendly...:frown new:

That aside , the oil pump is off, that pesky no3 injector is out. It was anyoing me being stuck in there , i'd ordered a puller kit ( which will e going back now unused) but after a bit of a think and scan of the tool box, a modified wiper puller worked perfectly.
ports all decoked and head is off.
new head gasket due tomorrow along with a valve guide seal kit.

Thats all the bits removed that I am taking off, a general clean up of the sump pan, oil pump and it can go back on with the new wasomotor freewheel.
get the head cleaned up and refreshed and back on , then all the rest inc new turnbo kit etc.

making progress now.
 
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@Charlie Farley Whoohoo! Progress! Glad to hear you are getting through the steps, it's just one of these things every little thing done makes for a smoother and better running engine in the long run.
 
Indeed, just chipping away at each item, I'm eager to get it all done but mindful that silly mistakes created by rushing a job is not an option, do it properly once. :thumbs up:

I was just looking at the list of things todo, seems to be a fair bit..lol
new turbo kit to go back on, along with all the new engine parts etc, the dmf/clutch new slave cylinder, sort the gearbox out, then get it all refitted , then the new decat and miltek system and tips to fit plus the Airtech FMIC to go on .
replacing the heater matrix again and new front B8 S4 discs.

Thats more than enough to keep me busy for a few more days.

then sort out the new maxton side skirts and LCR front lip back on.
 
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Sump pan all degreased and baked on oil removed ready to refit.
Also oil pump all checked ,clean inside and out to get rid of residual baked-on oil.
 
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Allmost forgot about fitting the new xenon bulbs too...that's an easy one now..lol
 
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@Charlie Farley one tip i will give you now that the engine is out is the time to sling on the new exhaust system... you've got more space and it just means once you go to put the engine back in all you need to do is hookup the new exhaust system to your fresh engine.
 
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allready in progress chap, it was my plan to fit the main system with the engine /gearbox out , just made sense given the extra working space., thanks for the heads up ,:thumbs up:
 
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:thumbs up: Sump’s not been this clean for a long time.

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I should've cleaned mine... but a flush was enough. Cleaned pickup and slung it back on. Couldn't be bothered washing it since it had no sludge or mayonnaise in it. The head had some traces just ontop where the camshafts are but that got cleaned with brakecleaner.

Engine has no oil in it just yet and I'm debating on chucking just a little bit in for the smallest lubrication and rust prevention as the part is still in transit.

Not happy about the late delivery but it is how it is.
 
oil pump all refitted with wasomotor freewheel and revised pickup pipe
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Just working out the best method of extracting the old pilot bearing from the crankshaft, may require a homemade puller of some description.
Hi Rob,
Where did you get your new pilot bearing and do you have a picture of it? Getting a bit confused keep getting 2 different ones shown,
part No 06B 105 313C , the Luk part number is showing 2 different , one is just a basic roller bearing, the other is a bearing with a closed end?

And yes, I think my clutch is slipping so looking for parts and get someone to fit them, as I was quoted the whole job @ £1793.42 all in. WOW
from a respected Vag independent.
 
Hi Richard , the pilot bearing was from my local audi dealer , p/n 06B 105 313 C it is a closed end bearing .
That price is about right from an indy Richard, i had several quotes from £1500 to £2500 , £1750-£1900 is about average.

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Hi Richard , the pilot bearing was from my local audi dealer , p/n 06B 105 313 C it is a closed end bearing .
That price is about right from an indy Richard, i had several quotes from £1500 to £2500 , £1750-£1900 is about average.

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Thanks Rob, that clears that up for me, Price for the clutch is scary, but they will replace all the , propshaft bolts and others required,
but still, I'm retired.
 
Thanks Rob, that clears that up for me, Price for the clutch is scary, but they will replace all the , propshaft bolts and others required,
but still, I'm retired.
Jup and for that money you can buy the next model up with a full year's mot... so if you want to keep it it's best to diy. If you can't diy than you'll have to make a decision of the repair or going for a younger car with potentially other problems.
 
Hi Richard , the pilot bearing was from my local audi dealer , p/n 06B 105 313 C it is a closed end bearing .
That price is about right from an indy Richard, i had several quotes from £1500 to £2500 , £1750-£1900 is about average.

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I'm still confused, this is a picture of a sachs bearing, can you show me a picture of you actual part please with part numbers, I fitting an Luk clutch.
 
I will do Richard.
I'm fitting fitting a Luk kit and its the correct one, that was just for reference on type of pilot bearing,notthe exact item.
 
It’s a “D” revision part , I ordered the c but the newer d was supplied.
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another visit to my local audi parts dept to pick a new starter motor loom plug and turbo oil return gasket for sump, always something.
 
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