What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

Hi Richard, it's very unlikely to be that to be honest, the part delete is just a filtered bypass setup for all intensive purposes.
Any oil particles in the airflow will be retained in the catch tank and the micron gauze filter reduces to allmost zero anything being returned back into the turbo and back to the intake.
Whats the idle like , smooth or lumpy?
 
Hi Richard, it's very unlikely to be that to be honest, the part delete is just a filtered bypass setup for all intensive purposes.
Any oil particles in the airflow will be retained in the catch tank and the micron gauze filter reduces to allmost zero anything being returned back into the turbo and back to the intake.
Whats the idle like , smooth or lumpy?
Hi, Idle is spot on, does everything it should, cant get my head around it, all running well and drives spot on, boost is good and pulls really well
and fast acceleration.
Exhaust tips are sooty, but my son reconds all remap engines tend to have this.
 
Hi, Idle is spot on, does everything it should, cant get my head around it, all running well and drives spot on, boost is good and pulls really well
and fast acceleration.
Exhaust tips are sooty, but my son reconds all remap engines tend to have this.
Yes, remaps and fuelling can account for the sooty tips.
Maybe not ideal in the current weather but you can get a good idea of how much oil if any is getting directly into the turbo via the cam cover setup.
 
This is what happens with the OE PCV setup in place, all that ends up getting dumped directly into the turbo.
With the PCV bypass and catch tank, it shouldn't, well it's impossible to eliminate every last bit of oil-saturated air from the PCV but you should not be getting anywhere near this amount if you are then something is amiss.

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What pipe is that? I'm guess the one that goes to the turbo,? is it worth checking for oil.
I have left the Catch Can drain open, would this cause anything.
 
it is Richard , from the valve cover.
Worth removing and checking without a doubt.
Since going the PCV delete route I've not had anywhere near the oil residue problems, IC pipes have been clear etc along with the return pipe to the turbo.
 
What pipe is that? I'm guess the one that goes to the turbo,? is it worth checking for oil.
I have left the Catch Can drain open, would this cause anything.
In a full pcv delete that pipe is removed and replaced with a blanking plate.

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End result is that all this gunk is kept out of the engine and more importantly not fed back into the intake and combustion cycle.

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Braved the cold today and fitted an 034 motorsports snub mount and cage. The old bush had certainly seen better days and the OEM cage looks excessively big.
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The polyurethane foam oem item is only good for a few years at a time.
For those that want something better than the oem bung but not quite as firm as the 034 or power flex items, the A6 bung is an excellent compromise
 
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Its been a while since i've messed around with it , but just remove the rubber turbo intake pipe so you have better access to the two screws securing the metal flexipipe to the turbo , and remove the top fixing and thats it , of comes the pipe.
 
with the pipe off you will be able to see inside it if there is any oil residue ,and with the rubber turbo intake pipe removed you can see if whats its like in there.
 
Hi all,

Just got an AV upgrade on the car finished.
-Kenwood DMX8020DABS head unit with DAB aerial
- JL Audio C2-650 FR component speaker set for the front
- JL CP110LG-TW1-2 subwoofer/enclosure
- JL Audio XD500/3v2 amplifier running the fronts and Subwoofer
- JL Audio RLC remote bass level adjuster for amp

No pircutres of the font speakers as they are just behind the OEM grill. Sub is secured as you can see with a bit of bungee.

Front doors and boot have been soundproofed as well.
 

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Hi all,

Just got an AV upgrade on the car finished.
-Kenwood DMX8020DABS head unit with DAB aerial
- JL Audio C2-650 FR component speaker set for the front
- JL CP110LG-TW1-2 subwoofer/enclosure
- JL Audio XD500/3v2 amplifier running the fronts and Subwoofer
- JL Audio RLC remote bass level adjuster for amp

No pircutres of the font speakers as they are just behind the OEM grill. Sub is secured as you can see with a bit of bungee.

Front doors and boot have been soundproofed as well.
Can’t beat a good audio upgrade, the OEM setups on these cars are poor even with Bose. I’m running those JL C2 650’s in the back on my system, good speakers. Dynomat’ing the doors is a must when running an active set up, sounds so much better with sound deadening :rock:
 
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Can’t beat a good audio upgrade, the OEM setups on these cars are poor even with Bose. I’m running those JL C2 650’s in the back on my system, good speakers. Dynomat’ing the doors is a must when running an active set up, sounds so much better with sound deadening :rock:
Yeah the soundproofing has made a crazy difference. I am super happy with it.

Next step for me is stage 2.
 
let us know your impressions of it over standard arb.

Didn’t have time for a proper go but just been for a quick blast , back end felt immediately tighter and more planted ,looking forward to a run out soon


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New lower front arms today as yearly test is coming up and it was an advisory last year
These cars always have a few surprises in store when it comes to suspension jobs


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New lower front arms today as yearly test is coming up and it was an advisory last year
These cars always have a few surprises in store when it comes to suspension jobs


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You have been busy bee James. :yes: :thumbs up:
 
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Ordered an add-on for the Alpine HU, probably never use it but worth a go.

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Ever since my 2.0 TDI Avant had the KMB oil pump and hex key upgrade, about 10K ago, I've been waiting for the low oil level warning. Before it would always come about 6K after a service and a bit less than a litre would sort it. But nothing! And so I got paranoid that the sensor was damaged or left unconnected with the mod. But using the old fashioned method of dipstick, that I had put off, since being a lazy so and so, revealed no. It was still at max level. I don't know what they did and whether new sump sealant helped but I reckon that's pretty good on the old goat, now clocking 240K.

I noticed at the same time the coolant, though, was on min level - for the first time in years of ownership. I can't recall checking it since the mod, so I hope it's just natural expansion (no oil in water or vice versa, in case you wondered). So off to the petrol station for some G12 ready mix. I slightly overfilled it beyond max. So reading all the usual paranoid sh1t on the net, I decided I had to syphon some off. YouTube, as ever is your friend - with it's help and despite having almost zero DIY skills, I have fixed my blown cooker, central heating boiler and two toilet ballcocks, for very next to zero pennies. I found a genius who had the simple yet brilliant idea, most of you surely already know, of taking the spray nozzle off some cleaning product, running clear water through it and then spraying the excess coolant out to a jar. Pleased with such a simple accomplishment, as we often are. Happy holidays everyone!
 
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Had to get under the car today, reason, when I lifted the bonnet to the expansion bottle was almost empty.
I remember a few months back the the coolant level had dropped a bit, topped it up but was concerned why it was low.
Checked from the top of the engine, nothing found, rear coolant flange looks good, bell housing top is dry.
So today, put the car on axel stands, checked all the hoses with the car hot and found nothing.
Looking at the undertray there is wet on the right of the centre which seems to be right side of the engine,
having a good look arround that area I found it wet on the engine block, see attached picture.
It's also wet on the sump below that area so it must be running down, so thinking it might be oil filter housing to block.
Anyone experienced this issue, I read changing the gasket may not cure this as the housing is plastic and can distort over time

any help or advise much appreciated.
 

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Had to get under the car today, reason, when I lifted the bonnet to the expansion bottle was almost empty.
I remember a few months back the the coolant level had dropped a bit, topped it up but was concerned why it was low.
Checked from the top of the engine, nothing found, rear coolant flange looks good, bell housing top is dry.
So today, put the car on axel stands, checked all the hoses with the car hot and found nothing.
Looking at the undertray there is wet on the right of the centre which seems to be right side of the engine,
having a good look arround that area I found it wet on the engine block, see attached picture.
It's also wet on the sump below that area so it must be running down, so thinking it might be oil filter housing to block.
Anyone experienced this issue, I read changing the gasket may not cure this as the housing is plastic and can distort over time

any help or advise much appreciated.
The oil cooler mounts to the front of that part as well and it's not uncommon for the gasket seal on that joint to leak with age so the engine block joint will most likely be in the same situation.
Its not a cheap part so maybe worth trying a new gasket seal first and go from there, best replace the front seal to.
 
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Hi Rob, so you recommend replacing oil filter housing gasket to block, and oil cooler gasket to housing.
..
 
Indeed.
you will need to remove the oil cooler first anyway to get the filter housing off to change the block joint seal so changing both is the best practice really as the front seal will be close to failing now.
 
have a look at this link Richard from @Bradderz_1988
Highlights what need doing.

page 1 halfway down.


 
Yes, looked but he replaced the oil filter housing and oil cooler,
His part No for the housing is 06F 115 397K so it must be revised part as mine is 06F 115 397H.
Did he not try gaskets first??