What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

N/s rear bulb holders been playing up .. burnt out earth pin on the connector so spliced in a new wire to bypass the damaged pin and connector plug until the new bulb holder cluster and plug arrives


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
Just a maintenance wash tonight. Collinite 845 insulator wax doing well after a month. Can say that BH Surfex HD @10% works well in the wheel barrels with an EZ Detail brush.
I always go into the barrels with the brush but with GT wheel shampoo usually, but I think the Surfex HD has more clout.
Quick spray of Gyeon wet coat on the wheels and they look very tidy.
The Kranzle K10 122TS really is a brilliant machine. 4 years old now, a real workhorse it is. It's not even noisy, but jeez it packs a punch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gmac and northpole
No need to soak the inlet overnight in diesel or petrol or GUNK etc then?

Ref the inlet ports on the head, I'll need to make sure that as I work on them that the valves are closed? I could keep the car in gear and rock it back and forth and watch for the valves to close?
Hi there - I did an inlet manifold clean on my (clears throat) Mercedes not long ago (it was a complete b'stard to get off). The inside of the manifold was down to approximately HALF the diameter it should have been! I left it submerged overnight in a large plastic box filled with a Caustic soda & water mix (heavy on the caustic soda).
When I pulled it out the next day it was absolutely spotless inside & out! Merely required a rinse down with a hose pipe.
A very satisfying result - it looked like a brand new part & even the swirl flaps were all perfect.
I also HIGHLY recommend a fuel additive product called FuelTone (available for Diesel & Petrol engines) - I have had amazing results with this over the years & use it regularly in all my (and family) cars.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gmac, northpole and Matt275
Hi there - I did an inlet manifold clean on my (clears throat) Mercedes not long ago (it was a complete b'stard to get off). The inside of the manifold was down to approximately HALF the diameter it should have been! I left it submerged overnight in a large plastic box filled with a Caustic soda & water mix (heavy on the caustic soda).
When I pulled it out the next day it was absolutely spotless inside & out! Merely required a rinse down with a hose pipe.
A very satisfying result - it looked like a brand new part & even the swirl flaps were all perfect.
I also HIGHLY recommend a fuel additive product called FuelTone (available for Diesel & Petrol engines) - I have had amazing results with this over the years & use it regularly in all my (and family) cars.
Thanks boffin.
So the caustic soda didn't damage the aluminium manifold?
What sort of results have you seen from Fueltone for diesel?
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
Thanks boffin.
So the caustic soda didn't damage the aluminium manifold?
What sort of results have you seen from Fueltone for diesel?
Not sure about that, the Merc manifold is hard plastic. Caustic soda is very nasty stuff - you could try making a small quantity in a bucket & chucking various bits/types of scrap metal into it to see which it attacks. Unfortunately, I suspect Aluminium is one of them.......
I can (from experience) say that I tried various fuel cleaner products with limited success but when I tried FuelTone for the first time, I put it in my dad's Passat TDi 130 which had, over the years, become rather smokey with a smell of diesel hanging around. It came to MOT time & I added this a week before (to a full tank) & drove it about in various modes (from cruising to thrashing). I noticed it gradually getting better & better until there was virtually no smoke visible! When I took it for the MOT, it passed the emissions test with the lowest figures it had ever had (0.0something)!
It is not an every tank requirement but worth doing it on a monthly basis. I use it on the diesel (Land Rover/Mercedes) & the petrol Cars (Audi/Mercedes/Kia) that myself & the rest of the family have. I'm the designated mechanic for all of them........... :sadlike:
I reckon it's the best value I ever had from a product so definitely recommend it. You can get it on ebay.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Matt275
Not sure about that, the Merc manifold is hard plastic. Caustic soda is very nasty stuff - you could try making a small quantity in a bucket & chucking various bits/types of scrap metal into it to see which it attacks. Unfortunately, I suspect Aluminium is one of them.......
I can (from experience) say that I tried various fuel cleaner products with limited success but when I tried FuelTone for the first time, I put it in my dad's Passat TDi 130 which had, over the years, become rather smokey with a smell of diesel hanging around. It came to MOT time & I added this a week before (to a full tank) & drove it about in various modes (from cruising to thrashing). I noticed it gradually getting better & better until there was virtually no smoke visible! When I took it for the MOT, it passed the emissions test with the lowest figures it had ever had (0.0something)!
It is not an every tank requirement but worth doing it on a monthly basis. I use it on the diesel (Land Rover/Mercedes) & the petrol Cars (Audi/Mercedes/Kia) that myself & the rest of the family have. I'm the designated mechanic for all of them........... :sadlike:
I reckon it's the best value I ever had from a product so definitely recommend it. You can get it on ebay.
Ah I did wonder if the Merc intake was ally or not. Even Mr Muscle hates ally, I sprayed some on an old cast ally piston from my Subaru...it etched in in a matter of minutes.

Ooh I also have a Passat TDI 130 AWX....best PD ever made by VW. It's a B5.5 2004 car with 152k miles on it, those 1.9's really iron out from about 3k RPM...smooth as anything, albeit a tad noisy compared to the more modern 16 valve stuff.

Same with my Mk4 Golf, 1.9 but only a baby 115 AJM, but does have the 6 speed super long ratio DRW gearbox mated to it which makes it quite good fun really. It's a 2000 car and only 52k miles on it. My mums from new and mine for last 10k miles, we drove it out the showroom at Grimm in Hamburg 24 years ago. The build quality is really good, very much just like what I'd describe as a baby B5.5 Passat - Love both of them. Had my Passat 18 years!
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
Yesterday i replaced the front wipers as the old ones where a bit noisy ... still cleared the windscreen but it's an audi, it maybe an old bus but it's a luxury brand, so no reason for it to make all that noise... the old ones tried to be stubborn but came off as they should, the new ones went on without a problem. I also got a replacement OS bottom rear suspension arm as the one on the car has movement because when i did all the work I messed up the balljoint thread... I did recut the thread and it was fine for all off 3 months (it even passed the MOT so it as fine) but as these things go ... the thing has given up... so i found a replacement new OEM arm at a bargain price (via a mate who works at Audi and recently sold his b7) and was going to put it on yesterday... but live got in the way so that had been put on a back burner for today... just for me to wake up to rain... will see if the weather changes today and it's dry enough outside to quickly replace it.
 
And the weather did not soak the parking lot for once, so as soon as it dried for an hour i was out there putting that suspension arm on... for once it went smooth and i finished it in just over an hour, including taking the tools out and putting them away. After replacement I drove the car to check for that suspension noise... it is gone.. upon closer inspection of the old arm i found that the boot on the baljoint had split and was running without any grease left in it...yeah that'll make some noise when you don't expect it... also checked the balljoint for that thread repair... it was holding it inplace but half of the tread on the baljoint had seen better days...glad i replaced the whole arm... i got just the NS left with the original rear arm on there... I might do that if i can find it around the same price as this one, but there is nothing wrong with it, would be nice to have the same fresh bush, arm and balljoint on the opposite side
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gmac, ttelracs and Matt275
Getting ready to fit the rest of the bits tucked up in the garage.:yahoo:
 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486 and northpole
That would be a great shame Rob if you did.
I've heard that the wbac boys are on commission for what they kick your car for....the more they slate it and get it cheaper from the owner, the more commission they earn.
That could be cobblers, just what I've heard.
The old bus is here to stay now, I've engaged brain and see the B7 light and it is shinning brighter than ever now. :yahoo:
 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486, Rob Avant, ttelracs and 4 others
Sadly life throws up curve balls all to often, i know the feeling all to well, best of luck chap. :thumbs up:
 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486 and northpole
yeah it is how it is and i take it as it comes, day by day... can't say it's boring it's just a WTF period, collect thoughts, act according to the situation and keep the spirits up... not much else that can be done really.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486 and Gmac
Same here, bought all the bits to refresh front suspension over the Bank Holiday but having to make journeys plus replacing radiators in the flat has put that on hold. Driving to Bournemouth this weekend so not this one... and on it goes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486 and northpole
Same here, bought all the bits to refresh front suspension over the Bank Holiday but having to make journeys plus replacing radiators in the flat has put that on hold. Driving to Bournemouth this weekend so not this one... and on it goes.
I know what you mean mate...
 
Not had much time for anything car related lately. Always pondering on more audio and power upgrades for the future.

Did a 400 mile round trip to North Yorkshire and back, the clutch/ dmf is still playing up. It’s going into the garage as soon as I’ve got the time/ money to get it sorted.

It’s been five years since I did all the control arms and I think they are getting tired. A couple of worn bushes were brought up in the Audi Cam video when it went in for the recall (the only thing they could find wrong)
Debating whether to get the uprated 034 kit or stick on another Febi kit.

Then, maybe, just maybe it will be time to get the big turbo on… if nothing else goes wrong.

Meanwhile, the old MK4 just plods on without any issues. Treated it to an uprated Whiteline ARB as it’s been so good (and they had a sale on)
 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486, ttelracs, Gmac and 2 others
@Rob Avant might i suggest you go for the 034 kit as you are planning a power hike... best to replace te tired bushes and while doing so stiffen the complete suspension up beforehand.
The oem quality febi kit although good enough for stage 1 won't last long with anything over 300 bhp and 350 nm they'll simply perish within a few years as they get stressed waymore (that is if the extra power is used frequently)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob Avant
AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.
Eight and a half hours to get the pinch bolt out and still the upper arms won't pop out even with the hammer.
Started at 10.30, stopped for lunch and to watch the first half of UTD - Liverpool then back out and stopped at 8pm.

Play will resume tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • 20240901_124506.jpg
    20240901_124506.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 76
  • 20240901_192335.jpg
    20240901_192335.jpg
    6.3 MB · Views: 73
  • 20240901_190638.jpg
    20240901_190638.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 77
  • 20240901_185302.jpg
    20240901_185302.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 80
  • 20240901_182557.jpg
    20240901_182557.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 76
  • 20240901_180142.jpg
    20240901_180142.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 71
  • 20240901_180137.jpg
    20240901_180137.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 69
  • 20240901_143937.jpg
    20240901_143937.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 74
  • 20240901_135433.jpg
    20240901_135433.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 66
  • 20240901_131454.jpg
    20240901_131454.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 74
  • 20240901_130258.jpg
    20240901_130258.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 70
  • 20240901_130254.jpg
    20240901_130254.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 78
  • Like
Reactions: spartacus68 and northpole
Yep, sounds and looks a normal situation to be honest.
did you get it out or still locked in battle with the bolt?
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
@ttelracs I do not envy you at all but can relate to the situation... I have decided that if and when mine needs changing again i'll buy the knuckle and the top arms with a new pinch bolt... that way at least you don't have to bother getting that seized pinchbolt out.


Ps the bolt has to come out completely... or at least be past the 2nd arms balljoint for both to pop free. It's how it's designed and basically even if you don't torque the pinchbolt to spec the 2 balljoints will not come free as the design doesn't allow them to come out once the pimchbolt is pushed in.
 
Last edited:
Yep, sounds and looks a normal situation to be honest.
did you get it out or still locked in battle with the bolt?
That last picture shows what was left of the bolt after heating it up, drilling it (burned out my cordless drill doing this too) using a hand held grinder and then switching to the big boy to cut the bolt down as I used the nut to 'tighten it' and pull it through. Wasn't sure the tears were from joy, relief or that I wasted one of the warmest days of the year over a bolt.
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
@ttelracs I do not envy you at all but can relate to the situation... I have decided that if and when mine needs changing again i'll buy the knuckle and the top arms with a new pinch bolt... that way at least you don't have to bother getting that seized pinchbolt out.


Ps the bolt has to come out completely... or at least be past the 2nd arms balljoint for both to pop free. It's how it's designed and basically even if you don't torque the pinchbolt to spec the 2 balljoints will not come free as the design doesn't allow them to come out once the pimchbolt is pushed in.
Yep, the bolt came out finally, I'll remove the tie rod for the steering this evening after work which should help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
A modicum of success this evening as I managed to remove the strut and replace the shock absorber.
But I couldn't remove the tie rod end and the right hand arm couldn't be removed either.
I'll be purchasing a drift set and anther pickle fork as I broke that as well trying to remove the top arm.

In the end I removed the three bolts at holding the shock in place and the drop link allowing me to drop the shock enough to release the bolts holding the arms to the top mount.
Every bush is worn, torn or loose and I'm now so glad I've bought all the arms and bolts to replace.

When I removed the old shock I compressed, 45 mins later it had barely risen.
With luck I'll have this done by Wednesday...
 

Attachments

  • 20240902_190738.jpg
    20240902_190738.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 69
  • 20240902_194530.jpg
    20240902_194530.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 69
  • 20240902_194816.jpg
    20240902_194816.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 70
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486 and northpole
@ttelracs I know how frustrating the top suspension arms can be.... but with the shock not coming up be assured in the fact that you did the right thing... mine in the front are still good, the rear though.... well they are dampening but they are tired... the reason why i know is simple... the stuff i have in the back isn't heavy but heavy enough to visually drop the rear (reverse rake) so time to replace them... but live has chucked a spanner in the works, so it'll probably be done later this month... that is if it stays dry for a few days on end. But I might have it done, can't really have the car out of comission right now.
 
Last edited:
Yep, agree 100% with @northpole . I'd been putting it off for months and know it'll be oh so worth it when finished. I did my rears a few months back, sooo much simpler and straightforward. If I don't get this done soon though it'll be getting in the way of life.
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
Well i hope the rears will be straight forward... I'll start soaking the bolts and nuts in penetrating fluid starting this weekend... that'll be way before getting the shocks anyway i might be lucky although i doubt it.
 
Well i hope the rears will be straight forward... I'll start soaking the bolts and nuts in penetrating fluid starting this weekend... that'll be way before getting the shocks anyway i might be lucky although i doubt it
The trickiest bit for me was removing and putting the back the arch liners. Recommend having new rear mounts with dust covers and protection kit. I reused my dust covers and protection kit as the ones I ordered never turned up, but replaced the rear mounts as they had definitely seen better days,
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
@ttelracs good tip i was going to buy new dust covers but didn't think about the mounts... I shall get the lot and build them up before I try and remove them. As I said i'm in no hurry just want it done in a few hours... so best to get the lot (with new bolts) build it up than attack the lot on the car... that way i don't have to be super carefull with the bolts and nuts... if they give up no problem i got new ones to put on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ttelracs
60-75 mins per side as essentially three nuts, one where the shock bolts to the rear hub, two bolts for the mount to the chassis and one more to remove to change the dust covers.
You'll be surprised how straightforward it is for an Audi.
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
Progress with the front shock four steps forward, one step back.
When I hammered out the top arm on the left hand side I had to use a drift but I didn't realise that I marked the hole with the drill bit when drilling out the bolt... I couldn't get the arm properly seated. After realising my problem I used a drill to smooth it out and a flap wheel to take a little material of the knuckle which worked. I got it seated but getting the bolt back in was tough so I screwed it back in. The big problem is that the bolt isn't the strongest and so the thread wore down meaning the nut now no longer will go onto the thread. I'll need to use a die to retap it and I think the best solution is to remove it, take a bit more material off then reseat it. Ahhhh.

The last image shows the bolt not properly seated but I'll tackle it tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • 20240903_180201.jpg
    20240903_180201.jpg
    5.1 MB · Views: 76
  • 20240903_180932.jpg
    20240903_180932.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 65
  • 20240903_180939.jpg
    20240903_180939.jpg
    7.4 MB · Views: 76
  • 20240903_182811.jpg
    20240903_182811.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 63
  • 20240903_203237.jpg
    20240903_203237.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 70
  • Like
Reactions: spartacus68
that part with the slit in it is out of line (read to wide) causing the problem.... i ran into that and in the end that is what broke off... ending up replacing the complete knuckle because of that..... be carefull with it and try not to shave off any material. Plus how those top arms are held in place you need to push them all the way in before pushing the bolt in place... otherwise they'll strip it.
 
8d86de0d98b2e58d98507a5fe78d56d4.jpg

Swapped the 18” Ssm 9 spoke wheels for the bbs ,washed the 18s ready for storage,gave the car a good clean and swapped the sline badges for Quattro just cause I had them and the sline badges were looking a bit tired


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: markthenewt, boffin486, Gmac and 3 others
Preparing the old bus today ready for this weekends list of jobs, i expect it will be throwing it down though....:whistle2:

on a different note, I'm taking a leap into the darkside of german automotive for a 2nd time , first time was not that impressive , hoping this time it maybe different.

M3 CSL (e46) convertible , manual box.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: boffin486, Dan_G, Matt275 and 3 others
just ordered suitable replacement gearbox oil or the weekend.

 
  • Like
Reactions: boffin486 and ttelracs
Preparing the old bus today ready for this weekends list of jobs, i expect it will be throwing it down though....:whistle2:

on a different note, I'm taking a leap into the darkside of german automotive for a 2nd time , first time was not that impressive , hoping this time it maybe different.

M3 CSL (e46) convertible , manual box.
Mate.... you will wonder how it's possible to have so much fun while pottering about in that car... just a heads up, parts can be extremely expensive with it being the CSL but once it is in good condition...it's worth owning....
 
Preparing the old bus today ready for this weekends list of jobs, i expect it will be throwing it down though....:whistle2:

on a different note, I'm taking a leap into the darkside of german automotive for a 2nd time , first time was not that impressive , hoping this time it maybe different.

M3 CSL (e46) convertible , manual box.
My friend has the CSL with the carbon fibre airbox, PS12 Bilsteins and uprated brakes front and rear. It's sooo lovely. Weird driving it as there is no torque low down or should I say, little torque compared to our 'modern' turbo cars which will pull from 1500 rpm. But I do enjoy taking it out for a spin after working on it, it gives a real sense of occaision.
 
THANK YOU.
DONE. Thanks again for the advice @northpole as I used a blowtorch to heat up the area and a clamp to squeeze it just enough to close the gap slightly. This worked and along with a new M10 bolt grade 8.8 and using the same clamp to ensure the arms were seated properly all good. I thought I took some more pics but must have forgotten as it had just started to rain and I was keen on putting everything away. And yes, it feels firmer and so much better, can't wait to tackle the other side... NOT.
 
  • Like
Reactions: northpole
Preparing the old bus today ready for this weekends list of jobs, i expect it will be throwing it down though....:whistle2:

on a different note, I'm taking a leap into the darkside of german automotive for a 2nd time , first time was not that impressive , hoping this time it maybe different.

M3 CSL (e46) convertible , manual box.
Sounds like a cracking choice, not going to lose money it either, although not sure about convertible..and didn’t realise one could get the csl as a convertible. Every day is a school day!