What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

The above is why i got a used front set of shafts off ebay in excellent condition... huge job saved,

finding decent parts is a nightmare, i did track down the oe supplier off the boots but i cant remember off the top of my head, someone one ebay was selling them.
 
I'm not even sure why I took my oem ones off and replaced with rubbish autodoc ones.
Anyway , the original ones are back on and operating nicely. :icon thumright:
 
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Came to conclude outer cv joints don’t come off without destroying it ,the taper on the inner race allows fitting ,but it’s a one way street ,it’s not there to compress the clip on the way off
 
Circlip on the end of the drive shaft like the inner cv would and should of been the design


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In all fairness the CV joint is not that bad a design, given it has to move in multiple directions whilst still providing rotational output it works very well.
The taper is to help the ring compress whilst moving the shaft into its final position within the joint, given the ring recess on the shaft and in the joint race it's only really designed to be a one-time fit, once removal takes place the ring is 9 out of 10 times broken as the recesses don't have a taper and are not designed to have otherwise it would defeat the object of the design and allow the shaft to just pull out with little force.

The snap ring is a good solution for the type of joint, I'm not sure there is any other method that offers ease of disassembly and rebuilds and for the most part a secure method of holding the shaft and joint together.


I don't really mind doing them, what I find annoying is the lack of motor factor info when selling these as there are numerous kits, and worse still the kits are always missing something such as the snap ring, given it is an important part, why don't they ensure the kits are complete and small parts are securely packed in the boxes.

Still, things will never change , and it just makes me that much more the wiser next time .
 
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Gave the interior a quick detail, scrubs up well considering it's an 18 year old car. Need to get my rs4 steering wheel and gearstick re trimmed and fitted.
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Weekly oil check etc today and all good, a quick look down and it would appear my nearside drive shaft cv joint inner boot is failing with grease starting to get thrown all over the place, there allways something.
So will be rebuilding that side this weekend.
 
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Took the old bus down to my local garage that I know I can trust for some possible damage investigation.
Since the pothole incident a week or so ago on the front nearside the front end seems to be shaking, more at a slow speed, almost as if the wheel is buckled or something is loose, really a bit disconcerting.
It cant be the wheel as I've moved it to the rear offside.
I have a suspicion that the impact has damaged more than just the tire and possibly the rim, they are snowed under with work and can't take a good look for at least 10 days, so ill have to put up with it for now and monitor the situation.
I have had a good look myself but without a ramp etc it's not easy to check for damage to linkages etc or maybe worse, everything seems ok but clearly, something is amiss somewhere.

Not good frankly.
 
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Well last night to be exact.
I had a strange dream that I sold the old bus and bought a ford galaxy, what was that all about, I woke up and realized that was more of a nightmare...:shrug:
maybe something to do with the current problems the old bus is experiencing.
 
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Took the b7 on a little trip to drive something a bit quicker
Gt3 Rs for the day ,the thing defies logic and physics


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Sun was out today so an ideal opportunity to give the old bus a bit of a clean, I've been a bit busy of late so it has been a bit neglected on the washing front for a fair few weeks.
Before that, another check under the bonnet revealed my nearside inner cv boot has torn and the outer has lost its clip, will need to order new parts tomorrow,no obvious signs of what is causing the shaking either, everything feels tight joint-wise, I'll have to dig further into it.
Ran a vcds scan and all clear so that's always a bonus, will need a pair of new tires shortly but I'm holding back to see what SCC comes back to me regarding my claim for pothole damage.
A few pics of a clean old bus .
It does clean up well for an old bus, almost worth keeping.:yahoo:

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Drove to Barnsley today to pick up a mint condition set of B7 S4 Recaro's. Hopefully fitting tomorrow if the weather is decent. Will be selling the B6 S4 Recaro fronts and RS4 rear bench off cheap in the next week or so. Along with the S Line seats.
 
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Today I decided to try and get to the bottom of the really irritating shaking and vibration from the front end of the old bus.
The front nearside inner CV boot was split anyway so in need of attention, my local motor factor shop ordered me a Borg&Beck cv bootkit which I must say is very good quality and a perfect fit.
So off with the drive shaft and on closer inspection with the inner boot removed the tripod joint seems ok so with plenty of grease still in the joint so repacked it with new grease, and new boot on.
The outer cv joint was not so good despite the boot being ok and not leaking.
With the boot on there was a lot of movement and certainly worn, but when i removed the boot the inners were rattling around a lot and very little grease was to be seen.
Where the grease went is a mystery as the boot wasnt damaged so an odd one really but the joint is worn to the point it needs replacing.
I suspect this is the source of my issues to be honest, I'd discounted the outer CV to a point as the culprit with the inner to blame.
Just to be 100% , I cleaned it up, repacked it with grease and a new boot, refitted the shaft and a test drive later the symptoms were very minimal, safe to say that the outer is the problem.
Probably best to order a pair of complete shafts now rather than just doing the outers, just need to find some decent quality items at a sensible price.
Decided against J&R as they seem to be very poor-quality complete units with a lot of less-than-idea comments across many brands of cars etc.

So a good day in some ways, at least I've found the point of failure, maybe the pothole incident didn't help the joint as the problem ha sonly really come to a head since that crunch.

time for tea and biscuits now.:yes:
 

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Having thought about it more I've realized this is the same outer cv joint that caused me grief back in May 2020 when the shaft decided it wanted to part company from the joint and left me stranded without any forward or backward motion, i wasn't amused at all.
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Charlie Farley said:
Having thought about it more I've realized this is the same outer cv joint that caused me grief back in May 2020 when the shaft decided it wanted to part company from the joint and left me stranded without any forward or backward motion, i wasn't amused at all.
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A thought occurs, nothing to do with cars, errrrrrrrrrrrrr.......... I hope you're not calling the wife Piggy Malone............... Sorry. Normal Service can now be resumed.......
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In my ongoing quest to solve the rattling/vibrations from the front end I replaced both front shafts with Apec items, they seem to be of good build quality with a 3 year warranty.
A nice easy couple of hours this morning inc tea and biscuit breaks..lo, ive got this shaft removal down to a fine art now.
A quick road test confirms the problem is solved but now i need to get the tracking and wheels balanced as i'm getting a bit of shake , not a lot but given the tire wear it is safe to say my nearside tracking is a mile out.

probably worth keeping the old ones for the new boots fitted in case i need a spare ..
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Whilst I was under the old bus this morning with the undertray removed it looks like a small oil leak from the oil filter housing area, probably the oil cooler, it's only small so i won't mess around with it now.
I've an oil filter change etc coming up in May so will probably address it then.

Allways something.
 
Swapped front wheels back onto the rears which means the pothole-damaged tire is now on rear offside, and now the front end is super smooth, the way it should be.
Happy days for now.

Just need to chase SCC about my claim.
 
Charlie Farley said:
Whilst I was under the old bus this morning with the undertray removed it looks like a small oil leak from the oil filter housing area, probably the oil cooler, it's only small so i won't mess around with it now.
I've an oil filter change etc coming up in May so will probably address it then.

Allways something.
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Mine is the same, small leak by oil filter housing, oil is on the block, there's a ledge and found it there,
Me thinks it's the oil filter housing to block, not cheap part.
Found leak showing on the undertray that side of the engine, near the middle.
 
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I think it's the same problem Richard and does appear to be a common occurrence with age as seals dry out and leaks occur.
I'd do mine when I do the next oil service in May, get it done and out of the way otherwise, it will only get worse and cost more in the long run with another unnecessary oil change etc.
It's just part and parcel of ownership of an older car really.
I looking into doing the oil pump upgrade too whilst i'm messing around in the engine bay.
 
Charlie Farley said:
I think it's the same problem Richard and does appear to be a common occurrence with age as seals dry out and leaks occur.
I'd do mine when I do the next oil service in May, get it done and out of the way otherwise, it will only get worse and cost more in the long run with another unnecessary oil change etc.
It's just part and parcel of ownership of an older car really.
I looking into doing the oil pump upgrade too whilst i'm messing around in the engine bay.
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That's not an easy job, couldn't attempt that job with just trolly Jack's and axel stands?
What upgrade you thinking off?
 
I may opt to use a lift and get all these outstanding jobs done and out of the way.
Not sure which options there still are on the market for the b7 tfsi oil pump solution, may have to do some research into best method.
 
I have several big tasks to do on the old bus which are more pressing and, to be honest, way more important than fitting the uprated turbo kit, so, i will press on with them.
On the scale of things by doing the crucial maintenance-based work now it will give the old bus a better chance of lasting longer when i fit the uprated turbo kit etc.

I need to address the oil leak from the oil cooler/filter housing thats appeared this weekend.
Oil pump upgrade or similar
new clutch and DMF
possibly look at a new exhaust system now as the oem one is starting to show its age around the back boxes.

thats enough to be getting on with.
 
On reflection, I may just use the engine out method.
I have an engine lift and engine stand and a dry garage to work in.
It sounds like a lot of hassle but in reality, it's the easiest and most cost-effective way to do the work in one hit from a DIY standpoint.
I can do the work over a few days without lift hire charges mounting up etc .
draining the coolant would need doing anyway along with engine oil etc, so its really only the time involved in getting it extracted, saves a lot of doubling up on fluids etc .
 
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Lot to be said for being able to take your time, in dry conditions, at no cost.

If you've another car it's a no brainer imo

re: 1.8T oil pump. Read a few accounts of people trying it and not getting the desired oil pressure and having to go back to the standard pump.
 
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tr7 said:
Lot to be said for being able to take your time, in dry conditions, at no cost.

If you've another car it's a no brainer imo

re: 1.8T oil pump. Read a few accounts of people trying it and not getting the desired oil pressure and having to go back to the standard pump.
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Wow, really doing all that work and not successful, then what is the best solution then??
 
Maybe worth going this route
Rip out the oem assembly and inspect for wear and tear then fit this VIS kit.
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The problem stems around the balance shaft .

  1. The OEM dual mass pulley can break up which will throw the chain off the oil pump and lead to loss of oil pressure, which can quickly destroy an engine.
  2. The balance shafts themselves can seize, especially when frequently driven at high RPM.
so logical solution would be to do the mod.
 
Maybe if a new pump assembly was not excessively costly and the modified kit fitted one would end up with a bullet proof setup.
 
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