What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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If they are Ok lengthwise i may have a chat with an engineering friend, see if he can turn a pair of inserts that fit over the existing outlets and the tips can slide onto , that way the overall length won't be increasing in the way it would with normal reducers.
I’ve always thought the finish on your existing tips looked great with the bright work or are you thinking of refinishing that
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They would only need to be 50mm long and 3.25mm thick, maybe a better option .
I'm sticking with the S4 valance, and most likely the Audi OE one fitted, the ECS one is nice but too expense now.
The Miltek quads have a better profile and with 80mm outlets, not the 90mm I have now, with the OE valance would be a better fit and more in profile with the B7 curved bumper/valance.
I do like the current stainless steel ones but the Miltek ones may just take things up a level, and the special eds all had black tips from the factory so not so far from originality.
My original plan back in 2018 to go quads started like this, and was my preferred look with 80mm outlets but I just couldn't find the right ones off the shelf hence why I settled for the current 90's outlets, they are great but the overall effect could have been better.
This is where it started off in sep 2018 with the S4 valance and some old tubing.
80mm outlets in quad mode are by far the best fit with a nice even gap, 90's are a bit snug..lol
This is where it started off in sep 2018 with the S4 valance and some old tubing.
80mm outlets in quad mode are by far the best fit with a nice even gap, 90's are a bit snug..lol
76mm ,s4 valance (still unpainted
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Ahha, did they come from the guys in cyprus James.
76mm ,s4 valance (still unpainted)
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That’s em ,I remembered you mentioning them quite some time ago ,took a look and pulled the trigger
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They have some nice kit, sadly with brexit now not really a viable source , a real shame .
Its allways very possible that the milteks will still be too long so i will be refitting the 90's , watch this space. 
I literally only just didn’t miss the last boat
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ECS have some very nice kit just a shame they are in the states and cost so much.
Also the very limited range that’s imported.
Also the very limited range that’s imported.
Just had the dimensions, looks like the miltek tips are way to long, oh well, not to be on these.
well you can do what you like you bought them already... make 'em sit nice and snug perfectly spaced and you are winning.
PS that diffuser you put up way earlier is nice (the one that has those pronounced fins)
PS that diffuser you put up way earlier is nice (the one that has those pronounced fins)
Yes that is the ECS carbon diffuser, they are rather nice but after shipping , taxes and duty ontop of the selling price they are very costly, its a shame sellers like awesomegit don't keep them in stock as they do other ECS kit.
I'll just retain my current quad tips and retro fit onto the new miltek system, will still be an excellent setup.
probably because there is almost no profit in selling them, I noticed that certain body parts, that are made by ECS, are sold on aliexpress but the prices are equally as high as the price ECS charges.... so that doesn't make them cheaper to get, a shame as i saw a DTM bumper that according to a few audizine members is a perfect fit straight out of the box and it's made by ECS.
I did look at it a few times as it just looks like the perfect swap including making getting a honeycomb front grill easier as it uses the smaller size grill. But I've made up my mind about not getting one, it's just to much hassle. I'll just make my own honeycomb grill once i bag a cheap S-line grill. I do enjoy making little modifications like that anyway, as they make such a big impact on the overall look.
Replacement Xenons arrived today, may be a good improvement on my current units, but I'm tempted to fit them tomorrow , but may wait until January when I have to remove the whole front end anyway and saves struggling to get the nearside one in with the headlamps still fitted .
@Charlie Farley Jup just wait until you have to take the front bumper off, makes fitting them so much easier as you can remove the lights once the bumper is off.
but back on topic: I wet to the shop this morning to all of a sudden be greeted by a scraping noise coming fro the OS front wheel area... on inspection I found my wheelbolts being loose all 5 of them where loose.... took out the torque wrench and tightened them all up.. problem gone. don't know how that happened but must have been me not tightening them up
but back on topic: I wet to the shop this morning to all of a sudden be greeted by a scraping noise coming fro the OS front wheel area... on inspection I found my wheelbolts being loose all 5 of them where loose.... took out the torque wrench and tightened them all up.. problem gone. don't know how that happened but must have been me not tightening them up
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I probably will. I still recall the farce when I swapped the OEM xenon bulbs for a set of Morimoto xenons, which was a right pain.
The driver's side is no problem, but the nearside is an absolute nightmare, and if one has hands bigger than a 5-year-old's, it's just worse, I spent ages doing that one .
It's always easy to overlook a final nip of the wheel bolts; I think we've all done it at some stage.
A lot of major nice work, Rob - what's your total budget on this, if I may ask? I've turned a corner in business; and so 2025 is looking brighter. One thing it means is another major road trip down to Spain. And so in the New Year I'm getting the now 263K old cruiser, tip top. Strictly OEM, but up to snuff. I've started: Carplay is now working good, and I'm getting used to Apple. It works instantly and reliably. Going in tomorrow for the paintwork on the codger damage, to the bumper. I was embarrassed too, about the condition of the headlights, so I polished them - it's made a world of difference to both reach and illumination as well as keeping the car looking much younger. Debating whether to renew the suspension and shocks; though it's perfectly fine and I have no squeaks or noises; handling is nigh on perfect too; but when I had the oil pump and cambelt done by Straighline Performance, they said it was a bit tired - at 263K and all original, not surprising really. One thing is definite, she will be shod with all Michelin Sports before I set off; though the Kwik Fit Arrowspeeds have been remarkable; I just think a car looks so much better with quality rubber.
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New numberplate screws too; for the missing cap on the white cap one; every little bit helps. Total interior clean due Monday; that's just dust that looks worse on camera.
I don't have a preset budget as such, more a case of as far as the allocated car cash fund goes ...lol, but I allow about £2k a year for work across all parts of the old bus, weather that's service parts mods and tweaks, but and its a big but, that figure is normally way off.
This year has been more just because of the clutch/dmf that needs doing, the exhaust is starting to fail, I did the filter housing and cooler etc and lots of other bits , also lashed out on the Airtec IC and bits.
So it may seem like I'm just spending out for the sake of it, the reality is that most parts do serve a purpose to keep the old bus running nicely, with the added bonus of a level of upgrading, a win-win situation.
I think from a quick tally up this year the old bus expenditure will be in the region of £3500 - £4000 , but that is for a lot of kit and maintenance work I've done since the start of the year.
next year it should be a fraction of that, well I hope so.
That all sounds pretty reasonable to me, Rob. You couldn't get anywhere near as nice a car even if you put that towards a fund for a newer one. It's not an outrageous sum by any means; and keeping these cars tip top pays huge dividends - you can spend a small fortune on a 3-5 year old too.
I'm debating a full decoke too of the inlet manifold and EGR; and possibly having the turbo rebuilt (I want to keep as much of the OEM as possible, rather than replace; that's just me; and now it's a journey of who between us lasts the longest) although again she is completely on song; and performance is nigh on perfect; and there is absolutely no turbo issues or whistles on this original one - the 140's turbos are smaller than the 170's but they have boost almost instantly and are much more tractable IMV, especially away from lights or roundabouts. I will be redoing the nearside alloys that got kerbed when a van at speed, forced me into the side, on a village country lane, with a narrow pavement. At City Wheel in Digbeth, Brum, again; the ones on the offside are still perfect, after 2 years - they properly shot blast and powder coat, unlike most other joints; 50 quid a wheel, same day. Then body and wheels will be all finished; bar a major polish and detail.
I'm debating a full decoke too of the inlet manifold and EGR; and possibly having the turbo rebuilt (I want to keep as much of the OEM as possible, rather than replace; that's just me; and now it's a journey of who between us lasts the longest) although again she is completely on song; and performance is nigh on perfect; and there is absolutely no turbo issues or whistles on this original one - the 140's turbos are smaller than the 170's but they have boost almost instantly and are much more tractable IMV, especially away from lights or roundabouts. I will be redoing the nearside alloys that got kerbed when a van at speed, forced me into the side, on a village country lane, with a narrow pavement. At City Wheel in Digbeth, Brum, again; the ones on the offside are still perfect, after 2 years - they properly shot blast and powder coat, unlike most other joints; 50 quid a wheel, same day. Then body and wheels will be all finished; bar a major polish and detail.
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That is my view too, every bit I replace is another job done and overall they all add up to a nice well sorted car.That all sounds pretty reasonable to me, Rob. You couldn't get anywhere near as nice a car even if you put that towards a fund for a newer one. It's not an outrageous sum by any means; and keeping these cars tip top pays huge dividends - you can spend a small fortune on a 3-5 year old too.
I'm debating a full decoke too of the inlet manifold and EGR; and possibly having the turbo rebuilt (I want to keep as much of the OEM as possible, rather than replace; that's just me; and now it's a journey of who between us lasts the longest) although again she is completely on song; and performance is nigh on perfect; and there is absolutely no turbo issues or whistles on this original one - the 140's turbos are smaller than the 170's but they have boost almost instantly and are much more tractable IMV, especially away from lights or roundabouts. I will be redoing the nearside alloys that got kerbed when a van at speed, forced me into the side, on a village country lane, with a narrow pavement. Then body and wheels will be all finished.
Agreed ,one can buy a much newer car and have more hassle and expense , on a the scale of things my car with 105k miles is not that much, I've seen newer audi with the same milage for stupid prices..
The downside with the B7 , well all older audi's now is there age and age related wear like brake hoses corroding , wiring issues , trim aging etc but most things can be overcome .
I think the first falls under the realm of standard age related service items. Knowing your car is the absolute best preventative. Before my brother retired and still had his garage, last year, I had the Audi on the lift and we waxoyled it properly; I noticed the centre box has holes at the seams; but it has never failed an MOT yet. That will be replaced though, early 2025. No issues with hoses etc. but there's been quite a lot of replacement there. My electricals are all bang on now - I replaced some corroded light stuff, in the rear; replaced some fuses. switches etc. but the air con flap motors for example, all perfect. I think they are pretty well made and durable, in these cars and mainly poorly neglected cars, maybe in previous hands, are the culprit. I was lucky; someone looked after this car, until perhaps it's last 2 years before it fell into my hands (one year in the MOT records, only 4 miles were covered) I even broke the glovebox hinges, myself, that had been perfect in the previous 12 years!!
I don't pay any labour cost for 99.9% of the work on the old bus, as I do it myself I save a lot, and it is a lot of money in garage labour cost.
I channel those savings into other work mods on the old bus so I'm in reality getting a lot of work/bits for free.
If I wasn't able to do the work then I would have to look at ownership more carefully and what I spent on it, luckily that's not the case but for many it will be a important consideration.
I channel those savings into other work mods on the old bus so I'm in reality getting a lot of work/bits for free.
If I wasn't able to do the work then I would have to look at ownership more carefully and what I spent on it, luckily that's not the case but for many it will be a important consideration.
I do pay labour costs - so that's a win you have over me - but my brother's trade contacts have kept major work near as damn it; and it's been a lot more economical than otherwise, or a newer car. I debated recently with the turn up, getting a newer one and now I will be able to afford it - but I don't want that - with the Head Unit, it's as good as anything newer and looks a hell of a lot better... and I'm attached to it; and that's that. I don't have a garage; I don't have the extensive tools. I would love one and know quite a bit from the old days; but my lazy back is bad and business wise I never had the time. I absolutely hate waiting for my car to be sorted, each and every time, but you've got sort these things; hopefully that will be less and less, once I get on top of it, before Spain now.
I'm getting geared up to pull the engine in January to do the DMF/clutch and other engine bits.
I'll just extract the whole engine/gearbox package in one go, it may seem like a big job, well it is but overall its the best plan to do the work i have planned and given i don't have a lift it is by far the best and most effective method.
I did get a few quotes from garages to do the work i have lined up but a few didn't want to know and those that did were just plucking numbers out of the sky and tripling them.
I'll get the sump off and do the suction pipe and oil pump free wheel sprocket change, decoke the inlets, fit the new turbo kit, dmf /clutch and gearbox mounts too, any any other engine bits whilst its out.
Refit engine with the new miltek and decat pipe , front Airtec IC etc , job done and all in a single job.
saves doing each job separately.
I also tend to be very cautious on some jobs like clutch replacements done in a garage, having been stung before I don't really trust what I can't see if that makes sense, I'd only have the garages word of what been done and fitted and that is a concern I have, I shouldn't but from previous experience it does happen.
I'll just extract the whole engine/gearbox package in one go, it may seem like a big job, well it is but overall its the best plan to do the work i have planned and given i don't have a lift it is by far the best and most effective method.
I did get a few quotes from garages to do the work i have lined up but a few didn't want to know and those that did were just plucking numbers out of the sky and tripling them.
I'll get the sump off and do the suction pipe and oil pump free wheel sprocket change, decoke the inlets, fit the new turbo kit, dmf /clutch and gearbox mounts too, any any other engine bits whilst its out.
Refit engine with the new miltek and decat pipe , front Airtec IC etc , job done and all in a single job.
saves doing each job separately.
I also tend to be very cautious on some jobs like clutch replacements done in a garage, having been stung before I don't really trust what I can't see if that makes sense, I'd only have the garages word of what been done and fitted and that is a concern I have, I shouldn't but from previous experience it does happen.
That last comment is why I end up doing most things myself. I've been burned a few times by garages doing a half baked job. I rather do it myself even though I have no garage and work outside.
I'm still not convinced the failing DMF is the source of my steering vibration though, I know the DMF/clutch needs replacing that's a certainty, but after a drive out today I still feel its steering oriented.
As the only part left , the steering rack itself may be the culprit. The servotronic racks can be problematic and devolp small levels of free play , which can be adjusted out.
access is far from easy but with the engine it would be a missed opportunity to not check it all out properly, it wont be the rod ends as they are new.
What I have found is this, when the rack is not under any hydraulic pressure load a small amount of play can be felt when moving the steering wheel left to right, it's not a lot but its there. When the rack is under pressure on idle it can't be felt , but at higher speeds there is a feeling of play in the steering, not much but its there.
Anyway, I'll add that to the list of jobs to be done.
As the only part left , the steering rack itself may be the culprit. The servotronic racks can be problematic and devolp small levels of free play , which can be adjusted out.
access is far from easy but with the engine it would be a missed opportunity to not check it all out properly, it wont be the rod ends as they are new.
What I have found is this, when the rack is not under any hydraulic pressure load a small amount of play can be felt when moving the steering wheel left to right, it's not a lot but its there. When the rack is under pressure on idle it can't be felt , but at higher speeds there is a feeling of play in the steering, not much but its there.
Anyway, I'll add that to the list of jobs to be done.
Whilst I totally share your concerns; and I've had the same - for example the non-existent wheel bearing, that was 're-newed' two years ago and I have just had done again, properly - I demand photos of the work now. And some jobs like clutch and DMF are beyond the facilities and skill of most people; as I said I haven't got the gear and space now. My clutch and DMF work was first class; and the gear change is light and silky smooth now. Straighline Performance took detailed photos of the KMB hex key/balance shaft upgrade; and I trust them too. As I said besides, it's mostly been otherwise trusted trade contacts through my brother. And anyway, even getting on now, and you don't know me; but I am not the type of guy who gets messed about; without them getting messed back, more so too. The original wheel bearing guy, who I know, has got a visit coming too lol.
Today has been very good, not directly on the old bus but more towards getting it sorted.
I've been on the lookout for spare parts for my clarke strongarm engine hoist, it was immaculate before I leant to a friend that then ruined it, anyway that's another conversation...
Both rear cast iron casterwheels were destroyed and generally the rest was poor having been left outside for some time.
Having spent way too long back in Febuary to source replacement parts, I hit a brick wall trying to source them correctly or even close to being suitable, clarke parts for it were discontinued with no alternative parts either, basically, it was just scrap.
Nothing happened since due to my health issues until this month when I made the decision to get something else, most used ones were silly expensive for rubbish and my local hire shop wanted £20 a day +vat which is not too bad if you get done in a day, but any over run and its get costly.
By sheer luck a was browsing FB market place for some wire when i noticed a clarke CES750A engine stand, new and never used just storage marks, I thought that's worth a look a closer inspection .
I saved the image and magnified the image, bingo it has the same swivel cast wheel as were fit on my hoist, spent a while trawling the web for clarke part numbers and sure enough its the same part, and they are discontinued, but hey that doesn't matter as these are new and what I've been searching for.
Not really local so a 70-mile round trip this afternoon to collect it, £50, and parts problem solved, i think the parts were ,if available £20 +vat each plus del so that'would have been around £55 delivered.
A quick check this afternoon and they are spot on, happy days .
So that will get my trusty hoist back up and working , no need to lash out on a costly used one or hiring out one and a rush to get it returned.
sometimes things just workout.
may even be able to use the rest of the stand for another purpose.
I've been on the lookout for spare parts for my clarke strongarm engine hoist, it was immaculate before I leant to a friend that then ruined it, anyway that's another conversation...
Both rear cast iron casterwheels were destroyed and generally the rest was poor having been left outside for some time.
Having spent way too long back in Febuary to source replacement parts, I hit a brick wall trying to source them correctly or even close to being suitable, clarke parts for it were discontinued with no alternative parts either, basically, it was just scrap.
Nothing happened since due to my health issues until this month when I made the decision to get something else, most used ones were silly expensive for rubbish and my local hire shop wanted £20 a day +vat which is not too bad if you get done in a day, but any over run and its get costly.
By sheer luck a was browsing FB market place for some wire when i noticed a clarke CES750A engine stand, new and never used just storage marks, I thought that's worth a look a closer inspection .
I saved the image and magnified the image, bingo it has the same swivel cast wheel as were fit on my hoist, spent a while trawling the web for clarke part numbers and sure enough its the same part, and they are discontinued, but hey that doesn't matter as these are new and what I've been searching for.
Not really local so a 70-mile round trip this afternoon to collect it, £50, and parts problem solved, i think the parts were ,if available £20 +vat each plus del so that'would have been around £55 delivered.
A quick check this afternoon and they are spot on, happy days .
So that will get my trusty hoist back up and working , no need to lash out on a costly used one or hiring out one and a rush to get it returned.
sometimes things just workout.
may even be able to use the rest of the stand for another purpose.
maybe time to try this process to see if it addresses the vibration through steering wheel, if not its another box ticked of the possible cause list.
Just ordered a new Luk DMF from parts in motion and an up rated Sachs clutch kit from awesome
Just need a new slave cylinder and release bearing.
Just need a new slave cylinder and release bearing.
I may have found a set of 5 D2 8,5j alloys at a sensible price, just waiting for confirmation of part numbers.
Nope aborted the D2's , not as expected which is a shame, still ,others will appear in the future.