Leshkin's Sepang Blue S3 Money Pit Project

Absolutely agree, i love the car for what it is and although mines just 7 years old i am growing to like it as it gets older. (and faster) :)
Yes you can go and buy a full spec car for £40k but its not going to be as quick and i like adding bits to the one i have.
 
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My thoughts entirely, I’m loving mine at the moment, just a remap and rear BCS to finish her off now. Can’t be ***** to move to an rs3 and I’m not sold on the 8v s3 yet.

Why start again if you look after them they last for ages, enjoy


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Yeah, the 8V S3 doesn't do it for me for some reason... The toys and tuning potential is cool, but if I was looking at a new Audi it would be the facelift RS3 with the virtual cockpit and adaptive cruise. It would be a lot more money though and zero opportunity to make it my own for fear of losing the warranty, so I'll pass... For now at least.

I have some ideas about sorting out a professional sound install, a Tyrol brace in the boot to stiffen up the rear a bit and then just maintenance, and small bits to tidy things up. Cool thing is, they are becoming relatively cheap to run with plenty of cheap/used parts about... I keep expecting my DSG to fail as it's done over 84k of pretty hard driving and if it does go, I'll pick up a reconditioned unit for a few hundred and carry on surprising leased Focus RSes, Golf Rs and an occasional RS3
 
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Totally agree with you all the newer cars in my eyes are Awful and as for justifying the price off a new Rs3 i just couldn't so sticking with my 59 plate S3
 
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Just got back from AKS Tuning after getting the RS3 injector seat head modification completed. The idea behind this was to create an extra notch in the seats to rotate the RS3 injectors by a few degrees and correct the spray pattern to be more in line with the stock injectors. This is meant to solve the cold start issues that are very common with these injectors as well as help reduce the smoke at wot. Its too early to tell how effective this is, but the theory is sound, and with a number of cars with this mod already, it seems to work... Time will tell.
 
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Always great to get updates Lesh, especially with these changes where you are pushing the boundaries of knowledge a bit :)
 
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Always great to get updates Lesh, especially with these changes where you are pushing the boundaries of knowledge a bit :)
Thanks buddy! I don't pretend to understand everything, but do tend to pick things up as I research the subject. I think most of my mods are pretty straightforward and quite common, but this one is probably one of the rare ones at least in UK. I'm really hoping that it helps with the issues I've had with it. If it doesn't work out, I can always switch back to stock S3 injectors as the original placement is preserved.

Some pics from today...

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Update on smoke... So far drove from AKS to west London and then to Cheddar this morning and not a sign of smoke! Cold start was a little lumpy, but she started without issues and is a definite improvement. Quietly happy about the mod for now.
 
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Thats a result mate, if you were going to have issues they would have shown on a decent drive like that, always good when something you trial works :)
That said i do get cheesed of with that journey down to Cheddar.....
 
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Your S3 is hands down my favourite build and I think I've read this thread 2 or 3 times haha! Massively jealous of all your mods! I'm slowing building mine up now for an R-Tech Performance remap (they seem to come highly recommeneded on here and not too far from me) but i'm going to be upgrading the hardware first, small things like DV+, HPFP cam follower, Revo air intake and work my way to the suspension. Nothing massive as I only plan on only going stage 1.

I think our S3's are on roughly the same mileage (mines just hitting 82k)? Do you see any major problems with remapping a car with that kind of mileage without needing to poor money into it? The car seems sound as I've recently had it in VRT Slough for a full service and scan with zero faults. Just wondering if there is anything i need to be weary of now. I know the clutch is possible the first thing to go?...but is that something to worry about at stage 1?

Thanks

P.s. i'm now following your Instagram as VRT posted your S3...I could pick it out anywhere haha :sos:
 
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Now Driving to Cheddar ? , will you be returning via Gloucetser or leicester by any chance lol.
Excellent build mate keep it up very interesting to read how far you can push an S3. :superman:
 
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Thats a result mate, if you were going to have issues they would have shown on a decent drive like that, always good when something you trial works :)
That said i do get cheesed of with that journey down to Cheddar.....
Haha, trip with my girls to the Cheddar gorge has been fun today. Drove the length of the road and can only imagine how much fun this road can be when it's quiet! Walked alot and got some cheese though, so that's nice :)

Your S3 is hands down my favourite build and I think I've read this thread 2 or 3 times haha! Massively jealous of all your mods! I'm slowing building mine up now for an R-Tech Performance remap (they seem to come highly recommeneded on here and not too far from me) but i'm going to be upgrading the hardware first, small things like DV+, HPFP cam follower, Revo air intake and work my way to the suspension. Nothing massive as I only plan on only going stage 1.

I think our S3's are on roughly the same mileage (mines just hitting 82k)? Do you see any major problems with remapping a car with that kind of mileage without needing to poor money into it? The car seems sound as I've recently had it in VRT Slough for a full service and scan with zero faults. Just wondering if there is anything i need to be weary of now. I know the clutch is possible the first thing to go?...but is that something to worry about at stage 1?

Thanks
P.s. i'm now following your Instagram as VRT posted your S3...I could pick it out anywhere haha :sos:
Ha, nice one and thanks for the nice comments - she's definitely a keeper! The mileage means nothing to me - it's all about how it's been looked after... Getting on top of maintenance is key. I've seen plenty 100k+ tuned TFSIs around and many are going strong and at the same time plenty of sub 40k cars that have no end of issues, so as long as you don't have any underlying problems (unlike me :) ), you'll be fine going as far as you want with it.
Definitely agree with your approach on sensible map and focusing on brakes and chassis - they make an excellent base for a fun all-round road car. The only problem is that once you do that, you'll want to go further... Especially if you hang around on this forum :) I also planned to go to about 360bhp and was happy with Stg2+ - a couple of years later, things have escalated a bit haha
Oh, btw James, if you are not far from VRT then you're not far from where I am based... We have a small group of S3 owners from ASN that do occasional countryside drives/meets - ping me a PM if you're interested in joining us at some point.
 
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Owner is a top goon but the car is beyond amazing. Ticks every box, does everything from owning cars to taking a family away.. thanks for all your knowledge but you really have built a weapon.
 
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Now Driving to Cheddar ? , will you be returning via Gloucetser or leicester by any chance lol.
Excellent build mate keep it up very interesting to read how far you can push an S3. :superman:
Thanks fella! I doubt I'll go much further in terms of power to be honest - going any further means an engine forge and that is not something my budget will stretch to for some time unfortunately, plus I really struggle to see the point of any more power for how I use this car at the moment. Especially as she is already starting to pop, bang and burble more than a true sleeper should haha

That's not to say that I won't try to optimise things, so once R-Tech come back to me with a slot for a map tweak session on their dyno, she'll be going to Niki for some further tweaks to get the tune working 100% with the latest set of changes, so might see a few extra ponies out of her :whistle2:
 
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Beware, i am only 25 miles from slough :)
 
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Beware, i am only 25 miles from slough :)

Stay away from him... he is nothing but bad for your bank balance! I haven’t eaten for a year cause of alexi. My boyfriend left me and I’m let with a stage 2+ shed
 
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Stay away from him... he is nothing but bad for your bank balance! I haven’t eaten for a year cause of alexi. My boyfriend left me and I’m let with a stage 2+ shed


Ive developed a new diet of Tesco Value beans and stale bread, which allows me to feed my unhealthy tuning habit. You just need to ease yourself into it to prevent your body from shutting down completely. Not long till your engine is forged haha
 
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Some photos of the old girl in some early morning Cheddar Gorge and Chew Valley Lake surroundings... Been a while since I managed a ridiculously early hoon.
The S3 felt spot-on! So much love for this car!
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Some photos of the old girl in some early morning Cheddar Gorge and Chew Valley Lake surroundings... Been a while since I managed a ridiculously early hoon.
The S3 felt spot-on! So much love for this car!
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I was there a few weeks a go, nice little road up through the gorge and out the other side , loving your build thread, got me thinking about a TTE420 next as I’ve done everything else and want to keep mine a while.

Keep it up


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agree , i did 200 miles last night coming home after dark M11/M25 roads virtually virtually empty and the car is awesome especially the acceleration from motorways speed+ and drop it down to 5th and it takes off.
Only problem i have is a really bad brake wobble through the steering from high speeds. I have tried 3 sets of discs and its definity not that.
I thought i had cured it with the J hooks, i had a wheel bearing replaced at the same time as the j hooks were fitted ,the mechanic said it was running out when clocked. That was 3k miles ago and its been fine but now i am back to square one. the symptoms have always been the same. i can brake hard from 70+ and it wobbles like hell, take it straight back up to high speed and brake again and it might be fine but its definitely worse over distance , it might taker 50 miles to start playing up.? I will book it back in tomorrow.
 
agree , i did 200 miles last night coming home after dark M11/M25 roads virtually virtually empty and the car is awesome especially the acceleration from motorways speed+ and drop it down to 5th and it takes off.
Only problem i have is a really bad brake wobble through the steering from high speeds. I have tried 3 sets of discs and its definity not that.
I thought i had cured it with the J hooks, i had a wheel bearing replaced at the same time as the j hooks were fitted ,the mechanic said it was running out when clocked. That was 3k miles ago and its been fine but now i am back to square one. the symptoms have always been the same. i can brake hard from 70+ and it wobbles like hell, take it straight back up to high speed and brake again and it might be fine but its definitely worse over distance , it might taker 50 miles to start playing up.? I will book it back in tomorrow.
I bet I know what the problem is
 
Please share as @paddy has been on about this for sometime and it would be nice to know what might be a cure :thumbs up:
 
A clue would be nice

Sorry, needed to find the post in which I mentioned this exact scenario... https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threa...-money-pit-project.256146/page-3#post-2727595

Seeing as the expensive bits have been eliminated , I bet it's the hub/disk/wheel mounting surface issue - seems too small to be the problem, but I had the exact thing - even wasted money on buying a new set of disks before I knew better. Interestingly, when I mention this as the possible cause, people just ignore me and keep buying new disks, because the old ones 'warped'.

When I originally bought the car, it had a nasty judder under braking. I incorrectly assumed that this was down to unbalanced wheels. After getting them rebalanced a couple of times things improved slightly at motorway speeds, but brake judder never fully went away and was only getting worse.

Not knowing my options, I bought and installed a new set of brake disks/pads. The issue went away - result! Unfortunately it slowly started to reappear and got worse over time. Thinking that I warped my disks again, after a few road trips and spirited runs, I decided to get he disks skimmed by a local workshop, which came highly recommended. Once done, this fixed the brake judder problem and I was happy, for a while.

Very soon after the disk skim, I had the new BBK installed, but after just two or three thousand miles I started to notice that familiar judder coming back. By this point I was getting rather annoyed at the amount of money this was beginning to cost me as well as the frustration of having a nice car that I did not enjoy driving. After doing a bunch of reading and asking friends for advice, I found Marcus, who runs a place called Disk Skimmers near Cambridge. Top guy and knows his brakes :)

The moment he took one of the front wheels off, he showed me my problem! It turns out that my OEM wheels were refurbished at some point, using powder-coating. It was very good work, but the process also resulted in a very fine layer of coating left on the inside of the wheel which mounts to the disk. This fine layer of powder-coating was enough to cause an imperfect contact between the wheel and the brake disk, which caused the disk to start to deform slightly. We're talking microns here, but this is enough to cause the nasty judder that I came to expect from my car.

The solution was quite simple - light skim of the disks to fix the damage that was caused by the bad contact with the wheel. (This is normally as far as most disk skimming places go and fix the symptom of the problem, but not the cause.) The second part was to sand the mounting surface of the wheel down to get rid of the powder-coating, then a very light filing of the same to make sure that the mounting surface was completely smooth and level and ensure a perfect contact with the disk. The reason that the filing was required is because the alloy of the wheel will actually try to 'mould' around the powder-coating with every heat cycle. Marcus knows his stuff - http://www.discskimmers.com/
 
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Hi Lesh
I do actually remember that post but i very much doubt its my problem. I have had the car from new. the wheels are original, the spacers Anodised, the discs new and the hubs not painted on the mounting surface . I know where you are coming from being in the motorcycle trade i have had loads of PC done and it can be up to 10 thou or 250 microns thick, and it will flake as its more of a skin than an adhered coat like paint.

I have found with my problem its definitely worse with speed. Can be a lot worse with distance but i dont think its disc warp with heat.
the reason i say this is i did prob 20 miles last night down the M11 at very fast speed and never touched the brakes in all that time but then hang on the anchors and it was juddering immediately i touched the peddle and before the brakes were even fully applied. I checked the mileage and the discs have done 4.5k., i also checked old receipts and this is a problem i have had for 34k and started with the original disc,s + their replacements and now the j hooks.
i dont have the facilities to spin the discs up on the car so i will book it in and get them to clock the run out on the discs then the hubs.
Sorry ti hijack you thread, i will shut up :)
 
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Hi Lesh
I do actually remember that post but i very much doubt its my problem. I have had the car from new. the wheels are original, the spacers Anodised, the discs new and the hubs not painted on the mounting surface . I know where you are coming from being in the motorcycle trade i have had loads of PC done and it can be up to 10 thou or 250 microns thick, and it will flake as its more of a skin than an adhered coat like paint.

I have found with my problem its definitely worse with speed. Can be a lot worse with distance but i dont think its disc warp with heat.
the reason i say this is i did prob 20 miles last night down the M11 at very fast speed and never touched the brakes in all that time but then hang on the anchors and it was juddering immediately i touched the peddle and before the brakes were even fully applied. I checked the mileage and the discs have done 4.5k., i also checked old receipts and this is a problem i have had for 34k and started with the original disc,s + their replacements and now the j hooks.
i dont have the facilities to spin the discs up on the car so i will book it in and get them to clock the run out on the discs then the hubs.
Sorry ti hijack you thread, i will shut up :)

Hm, OK, I thought it sounded very similar to my issue... Have you tried running it without spacers to see if the problem re-appears? I had 'quality' spacers on a previous S3 many years ago and had serious issues with them. Worth trying to eliminate them.

Failing everything else, give Marcus a shout - that guy knows brakes better than anyone I know and he might be able to help you.
 
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Sorry, needed to find the post in which I mentioned this exact scenario... https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threa...-money-pit-project.256146/page-3#post-2727595

Seeing as the expensive bits have been eliminated , I bet it's the hub/disk/wheel mounting surface issue - seems too small to be the problem, but I had the exact thing - even wasted money on buying a new set of disks before I knew better. Interestingly, when I mention this as the possible cause, people just ignore me and keep buying new disks, because the old ones 'warped'.
Just a thought - why would it be fine for 3k miles then start to wobble? Sure if it was a surface issue it would be there straight away?
 
Haha, trip with my girls to the Cheddar gorge has been fun today. Drove the length of the road and can only imagine how much fun this road can be when it's quiet! Walked alot and got some cheese though, so that's nice :)


Ha, nice one and thanks for the nice comments - she's definitely a keeper! The mileage means nothing to me - it's all about how it's been looked after... Getting on top of maintenance is key. I've seen plenty 100k+ tuned TFSIs around and many are going strong and at the same time plenty of sub 40k cars that have no end of issues, so as long as you don't have any underlying problems (unlike me :) ), you'll be fine going as far as you want with it.
Definitely agree with your approach on sensible map and focusing on brakes and chassis - they make an excellent base for a fun all-round road car. The only problem is that once you do that, you'll want to go further... Especially if you hang around on this forum :) I also planned to go to about 360bhp and was happy with Stg2+ - a couple of years later, things have escalated a bit haha
Oh, btw James, if you are not far from VRT then you're not far from where I am based... We have a small group of S3 owners from ASN that do occasional countryside drives/meets - ping me a PM if you're interested in joining us at some point.


That's a valid point, I've often gone through the 8V forum and loads of cars with sub 20k on the clock with endless problems. I'll probably still get the car structurally check out by VRT or R-Tech themselves before the map just to be safe...maybe a bit much but it'll help me sleep at night haha. The cars got a full service history with the only major things to fail being a shock absorber and the haldex (on 2 occasions :cry:)...but when replaced it's back to 100%. So i'm quietly confident the car is sound.
I plan on replacing/upgrading the HPFP cam follower/Diverter Valve/PCV Breather Valve before the map as these seem to come recommended and are on the cheap side. I think i'll look at the suspension & brakes after the map. See how the stock fair with a stage 1. Just hoping the clutch holds out!

Do you have any recommended places for 4 wheel alignment? I need to get mine checked and there seems to be a fair few that have the Hunter equipment just not sure about the garage themselves.

Yeah that sounds awesome mate. I'll PM you about it :thumbs up: Mine won't even be in your league but i'm a massive Audi fan so it's a win win for me.
 
Just a thought - why would it be fine for 3k miles then start to wobble? Sure if it was a surface issue it would be there straight away?
The issue is not the fact that the surface is uneven, but that the contamination between the disk and wheel will make the disk deform around it... Marcus explained it better to me, but the idea is that rust or remnants of paint will affect the way metal expands and contracts in affected areas. The end result is that the disk will end up with a different runoff/offset from hub center in different places with each heat cycle. The more heat cycles it goes through, the more the difference and this causes the brake judder to get progressively worse. I didn't think this would be the cause for judder, but he is a full-on engineer and spent a big part of his life in metal alloy engineering said that even microns of contaminants can have an effect.
He made a business out of permanently resolving brake judder issues for high end dealerships like Audi and Mercedes, among others, to sort out the brake issues on models with large disk rotors, which are more susceptible to this issue simply due to larger disk size. Before that, the same services would spend a fortune on replacing disks and pads under warranty, in many cases for the same clients, every 4-8k miles.
 
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Thanks Lesh
I don't disagree with a word you say and thanks for you input. I will book it in today and get my guys to check disc run out as well as hub face run out
I just have a nagging feeling that as changing one front wheel bearing fixed it for 3k miles the other bearing might now have gone given they are both the same age and mileage.

If it comes to it then Cambridge it is :)
 
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Do you have any recommended places for 4 wheel alignment? I need to get mine checked and there seems to be a fair few that have the Hunter equipment just not sure about the garage themselves.

Yeah that sounds awesome mate. I'll PM you about it :thumbs up: Mine won't even be in your league but i'm a massive Audi fan so it's a win win for me.

I take my S to Black Boots at least once a year. They specialise in tyres and suspension setups. Not the cheapest around or the closest, but I've learned long ago that chasing cheapest price will almost always end up in issues.

Blackboots Tyres Chesham
Chess Business Park Unit 33, Moor Rd, Chesham HP5 1SD
01494 797820

https://goo.gl/maps/vn7BZKqgCXq

While we joke about power or mods, it's all about shared passion for the car and driving, so you'll fit in nicely mate. All about banter, enjoyment of our cars and sharing of experiences.
 
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Thanks Lesh
I don't disagree with a word you say and thanks for you input. I will book it in today and get my guys to check disc run out as well as hub face run out
I just have a nagging feeling that as changing one front wheel bearing fixed it for 3k miles the other bearing might now have gone given they are both the same age and mileage.

If it comes to it then Cambridge it is :)
I hope you get it resolved Paddy... I know all too well the frustration with this kind of thing. At one point I was ready to throw in the towel as I couldn't enjoy the car for what it was meant to be and it was getting way too expensive to keep replacing expensive bits of metal. If anything, before replacing more stuff, have a chat to Marcus and maybe visit him as he might be able to narrow it down for you, if not solve it completely.
 
@leshkin , did you ever get your car a Walnut clean before any your remaps, just i got mine done by a Sponsor on here and once he tuned the car i have been told its pushing in excess off 300bhp and all i have put in car Gfb, Itg, Bcs, new sparks n coils.
Would you recommend a dyno road for next map Stage
 
I take my S to Black Boots at least once a year. They specialise in tyres and suspension setups. Not the cheapest around or the closest, but I've learned long ago that chasing cheapest price will almost always end up in issues.

Blackboots Tyres Chesham
Chess Business Park Unit 33, Moor Rd, Chesham HP5 1SD
01494 797820

https://goo.gl/maps/vn7BZKqgCXq

While we joke about power or mods, it's all about shared passion for the car and driving, so you'll fit in nicely mate. All about banter, enjoyment of our cars and sharing of experiences.


Absolutely spot on mate, thanks! I'm based just below Heathrow so they are only about 35mins from me so I'll definitely give them a look.

Yeah that's true, haven't really been around another S3 since i was test driving them about 4 years ago before i got mine. So will be interesting to see what others are like and perform. No doubt it'll be devastating for my wallet as I know i'll want to upgrade the suspension as soon as I get in yours or one of the other guys :tearsofjoy: I've always thought the suspension could be better and my girlfriends hates riding in mine because its too hard for her...but she does get a brand new 4 series every 6 months, so I think shes become a custom to that kind of ride comfort. It normal gets lost on me because of the enjoyment I get from driving it. Not to mention the exhaust, although the power valve system is a little out of my price range for now.
 
The issue is not the fact that the surface is uneven, but that the contamination between the disk and wheel will make the disk deform around it... Marcus explained it better to me, but the idea is that rust or remnants of paint will affect the way metal expands and contracts in affected areas. The end result is that the disk will end up with a different runoff/offset from hub center in different places with each heat cycle. The more heat cycles it goes through, the more the difference and this causes the brake judder to get progressively worse. I didn't think this would be the cause for judder, but he is a full-on engineer and spent a big part of his life in metal alloy engineering said that even microns of contaminants can have an effect.
He made a business out of permanently resolving brake judder issues for high end dealerships like Audi and Mercedes, among others, to sort out the brake issues on models with large disk rotors, which are more susceptible to this issue simply due to larger disk size. Before that, the same services would spend a fortune on replacing disks and pads under warranty, in many cases for the same clients, every 4-8k miles.
I don't doubt in his experience and knowledge. It's great to have someone with knowledge that takes his time to explain how things work.

I have ttrs brakes and had them skimmed few times. They rust badly and I've noticed that sometimes pads get stuck to the disk and leave small layer of particles and also think that brake dust sticks on the inner side where dust shield is in venting holes so probably it makes discs unbalanced. It might be placebo but after giving it few hard stops in a row it seems to be better.
 
@leshkin , did you ever get your car a Walnut clean before any your remaps, just i got mine done by a Sponsor on here and once he tuned the car i have been told its pushing in excess off 300bhp and all i have put in car Gfb, Itg, Bcs, new sparks n coils.
Would you recommend a dyno road for next map Stage
I cleaned the inlet ports/valves myself a while back, before RTech map went in as I had the manifold off to fit the RFD kit anyway. I think it depends on the state of individual car as each one will be different. Either way, media blasting is the best method for cleaning that area as the carbon clean process using hydrogen will only go so far.
As far as power levels go, I don't trust anyone that says it is delivering a certain amount of power unless it's been measured properly on the dyno. There are ways to guess the power based on maf readings, but nothing will be as precise as an actual dyno that has been properly calibrated. With that in mind, I'd definitely recommend getting the before, during and after dyno readings for a map to be sure that you're getting what you're paying for. Otherwise people can claim that they achieved X, but in reality you're not getting even close to that. If all you are after is drivability improvements, then a road tune might be fine... all depends on what you're after I guess.
 
I cleaned the inlet ports/valves myself a while back, before RTech map went in as I had the manifold off to fit the RFD kit anyway. I think it depends on the state of individual car as each one will be different. Either way, media blasting is the best method for cleaning that area as the carbon clean process using hydrogen will only go so far.
As far as power levels go, I don't trust anyone that says it is delivering a certain amount of power unless it's been measured properly on the dyno. There are ways to guess the power based on maf readings, but nothing will be as precise as an actual dyno that has been properly calibrated. With that in mind, I'd definitely recommend getting the before, during and after dyno readings for a map to be sure that you're getting what you're paying for. Otherwise people can claim that they achieved X, but in reality you're not getting even close to that. If all you are after is drivability improvements, then a road tune might be fine... all depends on what you're after I guess.
Cheers for the Advice , so dyno road next time then , will need to look up this media clean , did the Walnut blast due to it being 9yr old car and had done 80,000 miles so guessing it hadn't had one done b4 i got it .
 
I don't doubt in his experience and knowledge. It's great to have someone with knowledge that takes his time to explain how things work.

I have ttrs brakes and had them skimmed few times. They rust badly and I've noticed that sometimes pads get stuck to the disk and leave small layer of particles and also think that brake dust sticks on the inner side where dust shield is in venting holes so probably it makes discs unbalanced. It might be placebo but after giving it few hard stops in a row it seems to be better.

Ah yes, there are multiple reasons that can cause judder - pad material transfer can also cause issues and giving the brakes a good kicking, followed by a good cool-down run can help with that if it's not too severe. To help avoid this, I try not make sure that I let them cool down before stopping after a good run and obviously not use the handbrake after the same.
 
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Going back to your earlier post given the cost of a dyno run i cant see any point in just tuning and guessing blind. You could have a major problem and not know or even be making it worse.
I had APR stg2+, all the right hardware but a std IC and got 351bhp. The dyno highlighted exactly where the problem was and the power loss was relative to top end flow. We changed the IC to a wagner which flows 50% more volume than std and put the car back on the Dyno straight away and got 30 BHP more, almost certain this was a flow issue not a temp issue however the guy at QST who did the work thinks it was temp.
Bottom line is without the dyno runs we wouldn't have really known there was a problem or that we had cured it. Essential bit of kit.
 
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